Bonjour Colorado

Our Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Named for the chief of the Ute Indians, the little town of Ouray (pronounced your-ay) has become one of my favorite getaway destinations in the Rocky Mountains.  One might argue that this is because it’s only an hour’s drive from Telluride, but its appeal extends far beyond its proximity to my place of residence.  And I’ve hardly partaken in the two activities most associated with Ouray:  ice climbing and jeeping.

I’m drawn to Ouray for its striking natural beauty and the delightful mix of Rocky mountain charm and elegance that most of the town’s establishments exude.  It’s not unheard of to spot a couple of five-pointed bucks crossing Main Street in the middle of the afternoon.  Here the mountains plummet into this National Historic District claiming the unpaved backstreets as its foothills, the main street as its valley floor.  The views are so striking in this boxed canyon that Ouray is often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America, a moniker that you can hardly dispute as you gaze up to the jagged peaks that almost entirely encircle this old mining town where tourism is now king.

My boyfriend, Steve, and I have made it a tradition of sorts to spend a short weekend here at the onset of summer, two years in a row that we’ve both been beguiled by the authentic character of this old mountain town.  No fast foods and not a single stoplight either.  Instead Ouray claims bragging rights to a quaint collection of B & Bs and down-home lodges, a jumble of fun shops and restaurants, world-renowned hot springs and a gorgeous hotel that is itself worth the trip.

The Bodacious Beaumont

O.K., by now you know I love luxury hotels.  Well, I’ve found my bliss at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel & Spa.  Even if you just stop by for a drink on the patio, this hotel is a must in Ouray, a must-see in the Rockies.  The Beaumont is a destination hotel that’s worth going out of your way to experience.  And yes it is likely you’ll have to negotiate your schedule and maybe even some scary mountain roads to find your way to this remote part of Colorado.  But do go.  Once here you’ll experience the full glory of the golden days of mining when grand hotels were erected in remote little towns in order to properly receive the high rolling businessmen of the day.  Built in 1886 during Ouray’s heyday, the Beaumont reopened in 2003 after having undergone a five million-dollar renovation lovingly carried out by Dan and Mary King.  The hotel emerged from a near state of ruin as every detail—from its grand staircase to its flourish of ornate wallpapers—was restored, or exactly replicated, to its original Victorian splendor.  In the hotel’s Tundra Restaurant you’ll be greatly impressed by the beauty of the dining room as well as the food and wine offerings.  (The owner, Dan King, was a former wine merchant.)  Dining in this dimly lighted, dark wood paneled space beneath high ceilings makes me feel as though I’ve landed in an old Scottish castle.

Yes, I do love the Old World and also anything Old World-ish in America as long as its exceedingly well done.  Bulow’s Bistro, also in the Beaumont, is one such example.  Its tiled floor, wrought iron accents, café tables and blackboard writings make me feel as though I’ve just landed in a French bistrot.  Here, too, you can expect a remarkable choice of wines.  It’s so reassuring to know that my French fix is only an hour away.

Outdoor activities reign supreme in Ouray but in truth, I’ve always just spent my time strolling around town, poking into shops and checking out a few of the natural spectacular attractions such as waterfalls, the hot springs, and the peaks, known as The Amphitheater, that encircle town.

The Utes were drawn to healing sources for both therapeutic and spiritual reasons, so it comes as no surprise that these springs were greatly revered by this tribe of native Americans.  Descendants of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Utes, still frequent the original source where these springs flow from the base of the mountain into the Vapor Cave of The Wiesbaden, a lodge where a bathhouse once operated as early as 1879.  Here Steve and I most like to loll in the Lorelei, a private outdoor soaking pool that assures you relaxation, rejuvenation and a near-sacred moment shared with your sweetie in steamy waters.  Best to reserve in advance.

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

From here, I recommend going back to your room, especially if it’s one of the spacious condo-types we once experienced at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs.  Or just flop into a seat at the Main Street Theater to watch the multi-media presentation San Juan Odyssey.  (O.K., maybe you could head out for a libation or a bite to eat as well.)  Narrated by C.W. McCall (of “Convoy” fame) with music by Aaron Copeland and The London Symphony Orchestra, this panoramic presentation takes you into the rugged peaks, the gentle valleys and the high mountain passes of the San Juan Mountains.  You traverse some of the most spectacular terrain of the United States during this thirty-five minute show, embracing nature in all its gentleness and cruelty—from blooming wildflowers to charging avalanches—that so mark this part of the Rockies.

“If it’s there, you’ve got to climb it,” seems to be the motto of visitors and residents alike of this uncompromising land for the past century and a half.  Whether you’re hiking, on a horse or jeeping, people tackle these awe-inspiring peaks with fierce determination and drive.  I was grateful that the San Juan Odyssey transported me to some of the most reputed sites of the region:  Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene and Engineer Pass, Mt. Abrams, all places I hope to venture to some day in person.  But in the meantime, I’m perfectly content to experience them from the comfort of my theater seat after a relaxing soak.

Not surprisingly, the presentation—and perhaps the whole town—had the opposite effect on Steve.  Our usual one-hour drive home turned into a four-hour expedition as Steve pulled off onto Last Dollar Road at the top of Dallas Divide.  We rumbled past the broken down farm which appears in the opening scene of “True Grit” and forged forward onto the less-trammeled part of this old dirt road.  Jostled and shaken in his beat-up Jeep, Steve and I felt like two rancheros out on the trail as “San Antonio Rose” blared from the CD player.  I made sure Steve kept his eyes on the road but we both still marveled at magnificent mountain views from elevations as high as 10,000 feet.

We stopped just long enough to take pictures before approaching our descent into another heavenly mountain town, our beautiful Telluride.  Now let’s be clear about the renowned back roads—most old mining roads—of the San Juans.  We weren’t on Black Bear Road, the infamous course which begins at the summit of Red Mountain (just outside Ouray), passes by Bridal Veil Falls (the highest waterfall in Colorado), ending just beyond in Telluride.  Thank goodness it wasn’t this one-way road where more than one traveler has met his demise.  It was plenty challenging for me, however, just enough to give me a taste of the amazing high country exploration available in this part of the Rockies.

We vowed to go back and do more four wheeling along the area’s famous alpine loop in the fall.  Fortunately I feel confident that such an excursion will include stops at my favorite watering holes and rest stops in Ouray, mostly because Steve’s grown attached to them as well.  It’s nice to have more than one magical mountain town to call your own.

Beaumont Hotel & Spa, 505 Main Street, 888-447-3255 and 970-325-7000, 970-325-7050 (Bulow’s Bistro), 970-325-7040 (Tundra Restaurant), BeaumontHotel.com

The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings, Corner of 6th Avenue & 5th Street, 970-325-4347, WiesbadenHotSprings.com

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, 45 Third Avenue, 800-327-5080 or 970-325-4981, BoxCanyonOuray.com

San Juan Odyssey, 630 Main Street, 970-325-4940; best to call for show times.

Other Ouray Favorites

Ouray Hot Springs Pool, 970-325-7073

Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee, 520 Main Street, 970-325-7285, MousesChocolates.com

Rockin P Ranch, 512 Main Street, 970-325-0434, RockinPRanch.com

Buckskin Booksellers, 505 Main Street, 970-325-4044, BuckskinBooksellers.com; open 365 days a year!

Best to check opening days and hours with most Ouray establishments since business is very seasonal.

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

Holidays and Every Day: Quality Not Quantity

Telluride's Black Gold: Telluride Truffle Chocolate Truffle Sauce

I wish I had a dollar—or even a euro—for every time someone asked me how French women stay so thin.  The most obvious answer is that they eat quality, not quantity. They also walk a lot, feel a certain societal pressure to remain slim and, of course, tend to be jazzed up on caffeine and alas, in many cases, cigarettes.  If you’ve ever had a less-than satisfying meal, you know that that provokes cravings of something else.  You’ll have that something else.  And if you’re still not satiated, you’ll seek another something else. Typically people keep on eating until they consume something that tastes really good to them.  I think this is a recurring theme in America.

I—like the French—prefer to eat well from the get go.

This is a big weekend we’re in the throes of, one loaded with greasy barbecue, mayonaise-enriched salads, lots of beer, gin and tonics, chips, brownies, gooey sheet cakes, you name it.  Here in Telluride, we have one of the best Fourth of July celebrations in the country.  It begins with an old-fashioned parade, followed by the Fireman’s picnic and a spectacular show of fireworks at dark. I’m already thinking ahead to my special treat:  a hot fudge sundae from Telluride Truffle, topped with real whipped cream.

Yes, this is the first summer that Telluride Truffle is able to serve up delectable goodies from its own stunning sweet shop located in the heart of town.  Patty Denny, owner and chocolatier extraordinaire of Telluride Truffle, opened this jewel box boutique at the end of last year in the historic Nugget Building (which once housed the first bank robbed by Butch Cassidy).  Visitors and locals alike have been thrilled.  You can stop in here for a box of truffles, a bag of cookies, a piece of cake, or a chocolate sundae to be enjoyed at home or sur place.  Good news:  you only need to delight in a small amount at any given time since the quality is so fine.  I love this little touch of Paree in T-ride!

You can luxuriate in most of the Telluride Truffle products in your own home by ordering from their online boutique.  Type in promo code Paris10 in the Redeem Coupon Box to receive your 10% discount as a BonjourColorado.com reader.  You must try the Telluride Truffle Chocolate Truffle Sauce, but remember that a little goes a long way.  Promise me you’ll spoon it over superior quality ice cream.

You know where I’ll be on the 4th—I hope your holiday is sweet and sparkly as well

Click on the play button below to hear Patty talk about chocolate and Telluride Truffle.

Telluride Truffle's Mountain-Inspired Treats

Likin’ Kelly Liken

Kelly and Her Gourmet Snacks at the Vail Farmers' Market

I make a practice of finding out the names of top restaurants in every city and town I visit, thoughtful research I begin before I leave home and then complete at the end of my stay. From big to small, formal to casual, I love to compile a short list of the three or four recommendations most often provided. Usually I poll at least a half a dozen reliable sources—from locals to hotel managers—and pay close attention to the few names repeated with the greatest measure of enthusiasm. In Vail, Kelly Liken appeared on everyone’s list.

I enjoyed a fabulous dinner this spring at the namesake restaurant of this young chef and am sure that together with my friend and dinner companion, we regaled in one of the finest culinary experiences in the whole Vail Valley. Although Kelly was out of town at the time, to me she seemed to have all the makings of a top chef. Little did I know that she had already been pegged as a Top Chef contestant on the Bravo TV network at that time.

Rick, her charming husband, made sure that every aspect of our meal and wine tasting flowed smoothly. Clearly they make a dynamic team of food professionals; I loved the Americanized twist on the old French classic of the husband heading up the kitchen while madame works the floor. No wonder it appears that Kelly has so much hutzpah on Top Chef. You can taste it in her inventive dishes composed of the freshest and finest ingredients available to this tony Rocky Mountain town. I knew as soon as I entered the Chinese red decor of Kelly Liken that I’d be titillated by dishes full of flavor and panache. We left the restaurant with a jar of Kelly Liken homemade peach (from Palisades, Colorado, renowned for this juicy fruit) jam, delicately laced with ginger in our hands. Every time I sample this wondrous spread, I taste all the boldness of flavor and well-measured finesse of Kelly Liken’s inspired cuisine.

Kelly and Rick: Quite the Pair

It was fun to tune into Top Chef this week, a show I’ve heard much about but had never watched in its entirety. I was rooting for Kelly and another chef, Kenny Gilbert, who I came to know here in Telluride. I winced every time one of these two favorites found themselves up against the criticism and back-stabbing that seems to be such a big part of this show. How brutal! I would guess that some of the chefs wanted to wield their knives on something (or someone!) more than an onion.

Kelly’s back in Vail now but mum’s the word about her Top Chef standing. The fun continues on the air and at her restaurant, however, with a Top Chef Cocktail Party every Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Hmmmm, I wonder if her wry smile belies her final Top Chef status. (The show has been taped after all.)

Kelly’s Summer Harvest Menu is of equal interest to me since it’s sure to represent the finest of Colorado. Every Sunday, Kelly sources and forages the finest goods at the Vail Farmers’ Market and constructs her Sunday evening menu around these offerings. Best to reserve well in advance since this meal, enhanced by a live jazz ensemble that begins at 8:30 p.m., is surely one of the hottest summer events in Vail. You can pick up some of Kelly’s gourmet snacks at this Vail Farmers’ Market, situated in the heart of Vail Village. Maybe you can buy some Kelly Liken ginger peach jam as well.

Kelly Liken, 12 Vail Road, Suite 100, 970-479-0175, KellyLiken.com

Note: Be sure to check your local listings for the Wednesday night airing of Top Chef on Bravo. In Telluride, for example, it’s on later than in Vail.

My Sticky Bun Indulgence at Kelly Liken

Come to Colorado for Cowboys and Way More

T-ride's Town Park: the Quintessential Summer Festival Setting

Summer has popped here in Colorado propelling the season into a solid start. I wrote over a month ago in a previous post about how I attended two major tourism industry events last fall: one for France, one for Colorado. The mood at both gatherings was one of cautious optimism, although I’m sure the French nervosité about their tourism outlook was partly masked by the generous amounts of wine served throughout their program. It seems as though travel to these two fabulous destinations is shaping up nicely, perhaps even better than the travel industry experts might have hoped last fall.

I had a chance to schmooze with many of the movers and shakers from the Colorado travel world at the annual conference of the Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association (CHLA) last November which took place at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, our Rocky Mountain state’s premiere property. As with French Affairs ’09, I only attended the social events of this meeting, get-togethers—both casual and high-brow (yes, even in Colorado)—that allowed many opportunities for networking and idea sharing among some of the top hoteliers in the state. I had just returned from the French travel industry event in New York City, so my desire to draw comparisons was sharper than ever. (If you’ve read this blog some, you know that France and Colorado are often my two frames of references, odd as that may seem!) Resulting verdict: the Coloradans’ professionalism—along with the food and wine they serve at their travel industry events—rivals the level of excellence associated with French hospitality.

Better yet, the notion of friendly service seemed to be emphasized even more at the CHLA event. Perhaps that was largely due to the fact that Karyn Ruth White, motivational comedian/author, kicked off the conference with a stand up routine, entitled Laughing in the Face of Stress for Service Professionals. She delivered a very funny, very real look at the pressures, demands and frustrations that come with working in the customer service field. Karyn Ruth emphasizes the importance of “humortunities,” opportunities for injecting humor into stressful and unpleasant situations. We shuffled off to the Wild, Wild West reception, chuckling about the often craziness of travel and how we—as both travelers and travel professionals—would fare better if we approached certain happenings and encounters with more levity.

I think I’ll try some of Karyn Ruth’s recommendations on the French next time I travel to Paris or the provinces. There must be a clever way of laughing off “Ce n’est pas possible, madame.” Listen to the podcast of an interview I did with Karyn Ruth for lots of laughs.

Here in Telluride, we’re in full festival mode. Like most of the other Rocky Mountain towns, festivals dominate our summer scene. But in T-ride, we’re king of the festivals, many of which have been taking place for well over three decades. The Telluride Bluegrass Festival drew near record-breaking numbers last weekend, ringing in the beginning of summer with four days of extraordinary music, good fun and irrepressible sunshine. This weekend it’s Telluride Wine Festival’s turn, then the Plein Air Festivals in Telluride and Aspen are up.  And the happy beat goes on—as throughout most of Colorado—all the way until the end of September.

No wonder so many people come here to vacation in the summer. And you might have thought we’re just all about cowboys, hikers and hippies. Thankfully we have them, too, but we also have a culture and sophistication that rivals most European destinations.

This is actually a good part of the reason I live here.

Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association, ColoradoLodging.com; contact them to receive your complimentary copy of the Summer Vacation Planner.

Thank you to Merrick Chase, from Telluride Photography, for the photos that accompany this story.  You can purchase images of Colorado and more from Merrick’s site, TelluridePhotography.net.

A Sultry Summer Scene in Colorado

Great Online Boutique Recommendations: Valentine’s 2010

If you’re a woman, you’re likely thinking your gift to your hunny will be a fresh bikini wax—for you, not for him! But still, as much as he’ll appreciate that, you’ve got to come up with something more. Why not offer him some chocolates? Or even better, Vodka? Telluride provides some of the best of both and Bonjour Colorado readers enjoy discounts from our mountain town’s top-of-the-line purveyors, Telluride Truffle and Telluride Vodka.  Type in promo code Paris 10 in the Redeem Coupon Box to receive a 10% discount on Telluride Truffle online orders.  Mention Bonjour Colorado to Telluride Vodka to receive $5. off every bottle you purchase.

Alpine-Inspired Scarves and Scarf Ornaments from Alpen Schatz

Alpen Schatz, another authentic Telluride boutique, is also offering a special 10% discount to BonjourColorado readers; just type in Bonjour upon check out.  I love their Italian silk scarves embellished with heart scarf ornaments, just the sort of ever-lasting Valentine’s Day keepsake I’d gift to myself.  Who can beat hearts and flowers anyway?  Plus all the scarves are awash with edelweiss, an alpine flower that symbolizes happiness.

Chocolate Financiers from Patisserie Colson

Looking to satisfy zee French in you, your lover, brother or mom?  Go directly to Patisserie Colson to shop for tins of refined sweets that will delight your most discerning gourmands.  Their financiers and rugelach serve as the perfect accompaniment to a pot of strong tea or hot chocolate.

If you want to conjure up memories of the beach, think salt water taffy.  Forbes Candies has been wrapping their sweets in sea breeze and sunshine since 1933.  I discovered them on a trip to Virginia Beach last fall and each time I nibble on a piece of their salt water taffy, I’m transported back to the sand and the surf of the Atlantic. Other specialties include fudge and brittle, both of which come in a ship’s cargo-load of flavors.  Enter Bonjour at check out to receive a 15% discount on orders of $30. or more.

For those particular to specialized poufing and pampering, you’ll love the natural products and remedies made by Kneipp.  From Arnica Revitalizing Spray to Lavender Balancing Herbal Bath to Almond Blossom Dry Skin Body Oil, Kneipp has created many extraordinary products that promote a holistic approach to finding good health and well being.  Now that’s what I call a gift of love.  No wonder they’ve been around since 1891.

And I bet you never imagined you could experience so much tradition and savoir faire with online shopping.

Oh, and don’t forget to include that special love note, even if the gift is for yourself.