Colorado Mountain Living Podcasts Telluride Travel: Colorado Mountain Living Podcasts Telluride Travel
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From Telluride to Maui: Alan Bradbury’s Garden of Eden
Where Water and Sky Create Lovely Waterlilies
A Special Kind of Paradise
With off-season officially underway here in Telluride, there’s a stillness that hasn’t been felt in this world-renowned resort since before ski season began. Empty parking spaces, a smattering of closed restaurants, hotels, bars and boutiques punctuate the landscape both in town and in Telluride Mountain Village. Needless-to-say the mountain is no longer illuminated at night with snowcats, snowmobiles or slopeside condos. It’s so windy and dry today that we’re apt to see tumbleweed blowing across the Valley Floor, a Western image that would not seem out of place in our now emptied out mountain town.
Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Springing Forward on Fresh Snow Beneath a Colorado Blue Sky
Life Can Be a Cakewalk, Especially in Telluride on Such a Glorious Day
Wow, I can’t believe it’s been over a month since I posted a story. Where does the time go? It flies by as fast as the ski season itself, every year. This week heralded the arrival of spring, however, I’d be just as happy to be plunged into the depths of winter where the snow varies from fluff to buttery soft. Oh well, can’t turn back time. So for now, I’m embracing the soaring temperatures and highly changeable ski conditions while my anticipation for the next fabulous spring snowfall lingers.
We’ve had a great winter here in Telluride, particularly since mid-January when the storms began to roll in one after another right up through early March. I guess this largely explains my eclipsing from my blog. I’ve been teaching skiing a lot, so much so, in fact, that I was clobbered twice with horrific colds that set me back on all fronts. Yes, that’s the bane of most ski instructors, getting sick during the season, yet it happens with great frequency. We’re out there putting on hopefully a super cheery face and attitude—carrying a class or even just one person—throughout freezing temperatures and sun scorching days. Day after day after day. It’s not unusual to work fourteen days in a row during busy times—that’s bell to bell, making sure that our charges are safe, happy and achieving their goals. Our throats take the biggest beating since we are required to use them often, sometimes to the point of excessive strain such as when we have to yell TURN, TURN, TURN or the dreaded STOP!!!
Art & Culture Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Art & Culture Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Solilochairliftquist: Chairlift Reverie
Check out this short, must-see video and definitely view it in full screen mode. This little gem will transport you directly onto Lifts 7 & 9, locals’ favorites, here in Telluride. Whether you’re alone or accompanied by someone you know or even a complete stranger, there’s no place like the chairlift for awesome daydreaming. It doesn’t get any better than this, especially in T-ride.
Thank you to Faverman Films for this delightful creation.
Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Filling in Nicely in Telluride: Snowstorm After Snowstorm
Telluride, Colorado
Top of Lift One Taken Yesterday on My Walk: Snow Guns Blazing in Between Storms
Yippee! What a month of November it has been so far—and it’s only the seventh! We’ve had seventeen inches of beautiful white fluff in the past four days and more snow is in the forecast for today and tonight. And then very cold temperatures—as low as single digits Tuesday night. We couldn’t ask for a better set up for a great ski season.
End of October was pretty sweet, too. As I reported in Fall in Colorado: October Snow Arrives with My Woolens and Ski Gear, our weather switched from glorious full-on Indian Summer to Winter and it looks like winter’s here to stay. That’s just the way it’s supposed to be in ski country.
Boy, do I love this place. When people ask me if I miss Paris, I sometimes reply “Have you ever been to Telluride?”
It’s going to be a great season. I’m off to my storage area to pick up my boots and boards.
REASONS FOR COMING TO TELLURIDE NOW AND THROUGH MID-DECEMBER
Shopping
All over Telluride and Telluride Mountain Village but especially at the KOTO SKI & Sport Swap; Friday, November 11th-Sunday, November 13th. This legendary snowsports sale actually takes place all day Saturday (pick up and drop off of goods you have to sell on Friday & Sunday). This thirty-six-year-old event has become a Colorado tradition, drawing plenty of people to Telluride for it anually. Expect to find brand new and used equipment and gear at killer prices. Telluride Ski & Golf will also be there to sell some nice deals on a variety of passes. Don’t miss it!
Great Hotel Rates
Whether it’s for this weekend’s Ski & Sport Swap, Thanksgiving (a great time for togethering!) or just some fun, early-season skiing and riding the first half of December, most of the places of lodging in Telluride offer some great deals throughout this period. Here are some of my favorites:
Mountain Lodge Telluride, 970-369-5000; this is my pick for togethering, especially with their variety of packages and offers to choose from.
The Peaks Resort & Spa, 970-728-6800 and 800-789-2220; great specials at this page.
New Sheridan, 800-200-1891; check out their First Tracks Ski Package. Please note that the New Sheridan will re-open for the season November 23.
Dusk at Mountain Lodge
Few Crowds
The Telluride ski area opens on Thanksgiving. Depending on the snow conditions and the amount of terrain open, that weekend can be sort of busy (although you know we rarely have lift lines in T-ride). But after that, there’s nary a bunny on the slopes until holiday vacationers begin to trickle in mid-December. A quick little ski trip to southwestern Colorado is a fantastic way to beat all the holiday hoopla.
Hope to see you around!
Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Fall in Colorado: October Snow Arrives with My Woolens and Ski Gear
Snowy Bikes in Aspen
Woo hoo! It started snowing here in Colorado Tuesday night and the thrill is on. A big storm rolled in just as it’s supposed to—that’s to say in time for most of the leaves to be off the trees (at least at higher elevations) and about a month away from the opening of most major ski areas. It’s time for that white gold to start piling up here in the Rockies. And thankfully, it begins accumulating every year right about now. Our Halloweens are typically snowy as well as spooky.
I waited until last Friday to change out my closets since we’ve enjoyed an incredibly warm fall in Colorado this year. What a glorious autumn it has been and in Telluride, it was so drop-dead gorgeous that the decision was made to keep the gondola open through late October in upcoming years. So now I’m knee-deep in wool sweaters, fleeces and ski jackets and couldn’t be happier. (Actually, winter clothes are a part of my wardrobe year-round since even summer nights can be mighty chilly here in the mountains. Yet I still need to make room for even more layers come fall.)
As long as the leaves have dropped from the trees, it might as well snow! That’s what most of us anticipate here in our mountain towns. The excitement has been building ever since this storm was forecasted many days ago. Folks have been hustling about, getting their clothing and gear in order, shopping to stock their pantries for the long winter, completing the last of outdoor chores such as stacking chopped wood and driving in markers for the plows. Yeah, the countdown has begun; opening day, the kickoff event of ski season, happens on Thanksgiving for most major Colorado ski resorts.
I skied Snowmass, a big lumbering mountain marked by long, wide cruisers, my last day last year. It also happened to be closing day for Snowmass, a super snowy one, in fact, since it stormed like it was midwinter. It was my first time skiing at that resort, so you can bet I can’t wait to get back there this year. Apparently they got nearly a foot of snow out of this storm. I guess that’s why it’s called Snowmass, a name that dates back to the late 1880s because of the snowfields that characterized the mountain at that time. (Sadly, that name doesn’t ring true quite as much today due to global warming. But the folks at Aspen Skiing Company and others have lobbied in DC this fall to draw awareness to the future of Colorado’s ski industry.)
Aside from a few more things I have to do to get my gear in order, I need to focus on two areas of my life before the craziness of ski season hits: catching up on work at my desk and getting into shape. (Be sure to read Getting Ready for Ski Season: Part One and Part Two.) Ugh, sadly these areas represent ongoing endeavors where I never quite feel like I can get ahead. But isn’t that the way for everybody? Maybe it’s the writer in me that adds just the right amount of procrastination to make these undertakings feel like the Holy Grail, one that represents a never-ending quest to obtain. I blew off last night’s ski conditioning class since I thought the roads might be a little dangerous. O.K., perhaps. I didn’t accomplish much work-wise yesterday either since I ended up frittering away time on facebook and getting settled in after a long weekend away.
Oh well, we all have things that get in our way. But when you live in a ski town, everyone tries to keep their priorities in order. And somehow, skiing and snowboarding seem to win out at most every turn.
I guess I’d better get back to work. Opening day will be here before you know it!
Skiing a Snowmass Groomer: It'll Be Happening Soon
Read Skiing, Smores and Storytelling at Snowmass to find out more about what I like about Snowmass. You can also find more Aspen/Snowmass stories here.
For lots of great reasons on why you should book a trip to Telluride, check out Why Telluride. Visit my Telluride category for many others, too.
Thinking of some early season skiing? Consider Wonderful Wolf Creek, one of my favorites. They received nearly two feet in this week’s storm and plan to open this weekend. Wolf Creek never disappoints!
Check out my Skiing & Snowboarding category for lots more winter sports stories. Did you know I’m a ski instructor, too? Yes, as a freelance writer, I figured that that was the best way to make sure I get out on the mountain. (It also balances out my nutty writer’s life.) I’m entering my eighth season here at Telluride Ski & Snowboard School and being a part of this unique club allows me to present a fresh perspective on the many snowsports stories I post on this blog.
Thank you to Aspen Skiing Company and Meredith McKee for the images in this post.
Art & Culture Mountain Living Podcasts Travel Writing & Books: Art & Culture Mountain Living Podcasts Travel Writing & Books
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Lisa Napoli Talks About Bhutan and Radio Shangri-La
Lisa Napoli in Bhutan, Her Adopted Country
It’s almost off-season here in Telluride, the time many people in these mountain towns are heading out for extended trips to far-flung destinations. Aah yes, there are people lucky enough to go to Bhutan, a country the size of Switzerland, sandwiched between India, China and Nepal, in the Himalayas—the mountains are always calling. So I thought it fitting to make my Travel Fun interview with Lisa Napoli, author of “Radio Shangri-La: What I Learned in Bhutan, the Happiest Kingdom on Earth,” available to you now. It’s a terrific book for armchair travelers as well, a delightful read that allows you to visit one of the most exotic countries in the world without ever leaving your living room. Just click on the play button below.
Lisa talks about how she worked for public radio for years and then all of a sudden was given the opportunity to head off to Bhutan to help the Bhutanese with their burgeoning radio station. (At that time—in 2007—they only had one station for a country of over a half million inhabitants.) As she recounts in her book and in our interview, this period in Bhutan turned out to be a life-changing experience for her. I chuckled at so many of her descriptions of her time—and the cast of characters—at the radio station where she worked in Bhutan. Some of them—especially the more quirky people and the locale—reminded me of life here at KOTO, our own little public radio station in T-ride.
Here’s a glimmer of what Lisa shares about travel to Bhutan, a devout, Buddhist country that was closed to the outside world up until forty years ago:
-Bhutan does not keep track of it’s GDP. They do, however, measure GNP or Gross National Happiness. What is that anyway?
-Most people have to go through a tour operator to travel to Bhutan.
-What does the $200./day tourist tax entail?
-Listen to what Lisa likes the most about this intriguing land.
You’ll also hear Lisa read a couple of excerpts from “Radio Shangri-La: What I Learned in Bhutan, the Happiest Kingdom on Earth.”
Click on the play button below to listen to my interview with Lisa Napoli.
Thank you to Lisa for the above photo.
Phallus Symbol: A Part of Bhutanese Life (Note the T-Mobile Card Next to It)
Thank you to Sharon Shuteran for the above photo that she took of this “sculpture” on the doorway of a shop in Trongsa town. Sharon travels to Bhutan regularly to do service work, a domain that is still quite closed in Bhutan. Listen to her story at Service Travel: Two Different Approaches. Lisa refers to the proliferation of phallus symbols a fair amount in her book. As much as I wanted to, I didn’t have the nerve to ask her about them on air. Apparently they’re used to ward off evil spirits.
Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Telluride The Rockies
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Great Rocky Mountain Decks: Spectacular Views Year-Round
Late Summer Fun: The Deck at 9545
Aah, that golden time of year. Yes, it’s quickly approaching—pretty much here in fact. The aspens are beginning to change and the sun is hanging low in the sky, casting long shadows and a flaxen glow on all that meets its warm embrace. We’ve had our first snows already high up on the peaks, sugar frostings that render our glorious autumnal panoramas all the more endearing. To many, this is the best time to be in the Rockies. Leaf peeping really goes off here, more than all those New England fall foliage goers could ever imagine. We’ll be in full splendor within the next couple of weeks.
The Pool Deck at Mountain Lodge Telluride
Partying at The Peaks
I’ve enjoyed a few spectacular decks here in Telluride all summer long: one at 9545, located within the Inn at Lost Creek, the other at the Great Room at The Peaks Resort & Spa, the other at Mountain Lodge Telluride. And it’s my plan to find myself out on them as often as possible during these upcoming weeks, basking in the halcyon days of fall in the Rockies, toasting myself in the Indian Summer warmth of southwestern Colorado. Sunsets here are the best and this being the mountains, these establishments are well-prepared for that chill in the air since a brigade of fireplaces and a battalion of heaters stand at the ready year-round. Yes, these folks know how to warm you up since seizing the great outdoors is really what it’s all about in the Rockies. Come winter, the decks at both 9545, the Great Room and Mountain Lodge abound with winter sports enthusiasts that just can’t get enough of our spectacular mountain views. Fortunately all three restaurants serve libations and food of the finest quality, necessary ingredients for keeping you well-fueled for hours.
Situated within the very heart of Telluride Mountain Village, the deck at 9545 draws a large, stylish crowd on Wednesday evenings throughout summer during the Sunset Concert series. It’s always a happening and I took full advantage of it this summer, showing up almost weekly at this Wednesday evening “mixer.” At the end of the summer, I came by for a celebratory lunch (for my b-day) with a friend and finished off a tasty meal consisting of a Cuban shaved ham and slow-cooked pork sandwich with a side of sweet potato fries. All this was topped off with a tequila chocolate mousse and my first fried Oreo. Truly decadent! And there’s no doubt the whole experience was enhanced tenfold by 9545’s tranquil mountain setting. Doesn’t everything taste better when dining al fresco?
One of Many Views from 9545
Winter Fun at The Peaks Deck
At the Great Room Deck, also located in Telluride Mountain Village, I savored the longest and most stunning sunset of the summer. Ensconced within the cushy banquettes of their expansive deck, laughing and partying with friends, we all ooed and aahed about the transformation of the evening sky for hours. O.K., the sensations might have been augmented by a handful of G & Ts but still, I’ll never forget that moment. And isn’t that what dining (and drinking) affairs are all about? Thankfully we had munched on some excellent apps that carried us well into nightfall. We all sunk farther into the couches to admire the flourish of stars in our clear Colorado sky. No doubt about it—this is where you can savor one of the best sunsets in the West.
All Set for a Blazing Good Time at The View
The pool deck at Mountain Lodge is the envy of most visitors to Telluride. They sail over it in the gondola as they travel from the Mountain Village Market and parking complex to the Village core. And then they pass over it on the way back, forever commenting about the allure of the deep blue pool and hot tub, the stunning lineup of teak tables and chairs, the fun people always seem to be sharing below. Sadly few realize that they, too, can experience this spectacular site—all part of Mountain Lodge’s restaurant and bar, aptly named The View—by popping in for lunch, afternoon drinks or dinner. Yes, indeed, this handsome deck, restaurant and bar is open to everyone in addition to the guests staying at the lodge. From the gondola you see that The View offers stunning vistas of the San Sophia Range, some of the most striking peaks in the region. Sit down and delight in a glass of Cab and one of the best burgers in T-ride. I assure you you’ll pass a moment that you’ll never forget.
Cosseted interiors with blazing fireplaces are a welcome relief on many a foul day and a necessity for most romantic evenings. But there’s nothing like a great deck that offers killer views. Here in Telluride, we’re well served.
9545 Restaurant & Bar at Inn at Lost Creek, 970-728-5678 and 888-601-LOST (5678); open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks.
Great Room Deck at The Peaks Resort & Spa, 970-728-789-6800 and 800-789-2220; open 11 a.m. to sunset. Call ahead to find out about their live entertainment.
The View at Mountain Lodge Telluride, 970-369-5000; open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. in the summer and for breakfast, après-ski and dinner in the winter.
Panorama of Part of the San Sophia Range from The View
Winter Sunset from the Great Room Deck
Check out my story, Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties, to find out about the deck at Avondale at the Westin Beaver Creek, one of the most happening spots in the Vail Valley.
Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping The Rockies: Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping The Rockies
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Peachy Keen on Palisade
The Real Deal: Peaches from Palisade, Colorado
Oh, those Colorado peaches. There’s nothing like them. I heard so much on national news this summer about South Carolina surpassing Georgia (in triple) as the peach capital of the United States, but nary a whisper about Colorado’s peaches. I waited until my recent trip back east—to North Carolina—to fully weigh in on America’s peaches. Well, just as I suspected, the south doesn’t have anything on what we have here in the Rockies. I’m talking about fat, flavorful peaches that explode with juice as soon as you slice into them. True peach enthusiasts bite into them and delight in their sweet nectar, a heavenly liquid that gushes out of your mouth and rolls down your chin until you wipe it off with the back of your hand, leaving only a wide grin behind. Those are our Colorado peaches, mostly from Palisade, a charming little town tucked between the Colorado River and red rocks, just outside of Grand Junction on the western slope.
I’ve been feasting on these peaches ever since I arrived in Colorado nearly ten years ago. I’d zoomed by Palisade many times on the Interstate without ever stopping. This summer though I made it my mission to check out the source of this delectable fruit, the provenance of so much of Colorado’s bounty including grapes, lots of other fine produce and more recently, lavender. Indeed, I discovered an air of Provence in this incredibly hot and arid climate, made lush by a vast array of irrigation systems, some dating back to when the first pioneers settled here about a hundred years ago.
My friend, Fran, and I scouted out the little town of Palisade first off since the day was waning and we wanted to suss out a good place for dinner. The shops were already closed by then, a welcome relief of sorts since we both felt that we could have dropped a bundle at A Peachful Place, a quaint and colorful little shop filled with vintage bric-a-brac and other random treasures. We stood in front of it, peered into its windows and drooled. Then we popped in next door at the Palisade Cafe and Grill to inquire about dinner. When we learned that they only had one piece of peach pie left and that they stopped serving at 8 p.m., we decided to inspect another dining establishment in town, the Red Rose Cafe. A peek in here assured us that we didn’t have to rush and that we’d be able to dine here after eight.
Orchards Backdropped by the Famous Book Cliffs
As much as we were charmed by the quaintness of Palisade—punctuated by wine barrels brimming with flowers—we were especially enamored with the Palisade Fruit & Wine Trail, a country road that winds through the orchards and vineyards. It felt as though we had found Colorado’s own little Napa Valley, albeit more rustic yet to me, just as enchanting in a western sort of way. Just off this bucolic route, we found the Dreamcatcher Bed and Breakfast, our destination for the night. Julie, a retired librarian who claimed her little wedge of paradise here a few years ago, greeted us with the warmth of a blazing Colorado sun. Instantly, Fran and I felt as though we’d landed in a country retreat. Still there was no time for dilly-dallying since this being the country, we knew the restaurants would be shuttered soon enough.
There was no peach pie at the Red Rose Cafe but Fran did seem to enjoy her chicken laden with an almond and peach sauce. I chose something more classic. We ate well although I think we were more taken by the old-fashioned decor and feel of this establishment than what was in our plates. I decided that next time I’d try the Palisade Cafe.
I woke up the next morning to Fran’s chatting with Julie. I often pass on B & Bs since sometimes I find the “closeness” of the B & B experience too invasive. But here with Julie, I felt right at home. So much so, in fact, that I came to breakfast in my pajamas and feasted on her delicious scrambled eggs, fruit of her morning’s tour through her chicken coop. Never had I tasted eggs so fresh. We talked and laughed over coffee and sliced peaches until it became time to move on.
Julie and Her Chickens
We hit a couple of farm stands, stocking up on peaches, peach salsa, peach jam, peach syrup and other homegrown and homespun goods until there was little room left in the car. We were tempted to check in on The Lavender Lady and Friends, a shop on Main Street in Palisade, where we were sure we’d do great damage but refrained.
We were already making our list for the next visit—this was just a reconnaissance trip. Yes, indeed there are many festivals to attend in Palisade beginning with the Lavender Festival in July, the Peach Festival in August and the Colorado Mountain Winefest in September. There are wineries to visit and bicycle rides to be enjoyed. Next time, too, I’ll fill up the car with produce, especially if I get in on the last big harvest of the season.
I’m sure fall is a lovely time in Palisade and I’ve been told that depending on the frost, they have peaches until early October. I might just get that peach pie after all.
A Palisade Tableau
Dream Catcher Bed and Breakfast, 3694 F Road, 970-464-9900
Palisade Cafe & Grill, W Third Street, 970-464-0657; open breakfast, lunch and dinner most days.
Red Rose Cafe, 235 Main Street, 970-464-7673
This year the Colorado Mountain Winefest begins today, September 15 and goes through Sunday, September 18. Go to Palisade Tourism and the Palisade Chamber of Commerce for more information.
Thank you to Jim Cox and Julie Commons for the above photos.
