Food & Wine French Life Paris: Food & Wine French Life Paris
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Food, Wine and Giving Thanks
We’re all foodies today. No matter how or where or what is served up, Thanksgiving marks the one day out of the year when we Americans collectively reflect on what we are grateful for and then feast on hearty helpings of mashed potatoes, turkey with cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. When I lived in France, I can remember it being said that Thanksgiving was the day when Americans ate the best, even better than the French. Although somewhat off-handed, that was quite the compliment, especially considering the chauvinistic attitude often exhibited in France toward fine cuisine.
Thankfully we have super foodies out there blasting the blogosphere on a regular basis with food and wine information that tantalizes our taste buds year-round. I invited two of them, Clotilde Dusoulier and Ronald Holden, to be guests on Travel Fun this week for a Food and Wine special. Both live with one fork (or should I say, one glass raised?) in France and America, a not-so insignificant fact that in my opinion lends more credo to their gastronomic perspectives.
Paris-based food writer, Clotilde Dusoulier, took center stage first, largely chatting about her blog, ChocolateandZucchini.com, that she founded five years ago. (It started off in English, but after much pressure from her countrymen, she finally began to post a French version a year and a half ago.) “I wanted to create a space where I could document food adventures in general,” she said. A cornucopia of recipes are posted on her site, most of which come with a story. Not surprisingly Clotilde cooks a lot with vegetables and loves to bake (I’m sure with copious amounts of chocolate). Veggies, however, dominated our interview, talk that made me yearn for the glorious produce of France where virtually everything you buy tastes twice as flavorful as in the U.S. “I find myself designing meals around the vegetable part and then adding protein. I get inspired by the season and the offerings at the green market,” Clotilde said. If only I could beam myself into France on occasion to do my marketing!
Clotilde planned to join some American friends in Paris today for a Thanksgiving potluck. When she told me this I didn’t comment on it, but in the eleven years I lived in France I neither attended nor hosted a potluck—a very American tradition that’s terribly un-French. Perhaps the country is becoming even more Americanized than I realized.
The ever-so entertaining Ronald Holden had me practically clinking glasses with him over the airwaves. Ronald, who created Cornichon.org, is a terrific food and wine enthusiast, however, we focused mainly on wine in our segment. (I was fortunate though to extract from him his special cabbage side dish recipe—a Thanksgiving tradition in his family—which I’ve posted below.)
This being the season of Beaujolais Nouveau, we began our interview chatting about the first release of the new year from Burgundy, a fun French institution of sorts that Ronald recommends you drink with turkey or other fowl. “It’s a wine that ferments very quickly, so everything explodes with flavor. You have to drink it within the first few months,” he said. “It’s a party.”
I suppose a lot of wine appreciation is about how you approach the nectar. Ronald feels it’s unfortunate that most Americans are still drinking “Coca Cola flavors” such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. “The more adventuresome might go for Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Syrah or Sauvignon Blanc,” Ronald said. Instead he advocates selecting more international flavors such as wines from the regions of Emilio Romagna in northern Italy, Provence in southern France and Navarra in Spain. For Provence, Ronald enjoys the various Côtes de Provence that come in a palette of pale pink shades. “They’re wonderfully refreshing,” he said. “They’re a far cry from the more heady rosés that I’d refer to as wines for tanning. People would drink a lot of those wines, fall down in the sand and get sunburned.”
We wrapped up our interview with talk of other more affordable, super tasty wines. “I’d recommend the wines of the southern Rhône and the Languedoc,” Ronald said, forever true to his apparent predilection toward French libations. And what does he buy in his native Seattle? “Right now I have a bottle of Red Beret on the kitchen counter. It cost under $10. and it’s perfectly acceptable. I also recommend Steakhouse Red and Fishhouse White, both from Washington state.”
Ronald is also the Global Gourmet for Examiner.com and the Director of Wine Tours for The International Kitchen.
I wish both Clotilde and Ronald and all you other foodies (as well as everyone else!) a Happy Thanksgiving. May the spirit of the holiday and its sweet and savory flavors remain with you throughout the year.
Ronald’s Cabbage
A side dish, not a salad. Make several days ahead.
Chop 1 medium onion, sauté in olive oil (or, if doing kosher-style, in goose fat). Before the onion browns, add 1 big head red cabbage, chopped & rinsed. Don’t bother draining.
Once cabbage begins to wilt, add 1 cup red wine and 1/2 red wine vinegar, 1 tsp salt, a bay leaf, and, if desired, a ham hock and a peeled & chopped apple or pear. Cover & simmer gently up to 2 hours, allow to cool.
Next day: stir in 1 cup red currant jelly. Reheat to dissolve the jelly. Taste & adjust seasonings. You’re looking for a sweet-sour flavor.
Allow to cool again. Reheat before serving.
Book Picks
“Chocolate and Zucchini,” by Clotilde Dusoulier
“Clotilde’s Edible Adventures in Paris,” also by Clotilde
Ronald’s Book Picks
“He Said Beer, She Said Wine,” by Sam Calagione and Marnie Old
“Wine Politics,” by Tyler Colman
“I’ll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World’s Most Popular Wine,” by Rudolph Chelminski. This tells the story of Georges Duboeuf, the greatest marketer of French wine.
Clarins, Cassandra and Me
I think we’ve all been expanding upon certain rituals lately, those little things we do on a regular basis that help us to cope with stress. Some people might be having an extra wine at their local gathering spot, others extend their workouts an additional fifteen minutes and yet others are perhaps seeking solace in food. For me, I’ve become a bit obsessed with aromatherapy. My little apartment seems to be transformed daily into a mini spa in which soothing scents swirl, easing my anxieties—big and small—every hour of the day.
Essential oils, such as lavender and sandalwood, have been my godsend at bedtime for a number of months. But ever since the economy plunged in September, I dove headfirst into a number of potions and lotions that I knew would provide some sort of redolent release. Clarins Huile Tonic, or Body Treatment Firming and Toning Oil, quickly became my favorite and now I pretty much only have to open the bottle and give it a sniff to achieve a greater sense of serenity.
Apparently this highly aromatic oil, composed of geranium, hazelnut, rosemary, sage, peppermint and rosewood extracts, is known to be particularly effective during “that time of the month” when virtually all women feel the need for more slimming and relaxation. It has been nearly sixty days now and I’m still turning to this wondrous tonic on a daily basis. Maybe all this woeful news left me feeling episodically distressed and bloated, but I’ve found my cure in Huile Tonic. (Totally contrary to the instructions, however, I put it on my damp skin as soon as I leave the shower, breathing the aroma-therapeutic qualities of the oil deeply in many times over within the steamy space of my bathroom.)
This daily ritual, of course, prompted me to think more about Clarins, a company I first discovered in Paris in the early eighties. As with most other people—including men and women—it was the fragrance of the products that drew me in. As early as 1954, long before aromatherapy became a buzzword, Jacques Courtin-Clarins was creating skin care products with scents that completely enhanced your whole state of well-being. And as I recently re-discovered, the plants and essential oils that make up these predominantly plant-based products promote external and internal healing in sometimes surprising ways.
I couldn’t think of Clarins without thinking of my friend, Cassandra Moonen, the International Public Relations Manager of this world-renowned big name in beauty. We only met in person a handful of times, but each time I was greatly impressed by her elegance and glow. I think each woman has a collection of females they truly admire and Cassandra figures among those on my short list. She’s actually Dutch-born, but to me, she embodies the total look and feel of this leading French company. She’s also single and as I’ve said to her before, it’s too bad there are so many miles between us because I’m sure we’d enjoy spending lots of time together. All these aromas and musings prompted me to put a few questions to Cassandra in order to feel more connected with her and my beloved Paris.
M.C.: Are you still wearing Stella Cadente, the French label you introduced me to a few years ago?
C.M.: Yes, but not every day. I love wearing this feminine and colorful collection that is not related to fashion trends but corresponds to my personality. I feel really good in the nice fabrics and I always choose a cut that enhances my natural shapes. The truth is that I will always get compliments when I wear a piece of Stella Cadente, even if I mix with other more trendy or classic pieces (of other brands).
M.C.: If so, what’s her fall look?
C.M.: Stella Cadente has her own style that corresponds to the girl inside a woman with a touch of Rock & Glam.
M.C.: Anything new with the fragrance Miss Me, the one Clarins created for Stella Cadente?
C.M.: No further development for this Parisian “niche” brand this year, but you can see the lovely and poetic cosmetic products on her Web site.
M.C: What other fashions and/or fashion accessories are big in Paris this fall/winter? What’s the overall look?
C.M.: Leggings are back with nice fluid, feminine tops, short cuts, slim fit jeans and the trendy color of the season is violet. For the winter season it will be Chic and Glam with silver, gold or black accessories! We have a very nice make up bag for the Holiday season at Clarins a must-have for the season to be the IT girl!
M.C: What are your favorite Clarins products of the moment and why?
C.M: My favorite Clarins product for my face at the moment is Total Double Serum, the most complete Cosmetic product to fight against aging, ideal when the season changes to offer my skin all it needs. It’s like a multivitamin for my skin to stay healthy and young. For my body, I recommend Clarins Aromatic Relaxing Body Polisher, to exfoliate my skin very gently offering aromatic and well being benefits immediate to my skin (once a week) and the second product is the Toning Body Treatment Oil, a hundred-percent natural cosmetic product to firm and tone my body from head to toe every morning after my shower; it just needs to be rinsed off with cold to warm water. No need to apply other products after and you’ll find immediate results. It’s quick and easy and I love it. I can add, of course, many other products according to the area I would like to improve (the bust, my legs and hips..).
M.C.: What Clarins products are favorites among American women?
C.M.: Our anti-aging products (Extra-Firming and Super Restorative lines), our sun care products, our self tanning range, Instant Beauty Flash Balm, and in Make Up, our big hit is Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch.
M.C.: What Clarins products are favorites among French women?
C.M.: Our anti-aging products (Extra-Firming and Super Restorative lines), our sun care products, Eau Dynamisante, Tonic Oil, Total Body Lift and all our body products, Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch and our foundations.
More of My Favorite Clarins Products
Cassandra mentioned the Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch above, a product I discovered a number of years ago and was completely amazed by how beautifully it evens out your skin with a pink-y glow. Clarins recently came out with the Instant Smooth Perfecting Touch foundation (that she also cited above) and it is truly magical. I’m not a fan of foundation, but applying this base to your skin is like smoothing your face with a creamy satin mousse. Truly a must! I’m also in love with Paramour, a rather heady fragrance, perfect for amorous winter evenings wrapped in velvet and cashmere. Unfortunately I’m out of that now, but its scent still lingers in my mind. My current fragrance is Chanel’s Chance (also means luck in French) which is perhaps more suited for these times. And I suppose I can always dabble a little Huile Tonic behind my ears.
Be sure to check out www.clarins.com; their Beauty Advice in particular is worth the visit.
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Getting Ready for Ski Season: Part Two
I grumbled as I pushed past cartons stacked as high as the ceiling to access the last of the plastic containers filled with my winter clothes. Now what the heck am I still doing with all this? I thought. I eyed one box in particular marked “silver punch bowl, serving trays and flower holders.” These grand accoutrements—along with my super fine porcelain demi-tasse cups and flouncy dining room chair covers—bore little resemblance to my current life. I should sell these and the odd pieces of furniture that are also blocking my path on eBay. Especially now that times are so tough. I eyeballed them alluringly, briefly contemplating opening a box or two to remove a few cherished items such as my silver candlesticks and fancy candy dishes. What’s the point? I knew I couldn’t shoehorn another thing into my little apartment. Instead I just grabbed my skis and boots (alpine and nordic) and snowshoes and closed the door on this storage area filled largely with remnants of my past life.
And in doing so, I entered my second phase of readying myself for ski season. Thank goodness this changing out of closets and gear only takes place twice a year. Back home I shuffled my affairs about, grateful that mountain living required me to keep a sizable collection of hats, mittens and winter jackets in my closets year-round since even in June the thermometer can easily dip to freezing on especially clear nights. I carefully counted out my ski socks, making sure that I had enough to cover me for at least eight days, knowing full well that once the mountain gets busy I wouldn’t want to be forced to do laundry in the evening to assure myself nice clean socks. (As a rookie ski instructor, I made the mistake of thinking I could get two days out of a pair of socks by draping them in my locker every other night. That was a mindless mistake that created an unspeakable issue I never imagined I was capable of contracting!)
Next stop to the ski shop. Paragon on main street is my favorite. I have bought all of my gear from them and they have been super efficient about keeping my skis in good shape. I dropped them off for a tune and knew that they’d grind them on their state-of-the-art tuner and then wax them so that my skis would be prepped to glide and perform at their optimal level. “Ski tuning is not just for racers,” Peter, the store manager tells me. “You have to take care of them, get rid of the scratches, gouges and oxidation so they can better accept the wax and provide you with a superior ski experience. We’ll make sure your edges are sharpened, too, my sweet Bessie.” (Peter and I have quite the history together, but now is not the time to stray from my storyline.)
I lingered a bit, looking longingly over their newly-arrived collection of Icebreaker wool sweaters, super thin jerseys from New Zealand that are so soft you can wear them directly against your skin. You’re, in fact, encouraged to do just that since their wicking ability will keep you warm and dry throughout big efforts and great temperature fluctuations. I pawed at a candy pink-colored model that exuded all the freshness of rosy cheeks just in from the cold.
Out on the street, activity had hit a fever pitch. Deliveries were being made seemingly to all the ski shops in town. Vans and trucks occupied the center section of Colorado Avenue, a street built wide enough so that oxen and a cart could do a U turn with ease. A load of premium skis bearing the names of K2, Nordica, Salomon, Black Diamond and Volkl were being hauled into Paragon as I was saying goodbye. I was glad that my K2 Apaches (actually men’s skis!) still likely had some life in them since I didn’t think I had skied on them for over 200 hours. And I knew after the tune I would feel like they were brand new, even if they might not have the bounce they once provided.
My boots, however, were a different story. I trotted them off to Dr. Bob Gleason at Bootdoctors, another terrific Telluride ski and snowboard shop that also specializes in top-of-the-line gear and fashions. Located in Mountain Village, Bootdoctors is a ski instructor favorite, due partly to its proximity to the base of the mountain and our ski school headquarters. Not surprisingly, I encountered two top ski instructors as soon as I walked in the door: Dave Berry was eyeing the sidecuts on the skis and Richard Thorpe was trying out his new boots.
“When do you know you need new boots?” I asked Richard.
“Basically when your feet tell you. If you’ve skied more than 250 days in them, they’re old boots.”
I sheepishly looked down at mine that I had deposited onto the bench.
“Yep, they’ve come a long way,” said Bob, an expert in the boot-fitting world who first started focusing on helping people feel good in boots in the late seventies. “Those boots look pretty worn.”
I mentally calculated that I must have had hundreds and hundreds of skier days in my boots in the five years I skied in them. “Well they still feel pretty good to me,” I responded almost defensively, knowing full well that a new pair of boots would set me back an average paycheck. “Plus you punched them out last year to accommodate my bunion.” (Such gnarly disfigurements are pretty common in ski instructor world since we spend an average of eight hours a day in these confining clodhoppers for as many as twenty days in a row.)
“If you have a bunion, it’s probably because your liner is breaking down,” Bob said.
This remark prompted me to sit down and listen intently to the discourse carried out by Richard and Bob about the importance of having a boot that provides a stable, supportive device for your foot. As a ski instructor, I know very well to what extent you use your feet—even those little pinky toes—to turn. I know how important it is to have quality boots with custom footbeds that fit snug enough for every micro movement of my foot to pass through my boots to my skis and onto the snow.
“What about the breaking in part?” I asked, now fully convinced I needed new boots but half attempting to put off such a purchase.
“Nowadays we have heat moldable liners to break in the boots. We sculpt them so that you don’t have to go through the pain and trouble of breaking them in yourself.”
I remembered many fall days growing up when my dad would stand in front of a New York Giants’ football game in our living room, creaking and crunching in his ski boots in preparation for his upcoming ski season. The ski industry had come a long way since then and there’s no doubt that the technology applied to the gear translates into far better skiing and riding.
I laid in bed that night anticipating the upcoming season with all the excitement of a kid on Christmas Eve. I could hear the din of the snowmakers out on the hill, the lovely white noise that would lull me to sleep. Soon I’d be listening to the roar of the snowcats. The mountain was readying itself for winter fun.
I mentally ticked off what remained to be done. It occurred to me that I had to make the hour-and-a-half drive back out to my storage area to recharge it with my cargo of last season’s clothes. Then I’ll pick up a few boxes of Christmas decorations, I thought. And maybe even a fancy candy dish, too.
Paragon, 970-728-4525, www.paragontelluride.com
Bootdoctors, 800-592-6883, www.bootdoctors-telluride.com
Note that both Paragon and Bootdoctors offer a wide range of rental equipment and some rental clothing as well. If you mention Bonjour Telluride to Paragon, you will receive a 10% discount on purchases and rentals.
P.S. Ski conditioning class ended last Wednesday and I did manage to build up to the two-minute intervals (well, almost). I had eased up on my complaining, too.
Seizing the World
“It’s possible to accomplish a great deal so long as you have passion, simple tools and a group of close friends with enthusiasm for the project,” says local Tellurider Stephen Allen. Stephen and I met in October when he came on Travel Fun for a last-minute radio interview just before heading out on an around-the-world bicycling tour. Such a journey would seem daunting for just about anybody, but Stephen is not your average guy. He’s incredibly motivated and determined not to let life’s hurdles get in his way. He was thrown a real curve ball almost ten years ago in high school when he learned he had epilepsy; not surprisingly, however, it seems that that has forced him to be even more focused on making a difference in the world.
So far Stephen has logged close to 2,000 miles on his bike as he worked his way down from Colorado to New Mexico, across Texas, Oklahoma, Tennessee and as I write this, Mississippi. His goal is to promote active living with epilepsy and to raise money for research. He has been accomplishing much of this by giving presentations in bookstores, bike shops and a variety of other venues along the way. He’s headed to Charleston, South Carolina where he’ll fly out for Europe on December 8th to embark upon the international portion of his expedition. His mom, Susan, informed me that he’s pedaled with a number of different people at various intervals along the way. In all, Stephen thinks his grand tour might last two years. You can learn more about living with epilepsy and Stephen’s travels at Seize the World. Take a moment, too, to read my write up on him and my blurbs on other important organizations and causes on my Giving page.
May the wind always be at your back, Stephen, or at least may the headwinds be manageable!
Book Pick
“The Monkey Wrench Gang,” by Edward Abbey. “My trip will be much cleaner, much more sober, much more organized, much less violent and (hopefully) more sustainable than Edward Abbey’s case, but the underlying dreams are similar,” Stephen wrote to me just before heading out.
Prague: More Eastern European Splendor
Many people do the trifecta in this part of the world: a sybaritic journey that encompasses Budapest, Prague and Vienna. My friends, Denise and Alan, combined their September trip to Budapest with Prague, a sensible decision since prices in Vienna weigh in considerably more.
With only a five-hour drive or a one-hour flight between these two great Eastern European capitals, a visit to both seems like a must, especially if a rich cultural scene and outstanding Old World architecture figure among your requisites of a memorable vacation. Known as the Paris of the north, Prague also begs to be explored by foot, mostly since the majority of the main attractions are located within the city center. With three major opera houses and several other prominent cultural hubs, Prague also boasts a vibrant music scene, although expect to pay a bit more here to attend events than in neighboring Budapest.
According to my extremely well-traveled friend, Denise, this seemed to be the case across the board. She found Prague to be a notch or two up from Budapest—price-wise—although still significantly less than most other major European cities. A dinner for two with wine, for example, rang in about $80. to $100., noticeably more than the same in Budapest.
Czech cuisine, known for its large meat and potatoes emphasis, did not impress Denise nearly as much as the food and wine of Budapest, yet her entire gastronomic experience in Prague was certainly blown off the charts by her meal at Allegro, the only one-star Michelin restaurant in all of Central and Eastern Europe. It came as no surprise that it was housed within the elegant confines of the Four Seasons Hotel Prague, another outstanding property embellished with world-class artwork and situated on the banks of a historic river. As the name indicates, Allegro features an Italian cuisine, one that is especially refined and served in a stunning setting, itself worthy of five stars.
It seems as though the Four Seasons name is still more accessible in Eastern Europe than in other parts of the world. Eastern Europe has not yet adopted the euro, so one can only imagine how long it will stay that way. It might be a good time to start planning a trip to this part of the world soon. With travel deals the way they are now, you might even be able to swing Vienna.
Four Seasons Hotel Prague, 420-221-427-000; www.fourseasons.com/prague
For more Money Saving Travel Tips, go to my Tips page.
Art & Culture Food & Wine Hotels Restaurants Spas Travel: Art & Culture Food & Wine Hotels Restaurants Spas Travel
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Budapest: For Lovers Young and Not-So Young
People often tell me they live vicariously through me. Generally they’re referring to my travel adventures and stories rather than the more tedious aspects of my single woman’s life, I imagine. (Although my romantic encounters can, I suppose, be sometimes viewed as out of the ordinary!) I rarely envy other peoples’ travels, mostly because I often see them as uniquely their own. But recently I arranged for my friend, Denise, and her husband, Alan, to go on a trip where I imagined myself every step of the way. It turned out to be a most romantic journey and I’m sure part of me not only coveted her travels but I also imagined myself experiencing this magical city—that always intrigued me—with my own special someone. Oh well, thankfully my life isn’t over yet!
The Hungarian capital of Budapest was her chosen destination, a selection made partly because of her husband’s Hungarian ancestry. Denise and Alan divided one week between Budapest and Prague; the another was passed in the Hungarian countryside where they found it to be quite easy to explore by car. As in France and other European countries, good signage in Hungary is more the norm than the exception.
Largely considered one of the most beautiful cities of Europe, Budapest is most typified by the Danube, the river made known probably first as a frontier of the Roman Empire and more recently (in 1867!) by a Viennese waltz that will forever evoke merriment and optimism. Classified as World Heritage sites, the two banks of the Danube, Buda and Pest, are punctuated by many great buildings and monuments, some of which house hotels that overlook the legendary blue swath of the Danube.
The Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace is one such establishment and I can only fantasize how it would be to sit riverside with my lover and be torn between staring into his eyes or the depths of the Danube. Aside from its supreme location and usual Four Seasons distinctions, this fine property is also known for its exciting collection of contemporary artwork. Denise and Alan stayed here. I did not. I can only dream, but they told me it was extraordinary.
And today it’s comparatively affordable. “The whole country is a bargain,” Denise says of this Eastern European land. And she informed me of that before the world economic downturn. I’m sure you can find even more deals there today. And now is a wonderful time to begin planning a trip to Budapest for the spring, a lovely season for visiting most of Europe. Know that a meal in Budapest for two in a nice restaurant including wine runs about $50. to $60.
While in Budapest, Denise and Alan experienced a wine festival where they found Hungarian wine to be a delicious, well-kept secret, attended classical music concerts, many of which were held for free in churches and other landmark sites, traveled on trolleys, visited countless places of worship, including the second largest synagogue in the world, gazed admiringly at flourishing examples of Art Nouveau architecture, feasted on distinctive cuisine such as mouthwatering strudel, foie gras and paprika-charged regional dishes, danced to Hungarian folk music, pondered visiting the renowned thermal bathes but instead opted for private spa treatments at the lovely Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal Budapest, cruised the Danube, basking in the glow of the many illuminated monuments and, of course, walked hand in hand throughout this ancient city.
They have provided me with much to envision and for that and much more I am most grateful.
Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, 36 (1) 268-6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest
Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal Budapest, 36 (1) 479-4000, www.corinthia.com
Budapest Tourist Office, 36 (1) 266-0479, 36 (1) 322-4098 or 36 (1) 488-0475, www.budapestinfo.hu
Other Notable Budapest Hotels
Hotel Intercontinental Budapest, 36 (1) 327-6333, www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/overview/budhb
Kempinski Hotel Corvinus Budapest, 36 (1) 429-3777, www.kempinski-budapest.com
Travel Tip Worth Noting
Denise spent a half day looking to find cash in Budapest. She found ATMs throughout, but virtually all seemed to require a debit card with a pin number. Plus or Cirrus were nowhere to be found. She’s a highly experienced traveler and never encountered this before. It always makes sense to check with your credit card company or bank regarding where or how you might easily find ATMs in the destinations you’re traveling to abroad.
Mariel and Munchies on My Mind
These are indeed challenging times. And to make matters worse, I’m torn between trying to get into good ski shape and satisfying my autumnal urges of snacking on candy and indulging in extra amounts of pasta and bread. It already feels like winter now in Telluride and many of us are fighting the urge to crawl into hibernation like our resident bears.
I feel guilty trampling up the snowy ski run outside my place, forever mindful of the need for the mountain to build up its base. So in between ski conditioning classes, I’ve mostly taken to doing exercises in my living room, in the morning in front of the Today show, before the rush of the day begins. And I’ve been thinking of Mariel every day. Mariel Hemingway that is.
I interviewed this world-renowned celebrity and leading voice for holistic and balanced living on Travel Fun last spring. We chatted a lot about her book, “Mariel Hemingway’s Healthy Living from the Inside Out.” In the introduction to this work she explains how she set about undoing the extremism she’d inherited from her family—the running-with-the-bulls approach to life encoded deeply in the Hemingway DNA. Much of what she talked about resonated greatly with me, particularly her approach to exercise and preparing healthy snacks for travel.
Mariel believes that if you exercise with intention, you can cut the amount of time you do it in half. Mindset and intention seem to be the foundation of much of Mariel’s beliefs. So I pull in my abs and tighten my butt—engaging my thoughts and core as much as I can—as I work through my little morning routine. My desk is just a few steps away, luring me in with an inbox full of e-mails that need to be answered—so my need to cut my exercise time in half swells with each passing minute. Thank you, Mariel, for making it perfectly O.K. for me to do a mini workout.
Miss Hemingway pops into my mind yet again when I think of how she talked about minimizing your intake of “noisy” food such as sweets, caffeine, and alcohol. “These noisy foods disable you to listen to the signals of your own body,” Mariel says. I do half regular/half decaf with my coffee and snack on fruit and nuts (sometimes!) instead of leftover Halloween candy.
Still, I’m conflicted. Thoughts of cognac-infused chocolate truffles, butter ladened with granules of sea salt, creamy pâtés, slabs of smoked bacon, nutty-flavored cheeses, ruby-red wines and many more sweet and savory comestibles occupy my mind, stimulating my taste buds, leaving me yearning for the holiday season when over indulgence is an inevitable part of our lives. (Thank goodness I can attempt to counter its effects with a long string of days on the slopes.) Glorious treats have become more of an obsession of late since I’m working on preparing my annual Holiday Online Shopping Recommendation Mailing. This year will be better than ever for both food and nonfood items, so you must check it out. If you don’t already receive my mailings, you can sign up here.
I have to wrap this up now to run off to do a few errands. Thankfully I’m pondering what healthy munchies I can bring along à la Mariel Hemingway.
Travel Tips from Mariel Hemingway
(Note that most of these apply to your life at home as well.)
-Take the time to prepare foods that will nurture you on your travels. “The food in first class isn’t even that good,” Mariel says. So she delights in bringing her own containers of favorite foods such as salads, fruits, nuts, and her own sugar-free cookies that will soon be available as part of Mariel’s Kitchen.
-Always work in some form of exercise while traveling. “I think walking and travel make the perfect mariage,” Mariel says. And if the weather is inclement, Mariel recommends yoga. Practicing yoga taught Mariel to slow down.
-Silence will help you to better tune into yourself and to achieve calm, even if you’re racing around in a foreign megalopolis. Mariel feels there are many ways to softly fall into your own silence including a short meditation or a long, luxurious bath.
-”I make home when I travel,” Mariel says. So do I, and I hope you do as well. Mariel creates a homey environment by bringing along candles and her yoga mat. “It’s important to have a sacred space that will help you to connect with your inner self,” she adds.
“I find travel to be a booster to health and well-being,” Mariel says.
Mariel’s Basic Tenets
-Find your own balance with food, exercise, silence and home.
-Slow down.
-Breathe.
-Throw out perfectionism.
Be sure to check out Mariel’s Web site and blog at www.marielhemingway.com.
Book Pick
“Healthy Living from the Inside Out: Every Woman’s Guide to Real Beauty, Renewed Energy, and a Radiant Life,” by Mariel Hemingway. It’s excellent for men, too!
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Getting Ready for Ski Season: Part One
I spotted a glimmer of an orange-y object in my path. I stooped down to pick it up and discovered that it was a perfectly intact miniature Reese’s cup, the sort distributed at Halloween. Jackpot! A golden nugget wouldn’t have made me more happy. I gobbled it so fast I almost choked on it. I knew that this little shot of sugar would enable me to forge up the hill—the Galloping Goose ski run to be exact—the trail outside my apartment that I began to hike on a regular basis as soon as the snow melted late last spring. That little peanut butter treat gave me enough of a burst to make it to the bridge on Sundance, always a stretch since that meant I had to power up to a blue run from a double green.
It was far from noon yet I was thinking about what I’d fix myself for lunch. I had already had two breakfasts and a tide of tea and coffee since I dragged myself out of bed at 6:45 a.m. My body felt completely deflated, like a balloon that had been left out days after a party. Still I knew I would somehow reap benefits from all this fatigue.
“There’s much less of a chance of being hurt during the season if you do ski conditioning class,” my good buddy and top ski instructor, Dave Brown, informed me.
I felt grateful I had never had an injury in my five years of ski instructing, but I figured I shouldn’t push my luck, especially now that I’m getting older. So this year I decided to sign up for the five weeks of pre-season conditioning class offered by Telski to their employees at Peak Performance Therapy. (Yes, most people end up here after suffering an injury on the mountain.) Plus I really wanted to get into good shape this year. I was tired of going from 0 to 75 mph in no time since in previous years I’d work some fourteen days in a row at Christmas without having logged many skier days on the mountain leading up to that busy period.
Everyone was good humored the first session. It was like the first day of school when you see your old friends again and all are hopeful about the upcoming year. There were about twenty of us at kick off, most instructors from the Telluride Ski and Snowboard School along with someone from Operations, a ski patrolman and one of the office workers (that I haven’t seen since).
My enthusiasm deteriorated as I made my way through the twenty stations set up to morph us into tiptop ski and snowboard shape. There was the proverbial Vew-Do balance board, something my dad and brothers used to role on in our basement the weeks leading up to ski season. I had never stepped foot on it before. But here I tried, grateful that I could reach out and grab filing cabinets with one hand, the doorway with the other so as not to become permanently maimed when it jerked me from side to side. The Fitter here amused me considerably more, mostly because you were encouraged to use it with ski poles and it was the one piece of equipment in the whole place that most closely replicated the sensation of skiing. For me, each station seemed to require an inordinate amount of figuring out, coordination, balance and stamina.

Telluride Children's Ski and Snowboard School Director Noah Sheedy Coming Off of His Unique Jump/Pirouette Combo---What a Show-Off!
“Why do we have to do so much jumping?” I asked Megan, the physical therapist and our chief drill sergeant.
She offered up some kind of explanation that seemed way beyond my reach, especially since I was huffing and puffing like a raging bull. And perspiring, my God.
I’m now halfway through the ten-session program and I still have not grown accustomed to the wretched smell that systematically breaks out into the workout room ten minutes into our class. Part raw chopped onions, part pickled boiled wool socks, I’m amazed by something so rank emanating from such a clean cut crowd, even with all the doors opened wide to the chilly mountain night. Ski instructors typically don’t smell like this; we work in a cold environment that is so dry in the West that even if a little perspiration is produced, it evaporates into the air just as quickly. The only other time foul smelling could be associated with us is perhaps in the ski school locker room in the evening when the blowers blast full-tilt to dry out our boots. And that is only really nose turning after the warmest days of March.
We were required to move through the stations so quickly that it’s not surprising we worked ourselves up into such a lather. Everyone took a turn on each carefully devised set up which required its own series of maneuvers including sporting nylon booties so you could easily slip and glide on the Reebok slide, doing squats on a balancing board, jumping up at the extension of a squat, jumping back and forth as you worked your way up and down a line of yellow caution tape, jumping over steps, jumping diagonally on a diagram of Xes marked in tape. As much as I loathe lunges, I came to welcome them after all the jumping. I faked my routine on some, especially those that required standing on one foot on a Dyna Disk and tossing or turning a ball. (I’d just push the Dyna Disk away, good balance be damned.) I felt greatly relieved when I arrived at the StairMaster station and could just pump on that for a short while without having to think about what I was doing.
Our drill sergeant prodded us through two rounds of thirty-second intervals the first time. Now we’re up to one-minute intervals and I’m told we’ll max out at two-minute intervals by the last class. The idea of squatting with my back against a wall with a ball firmly squeezed between my thighs for two minutes is particularly daunting.
But I have to confess I cheat. I’m one of the most honest persons on earth, but here I cheat. I also whine terribly, another totally uncharacteristic trait for me. I’m thinking I’m going to have to bake big batches of cookies for the class since they’ve had to listen to so much of my belly aching and moaning and groaning. This is the hardest part of skiing I’ve ever experienced but I’m counting on it making my thighs and core strong so that I can pick through a challenging field of moguls without having to stop on every fifth turn.
I’m hoping it’s going to transform my back end, too. They say your buttocks are the biggest muscle in your body. So I keep looking in the mirror, contorting myself just enough to see if there might be some improvement, if nothing else, as a form of encouragement. Hard to tell. I’m grateful that our ski pants are rather bulky. But there’s always après ski. One thing’s for sure, you don’t see many super slim ski and snowboard instructors. Snow sports tend to build mass and, of course, we need the extra padding to enable us to spend so many long hours outside.
“Fifteen seconds left,” Patty, another physical therapist calls out. Eyes bulge and faces redden to the strained sound of Bruce Springsteen. Thank goodness for Madonna, Sting and ELO and the fact that most of us prefer disco to techno. “Time’s up!” she hollers out, prompting everyone to switch to the next post.
I try to remain focused on what I’m doing, more fearful here that I might break my neck than I ever was on the ski slopes. But my thoughts drift to what I’d be doing in Paris at this time of the evening if I still lived there. It would most certainly be time for l’apéritif. I chuckle to myself knowing that if my French friends could see me in this class they would be both highly surprised and hysterical. And I wonder what my body would look like if I still lived in France, the land of buttery pastries and meals consistently served with copious amounts of mouth-watering bread, cheese and wine. I’d probably be thinner, largely due to the societal pressure of remaining slim and seductive. But I know I wouldn’t be as fit and firm.
“Now why do we jump so much?” I asked Megan yet again in a less-than-cheerful voice.
“Eccentric loading,” she replied. I looked at her quizzically. “Loading the muscles in length phase,” she continued in an attempt to help me to understand. “It works mostly the quads. If you can’t eccentrically load, you can’t concentrically explode.”
I thought about this—or some version there of—the next time I stomped up the ski hill. I felt my thighs burn more so than before since now I felt the resistance of the snow beneath me in addition to the build up of lactic acid that had formed after the previous workout. The trail had been packed by snowmobiles or maybe even a snow cat, but still I trudged along as though barefoot on a soft, sandy beach. Much had turned around within forty-hours. Telluride had been transformed from a barren lunar-like landscape to a glorious winter wonderland. It snowed close to two feet up top. We had elected a new president that offered the whole world good reason to hope for a better future. I was shaping up inside and out for what I sensed was going to be a great season in Telluride. Soon I’d be skiing down the slopes instead of walking on them. And like all well-prepared ski instructors, I’d be sure to have a piece of chocolate or a snack in my pocket, too.
Peak Performance Therapy, 970-728-1888
Thank you to Megan for the pics!






























































