Bonjour Colorado

Our Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Named for the chief of the Ute Indians, the little town of Ouray (pronounced your-ay) has become one of my favorite getaway destinations in the Rocky Mountains.  One might argue that this is because it’s only an hour’s drive from Telluride, but its appeal extends far beyond its proximity to my place of residence.  And I’ve hardly partaken in the two activities most associated with Ouray:  ice climbing and jeeping.

I’m drawn to Ouray for its striking natural beauty and the delightful mix of Rocky mountain charm and elegance that most of the town’s establishments exude.  It’s not unheard of to spot a couple of five-pointed bucks crossing Main Street in the middle of the afternoon.  Here the mountains plummet into this National Historic District claiming the unpaved backstreets as its foothills, the main street as its valley floor.  The views are so striking in this boxed canyon that Ouray is often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America, a moniker that you can hardly dispute as you gaze up to the jagged peaks that almost entirely encircle this old mining town where tourism is now king.

My boyfriend, Steve, and I have made it a tradition of sorts to spend a short weekend here at the onset of summer, two years in a row that we’ve both been beguiled by the authentic character of this old mountain town.  No fast foods and not a single stoplight either.  Instead Ouray claims bragging rights to a quaint collection of B & Bs and down-home lodges, a jumble of fun shops and restaurants, world-renowned hot springs and a gorgeous hotel that is itself worth the trip.

The Bodacious Beaumont

O.K., by now you know I love luxury hotels.  Well, I’ve found my bliss at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel & Spa.  Even if you just stop by for a drink on the patio, this hotel is a must in Ouray, a must-see in the Rockies.  The Beaumont is a destination hotel that’s worth going out of your way to experience.  And yes it is likely you’ll have to negotiate your schedule and maybe even some scary mountain roads to find your way to this remote part of Colorado.  But do go.  Once here you’ll experience the full glory of the golden days of mining when grand hotels were erected in remote little towns in order to properly receive the high rolling businessmen of the day.  Built in 1886 during Ouray’s heyday, the Beaumont reopened in 2003 after having undergone a five million-dollar renovation lovingly carried out by Dan and Mary King.  The hotel emerged from a near state of ruin as every detail—from its grand staircase to its flourish of ornate wallpapers—was restored, or exactly replicated, to its original Victorian splendor.  In the hotel’s Tundra Restaurant you’ll be greatly impressed by the beauty of the dining room as well as the food and wine offerings.  (The owner, Dan King, was a former wine merchant.)  Dining in this dimly lighted, dark wood paneled space beneath high ceilings makes me feel as though I’ve landed in an old Scottish castle.

Yes, I do love the Old World and also anything Old World-ish in America as long as its exceedingly well done.  Bulow’s Bistro, also in the Beaumont, is one such example.  Its tiled floor, wrought iron accents, café tables and blackboard writings make me feel as though I’ve just landed in a French bistrot.  Here, too, you can expect a remarkable choice of wines.  It’s so reassuring to know that my French fix is only an hour away.

Outdoor activities reign supreme in Ouray but in truth, I’ve always just spent my time strolling around town, poking into shops and checking out a few of the natural spectacular attractions such as waterfalls, the hot springs, and the peaks, known as The Amphitheater, that encircle town.

The Utes were drawn to healing sources for both therapeutic and spiritual reasons, so it comes as no surprise that these springs were greatly revered by this tribe of native Americans.  Descendants of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Utes, still frequent the original source where these springs flow from the base of the mountain into the Vapor Cave of The Wiesbaden, a lodge where a bathhouse once operated as early as 1879.  Here Steve and I most like to loll in the Lorelei, a private outdoor soaking pool that assures you relaxation, rejuvenation and a near-sacred moment shared with your sweetie in steamy waters.  Best to reserve in advance.

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

From here, I recommend going back to your room, especially if it’s one of the spacious condo-types we once experienced at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs.  Or just flop into a seat at the Main Street Theater to watch the multi-media presentation San Juan Odyssey.  (O.K., maybe you could head out for a libation or a bite to eat as well.)  Narrated by C.W. McCall (of “Convoy” fame) with music by Aaron Copeland and The London Symphony Orchestra, this panoramic presentation takes you into the rugged peaks, the gentle valleys and the high mountain passes of the San Juan Mountains.  You traverse some of the most spectacular terrain of the United States during this thirty-five minute show, embracing nature in all its gentleness and cruelty—from blooming wildflowers to charging avalanches—that so mark this part of the Rockies.

“If it’s there, you’ve got to climb it,” seems to be the motto of visitors and residents alike of this uncompromising land for the past century and a half.  Whether you’re hiking, on a horse or jeeping, people tackle these awe-inspiring peaks with fierce determination and drive.  I was grateful that the San Juan Odyssey transported me to some of the most reputed sites of the region:  Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene and Engineer Pass, Mt. Abrams, all places I hope to venture to some day in person.  But in the meantime, I’m perfectly content to experience them from the comfort of my theater seat after a relaxing soak.

Not surprisingly, the presentation—and perhaps the whole town—had the opposite effect on Steve.  Our usual one-hour drive home turned into a four-hour expedition as Steve pulled off onto Last Dollar Road at the top of Dallas Divide.  We rumbled past the broken down farm which appears in the opening scene of “True Grit” and forged forward onto the less-trammeled part of this old dirt road.  Jostled and shaken in his beat-up Jeep, Steve and I felt like two rancheros out on the trail as “San Antonio Rose” blared from the CD player.  I made sure Steve kept his eyes on the road but we both still marveled at magnificent mountain views from elevations as high as 10,000 feet.

We stopped just long enough to take pictures before approaching our descent into another heavenly mountain town, our beautiful Telluride.  Now let’s be clear about the renowned back roads—most old mining roads—of the San Juans.  We weren’t on Black Bear Road, the infamous course which begins at the summit of Red Mountain (just outside Ouray), passes by Bridal Veil Falls (the highest waterfall in Colorado), ending just beyond in Telluride.  Thank goodness it wasn’t this one-way road where more than one traveler has met his demise.  It was plenty challenging for me, however, just enough to give me a taste of the amazing high country exploration available in this part of the Rockies.

We vowed to go back and do more four wheeling along the area’s famous alpine loop in the fall.  Fortunately I feel confident that such an excursion will include stops at my favorite watering holes and rest stops in Ouray, mostly because Steve’s grown attached to them as well.  It’s nice to have more than one magical mountain town to call your own.

Beaumont Hotel & Spa, 505 Main Street, 888-447-3255 and 970-325-7000, 970-325-7050 (Bulow’s Bistro), 970-325-7040 (Tundra Restaurant), BeaumontHotel.com

The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings, Corner of 6th Avenue & 5th Street, 970-325-4347, WiesbadenHotSprings.com

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, 45 Third Avenue, 800-327-5080 or 970-325-4981, BoxCanyonOuray.com

San Juan Odyssey, 630 Main Street, 970-325-4940; best to call for show times.

Other Ouray Favorites

Ouray Hot Springs Pool, 970-325-7073

Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee, 520 Main Street, 970-325-7285, MousesChocolates.com

Rockin P Ranch, 512 Main Street, 970-325-0434, RockinPRanch.com

Buckskin Booksellers, 505 Main Street, 970-325-4044, BuckskinBooksellers.com; open 365 days a year!

Best to check opening days and hours with most Ouray establishments since business is very seasonal.

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties

Style-y Dining at Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass

What does it mean to stay in a green hotel? In the case of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain and the Viceroy Snowmass, it means stepping into a swanky world where sustainable luxury reigns supreme. I stayed at these two stunning resorts this past off-season and was highly impressed by their look and commitment to preserving the environment.

While on the premises I observed a certain amount of sustainable practices on my own, but I yearned to find out more. I posed the question “What makes a hotel green?” to Jeffery Burrel, Director of Operations of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa, and to Jeff David, General Manager of the Viceroy Snowmass, in a recent Travel Fun interview and was interested to hear about what goes into the development and operations of a sustainable property.  And I bet you will, too.  Here’s a short list of the environmentally-conscious building strategies and operational practices implemented in these and most other LEED-certified properties:

-Many of the building materials are sourced locally.  Expect lots of rich stonework and other natural elements.

-Some of the building materials come from post consumer/industrial recycled content.  The roof of The Westin Riverfront, for example, is made of recycled automobile tires.

-Lots of glass, made up of high-performance windows, assure sweeping views.

-Low and non-emitting paints, adhesives and carpets are utilized throughout to ensure healthy indoor air quality.

-Much of the resort’s electricity comes from renewable sources.

-Low-flow fixtures help to conserve water.

-High efficiency appliances are used in the kitchens.

-Housekeeping products tend to be non-toxic and non-allergenic.

In addition to the above, each resort implements a variety of other green-oriented practices.  At The Westin Riverfront I particularly appreciated the recycling bins in the kitchen and their huge emphasis on fitness.  ”We have more health and wellness space than banquet space,” says Jeffery Burrell.  Indeed I was totally won over by their outdoor saline lap pool which to me, is better than swimming in the ocean. (There’s no black line in the ocean.  And if you’re a serious swimmer, you want the black line.)  You can bet, too, that their saline natatorium is far better for your health and wellness than swimming in most chlorine-saturated pools.

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa

At the Viceroy Snowmass, I noticed that the kitchen appliances were unplugged on a daily basis, a smart practice that I’ve since adopted at home.  This was also the first hotel where I found 16-ounce bottles of amenities in the bathroom.  What a great idea! (See below for more of my thoughts on hotel amenities.)

Don’t for a moment think that cutting-edge and down-to-earth are mutually exclusive in either of these resorts.  At both The Westin Riverfront and the Viceroy Snowmass, I was especially impressed by their friendly and efficient service.  I also liked their many little touches such as the aluminum water bottle presented to you upon arrival at the Viceroy and the employee name tags stating each person’s passion at The Westin. Both of these features—especially the name tags—provide nice opportunities to engage warmly with the hotel staff.

And best of all, each of these resorts boast outstanding spas and restaurants that you can enjoy even if you’re not a guest of the hotel.  In fact both the Restaurant Avondale at The Westin Riverfront and Eight K Restaurant at the Viceroy Snowmass are immensely popular with the locals.  As for their spas, zen and nature have never come together in such a sensuous manner in both of these healing spaces.

The Plunge Pool at the Viceroy Snowmass

Click on the play button below to hear more about these great properties and green hotels in general.

Friday Afternoon Summer Scene at the Avondale Deck

Summer Highlights

Definitely take in the FAC (Friday Afternoon Club) at Avondale at The Westin Riverfront.  It’s the happening place in Beaver Creek and the whole Vail Valley where people come to enjoy the restaurant’s expansive, south-facing deck, the beautiful mountain views and the sizzling vibe.

This is the first summer that the Elk Camp Gondola in Snowmass is running.  What a great way to be whisked from base camp to tons of hiking, biking, wildflower viewing, free concerts and more.

Summer Sailing in Snowmass

Breaking My Addiction to Mini Potions and Lotions

If you read some of my recent posts, you’ll learn that I’m swearing myself off of plastic.  (Or at least greatly minimizing it in my life.)  Shortly after this declaration, I realized that that meant I’d have to give up on amassing most of the in-room hotel amenities that came to be a treasured part of many of my hotel stays. Yes, I admit I was one of those persons that would hoard shampoos, conditioners, bath gels, cotton swabs, shower caps, shoe cleaners, you name it.  I would piggishly stash them in my suitcase on a daily basis so that housekeeping would leave behind a fresh supply.  I have a collection of minis that take up a huge storage bin beneath my bathroom sink. My hunny, Steve Togni, G.M. of the Mountain Lodge in Telluride, swears that all these hotel amenities are of inferior quality in any event.  I ignore him and relish my supply of goods, many of which bear the name of renowned brands of beauty products such as Floris or of hotels such as La Mamounia in Marocco.  Sometimes as in the case of many fine French hotels, I’ve been lucky enough to collect miniatures that boast both a big name brand and a big name hotel.

These little take-aways have been my precious souvenirs for decades to be used parsimoniously at home (or even gifted to others!) like treasured tchotchkes from a faraway land.  But from now on they will no longer be a part of my travel experience.  I will no longer perpetuate this addiction to plastic.  (Worst of all, many of these products are not packaged in recyclable containers.)  Ugh, such is the price of consciousness.

And then just two weeks after having sworn myself off of hotel amenities don’t I find an assortment of BeeKind products, a collection of Gilchrist & Soames environmentally-friendly in-room amenities, gracing the edge of the vanity at the Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, a down-home styled hotel in nearby Ouray, Colorado where Steve and I experienced a little getaway.  We read the labels on these paper bottles, looked at each other approvingly, smiled, grabbed a couple each and tucked them into our bags.

I think we’ll do just fine with this shift to green travel after all.

Thank you to Jeremy Swanson for the photo of the Aspen/Snowmass gondola.

Great Deals for Public Radio: Winter 2010

It’s winter fundraising at KOTO, one of the few entirely community-supported radio stations in the country. It has been six years that I have been doing my Travel Fun talk show on KOTO, a program that has allowed me to deepen my ties with Telluride and to forge travel connections with a variety of people and places all over the world. I’m thrilled to be a part of such a family!

As in recent fundraising campaigns, I’ve obtained some very exciting premiums that you can win in exchange for a pledge to KOTO.  Fellow D.J. Chuck Burr has helped me with these efforts and together we have pulled together a show that will surely tantalize your trip planning ponderings.  Tune in today at 6:20 p.m. mountain time to this special live program at KOTO.org.  Here’s a preview of what we’re offering:

Ashland, Oregon Package

Chuck lives most of the time in this lovely northwestern destination.  He’ll be talking about Ashland’s allure and why its stunning scenery and charming town are worth checking out.  This package includes a two-night stay at Ashland’s Black Swan Inn, a soak for two at Chozu Bath and Tea Gardens and two tickets to the renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival, one of the oldest and largest professional nonprofit theaters in the country.  The value of this package is $420.; it can be yours for a pledge in the amount of $250.

Telluride Temptations

Rustic Elegance/$200. pledge: Two nights in a one-bedroom condo at the handsome Mountain Lodge in Telluride. Approximate value:  $500.-750.

Valentine’s Day Treatment/$100. pledge: Delight in an organic Belgian chocolate and Kona coffee scrub, followed by a luxurious massage with organic dark chocolate body butter, valued at $189., at The Himmel Spa at The Fairmont Heritage Place Franz Klammer Lodge.  That sounds like ninety minutes of yum, yum to me. Read about my take on this charming spa here.

Exciting Dining Experience/$75. pledge: Receive a $100. gift certificate to the new Palmyra restaurant at The Peaks Resort & Spa.

Perfect Turns/$75. pledge:  Join an adult group lesson, valued at $130., at Telluride’s most awesome Ski & Snowboard School.

Magnificent Massage/$75. pledge: A ninety-minute massage, valued at $150., with Darren Miller, from Rolling Relaxation Massage, to be provided at Mountain Lodge Telluride.  You may contact Darren at 970-369-5193, 303-257-6070 and rollingrelaxation@hotmail.com.  Read more about this expert healer here.

Rosa Lea and Jackson from Salon 7

Lady’s Locks/$35. pledge: A woman’s haircut, valued at $50., by Rosa Lea at Salon 7, my favorite stylist in town.  You can reach Rosa Lea at 970-708-1266 and rosalea_davis@hotmail.com.  I also wrote about her here.

Peaks Pampering/$30. pledge: Receive a Spa Access Day Pass to The Peaks Spa.  Four passes have been donated.  Approximate value:  $45. each.  Read more about The Peaks Spa here.

Voulez-Vous/$30. pledge: A one-hour French lesson, valued at $50., avec moi! Go to my About page to learn more about me.

Gorgeous Guy/$20. pledge:  A man’s haircut, valued at $30., by Rosa Lea at Salon 7.  (See contact info. above.)

Some Original Ideas

Your Own Tour Guide/$30. pledge: As the author of four books on France, I know a fair amount about Paris and the provinces. This pledge, valued at $50., will grant you a one-hour travel consultation with me on Paris and/or the French provinces.

Blah-Blah Blog/$100. pledge: You, your product or service (or maybe all three) get to star in one of my many postings at BonjourColorado.com.  Approximate Value: Priceless.  Let me spin you and/or your goods into a fun story!

Please note that certain restrictions may apply.  All pledges will be taken on a first-come basis.

Call the studio (970-728-4333) as of 6:25 p.m. mountain time today to make a pledge for any of the above offers.  You may also write me a note on my Contact Page.

Thank you to the above individuals and establishments for your geneous donations.  I encourage my readers to support these fine businesses.  Thanks to all for showing your love for Telluride’s unique public radio station!

Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas

Capella Spa Telluride: Better Than What the Romans Could Imagine

Hmmmm. There’s nothing like spa-going after a day in the mountains. Whether you’ve been out skiing, hiking or just wandering around taking in the sites, a visit to a spa in the mountains seems so much more deserved, so much more of a must. Maybe it’s the contrast of the rugged scenery and the high altitude sun with the soothing interiors of such cosseted spaces.  At elevations of close to 10,000 feet, the spa experience is indisputably enhanced tenfold. And if you’re lucky enough to find yourself sitting in a heated pool or a hot tub with snowflakes falling gently down around you, you’ll truly understand why spas and mountain destinations go together like robes and slippers. (My favorite visual is one of steam billowing up from outdoor heated pools and tubs, a common occurrence throughout winter and most summer evenings at spas in the mountains. When you’re in the middle of that misty scene, you can’t help feeling otherworldly.)

In Telluride, we’re truly spoiled. Maybe it’s because our mountains are so mighty that we boast such heavenly spas, super luxurious enclaves housed within the finest hotels of Telluride Mountain Village, the heart of the ski area. The little known secret is that you can enjoy these superlative spas for the price of a treatment or in some cases a day pass: Access to them is not reserved exclusively for their hotel guests.

Indoor or Outdoor at The Peaks? Why Not Both?

I wasn’t in Telluride long before I descended upon the Spa at The Peaks Resort, by far the largest and most impressive of all the Telluride spas. (Actually the Spa at The Peaks Resort ranks as one of the finest in the Rockies—-even in the country. It’s consistently the recipient of many recognitions including Spa Finder magazine’s 2009 Reader’s Choice Award in Best for Winter Sports.) Magnificent panoramic views of some of the most spectacular mountains of the Rockies grab you here, so much so, in fact, that even the locals that frequent this vast facility delight in the vistas provided at The Peaks.

I’m a black liner—that’s to say I love doing laps, swimming end to end, entirely transfixed on the black line at the bottom of the pool. This is what draws me to the Spa at The Peaks on a somewhat regular basis and when I’m there I also love reveling in their many relaxation options from lounging poolside (indoor and outdoor) to soaking up the heat in the sauna and in the steam. Their fitness room—outfitted in the finest state-of-the-art equipment—has unfortunately eluded me so far. I took a yoga class there once—just the antidote for too many days of skiing—but I have not made it back to anymore of those wonderful sessions nor the pilates and spinning they offer either. I guess I’m just part fish, yet some day soon I’ll give the rest more of a try. Oh, how I envy the tourists that come here and don’t have to worry about trotting back to their desks.

The Coed Sauna at The Peaks: The Place to Go After the Pool with Your Hunny Of Course

I’ve had a number of treatments at the Spa at The Peaks over the years and certainly my spray tanning session ranks among the most memorable. The others have all been incredibly relaxing and healing. Perched at some 9,500 feet, many of the treatments here focus on the restoration and nourishment of your skin; indeed you’ll find some of the best skincare products and estheticians in the country nestled in to this sunny mountain spa. I experienced an ISUN facial recently, one of the newer additions to the spa’s menu of treatments. A seemingly endless variety of these 100% organic skincare products were expertly applied for the cleansing, exfoliation and hydration of my skin. The aromatherapeutic benefits were extraordinary and afterward my skin felt revitalized, moist and fresh. Concocted in our own backyard, not far from Telluride, these nationally-recognized ISUN products, are on sale in The Peaks Spa Boutique along with a bundle of other spa goods including workout clothing and scented candles.

One of Many Fireplaces to Choose from at The Himmel Spa at The Franz Klammer Lodge

If you’re looking for a cozier, more European-inspired setting, book an appointment at The Himmel Spa at The Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge. I love the warm, wood, chalet-inspired décor here. Be sure to leave plenty of time to enjoy the spa’s indoor and outdoor hot tubs. And I suggest you sit and sip a cup of tea at the snuggly fireplace nook located at the Lodge’s reception area. That’s truly Old World elegance at its finest. The massage therapists here—especially Darren and Marianne—are among the best. For further relaxation and revitalization, add an Oxygen Service to your treatment. I found it lovely to sit and breathe in copious amounts of O2 before my massage, but you can also enjoy supplemental oxygen throughout your whole treatment. Wow, that’s what I call mountain therapy! Leave time to shop for a wide range of healing therapies and fun togs in The Himmel Spa Boutique.

Soaking and Shopping at The Himmel Spa

Envelope yourself in earth-toned luxury at the Capella Spa, the newest addition to Telluride’s bastions of beautification and well being. The look here is one of subdued elegance, just like the Capella Hotel and Resort itself. It will surely make you want to speak in hushed tones and tiptoe around their indoor pool. I’m dreaming of savoring a cinnamon-dusted hot chocolate, sitting in my robe and slippers on their outside deck overlooking the slopes.

Spa Treatment Suite at Capella Spa, Fabuleux!

As for the Capella Spa services, know that most of the dimly-lighted treatment rooms boast a private steam shower. Truly this is an establishment that prioritizes intimacy and supreme relaxation. Looking for something that is the ultimate après ski experience? Try a Fire and Ice Pedicure. Your feet will love you. The combination of hot stone massage, cooling menthol lotion and warm booties will set you right for another fantastic day on the slopes. These special shea butter booties are sold in their spa boutique along with an array of other up-to-the-minute products including vegan nail polishes, paraben-free creams, yoga mats and lots of other irresistible treats.

Shopping for the Holidays and a Brand New You for 2010 at Capella Spa Boutique

Have I convinced you yet? Spa-going in the mountains is truly the best. It’s so good that I suggest you set aside at least a few hours to fully benefit from all that is offered. Soaking and shopping alone takes over an hour! It’s all so good that you might even want to take a day off from your mountain activities to fully enjoy it all. Just don’t say I said so.

The Peaks Resort & Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, 970-728-6800, www.thepeaksresort.com

Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge, 567 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-728-3318 and 888-728-3318, www.fairmont.com/klammerlodge

Capella Telluride, 568 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-369-0880, www.capellatelluride.com

Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Baltimore

Historic Fell's Point

When my boyfriend, Steve, asked me to accompany him to his brother’s wedding on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I didn’t expect that the trip would grow into such a big travel week (actually more like ten days).  But I should have known that that would be the case since the travel writer in me itched for new experiences and, of course, it takes more doing than one flight to reach the Outer Banks from Telluride.  It’s rare that I can go to a place and just BE; instead I seek to live it fully, gathering all kinds of information along the way, jotting down notes, doing what I can to find the story.

We flew from Denver to Baltimore and since I had never visited this major hub, I decided it was a must-see.  It did not disappoint me in the slightest.  We stayed our first night together on the east coast at The Admiral Fell Inn, a historic property on Fell’s Point, Baltimore’s original port and Maryland’s first National Historic District.  (The area was spared destruction in the late sixties after a grassroots effort prevented construction of a highway plumb through this now happening neighborhood.  Can you imagine?)

Once dominated by ship building and commerce, today Fell’s Point is a charming harbor side district characterized by centuries-old buildings, eclectic shops, lively taverns and cobbled streets made from bricks of granite used for ship ballast.  Goods once flowed through the wharves and warehouses of Fell’s Point with as many as eighteen shipyards operating in the area, building hundreds of vessels.  Many of these structures have recently been converted into fun spaces for people to live and play; others, such as the taverns, have existed for ages.  

The Admiral Fell Inn

The Admiral Fell Inn, named after Edward Fell, one of Baltimore’s earliest developers, is comprised of eight adjoining buildings, some dating back as far as the 1760s.  Colonel Fell never was awarded the naval designation of Admiral but he did do much to gentrify this land from which sprung some of the most famous shipyards of the world.  His wife, Ann, brought British flavor to “The Point” by naming many of the streets after the most renowned in London including Bond, Fleet and Thames. 

Steve and I settled ourselves into our corner room at the inn, flew open the windows and breathed in the dewy, coastal air.  I had already commented several times by now how my skin and hair felt so incredibly soft, a refreshing change from the extreme dryness of the Rockies.  It was Friday night, dark by now and the streets were filling up below with locals and visitors alike.  We could have been two sailors on leave.  Steve brought up a couple of beers from the bar below and we toasted our arrival into the New World.  We already felt light years away from the mountains.  

The drizzle outside accentuated the distinctly Londonian feel of Fell’s Point.  We strolled hand and hand out along the wharf to take a look at the harbor, our first time together at the sea (well not exactly the sea, but close enough for two landlocked people such as ourselves).  The place and the spot couldn’t have felt more special to us.  It was delightful to see an historic area that so fully retained its charm, a highly attractive place of interest that hasn’t been all built out and marred with chain stores and sprawling food emporiums.  

We just needed to determine which one of Fell’s Point’s authentic taverns would be our best bet for our one night out in Baltimore.  Good crab cakes would, of course, be the determining factor, so we set out inquiring here and there, in search of the best recommendation.  Duda’s Tavern won out unanimously and although I didn’t much watch “Cheers,” I imagined it could easily be compared to this renowned Boston bar, only this sixty-year old establishment appeared smaller, more intimate and certainly far better known for its tasty eats.  It fit the low-ceilinged model of the surrounding taverns and like the others, proudly displayed its love of sports and beer, providing considerable options for the former, countless for the latter including close to one hundred kinds of bottled and draft beer.  ESPN competed with Bon Jovi and although I’m not much of a sports enthusiast, I embraced the scene like a Ravens fan on opening day.

Steve introduced me to steamed shrimp seasoned with Old Bay, another first for me and the perfect accompaniment to our frosty beers.  Crab cakes served with homemade potato salad and cold chunk crab presented in a martini glass with a side of drawn butter followed.  The combination of cold crab and warm melted butter did little for me, however, the meaty crab cakes were some of the best I ever tasted.  No breading here, just plump crab lightly seasoned and baked to a golden brown.

Afterward we strolled along Thames Street, poking our heads into more bars and checking out shops such as The Sound Garden where Steve picked up a bunch of hard-to-find CDs and where we both enjoyed rummaging around.  By now the bar scene was going off and all kinds of music emanated from within the neighborhood’s jumble of hangouts.  

Folded into the couches of the lounge at Meli, the newly installed restaurant/bar, downstairs from our hotel, we ordered one glass of bubbly and a fruit tart.  Our soirée was finished off en élégance, serenaded by a female jazz vocalist that would make Billy Holiday proud.  

We loved the fact that we could sleep with the windows wide open on this balmy night of mid September.  (The windows had long been shut at night back in the mountains where the thermometer was already flirting with the freezing point.)  We were lulled to sleep by the sound of cars rumbling on cobblestones and rock and roll resounding from the bar below.  Or was that the echo of passing carriages and bawdy sailors that rang in our ears?  The friendly folks at the front desk of the inn told us about the legendary spirits that reside within the premises the next day, but we had no encounters with them during our stay at the inn.  Or maybe we did after all?

The Inn's Lobby and Front Desk

Breakfast on Saturday couldn’t have been more enjoyable.  We returned to Meli and sat on stools perched within their bright, contemporary decor facing the brick facades along Thames Street.  Steve had a crab omelette dressed with beurre blanc that I’m still talking about, an exquisite creation modestly priced at $6.95.

After having shopped for rich and exotic honeys at the Meli boutique (meli means honey in Greek), I spent the next couple of hours exploring while Steve headed off to visit family.  My research lead me to Harbor East a few blocks from Fell’s Point where old industrial buildings are being converted into hip hangouts.  Spa Santé is one such place, and here I relished a rare treat:  a manicure.  I have pedicures a plenty but rarely manicures, mostly since I like to keep my nails filed down for quick and easy typing.  I do love to check out spas when I’m traveling though, so this bit of pampering seemed to make the most sense.  Richard, a longtime local and a skilled cosmetologist, took care of me and we chatted lots about the evolution of the neighborhoods in a town that he clearly loves.  “Harbor East has more of a West Village feel,” he said.  “Fell’s Point, too.”  And then I remembered what a friend from the West Village said about gay men gentrifying neighborhoods.  

“Yes, I thought I spotted some smartly dressed gay men around town last night,” I added.  Harbor East, like the West Village, was certainly benefiting from their creative flair.  

I met my brother, Frank, for lunch at Sabatino’s one of the better known restaurants in Little Italy, another neighborhood adjacent to Fell’s Point.  We feasted over homemade ravioli and Chianti in this large restaurant that seemed little changed since Frank Sinatra’s heydey.  The smell of garlic wafted in the air and although sparsely populated, the other diners dispersed throughout the various rooms of this old establishment seemed to be enjoying their meals as much as we delighted in ours.  

From here we drove to Federal Hill, another area punctuated by Baltimore’s famed row houses, only here they’re grander and far more historic than the ones in Little Italy.  “Lots of yuppies have moved into Federal Hill over the past thirty years,” Richard told me.  From atop the hill you have a great view of the inner harbor, yet most of the old homes at the base of the hill don’t benefit from such vistas.  

Frank lives in D.C., and like many residents of our nation’s Capitol, he spends a fair amount of leisure time museum going.  In Baltimore, he was eager to introduce me to the American Visionary Art Museum, one of the top-ranked museums in the country.  This is America’s official national museum and education center for the best in intuitive and original, self-taught artistry.  The over-sized, kinetic sculptures outside of the museum intrigued me and it only got better inside.  When I told someone I encountered in my travels that I was going to this museum, I found the commentary to be quite interesting.  “Lots of crazies have done the artwork there.”  Hmmmm.  Of course I thought of Van Gogh and other creative types that were considered mentally ill.  I think a certain amount of craziness does need to occur during the creative process. I’d go so far as to say that I can be pretty off kilter from time to time.  

But the nuttiness is really full on at the American Visionary Art Museum.  In most cases, the artist’s neuroses are openly revealed.  The day we were there they were showcasing an exhibition on OCD, called Obsessive Compulsive Delight.  Frank and I stood in awe before creations made from prolific doodling and collections of thrift (also known as hoarding) that had been assembled into masterful works.  When you’re a little out there, the mind gives free rein to the hand.  I’ll have to remember that the next time I begin a story.

The museum’s gift shop features an Ali Baba’s cave of collectibles of all kinds including books, games, jewelry, artwork and more.

I found this to be a wonderful way to wind up my stay in Baltimore, a traditional kind of town that also distinguishes itself by a multitude of innovative facets.  Frank and I had originally planned to take the water taxi from Fell’s Point to Harbor Place, but exploring a couple of other neighborhoods together provided much more of a local experience.  Plus it’s always nice to save something for next time, isn’t it?

The Admiral Fell Inn, 888 South Broadway, 410-539-2000, www.harbormagic.com/AdmiralFell

Duda’s Tavern, 1600 Thames Street, 410-276-9719

The Sound Garden, 1616 Thames Street, 410-563-9011, www.cdjoint.com

Meli, 1636 Thames Street, 410-534-6354, www.kalismeli.com

Spa Santé, 1429 Aliceanna Street, Suite 100, 410-534-0009, www.spasantebaltimore.com

Sabatino’s Italian Restaurant, 901 Fawn Street, 410-727-9414, www.sabatinos.com

American Visionary Art Museum, 800 Key Highway, 410-244-1900, www.avam.org

More Recommendations from My Charming Friends at Spa Santé

Pazo, 1425 Aliceanna Street, 410-534-7296, www.pazorestaurant.com; an immense, ultra-hip bar and restaurant done up in a nouveau Mediterranean decor.  You just might run into Michael Phelps here!

One-Eyed Mike’s, 708 South Bond Street, 410-327-0445, www.oneeyedmikes.com; a Grand Marnier Club in Fell’s Point, but of course!

Blue Moon Café, 1621 Aliceanna Street, 410-522-3940; a great place for breakfast but be prepared for a bit of a wait.

And One Great Venue that Frank and I Discovered

The 8 X 10, 10 E. Cross Street, 410-625-2000, www.the8×10.com; Baltimore’s hot spot for great music