Art & Culture French Life Hotels Music & Dance Paris Podcasts Restaurants: Art & Culture French Life Hotels Music & Dance Paris Podcasts Restaurants
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Terrance Galenter from Paris Through Expatriate Eyes: An American Bon Vivant
Ahhhhh. April in Paris. It truly is a delightful time for visiting the City of Light. And as Terrance Galenter, emphasizes in my below Travel Fun interview, the month of May is even better.
Terrance, an American that started Paris through Expatriate Eyes ten years ago in California, has been operating from the French capital for the past fours years. He’s your point person in Paree for everything from tours to lodging, restaurant and reading recommendations. “It’s a very small town for a big town,” Terrance says about Paris. And if you make contact with him before or during your Paris stay, he’s sure to make this fabulous city a smaller, more comfortable place for you.
Art & Culture Beauty Fashion & Style Food & Wine Paris Writing & Books: Art & Culture Beauty Fashion & Style Food & Wine Paris Writing & Books
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Drooling Over Pastry Paris
“The fine arts are five in number, namely: painting, sculpture, poetry, music, and architecture, the principal branch of the latter being pastry.”
—Antonin Carême (1783-1833)
The above quote surely served as inspiration for Susan Hochbaum in the creation of her darling book, “Pastry Paris: In Paris, Everything Looks Like Dessert” (The Little Bookroom). A luscious treat, enticing enough to devour in one sitting, “Pastry Paris” takes my vote for the best gift-y book of the season. Lovers of Paris, pastry, history and beauty will savor it like a best-loved dessert.
“It’s hard not to love a city with a pâtisserie on nearly every block, where pastries are sold all day long to People who never get fat.”
This is how Ms. Hochbaum begins “Pastry Paris,” a clever little delight that pleases by its words, photography and design. Who has not been mesmerized by the candy-colored allure and sheer artistry of French pastries? Did you know that most of these masterpieces boast very particular names such as Religieuse, St. Honoré, Paris-Brest and the well-known Eclair? These names—with only occasional variations—are the same throughout all of France, names that have been used in most cases for centuries for the same scrumptious little cakes featured in bakeries like jewels in a showcase.
In “Pastry Paris,” you’ll learn that each pastry possesses its own story, its own special place in la culture générale of France. From Brioche to Madeleine, Ms. Hochbaum tells a tale about all of France’s beloved gâteaux as she takes you along to many of Paris’s most famous pâtisseries and landmark sites along the way. This is one visual stroll through Paris that cannot easily be forgotten.
To be extra special, I suggest you offer “Pastry Paris” with a selection of fine, French pastries.
For now, indulge in this glorious celebration of Paris pastries from Ms. Hochbaum and me by clicking here.
Fashion & Style Girl Talk Paris Shopping: Fashion & Style Girl Talk Paris Shopping
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Reaching Out to Victoria, Paris and Wolff & Descourtis
I’ve been thinking tons about my friend, Victoria Wolff, lately. Perhaps it’s because with the change of seasons I brought out my marvelous collection of scarves and shawls. Silk, cashmere, wool and challis wonders that exude all the charm and sophistication of Paris. My collection of them grew throughout my eleven years in Paris and I know they will be an essential part of my wardrobe until I’m old and grey. Most of these jewel-toned creations come from Wolff & Descourtis, Victoria’s shop in the Galerie Vivienne, a highly-regarded, family-owned textile business dating back to 1875.
Victoria and I had been out of touch for quite some time. I sent her an e-mail a while back but never received a response. (She can be very Old World and I like that!) So I decided to call her in Paris. I had recently heard about Rebtel, a phone service that offers inexpensive calls abroad, so I thought I’d give it a try. It was a snowy Saturday morning here in the Rockies, which made it late in the afternoon in Paris. I figured she’d be at her shop. What a perfect time to call.
She knew it was me as soon as I said “Victoria?” And then it happened, we were instantly connected as though I was chatting right there with her in her shop, something we had done countless times when I was living in Paris. We typically speak French together but this time, Victoria launched into English (her mother is British) and I followed. During my five-minute free test call with Rebtel we covered a wide range of subjects from our personal lives to work. I learned that her parents were still living, people I was always very fond of, but she had suffered a terrible ski accident that had altered her life greatly.
Côté affaires, Victoria explained that her business was doing well, thanks largely to Wolff & Descourtis’s fine reputation and loyal following. Her devoted American clientele continues to show up and buy, although now it’s more like once a year rather than twice. Most of the other boutiques of the glittering Galerie Vivienne are struggling. “It’s very difficult everywhere,” Victoria declared. “And there are already sales,” she continued, something truly amazing in a country that once held sales but twice a year in January and July.
An electronic voice came on to signal that I only had sixty seconds left on my Rebtel test call. “I’ll call you back,” I said to Victoria in a much hurried voice, thinking that we still had so much ground to cover—we hadn’t even talked about our love lives! “Or maybe you have people in the shop?” I suddenly realized.
“Yes, I do, so I should go now,” Victoria replied. “But I promise to be more in touch—I will reply to your e-mail.”
I mumbled something about my blog but thought that that was perhaps futile. Maybe she’ll read this post, maybe not. One thing’s for sure: people, places and goods of quality never go out of style. My friend Victoria has all three.
Wolff & Descourtis, 18 galerie vivienne, 2nd arrondissement Paris; tel.: 01.42.61.80.84; www.galerie-vivienne.com.
Go to Maribeth’s Books and scroll down to read my complete description of Wolff & Descourtis.
Art & Culture Food & Wine French Life French Provinces Girl Talk Paris Podcasts Romance & Relationships Travel: Art & Culture Food & Wine French Life French Provinces Girl Talk Paris Podcasts Romance & Relationships Travel
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Elizabeth Bard Talks About Lunch in Paris, Love and Provence
I don’t think there’s a woman out there that hasn’t dreamed about falling in love in Paris. C’mon, admit it to yourself. See, I told you—I’m sure you’ve allowed just a shred of this fantasy to play out in your head at least once in your life. Many women indulge themselves with full-blown visions of strolling hand-in-hand with a lover alongside the Seine or sharing a tête-à-tête in a cozy French bistrot over a savory coq au vin and a good Bordeaux with the man of her dreams. Others just allow a glimmer of a romance flash through their minds. I bet there are some men (those sensitive types!) that have thought wistfully about love in Paris as well. I may be biased but Paris is surely the most romantic city in the world.
What makes it so? Well, it would take a whole book to divulge that—the decor, the mood, the ambiance, the food and wine. Elizabeth Bard does just that in her book “Lunch in Paris: A Love Story with Recipes.” I found it to be a terrific read. And I know Paris, love and the whole bonne salade of it all. Elizabeth has done a wonderful job at describing the sights and tastes of the moveablefeast that is Paris. (I haven’t yet tried the recipes she shares, but they seem wonderful and quite easy which is actually what most French cooking is all about.) And of course, Elizabeth meets a love, a Frenchman, and we are swept into their lives like a tourist on a fourteen-day European tour. Fortunately she provides many opportunities for us to savor their moment as well.
Listen to what Elizabeth has to say about “Lunch in Paris,” her new life in Provence, her passion for cooking, the French and more in the interview she recorded with me on Travel Fun. Be sure to check out her blog as well for recipes and more about her life in France. Most of all, though, if you’re looking for a love story that takes place in Paris, pick up her book.
Click on the play button below to listen to my interview with Elizabeth Bard.
Paris ‘Palaces’ Controversy: Off with Their Heads!
As I watched the rainbow-colored display of cyclists zoom around the place de la Concorde during last Sunday’s final stage of the Tour de France, I was nagged by only one discouraging thought. No, it had nothing to do with cycling or the fact that an American wasn’t going to make the podium. It was about that grand and imposing building bordering this famous place and how it’s no longer officially considered une palace de Paris. Yes, I’m talking about the renowned Hôtel de Crillon, the place where Queen Elizabeth stayed when she visited Paris many years ago. It’s, in fact, the glorious abode chosen by Lance Armstrong after several Tour finishes when he was at the peak of his reign. It’s sandwiched in between the American Consulate and the Residence of the American Ambassador in Paris. And if you can’t make it to Versailles, have tea here and you’ll have a taste of eighteenth-century French grandeur that will more than satisfy all your senses and sensibilities.
Here’s what I wrote about Les Palaces in my book, “The Riches of Paris: A Shopping and Touring Guide:”
The French have two words for a palace: palais and château. Somehow it seemed fitting, however, to adopt the English word palace in the early 1900s to describe the glorious grand hotels that were then being built in Paris. What began as a marketing move to attract prominent British tourists soon stuck and, today, when one refers to les palaces de Paris, most people know that this includes a select few. Six palatial hotels worthy of being called palace exist today in Paris, and once you step into one you will know why. The historical significance of each is remarkable, but it’s more likely the profound attention to detail of each fine establishment that puts them head and shoulders above the rest of Paris’s splendid hotels. The six include Four Seasons Hôtel George V, Hôtel le Bristol, Hôtel de Crillon, Hôtel Meurice, Hôtel Plaza Athenée Paris and Hôtel Ritz. Even if you don’t plan to spend the night, I wholeheartedly encourage you to stop at one of these bastions of tradition, the crème de la crème of all the world’s hotels. You may breathe in their allure for the price of un café or just a tour around the lobby. Be sure to dress up for the occasion.
Well, the French Government Tourist authorities took the Crillon, the George V and the Ritz off this haute list recently and to that I say merde! Excuse my French, but this is truly ridicule. This unthinkable erreur has the hospitality industry in France in an uproar. And no one has provided a sufficient explanation of any of it. If my opinion, it’s encore de la politique. Here’s a good article to read about all this hubbub.: Iconic Hotels Feel the Snub as High-Class Lodgings Get Palace Rating.
This just confirms something else I wrote about in my Paris book: Be wary of the star ratings with hotels. I’ve found fantastic two-star establishments that in my opinion warrant three stars and four-star establishments that would do well to receive a three-star rating. C’est souvent n’importe quoi. You can tell that all this has my dander up.
I stick by the palace classification I provided above. You go to Paris and see for yourself and you’ll understand why.
Thank you to the Hôtel de Crillon, the Four Seasons George V and Hôtel Ritz for the use of the photos in this story. Photo credit: Eric Cuvillier and others.
Art & Culture Denver Fashion & Style Paris: Art & Culture Denver Fashion & Style Paris
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Yves Saint Laurent Comes to Denver
So long cow town, hello haute couture. Maybe I was a bit ahead of my time moving to Telluride, Colorado from Paris, France. Well, there’s nothing like the combination of natural beauty and sophistication and clearly that dynamic duo is increasingly on the rise here in our magnificent Rocky Mountain state.
Mention of an Yves Saint Laurent exhibit in Denver popped out at me yesterday in a piece in the New York Times about Pierre Bergé. (Read Saint Laurent’s Other Half.) My excitement quickened as I discovered that Denver was selected as the only U.S. city to present the major Yves Saint Laurent Retrospective featuring forty years of this world-renowned designer’s creativity, organized by Monsieur Bergé. It came as no surprise that the show will be hosted by the Denver Art Museum (DAM), one of the most stunning showcases of art and history in our country. The show opens March 25, 2012 and will run through July 7, 2012.
After contacting the museum, I learned that tickets won’t go on sale until 2012 and it’s not known yet whether they’ll be available a couple of weeks or months before the opening. So I suggest you begin checking the DAM Web site toward the beginning of next year. I’ve delighted in experiencing minimal crowds at past temporary exhibitions at the Denver Art Museum, but it’s hard to imagine that this show won’t achieve blockbuster status. Who knows though? Maybe we won’t have to deal with the typical museum crowds of other major metropolitan centers. We are just a bunch of mountain folk after all, n’est-ce pas?
Thank you to the Denver Art Museum and Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Paris/Photo a. Guirkinger for the use of the above image. This short evening ensemble, from haute couture collection Spring-Summer 1988, pays tribute to Vincent Van Gogh. The jacket, embroidered with sequins and pearls, is shown over a green crepe blouse and paired with a purple crepe skirt. I had the pleasure of attending a couple of YSL haute couture shows during the eleven years I lived in Paris, but am not sure whether I saw this beauty on the runway!
French Life French Provinces Paris Podcasts: French Life French Provinces Paris Podcasts
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Bonjour Paris Talks with Bonjour Colorado
Ah, Paree. There’s nothing like Paris. And it’s true, the City of Light can be delightful in April.
But where does one begin? There’s so much to see and do in the French capital. And how about gaining more insight into zee French? I lived there eleven years, have written four shopping and touring guides to Paris and the French provinces, and I’m still looking to inform myself about France and its countrymen. So where do I turn for lots of helpful information and insightful stories about Paris and the French provinces? Why, BonjourParis.com, bien sur.
I interviewed Karen Fawcett, the driving force behind Bonjour Paris, this past fall on my Travel Fun radio show. Listen to our chat below to hear how Bonjour Paris has been the definitive guide to Paris since 1995. And the range and depth of their reporting doesn’t stop with Paris. (Although every bon parisien has believed for centuries that their fair city is the center of the universe. In truth, moi aussi for a while!) Thankfully Bonjour Paris gives the rest of France its due, another reason why this informative Web site has earned a leading presence on the worldwide web for all things French.
Karen is funny and insightful, so don’t miss this opportunity to hear more about this much-loved land from someone truly in-the-know.
Click to play the Bonjour Paris program
Thank you to DaliParis and Karen Fawcett for the above images.
DC Hotels Paris Restaurants Travel: DC Hotels Paris Restaurant Travel
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The Elegance of Paris in Our Nation’s Capital: The Fairfax at Embassy Row
It’s been over a week that the mountain closed here in Telluride and the town has already slowed down to its sleepy off-season mode. Many people have hit the road in search of warmer climates. Others (like me) are using this quiet time to catch up on work that had been shelved during the busy winter season. Fortunately there’s still fun to be had nearby since I just returned from a long weekend of skiing at Beaver Creek and Snowmass. My final spring ski fling will be in Aspen over Easter.
Still I’m feeling the itch to visit cities such as Paris or Washington D.C., two great capitals that are especially resplendent this time of year. I’ve often been to Washington in (late) spring since it’s an easier trip than crossing the Atlantic; and in Paris I’ve lived through nearly a dozen printemps. Flowers bloom bountifully in April in both cities, making spring the perfect season for strolling vast boulevards while crisscrossing in and out of world-renowned museums. This year, due to the disasters in Japan, there was more talk than ever about D.C.’s cherry blossoms, great puffs of beauty that surely provoked more emotion than usual. (I haven’t seen the cherry blossoms in D.C. but I did experience them in all their splendor nearly two decades ago in Kyoto, and I remember them as heartbreakingly beautiful then.)
Both Paris and D.C. humble you year-round by their manicured landscapes and grand and glorious architecture. This stateliness may be considered distinctly Washingtonian or typiquement parisien. Or sometimes a little of both. (As most of us know, it was a Frenchman, Pierre-Charles L’Enfant, appointed by President George Washington in 1791, who designed our capital city.) The history and tradition of Washington D.C. may be more recent than that of Paris but a visit to this glistening beacon along the Potomac still imbues you with the spirit of the past as well as the omnipotent force of the present.
As many of my readers know, I have an affinity toward fine hotels, especially those steeped in history. I love properties that represent a bygone era with exceptional grace and elegance, particularly ones that are just as happening today as when they first opened. I’m talking about destination hotels, places that are worth the trip in and of itself. The Fairfax at Embassy Row ranks as one such establishment in D.C., one that a friend raved on to me about after her visit there last fall. Conveniently located in Dupont Circle within minutes of the capital’s most significant sites, she made The Fairfax her base but made sure to reserve plenty of downtime within its elegant premises throughout her stay.
The Fairfax has been attracting discriminating visitors and prominent dignitaries since its opening in 1927. Just think, people were already flocking to D.C. at that time to witness the heavenly spectacle of the cherry trees festooned with flowers.
The signature restaurant of The Fairfax, The Jockey Club Restaurant & Lounge, opened on the eve of President Kennedy’s inauguration, is also a Washington insider’s favorite. Inspired by New York’s legendary “21,” The Jockey Club attracts lots of local movers and shakers both for its fine cuisine and swanky ambiance. “The venue is like a grand theatre on which we get to produce a memorable play,” states Mark D. Timms, Executive Chef of The Jockey Club. “It’s full of history, charm and class and it reflects that back to our guests,” he continues. Classics such as Steak Tartare and Dover Sole are prepared table side with effortless skill and panache. Other more innovative offerings include a “BLT” tomato soup, made of bacon, heirloom tomatoes, braised lettuce and white cheddar croutons. I’d plan a meal at The Jockey Club just for that! Diners may also order other delectable items such as Chesapeake Bay oysters, braised short ribs and burgers off The Jockey Club Lounge menu.
Hmmmmm. All this talk of food has me back to thinking about Paris. You may just have to do a coin toss to help you decide which destination to book this spring. Check the airfares, too. As for me, I’m staying in Colorado throughout April but will certainly be looking toward D.C., Paris and other more cosmopolitan destinations once I come up for air. Hopefully time will expand to meet my needs.
The Fairfax at Embassy Row and The Jockey Club Restaurant & Lounge, 2100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC, 202-293-2100, www.fairfaxhoteldc.com and www.thejockeyclub-dc.com
Donations to the American Red Cross in support of their disaster relief efforts to help those affected by the earthquake in Japan and tsunami throughout the Pacific may still be made and are most welcome. I just made one myself, in fact (part of my catching up). It’s marvelous to think about the infinite number of big and little things that unite countries, that bring people together all over the world. I find the cherry blossoms to be a wonderful connecting point between Japan and the United States and will continue to conjure up visions of these prolific blooms as I send warm, healing thoughts to the Japanese during their time of need.


























































