Renting in Paris: A Dream Come True for Many
Ah, Paree!
Ever imagine yourself ducking into a Paris bakery to buy warm, crusty bread and flaky croissants to accompany your morning coffee? Or perhaps you’ve envisioned yourself shopping for cheese, wine, pâté and the freshest produce imaginable at a colorful open-air market on the Left Bank? If so, you’re not alone.
I regularly hear from avid Francophiles, most of whom possess a huge passion for Paris. Many have made it their mission to live like a Parisian for a period of time—that’s to say they have rented apartments in the French capital and have embraced la vie française as if they were a native. Lately though, more and more occasional travelers to France ask me about renting in Paris. It seems as though even people that don’t consider themselves overly passionate about Paris share the fantasy of finding themselves living in a more romantic manner than how they live at home. Staying in your own pied-à-terre is definitely a charming way of experiencing Paris and I sat down and talked about this recently with Glenn Cooper, owner of Rentals in Paris, one of the most reputable companies for renting apartments in Paris.
“It’s a basic dollars and cents equation,” Glenn said. “You get more space and better value with apartment rentals.” And here I thought people were primarily motivated by the whole living-like-a-Parisian dream. Certainly that’s a big part of it, but I was extremely interested to hear what Glenn had to say about the price/quality relationship behind renting in Paris, especially during these challenging times. I couldn’t help conjuring up images of wonderful pique niques (picnics) that one could organize in their Parisian abode.
“But I wouldn’t necessarily recommend renting a place in Paris for the first-time visitor, “ Glenn added. “Especially if they need to be taken by the hand. In that case, it’s better to be in a hotel with a concierge.” Suddenly I had a flash of one visit to Paris I took with my mom. We rented a terrific place right off the rue de Buci. Our most challenging moment came when we had to organize a taxi for an early morning departure. Thankfully I knew that I had to go to find one at a nearby taxi stand or my mother and I would have been left standing in front of our building for ages with the hope of hailing a passing taxi. A first-time visitor might not have known such a thing, so you either have to be very well debriefed or more intrepid than your average hotel guest if your maiden voyage to Paris involves a rental.
Glenn suggests taking an apartment in the heart of Paris, and most of his are indeed centrally located and among the nicest you’ll find. And although a concierge may not be at your beckon call, Glenn does have a very competent team in place that makes sure you’re well received and assisted throughout your stay.
Your fantasy about preparing coq au vin in your own little chez vous in Paris could easily become a reality, perhaps as early as this winter when air fares to Europe typically drop to near-bargain basement levels.
Ready for Dinner in Paris
Rentals in Paris, 516-977-3318, www.rentals-paris.com
San Francisco Elegance
A Cozy Nook at the Huntington Hotel on Nob Hill
Some of my most memorable moments have been created in fine hotels and restaurants. There’s something about sitting in the lap of luxury that makes you never forget the place, the moment or the person with whom you share such an experience. I remember dining at Paris’s famed La Tour d’Argent with my mother and then French husband to celebrate the publication of my first book, “The Chic Shopper’s Guide to Paris,” and staying at The Peninsula in Hong Kong on the occasion of a wild fling (mon dieu!) with a fellow travel writer. These all happened many years ago but in my mind, the details are so vivid it seems as though they happened yesterday. There have been many fabulous hotels and restaurants since and I know I could sit down today and parse the most impressionable moments from each.
My times in Motel 6’s and Super 8’s have escaped me entirely.
Superior Service at the Huntington
This is why people splurge from time to time to sample such fine establishments. They might blow a week’s salary on an amazing long weekend but in the end, they have created a lifetime’s worth of memories. And yes, this is still happening today. Not only do people realize the necessity for marking special occasions such as a birthday, an anniversary or just a romantic weekend away, but the deals on many of the world’s landmark properties are better than ever. So if it comes down to choices, why not consider a lodging or dining extravagance over an addition to your wardrobe or another electronic gadget?
I recently discovered the Huntington Hotel in San Francisco and have added it to my list of most unforgettable hotels. Situated amongst other grand residences in the stately neighborhood of Nob Hill, this elegant establishment has been graciously welcoming discerning travelers for eighty-five years. Its close proximity to Union Square, the center of town, provides it with an ideal location, yet you truly feel away-from-it-all atop Nob Hill, the very place where the railroad barons of the Central Pacific Line chose to establish residence at the latter part of the nineteenth century. Fisherman’s Wharf and Chinatown are also within walking distance, but you might not want to venture far since a lively collection of shops and bistrots have also taken up residence on Nob HIll, just a couple of blocks from The Huntington.
If you do stay here, you might even want to leave the bulk of your sight-seeing for another trip since it’s easy to become ensconced in the grandeur of this superlative hotel. I love its Old World charm which may be best experienced within the cozy confines of its bar area, a wood-paneled enclave, perfect for speaking in hushed tones to the one you love. Yet like most of the world’s long-established luxury hotels, its amenities are completely twenty-first century. Nob Hill Spa at The Huntington Hotel serves as a prime example. This serene space had been conceived with both Elysian pampering and big city de-stressing in mind.
And I assure you, you’re likely not to forget your time spent at this spa, or within the entire Huntington Hotel, as long as you live.
The Huntington Hotel & Nob Hill Spa, 1075 California Street, 415-474-5400, www.huntingtonhotel.com
Nob Hill Spa at Dusk
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Fall in Colorado: A Terrific In-Between Time of Year
Filling in Nicely in Aspen/Snowmass a Couple of Weeks Ago
I wrote glowingly about fall in the Rocky Mountains in Riding the Gondola, a story I posted this time of year last year. Now I’ll tell you about that funny in-between time just after most of the leaves have dropped and before most ski areas open, the period from mid October through Thanksgiving.
The bare aspens now blend into the mountainsides like bristly hairs on a crewcut. Golden cottonwoods along the rivers and russet red grasses and shrubs in the fields and on the slopes now punctuate this autumnal season. Dusted in white, the mountains stand steely grey awaiting the long, steady snowfalls that will soon accumulate. We already had a few, enough to know that winter is ready to barrel in. It’s usually snowy by Halloween in our mountain towns, Thanksgiving for sure.
Now officially off-season, lots of folks in the ski towns take off for a long break before the start of the season. The rest await anxiously the arrival of the big snows. Huge, barrel-shaped snow guns have already been placed strategically across slopes all over the Rockies. The blowing will soon begin and mother nature will be aided in the mission of creating the finest skiing in the West, indisputably the best in the world.
Loveland ski area officially opened a couple of weeks ago; they briefly closed since it had been unseasonably warm but are now open again. (Denver hit record-breaking highs in the eighties over the weekend after having had a snowed-out Rockies game a couple of weeks ago.) A-Basin is open, too, and others will soon follow. I learned today that die-hard skiers have been hiking up to Silverton for some early season back country skiing. Copper Mountain is slated for a November 6 opening. And even if only a few runs are skiable, it’s still a great way to get out and have fun and begin to get in shape for the season. I’ve skied Wolf Creek early November as well at times when the whole mountain has been open, blanketed in deep powder the sort you’d expect in the dead of winter. No wonder they’re known to be the snowiest ski mountain in all of Colorado.
Like Aspen and many other resorts, we’ll open in Telluride at Thanksgiving. Time is sure to fly between now and then and there will be many people caught without their skis waxed or their bodies properly prepared. I began ski conditioning class yesterday and even after just one session, I can tell I have a long way to go before adequately strengthening my core and legs for the slopes. (Boy, am I sore today!) Yet everyone’s talking snow and the countdown has begun to opening day. Ski movies are playing in our small-town cinemas and the excitement is mounting day by day.
Now is the time to score some great bargains on everything skiing. Many of the resorts are still promoting pre-season pass and lift ticket deals (some offers valid until October 30). Terrific lodging specials are also available, especially if you book before November 15. Flush with brand new merchandise, many of the ski and snowboard shops continue to offer discounted prices. In T-ride, the KOTO Ski Swap, a one-day event that’s held annually in mid-November (this year on the 14th), draws crowds from neighboring mountain towns that clamor for new and used ski clothing and gear at killer prices.
In Case You Missed It: Telluride Graces the Cover of October's Ski Magazine
There’s anticipation in the air over this year’s turnout as well. But no one’s holding their breath too long since we know how important ski vacations are to people. They’re a great way for families, friends, guys and girls to get together and although ski holidays might not be totally recession proof, we know that this is where some of the best memories are forged. So it’s unlikely there will be too many breaks with tradition.
As for me, I can hardly wait for the season to begin. I have one more trip to take back east, then I hope to hunker down here in my beloved Colorado. My kitties are already in quasi hibernation mode which tells me that it’s time for me to park it as well. I’m excited about resuming my job as ski instructor in Telluride, the perfect antidote for too many hours at my desk and on the road. It’s also a great way to have and share fun with others.
Now it just has to start snowing.
Telluride Ski Resort Deals, http://tellurideskiresort.com/TellSki/hot-deals.aspx
Aspen/Snowmass Deals, http://www.aspensnowmass.com/travelinfo/package.cfm
Hotels Restaurants Shopping Travel: Hotels Restaurants Shopping The Beach Travel
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East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks
The Outer Banks of North Carolina
Even travel writers need a vacation. Everybody needs a break from their job even if their work is their passion. That’s exactly what I did during my four days and nights on The Outer Banks of North Carolina. I didn’t take a single note. I didn’t scout out the best places of lodging, the most typical restaurants or everyone’s favorite dairy bar. I didn’t come away with a single address, phone number or Web site.
My mind is imbued, however, with myriad images of a place that was once imagined and is now forever known. I had envisioned a certain wildness about this immense slice of land that extends along the coast of North Carolina. (The Outer Banks is actually a long, narrow string of barrier islands some two-hundred miles long.) I found its untamed characteristics in its charging surf and along immense swathes of beaches best accessed by four-wheel drive vehicles with deflated tires. I felt enchanted by the region’s cedar shingled houses on stilts despite the over proliferation of them in a good many areas. Indeed the development of The Outer Banks has not always been kept carefully in check but it’s no wonder since much like on Cape Cod and in certain parts of Maine, the ocean roars for attention here drawing crowds from near and far.
Pick Your Beach
Lovely Cape Hatteras Lighthouse
Yet the beaches are so wide and vast that you can pick your way along the coastline and easily remain within your own little world. I did this often on walks that skirted Cape Hatteras and fringed the surf of Rodanthe, both among the more charming areas on The Outer Banks yet also two of the more remote. At Cape Hatteras I stood in awe in front of its black-and-white peppermint-striped historic lighthouse that has valiantly warned sailors about the treacherous sandbars that extend some fourteen miles out into the ocean for more than one-hundred years. I collected shells and beach glass from both locales as well as others, marveling at the cleanliness of the beaches. (It’s no wonder the coast is so free of debris, organic and otherwise, since not much can survive in this robust surf.)
It is these waves of six to eight feet in height that have made The Outer Banks the surfers’ paradise of the east coast. Like seals bobbing in the water, it’s easy to spot a bunch of surfers out in the line up looking for that adrenalin-filled drop in the next tubing wave. Never before had I paid much attention to this sport that decidedly requires an extremely strong combination of strength, endurance and strategy, perhaps more than in any other physical activity. (I promise you that the fact that I had my eye on Steve, my handsome surfer dude, didn’t skew my impressions of the sport either.)
It was hard to imagine that Steve could love a place more than he loves the mountains. But the surf definitely vies for his attention nearly as much. He was drawn to The Outer Banks some two decades ago for its huge waves that break along this rugged coastline. He has learned to navigate these waves well, paddling out to catch just the right swell, then climbing up onto his board for a seemingly painfully short ride before he begins all over again. (Apparently the rewards are great since he tells me there’s no other sensation like it—in any other sport—when you catch and ride that wall of water.) I would happily stand and watch this process over and over again until I set off for my stroll along the beach, a most agreeable rhythm that we established for ourselves that was repeated many times over during our time on The Outer Banks.
Find the Surfer
My introduction to the beach here came on a red-flagged, no swimming day that made Steve eager to get out and brave the surf. My little stormrider proved fearless amongst the immense waves while I was afraid of going more than ankle deep in my walk along the beach. (One has to be very careful of the undertow!) Finally by the third day, I made an effort to muster up the courage to face the surf head on. It occurred to me that I knew everything there is to know to go down (or at least get down!) a double black diamond ski run, but I didn’t have a clue about how to handle myself in such frightening waves. Steve took my hand and showed me how to dive straight into the surf in order to break through to the other side. What an achievement for me, someone that hasn’t spent much time in such big waves. We bobbed and ducked amidst the swells for another fifteen minutes then headed back onto the beach to rest in the warm sand. We stretched out together and marveled about the might of the ocean.
“You need to respect it much like the mountains,” Steve reminded me.
“Oh don’t worry, I do,” I reassured him. I sighed and just laid there for a while. “Now I feel like I really experienced The Outer Banks,” I remarked. He smiled.
So what if I can’t name the best place for pancakes or fried shrimp. There’s always a next time and by then—after more bouncing up and down in the surf—I’m sure I’ll feel like I will have earned the North Carolina bounty even more .
“The surfing scene on The Outer Banks isn’t about neon wetsuits, cool lingo or flashy stickers. It’s about people that love nature, people that crave the surf,” says Steve Togni, my own surfer man.
Film Pick
“Nights in Rodanthe,” a romantic comedy set on The Outer Banks, starring Richard Gere and Diane Lane. Bravo to Hollywood for having cast two great actors of un certain age for this love story. I walked by this eery-looking house on my walk on the beach.
The House in "Nights in Rodanthe"
Hotels Restaurants Travel: Hotels Restaurants The Beach Travel
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Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Virginia Beach
VB Hotspot: The Sexy SkyBar
I have to admit I’m more of a Saint-Tropez kind of gal, so I felt somewhat wary about the idea of spending time at Virginia Beach, a destination that conjured up images of guys in muscle shirts and girls romping about in wet T-shirt contests on the beach. But it made sense for me to park myself there for a few days until my boyfriend, Steve, came by to pick me up for our trip to the Outer Banks. He had actually lived in VB for a while nearly two decades ago and his curiosity about the evolution of this major resort town encouraged me to check it out.
Both of us ended up being quite impressed by this super beach-y destination.
And who wouldn’t be? The Atlantic is gorgeous here. It stretches out as far as the eye can see and comes crashing in with big tumbling waves. I love the vastness of the ocean but I find it even more interesting when there’s activity on the water and here, at practically the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, there’s plenty to see. Cruise ships, barges, immense freighters and all kinds of pleasure boats pass by at varying distances from the horizon, providing endless hours of entertainment, especially for a landlubber like me.
Neptune's Statue on the Boardwalk
The beach and boardwalk tract the coast for some three miles here. My biggest decisions revolved around whether I’d walk on the expansive sandy beach or meander along the impeccably maintained boardwalk. Now that’s vacation mode. Most of the time I ended up doing a combination of both. The scene at both locales percolated with locals and visitors alike doing all the fun things you do at the beach. And yes, I saw a number of muscle men, but more in the form of super fit guys jogging, walking and roller blading along the boardwalk. Few posers here. This is the real deal since Naval Air Station (NAS) Oceana, our country’s largest naval facility is located in VB and I can assure you that all of these military dudes and dudettes appear more than fit to serve. The locals overall look as taut and tight as most Coloradans. This is a beach community after all.
The tourists seem more concerned with gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and various other eateries along the beach. And VB is their oyster when it comes to choosing their preferred form of temptation. There’s something for every taste and pocketbook and most scintillate with a brightly-colored decor that offers outstanding views of the beach.
VB Ocean Beach Club Penthouse
Far from a tired old beach town, Virginia Beach pops and bubbles with beautiful places of lodging as well. The Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club is one such place and I felt so content here that it was hard to tear myself away from the sunny interior of my eighth floor abode that plunged over the ocean. The crash of the waves on the beach lulled me to sleep and I snatched every possible moment to sit on my balcony high above the activity below. Morning meant gazing down at early risers strolling on this vast playland of freshly raked beach. I sipped tea (hot and iced) bemused by pods of dolphins that frolicked in the surf throughout the day. In the evening I savored white wine staring down at this constantly animated tableau and one night I even worked on my laptop from my little perch. The combined glow from the moon and my computer screen will never be forgotten.
VB Ocean Beach Club at Dusk
A little investigating led me to unearth lots of charm amidst all this newness. Of course the quaintness of the beach never waned, but I delighted in discovering some small, soulful places that clearly rank as locals’ best-loved establishments. I peeked into Pelon’s Baja Grill, a surfers’ favorite, the first day I arrived, yet sadly never made it back for some of their renowned fish tacos and guacamole. I picked up some excellent take out instead from Taste nearby and brought it back to my surf-side enclave. I also longed to experience the old beach house interiors of Doc Taylor’s and Tautogs, but opted out of eating there as well since the beach beckoned. (I swear I’ll return to Doc Taylor’s some day, especially for their crab crêpe with veggies topped with Hollandaise sauce.) Steve and I did, however, grab breakfast at The Belvedere Coffee Shop, a real classic that hasn’t changed since the days when he would come here with his buddies before a day in the surf. The Belvedere is a totally unpretentious diner that offers fantastic views of the ocean and tasty eggs cooked to order.
Rockfish, a must-see for anyone that has a love for the Beatles, presents more great vistas of the beach. After having studied the plethora of Beatles’ memorabilia here (one of the largest in the world), I was happy to sit outside and gaze at the VB Fishing Pier over their lighter version of scrumptious She-crab soup (a sort of bisque) and Pina Colada. She loves you, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Steve arrived for my last night and I was excited to show him all that I had discovered at Virginia Beach Oceanfront. We strolled along the boardwalk, his eyes widening as though he was seeing it all for the first time. We stopped in front of the many different points of interests—-extraordinary statues and the like—that were erected at each intersection of a street along the Boardwalk. He was amazed at how far this once shabby beach town had come, how handsomely the oceanfront had been developed over the past ten years or so. We lingered at the Neptune Plaza for a while where free concerts are performed nightly to a highly animated crowd. We poked in at The Jewish Mother, an institution of sorts known for hosting performers such as Dave Matthews and Dr. John (before they became big). Steve informed me that it hadn’t changed an ounce since his college days but we learned that it is slated to take over new digs in 2010. (This is likely a good thing since to me it looked like too much of a dive.) Their eight-inch tall carrot cake, however, tempted me greatly but we were in search of a more romantic venue.
We found our bliss at the SkyBar, the wraparound pool bar that opens at 10 p.m. on top of the Hilton. Apparently it’s only open to hotel guests, but that alone would give me reason to stay there. Part Miami, part Marrakesh, part (yes) Saint-Tropez, the look of the SkyBar is sexy and alluring. As soon as the doors opened, we busted onto the scene, took one look around and threw down my jacket on one of their many double-wide loungers that punctuate their pool deck. After doing the 360-degree tour, we opted for a lounger within the indoor pool area. It was nearing late September by now and the ocean breeze cast a chill in the air. Inside felt like a tropical paradise. We sipped strawberry daiquiris and lounged in each others’ arms amidst piles of white terry towels, many of which were rolled up into perfect bolsters. Steve moved to take off his shirt until I suggested we not become quite so comfy. As much as we were enjoying each other, we didn’t miss a minute of the action that played out before us. House music blared and fashionable folks slithered by as though they were mingling at a mixer on the beach.
I wondered how many people had ended up in the pool after a couple of hours of partying. Undoubtedly a few. If so, VB’s wet T-shirt exhibitions have certainly come a long way. Steve and I vowed to come back to take in even more next time.
SkyBar and Its Infinity Pool by Day
Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club, 3401 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-0601 or 800-245-1003, www.vboceanbeachclub.com
Hilton, 3001 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-3000, www.Hilton.com/VirginiaBeach; SkyBar is open Friday and Saturday nights from 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. throughout the season (which goes at least until October 31st when they’ll have a Fire & Ice Halloween Party—ooo la la!). SkyBar memberships are also available inside Catch 31, the showcase restaurant of the Hilton, for $100.
Pelon’s Baja Grill, 3619 Pacific Avenue, 757-417-3970, www.pelonsbajagrill.com
Taste, 36th & Pacific Avenue, 757-422-3399, www.tasteunlimited.com
Doc Taylor’s Restaurant, 207 23rd Street, 757-425-1960
Tautogs, 205 23rd Street, 757-422-0081, www.tautogs.com
Belvedere Coffee Shop, 3601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-0613
Rockfish Boardwalk Bar and Sea Grill, 1601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-7625, www.phrinc.com/restaurants/rockfish
The Jewish Mother, 3108 Pacific Avenue, 757-422-5430, www.jewishmother.com
More Fun
Pocahontas Pancake & Waffle Shop, Atlantic Aveune & 35th Street, 757-428-6352, www.pocahontaspancakes.com; loved the kitschy decor and will definitely return some day for their griddlecakes.
Whalebone, 1616 Laskin Road #748B, 757-437-8141, www.whalebonesurfshop.com; the place to shop for surfboards and surf attire, particularly ultra-cool T-shirts.
Coastal Edge, 2122 Atlantic Avenue, 757-491-9017, www.coastaledge.com; a super-popular surf and skate shop with numerous locations in Virginia Beach.
Forbes Candies, 2318 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-5173, www.forbescandies.com; an Old School candy company that continues to make yummy saltwater taffy and other treats in big copper pots.
