Art & Culture Denver Hotels Music & Dance Restaurants: Art & Culture Denver Hotels Music & Dance Restaurants
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Fun this Summer and Year-Round at The Curtis
Curtis Philosophy and a Nod to the Beatles
Who says summer fun is all about building castles in the sand, running through sprinklers or taking a dip in a secret water hole? Sure, those activities can provide many hours of giggles and entertainment, but when was the last time you checked into a hotel that really made you smile? And smile. And smile. And smile.
Kids on vacation and weary business travelers alike can’t help being endeared to The Curtis, a Doubletree Hotel, located in downtown Denver. A stay at The Curtis leaves an indelible mark on your funny bone–and every other sensitive part of your body–from the moment you spot their giant building blocks sign that say “all together now” to when you’re back home recalling your fun-filled visit at this unique property.
To me, some of the best hotels are ones that provide a memorable experience, a positive stay that you can’t easily create at home. The colorful and cheery Curtis does this and more. You can just sashay through a Laugh In-like set or pay closer attention to the Light Brite artwork and oversized wooden game board in their lobby. Here it’s also fun to check out the video art that displays favorite retro games and the Cartoon Network playing on the T.V. You can catch up on pop culture trivia in the library or drink a retro soda at the 5 & Dime and nibble on one of the hotel’s fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies on this level as well. If you’re indecisive about personal or professional doings, just ask to play rock, paper, scissors with the frond desk attendant. Head to your room and the real fun begins.
The Corner Office Bar
If you’re like me, you’ll find yourself riding the elevator numerous times just to press the different buttons to hear what little quip, joke, tune or diddli makes you laugh next. Be sure to carve out a moment throughout your stay to check out the decor on each of the floors which corresponds with a rainbow of themes including one hit wonders, laugh out loud and big hair. If you’re not chuckling yet, go next door to The Corner Office, the signature restaurant and oh-so happening bar of The Curtis, for a martini, shaken not stirred. Before you go to bed though, program a wake up call from Austin Powers or even Marilyn Monroe.
For even more entertainment, take in a show, concert or theater piece across the way at The Denver Center for the Performing Arts (DCPA). Now that’s what I call fun this summer and all year round.
The Curtis, 1405 Curtis Street, Denver, 800-525-6651 and 303-571-0300, thecurtis.com
The Curtis Library
Art & Culture Denver Fashion & Style Paris: Art & Culture Denver Fashion & Style Paris
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Yves Saint Laurent Comes to Denver
One of Many YSL Creations to be Shown in Denver
So long cow town, hello haute couture. Maybe I was a bit ahead of my time moving to Telluride, Colorado from Paris, France. Well, there’s nothing like the combination of natural beauty and sophistication and clearly that dynamic duo is increasingly on the rise here in our magnificent Rocky Mountain state.
Mention of an Yves Saint Laurent exhibit in Denver popped out at me yesterday in a piece in the New York Times about Pierre Bergé. (Read Saint Laurent’s Other Half.) My excitement quickened as I discovered that Denver was selected as the only U.S. city to present the major Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective featuring forty years of this world-renowned designer’s creativity, organized by Monsieur Bergé. It came as no surprise that the show will be hosted by the Denver Art Museum (DAM), one of the most stunning showcases of art and history in our country. The show opens March 25, 2012 and will run through July 7, 2012.
After contacting the museum, I learned that tickets won’t go on sale until 2012 and it’s not known yet whether they’ll be available a couple of weeks or months before the opening. So I suggest you begin checking the DAM Web site toward the beginning of next year. I’ve delighted in experiencing minimal crowds at past temporary exhibitions at the Denver Art Museum, but it’s hard to imagine that this show won’t achieve blockbuster status. Who knows though? Maybe we won’t have to deal with the typical museum crowds of other major metropolitan centers. We are just a bunch of mountain folk after all, n’est-ce pas?
Thank you to the Denver Art Museum and Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris/Photo a. Guirkinger for the use of the above image. This short evening ensemble, from haute couture collection Spring-Summer 1988, pays tribute to Vincent Van Gogh. The jacket, embroidered with sequins and pearls, is shown over a green crepe blouse and paired with a purple crepe skirt. I had the pleasure of attending a couple of YSL haute couture shows during the eleven years I lived in Paris, but am not sure whether I saw this beauty on the runway!
Spa Going: The Perfect Antidote to the Winter Blues
The Sitting Room of the Spa George V at the Four Seasons in Paris
Ho hum. If you’re not an avid outdoor enthusiast, you might be growing tired of winter by now. The Northeast has been in the grip of mighty cold and snow for the past couple of months and as I write this, half the U.S. is bracing itself for another arctic wallop. Europe has experienced quite the winter as well, particularly in Paris where I hear many fashionistas have gone so far as to trade in their stylish châpeaux for more practical knit hats—mon dieu!
Aside from cozying up on my couch with my kitties, an excellent cup of tea and a good book, I’ve found a trip to a spa to be the best therapy for curing mid-winter doldrums. (That’s, of course, after I’ve had fun in the mountain air.) Pampering and intense relaxation always warm my body and soul, leaving me to feel newly restored and ready to affront the cold or whatever else is thrown my way.
I love how almost no matter where we find ourselves, we can chose a spa experience that will transport us to a new and different healing space sure to transform us on many levels. There’s a spa out there for seemingly every mood and budget; it’s just up to us to seek it out.
The Oxford Spa Treatment Room
When I flew into Denver recently, I experienced a treatment at The Oxford Club Spa just hours after I landed. Now this is how you recover from tiresome travels and acclimate yourself to the high altitude of the Rockies, I thought. I chose a facial that left my skin feeling plumped up, beautifully hydrated and well prepared for exposure to the cold, dry air of the West. Carried out by a fairy-fingered esthetician within a warm, dimly-lighted space, the treatment wrapped me in the same quiet luxury found next door at The Oxford Hotel, one of Denver’s most historic properties. I padded out of there, ambled a few blocks in LoDo (Denver’s Lower Downtown) and promptly fell into a deep state of relaxation within my hotel room. Never had I slept so well the first night at a higher elevation. Maybe next time I’ll even try a workout in their fitness room.
At the other end of the spectrum, travelers may indulge in a terrifically high-end spa experience at the Four Seasons George V in Paris. Unless you’re a die-hard minimalist, you’re going to love the Spa George V. If Marie Antoinette were around today, this is what she’d want her spa to resemble. Festooned in an array of eighteenth-century fabrics and furnishings, and a trompe l’oeil depicting the gardens of Versailles (located behind the indoor pool), yet fresh as the morning dew, the ambiance of this spa wraps you in cosseted luxury. And like at many other spas around the world, you don’t have to be a hotel guest to experience its charms, as long as you come for a treatment. So here’s my tip for transatlantic travelers: Arrive here directly from the airport and plan on spending a few hours to help you become acclimated to Paris. Often due to early morning arrivals people are not able to check into their hotel rooms right away, so leave your bags here, and conquer jet lag with one of the spa’s special massages, and then take a short nap behind a veiled curtain in one of their dreamy resting areas. I guarantee that this plan will change the course of your whole stay.
Treatment Room at the Spa George V
I think this is a good plan of action for spas all over the country as well, especially since traveling these days leaves us increasingly weary. Dealing with our daily routine can seem like a big expedition as well, especially during these storm-filled winter months. Thank goodness there are spas around the country to promote that ah-haaaa feeling.
The Oxford Spa Lobby
The Oxford Club Spa, 1616 Seventeenth Street, Denver, www.TheOxfordHotel.com
Spa George V, 31 av George V, 8th arrondissement Paris, www.FourSeasons.com/Paris
For more spa stories, peruse my Spa category. Check out More LoDo Love to read my take on LoDo and The Oxford Hotel.
Colorado Denver Outdoor Adventures Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Denver Outdoor Adventures Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Gotta Love Colorado
Ready, Get Set, Go!
It’s not every day you see the above scene in a major city. Indeed, Denver’s Big Air event marked the first city-based World Cup big air happening in the U.S. Leave it to Denver, the mile-high city and gateway to the Rockies. Dutch rider Rocco Van Straten wooed a crowd of 14,000, taking leap after leap on this giant course to win the Snowboard FIS World Cup last night. You can view coverage of the competition this weekend on NBC.
Denver's Towering 106-Foot High Slope---Why Not?
Colorado boasts a lot of firsts, in fact, especially when it comes to snowsports. This year’s X Games, which began today in Aspen, showcase three events—ski halfpipe and snowboard and ski slopestyle—that will likely become added to the 2014 Winter Olympics. Check out the story in Tuesday’s New York Times. It’s not the first time this has happened and I’m sure it won’t be the last.
I better tell my ski instructor/snowbiking buddy, Dave Valentine, to perfect his skills. Heck, both skiing and cycling are Olympic sports—why not snowbiking?
You can snowbike in Telluride with an instructor—or go out on your own once you’ve gone with an instructor. Contact Telluride Ski & Snowboard School to line up a lesson. I’ve actually taught many snowbike lessons myself; they’re terrific fun and a great equalizer if you have people of different (ski or snowboard) abilities looking to go out and play on the mountain together for a few hours.
Thank you to Oliver Kraus and Tom Kelly, from FIS and U.S. Snowboarding, for the use of the above images.
Denver Hotels Mountain Living Travel: Denver Hotels Mountain Living Travel
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Travel Lightly: Something to Remember During the Busy Holiday Season and Always
CME: My Ticket to Ride
“Travel lightly,” said my dear friend Jane over the phone.
“Oh, I will,” I quickly replied. “I’m not packing much for New York.”
“I’m not talking about traveling lightly in that sense,” she insisted. “I mean be light, as in light of spirit.”
“Oh, of course,” I answered as I pondered the full meaning of her words. “Yes, I will––-I must. Yes, I have to remember to take that approach,” I emphasized as we ended our conversation.
I can’t tell you how much I’ve thought about those two simple words these past ten days. Travel lightly. Travel lightly. This has become my mantra of late. I know that everything begins with intention and how you ease into (or respond to) a situation dictates its outcome. But it’s nice to be reminded of this sort of thing.
Jane first mentioned travel lightly to me when I was at my parents’ house in upstate New York. I had parked myself there for a few days after having spent a short week in Denver with my 84-year-old dad which had followed one night in Aspen after having left Telluride. The nights away were already racking up. From upstate New York, I was taking a four-day jaunt to New York City and Philadelphia (actually outside of Phillie) for both business and pleasure. That little side trip involved countless trains (Amtrak and regional transit), buses, taxis and the New York subway along with drop offs and pick ups at commuter rail stations by Jane (for NYC) and a cousin (for Phillie). Most of the scheduling and ticketing was carried out online but still, a lot was left to chance. As I galloped down to subterranean platforms and stood in long lines serviced by far too few ticket sellers, I took a deep breath and quietly whispered travel lightly to myself.
With these two mighty words, it seemed as though there was no situation too stressful to handle. When I found out there was no baggage storage at the major New York rail stations (something I suspected but didn’t find the time to confirm), I wheeled my overnight bag and jostled my laptop case and heavily-loaded pocket book into a Starbucks to regroup once at Penn Station. I carefully unwrapped one of my mother’s chocolate cupcakes to accompany my coffee. Already in a stupor from having been too much on the go, a good shot of caffeine and sugar was not only craved but required. My glorious homemade treat promptly plopped to the floor––-frosting side down–just as my fingers reached for it. Although that’s the sort of thing that can easily put you over the edge (silly as that sounds), this time I only shrugged my shoulders with a hint of regret. Instead I whipped out my laptop in search of a luggage storage facility nearby. Traveling lightly now more than ever.
I found the luggage storage at Schwartz Travel, a company with two locations, one close to Penn Station, one near Grand Central. I opted for the latter since that was closer to where I would be taking my last train of the day. The taxi dropped me off at a rather obscure address sandwiched in between a flourish of Brazilian restaurants on W 46th Street. I rolled my load in through a nondescript entranceway and took an old elevator up, wondering the whole way if it was going to land me safely to the designated floor. The doors practically opened into a dressmaker’s workshop named Sew Chic.
“Is this where I find the luggage storage?” I ventured to the older woman––and apparent seamstress––behind the counter.
“Yes, I handle the affairs for Schwartz Travel when they’re not here,” she replied matter of fact-ly as though it was the most normal thing in the world to create a luggage storage among black chiffon evening dresses and sequin jackets. I paid the $10./per bag/per day fee and followed her into the back room where my charge was neatly stowed next to three large suitcases. Is this for real? I thought to myself. Only in New York. Only in America where entrepreneurship seizes every possible opportunity for establishing a business, even if it’s on the sly.
If you just let go, it’s amazing how things work out when you travel, when you live life, when you go with the flow. And when they don’t work out, you have to travel even more lightly. I adopted this Zen-like state when I stood outside of the 30th Street Station in Philadelphia, waiting for a bus that pulled up forty minutes late. That put my two other travel connections in jeopardy but instead of sweating it, I decided to breathe deeply and travel lightly. Everything was already out of my control and I knew that worrying about the situation would only make it worse.
I was reminded of that attitude on the back end of my east coast trip when my travel arrangements from downtown Denver to the mountains became upended. I like spending at least a night in the mile-high city to acclimatize to the Rockies before heading to higher elevations. Plus I love Denver. I had also planned to visit my brother and sister-in-law in Redstone, halfway between Denver and Telluride on my way home. It didn’t make sense for me to be encumbered with my car, so I had come up with a carefully devised plan that involved taking the Greyhound (yeah, the bus!) from downtown Denver to Glenwood Springs where my sister-in-law was to pick me up and take me to her house (where my car also awaited me) forty-five minutes away. I had taken the Greyhound on the east coast just over a year ago (read Riding the Bus) and was impressed with the sleekness of their new buses, complete with WiFi, electrical outlets and very acceptable toilets. The Greyhound also happens to be the only viable transportation option from downtown Denver to the high country. (The train takes double the time and the shuttle buses leave from the airport.) Plus I’m a travel writer, always up for new experiences.
Well, it will be a while before I consider taking the Greyhound again. I should have known something was up when I couldn’t book my ride online the night before. All attempts on the Internet and phone failed. I gave up and decided to show up early at the station. What a zoo! Mothers spanking children, guys swearing, people scuffing about in what appeared to be bathrobes. At the risk of sounding like a snob, I can tell you there was no end to the amount of incivilities I witnessed as I stood in line for my westward bound (final destination: L.A.) bus. The scene last year in D.C. was decidedly more presentable. To make matters worse, customer service is not their forte chez Greyhound. I found out that the reason I couldn’t book in advance was that the bus I wanted had been soldout. Why couldn’t they just tell me that instead of having it come off as a systems failure? The bus scheduled to depart the day before had been cancelled due to a big storm in the mountains, a situation that resulted in double the volume of travel for the day I planned to leave Denver. I stood in the wait list line an hour before being turned away.
Travel lightly, I thought to myself as I lugged my forty-six-pound suitcase and assorted bags to the nearest hotel (no taxi in sight) in search of a Super Shuttle to take me to the airport. There I made arrangements to take a Colorado Mountain Express (CME) shuttle to Glenwood Springs. My saviors! These folks were so polite and civilized that I couldn’t help flagellating myself with what-was-I-thinking thoughts about Greyhound as I stepped into their clean van. Unfortunately this SNAFU meant that I’d be arriving too late in Glenwood to expect my family to pick me up. (Even seasoned mountain folk know to avoid windy, ice-patched, mountain roads at night.) It seemed I’d have to arrive a day later than planned in Telluride. And I’d have to get a hotel in Glenwood for the quick overnight. Too bad. Go lightly. Go with the flow. I was almost home, but not quite.
Since my sister-in-law wasn’t able to show up until noon, I turned this inconvenience into an opportunity and decided to go to the Glenwood Hot Springs Pool for a soak the following morning. My neck and shoulders felt riddled with knots from having carried too much weight for too many days. I knew this therapy would further lighten my spirit as well and set me right for my four-hour drive back to T-ride. Funny how things always have a way of working out. Jane would be proud of me indeed.
Glenwood Springs Hot Springs Pool: The Perfect Antidote for Weary Travelers
QUICK TRAVEL TIPS
Baggage Storage
Most of the nation’s major train stations and bus terminals no longer provide luggage storage. Google luggage storage and the name of the city you’re visiting to find out where you can stow your stuff. With a bit of presence and charm, you can also check your bag (s) with the bellmen at fancy hotels. If need be, stay for a cup of tea to warrant the favor.
Trains vs. Buses
Do your research. In certain markets, train travel is much more expensive than taking the bus along the same route. This is especially the case between New York City, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C. There are many fine motor coaches that operate along these well-travelled routes patronized by a smart clientele distinctly unlike Greyhound’s modern-day, hobo-looking crowd.
Be Super Weather-Savvy
I live in the Rockies. I know how a storm can shut down I70 (the highway between Denver and the mountains), crippling cars, trucks and buses caught in its winds. But damn it, I was had. The day was sunny and warm when I arrived in Denver and although I saw people staring at monitors showing live feeds from the snowy scene at Eisenhower Tunnel––the supreme weather marker of the Colorado mountains––I ignored how it might impact my travel the next day. Know that Denver weather often has little to do with what’s going on in the mountains. And as much as we know how to brave storms in Colorado, snowy weather inevitably creates cancellations and delays that can goof up many peoples’ plans.
Consider Elevation Changes
I live at nearly 10,000 feet above sea level in Telluride. But if I’m away for ten days or more, I often have to deal with altitude adjustments that can bring on headaches and insomnia. If you have these challenges, plan to spend a couple of days at a lower elevation before hitting the nosebleed heights. Denver and Glenwood Springs are both terrific options. My night in Glenwood (elevation 5763 feet) afforded me the comfort of another good sleep before hitting the higher elevations. This time I stayed at the Ramada Inn which worked out fine, especially since it was convenient and within my budget. For a more self-indulgent stay, I recommend the Hot Springs Lodge, a fresh, bright hotel that I’ll be posting a story on soon.
This just in: There’s a rumor that Colorado Mountain Express will be servicing downtown Denver in the near future.
Go to What Kind of a Traveler Am I Anyhow? Part One: Packing to find out more about how I typically pack and travel.
Art & Culture Cycling Denver: Art & Culture Cycling Denver
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Hysterical in Denver
THE Most-Talented Cast of DCTC's "The 39 Steps"
I’ve been traveling tons the past few weeks and as you can see from my last blog, failed miserably at posting stories from the road. I have, however, rounded up lots of material for a great variety of pieces that I plan to publish in the upcoming weeks.
My travels began in Denver where I picked up my parents at DIA for a two-week blitz throughout Colorado and the Southwest. Stay tuned for dispatches about road tripping with seniors (average age: eighty-years young) and the wonders of the West.
My mother and I love going to the movies and the theater together. This time we were particularly well served in the latter at the Denver Center Theatre Company’s (DCTC) staging of the madcap Hitchcock spoof “The 39 Steps.” Boy, did we roar! I have never laughed so hard at the theater and you can bet I was not alone. This lightning-paced comedy has been such a hit, in fact, that “The 39 Steps” has been extended in Denver’s Ricketson Theatre through November 21st. Don’t miss it! You’re sure to be entranced by this hilarious send-up of Hitchcock’s 1935 film noir thriller in which four actors deftly take on over fifty characters. Yes, that’s right––over fifty characters, each one more amusing and convincingly played than you can imagine. The gentleman seated next to us was seeing this production for the second time in as many weeks. If I lived in Denver, I’d sign up for round two as well. It’s great to laugh and delight in such clever entertainment.
For added fun, take a Denver pedicab to or from the theatre. These three-wheeled bicycles are perfect for the mile-high city where fair weather is more the norm than visitors realize. You can hail these environmentally-friendly rickshaws outside of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts complex as well as at most other tourist attractions. My Mom and I did just that and continued to laugh all the way back to our hotel.
Denver Ricketson Theatre Tip: Order your libation before the show and it will be ready for you at intermission without the wait.
Sam Gregory as "Richard Hannay in "The 39 Steps"--just one of many modes of transportation you'll experience in this show!
Denver Food & Wine Restaurants Telluride: Denver Food & Wine Restaurants Telluride Telluride Festivals
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Top Chefs
Pasta from Panzano
What does it take to become a top chef? Certainly lots of training, years of experience and a passion for creating a memorable dining experience. The desire to make people happy seems to be the driving force behind the success of most culinary whizzes, professional and amateur alike. (Just think of your grandma baking you your favorite cake. My grandmother’s was a special boiled raisin cake with thick butter cream frosting that neither my mother nor I have been able to duplicate.) This notion of people-pleasing became abundantly clear to me recently when I interviewed two notable chefs on Travel Fun.
Chef Kenny from Capella
Chef Kenny Gilbert, Executive Chef at Capella in Telluride, told me that he became interested in food when he’d watch his father barbecuing as a child. Growing up in the South, there was always lots of barbecuing and Kenny had many opportunities to see how people enjoyed it so much.
Chef Elise Wiggins, Executive Chef at Panzano in Denver, talked to me about a similar experience. She explained that in her native Louisiana, much of life revolves around eating. “It’s about good times with family and friends. I learned at a young age that you can make a lot of people happy by cooking.”
Both went on to pursue their love of cooking at culinary school and began to rack up experience at home and abroad in the kitchens of some of the best known restaurants in the world. Chef Kenny draws largely upon basic French techniques that emphasize such fundamental practices as kitchen organization and garde manger (pantry) management. Chef Elise has been greatly influenced by her mother who spent summers in northern Italy, preparing regional dishes for her family and also by many Italian chefs with whom she studied over the years. Her regular travels to Italy have helped her to hone her knowledge of largely northern Italian cuisine, the emphasis at Panzano. Chef Elise pays particular attention to how flavors change according to the terroir in Italy, especially in products such as cheese and salumi.
Chef Elise from Panzano
So it comes as no surprise that at Capella in Telluride you might find a barbecued pulled pork sandwich on the menu at Suede, the hotel’s swanky informal bistrot, and a superior cut of meat served up at Onyx, this tony establishment’s more high-end restaurant. Chef Kenny’s whimsical note is rolled out in the form of a multi-tiered candy cart that showcases everything from puckery lemonheads and swirl pops to luscious truffles and pâte de fruits. “I like to serve up childhood favorites,” Chef Kenny says. “I’ve seen a diner moved to tears over Swedish fish.” Creating and conjuring up memories is after all an essential part of the dining experience.
At Panzano, gorgeous plates of food composed of the freshest ingredients and many house made specialties such as hand cured meats delight discriminating diners in Denver, a city that is quickly becoming one of the food capitals of the country. If you haven’t tried one yet, this is where you’ll find the best grilled Caesar salad on the planet. Who would ever think grilled romaine could taste this good? “It’s a simple technique with simple ingredients,” Chef Elise says.
Lighting Up Mountain Village with Telluride Festival of the Arts
Chef Kenny and Chef Elise will have the opportunity to meet up and create some culinary magic together at the Telluride Festival of the Arts, a celebration of the visual and culinary arts that’s taking place this year August 14 through 16. They’re both participating in a gastronomic extravaganza with Hosea Rosenberg, winner of Bravo’s 2009 Top Chef. “It’s a well-organized, flawless event that features a great mix of people,” Chef Elise told me. This will be her second year at the festival and my first. I’m really looking forward to it, too, not only since one of this year’s highlights will be a free concert by Joan Osborne but also because it has become abundantly clear to me that foodie events big and small are about making people happy.
One of Chef Kenny's Creations
Kitchen Tip from Chef Kenny Gilbert
“Time management is key. It’s really about the mise en place,” Chef Kenny emphasizes. “Have everything in place, write your list out, check inventory and have everything right in front of you.” I’m hoping this will up my chances of having everything ready at once and served at the desired temperature!
Culinary Advice from Chef Elise Wiggins
Memorize flavors. “Act like a three year-old and put everything in your mouth in its raw state and then you will remember its flavor,” Chef Elise says. “This also helps you to realize that you can overdue it with certain herbs.”
Onyx and Suede are the two signature restaurants of Capella, Telluride, 970-369-0880, www.capellatelluride.com
Panzano, located in the Hotel Monaco, 909 17th Street at Champa, Denver, 303-296-3525, www.panzano-denver.com
Note that Chef Elise gives cooking classes once a month specializing in everything from pickling and preserving to the preparation of turduckin, a classic Cajun dish served at Christmas.
Type Capella or Panzano into the search in the upper right hand corner of my Web site to read more about my dining experiences at Onyx and Panzano. You can also read my story on Hotel Monaco by typing Hotel Monaco into the search. You’ll notice that I put a quirky spin on it.
Book Picks
Chef Kenny recommends “Developing the Leaders Around You,” by John C. Maxwell. This book has helped him to look at his employees as potential leaders, not just employees. “In the kitchen, I feel everyone is a struggling artist, so it’s important to understand people’s skill sets in order to help them create goals and to achieve them,” Kenny says. “If I can give to the employee and they give to me, then they’ll give back to the guests and the guests will feel their passion.”
Chef Elise loves “Eat, Pray, Love,” by Elizabeth Gilbert and so do I. The food scenes in particular are extraordinary!
Bon Appétit!
Denver Hotels Restaurants Travel: Denver Hotels Restaurants Travel
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Viva Italia, Viva Italian Americans, Viva la Dolce Vita in Denver
- The Sweet Life: Italian Style
Clemente. My name ends with a vowel, just like Delgato, Cardaluccio, pizza. When my grandparents emigrated from Italy our name was actually spelled Clementi. They Americanized it somewhat with an “e.” Even Frankie Valli once contemplated making his stage name Vally with a “y.” But he opted to be a good ‘ole Jersey Boy and settled on Valli and in so doing preserved more of his Italian heritage.
- Jersey Boys: Italian American Guys
My dad is a Frankie, too. Not from Jersey but from Troy, New York. Close enough. Recently the music of the Jersey Boys helped him to reconnect with his roots. I spent a lot of time back east this past summer helping my father get through a difficult passage in his life and every step of the way we were serenaded by the melodious and memorable sounds of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. We became Jersey Boys addicts. My dad had seen this explosive Broadway show that recounts the story of four Italian American guys and their rise to fame last spring. Their hits from “Sherry” to “Oh, What a Night” to “My Eyes Adored You” to “Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You” and more buoyed him up to a place of joy he had not known in quite some time. Through this music, I could tell my dad was retracing part of his own story. And I was right there with him, rediscovering a sound and a slice of Italian American culture I had not paid much attention to in quite some time.
So when I heard Jersey Boys was coming to Denver at the end of last year, I knew I had to experience this show. I had originally hoped to go with my father but he wasn’t planning to make it to Colorado this winter; it would be the first ski season in many years he would miss. Still, I needed to go; I had to hear this foot-stomping music live. I also knew it would be a way to reconnect with my dad even if he wasn’t seated beside me.
Since I rarely do anything halfway, I decided to plan twenty-four hours around an Italian theme in Denver. The logical hotel choice would have been Hotel Teatro, Denver’s premiere boutique hotel, an intimate establishment that exudes all the sophistication and style of an exclusive Italian villa. Having stayed at Teatro before, I decided to try something new and instead opted for The Brown Palace, a Denver landmark of the finest quality designed in the Italian Renaissance style. (Who ever would have imagined that of such a great western destination?)
- The Brown Palace: A Classic Beauty
I checked in to The Brown Palace Hotel early—just after noon—and was instantly transported into a world of grandeur most associated with the finest hotels of New York, Chicago or London. The bellman whisked me through the ornately decorated lobby and inner courtyard festooned with garlands, beads and some 100,000 little white lights. A glittering chandelier as big as a small hot air balloon hung blithely over the courtyard which was now filling up with people turned out in their Sunday best; most were gathering for tea, a Brown Palace tradition carried out throughout the year that becomes exceedingly prized during the holidays. (People reserve as much as a year in advance for a teatime table here in December but if there’s only two of you and your schedule is flexible, there’s always a chance you may be seated.)
I hastened to arrange a few of my belongings in my room before hustling off to meet David Craig, the General Manager of Hotel Teatro, for lunch. Dave has turned out to be my point man of sorts in Denver since he is always eager to share his best addresses with me in order to clue me in on what’s hot and what’s not in this burgeoning city.
We had dined before together at Prima Ristorante, Teatro’s signature restaurant overseen by renowned chef, Kevin Taylor, although today Dave decided to introduce me to one of his favorite out-of-house Italian restaurants instead. (Located almost next door to The Denver Center for the Performing Arts, know that Prima is a pre theater hot spot and also a favorite for a post theater nightcap and dessert. Its high ceiling, long, flowing curtains ruby red velvet banquettes evoke a theatrical mood that rounds out beautifully any evening devoted to the arts.)
Knowing that I’m a big fan of Larimer Square, the anchor to Denver’s historic LoDo, or lower downtown, Dave ushered me into Osteria Marco, one of many fine restaurants created within the subterranean locales of this bustling street. Brick walls, black tables and dark lighting further enhanced the downstairs hideaway feel of this large, informal Italian eatery. Dave took charge of the ordering and our table was promptly covered with a sampling of Osteria Marco specialities including burrata, a homemade cheese made of a firm mozzarella exterior and a creamy ricotta center, bresaola, a cured meat, and meatball sliders. The restaurant is, in fact, well known for their house made cheeses and meats in addition to showcasing some savory offerings from the rotisserie. This is not your typical Italian restaurant, though, since the menu features only one pasta, a homemade lasagna that I would imagine is the talk of the town.
Dave and I talked about the Italian food scene throughout much of the lunch since I made it clear that I had suddenly become obsessed with everything Italian, at least for this twenty-four hour period. “There’s not an Italian neighborhood in Denver like you find in many other big American cities,” he explained. “But we do have some fantastic Italian restaurants. Frank Bonanno is one of the owners and chefs behind Osteria Marco,” he continued. And it was only minutes later that this driving force on the culinary scene in Denver passed by our table to say hello. It’s always impressive to see a chef working the room but even more so when the guy in charge is also the inspiration behind two other dining establishments, Luca d’Italia, a high-end Italian restaurant and Bones, a soon-to-be-launched noodle bar that I’m sure will be the next fun place to check out on the Denver dining scene.
“Il Posto is one of the very best Italian restaurants in Denver,” Dave added as I queried him further about the Italian dining extravaganza that I was soon beginning to associate with the mile-high city. “I like it because Andrea (the chef and owner) makes the menu fresh every day. He rarely uses more than five ingredients. They do the best red beet risotto you could imagine. Their espresso pasta is really good, too. Their cuisine is really innovative.” My mouth was already watering even though I was just finishing up my last forkfuls of rotisserie chicken salad with pancetta, blue cheese and red onion at Osteria Marco.
“I’ve been to Barolo Grill before,” I chimed in. “They offer an extraordinary dining experience as well. Chef Brian Laird also composes his dishes around the best-sourced ingredients of the season. He’s a big proponent of the Slow Food movement,” I trailed off once David Craig, one of the more influential persons in the hospitality world in Denver concurred that this Cherry Creek establishment is indeed a superior address.
- Agnello con Fagioli at Panzano
“And what do you think about Panzano at Hotel Monaco?” I ventured, knowing that perhaps I was entering touchy territory since I was referring to an Italian restaurant that happened to be housed in Denver’s other first class boutique hotel. (The parallels between Prima Ristorante and Hotel Teatro were striking.)
“Oh, that’s a fine address as well,” Dave declared without flinching.
“Good, because that’s where I’m headed tonight.”
Dave and I bidded ciao to each other and I was left feeling grateful that he always provided not only good company but excellent addresses during my stays in Denver.
I hopped on the free bus at the 16th Street Mall and headed toward the Denver Art Museum, one of my perennial favorites in this cosmopolitan capital of the West. Usually I check out one or more of the temporary exhibitions here, most of which are located in the new section of the museum, the edgy, Rockies-inspired Hamilton Building, designed by Daniel Libeskind. But this time I headed directly to their permanent collection of European and American Art housed in the old section of the museum. I was in quest, more specifically, of Italian art.
Museum going after a leisurely lunch is one of my favorite things to do when traveling. Here I was taken by their choice selection of paintings and furnishings showcased against richly painted walls the color of the earth and sky. I was thrilled to discover that the museum boasted works by many Italian masters including Botticelli, Veronese and Caravaggio. My impressions were further enhanced by the Campari and Pinot Grigio I had consumed at lunch. I was truly living la dolce vita. Had it not been for the occasional descriptions in English, I would have thought I was at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
The closing bell snapped me out of my reverie and I hurried back to the hotel to change for the evening. Turndown had already taken place and housekeeping had left gentle, classical music tuned in in the room. I soaked it up with as much earnest as if I was listening to an Italian aria at La Scala.
- Panzano Before the Theater Crowd Hits
I welcomed the short walk over to Panzano where I was to meet my friend Margie, another well-traveled gal and ardent Francophile, for dinner. It was hard to imagine I was going to be feasting again but by the time the waiter brought over a glass of Prosecco and a plate of figs accompanied by mascarpone and grilled pancetta, I was easily back into the mode of fine Italian dining. More glorious courses followed—from Panzano’s award-winning grilled (yes, grilled!) Ceaser salad to Spaghetti Carbonara to Scallopine di Vitello to chocolate truffle cake—each accompanied by a perfectly paired sampling of wine from some of the most distinctive vineyards in Italy.
I learned that Chef Elise Wiggins wields her culinary genius here with an expertise that transforms local and sustainable ingredients into contemporary Northern Italian cuisine at lunch and dinner. Here, too, the foundation of the restaurant’s offerings revolves around many homemade specialties such as pancetta, sundried tomatoes, tapenade, gelato and an array of flavorful breads. Margie and I joked about switching our allegiances from France to Italy. Clearly she was very much in the spirit of my Italian theme and had even donned a Missoni top for the occasion.
We trotted off to the Denver Center for the Performing Arts to see Jersey Boys, the main act in my Italian flight of fancy. Soon we felt high on food and drink and dance and music. I mouthed the words to the songs that I had come to know by heart with my dad. It was extraordinary to hear these familiar tunes performed live. Suddenly I felt empty though and pangs of sadness hit as I tumbled down from my sugar rush. I missed my dad terribly and wished he, too, was sitting there with Margie and me. But the music grabbed me again, allowing no room for a funk. I got right back in the groove and in so doing realized that my dad was, in fact, right there with me. He was singing and laughing and snapping his fingers right along with me. That’s the magic of music and memories. That’s the magic of Jersey Boys.
I lounged in my luxurious room at The Brown Palace the better part of the next day, languishing over the Jersey Boys program and the booklet that recounted the rich history of this illustrious place of lodging. A maple syrup-drenched Belgium waffle and a flood of coffee served as the best remedy for my excesses from the day before. I mustered up just enough strength to pad down into the recently opened Brown Palace Spa to take a steam. I was tired from my whirlwind trip to Italy but felt amazingly well for having indulged in so much food and wine. It was all of the finest quality, so I was not surprised about feeling so clear-headed and well hydrated.
- The Brown Palace Atrium Outside of the Holiday Season
I looked over the garland draped railing of the atrium-like courtyard onto the festive scene below. Little girls scampered about in jewel-colored velvet dresses with teddy bears tucked under their arms. Three-tiered silver stands were being gingerly placed on the hotel’s eclectic assortment of tea tables. Tea and Champagne (or perhaps Prosecco?) was flowing. It was another joyous day at The Brown Palace. I checked out humming Jersey Boys tunes in my head. I felt more proud of my Italian-ness than ever before. This might indeed be the first chapter to a new life, I thought. Maybe I’ll get around to learning Italian after all. And I know I’ll embark upon another themed weekend in the not-too-distant future. Why, there’s Sonnenalp in Vail for a hit of Bavaria and, of course, Paris Las Vegas, both within a reasonable distance away.
Denver Hotels with an Italian Flair
Hotel Teatro, 1100 14th Street, 303-228-1100 or 800-727-1200, www.hotelteatro.com
The Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th Street, 303-297-3111 or 800-321-2599, www.brownpalace.com
Hotel Monaco, 1717 Champa Street at 17th, 303-296-1717, www.monaco-denver.com
Denver Italian Restaurants
Prima Ristorante, 1100 14th Street, 303-228-1100 or 800-727-1200, www.hotelteatro.com/teatro/dining/prima
Osteria Marco, 1453 Larimer, 303-534-5855, www.osteriamarco.com
Luca d’Italia, 711 Grant Street, 303-832-6600, www.lucadenver.com
Il Posto, 2011 East 17th Street, 303-394-0100, www.ilpostodenver.com
Barolo Grill, 3030 East Sixth Avenue, 303-393-1040, www.barologrilldenver.com
Panzano, 909 17th Street at Champa, 303-296-3525, www.panzano-denver.com
Maggiano’s Little Italy, 500 16th Street, 303-260-7707, www.maggianos.com, another of my Denver favorites. The food and ambiance are so good and authentic that you’d never know that this is a chain restaurant. I love the Denver Pavillon location, just off the 16th Street Mall, which is very close to the Denver Art Museum.
Denver Arts Musts
The Denver Center for the Performing Arts, 303-893-4000 or 303-893-4100 or 800-641-1222, www.denvercenter.org
Denver Art Museum, 13th Avenue between Broadway and Bannock Streets, 720-865-5000, www.denverartmuseum.org
Italian Food and Wine Programs in Denver
Panzano, Barolo Grill and Osteria Marco offer cooking classes and wine tastings on a fairly regular basis.
Travel to Italy
Go here to see travel recommendations from Barolo Grill.
And for those seeking a French fix, go to Spirit of Provence to discover Margie’s passion for France and French goods.
