Bonjour Colorado

Mountain Glam

Rita Styling a Queen B

We’re in the throes of monsoon season right now and this year the rains seem to be bigger than ever. The sun shines brightly most mornings but the clouds move in in the afternoon and when that happens, you better be back from your hike by then. Or else, ka boom!

Yes, most do hike or bike here in Colorado, visitors included. And in the winter we ski. It really is all about the great outdoors. Don’t you know that Coloradans are the fittest people in the country?

But don’t let all this outdoor life fool you. Many of the women here—especially in our smart mountain towns—are incredibly sophisticated and know how to pull off casual chic with (seemingly) the utmost of ease. Like in France, the look here is totally au naturel. The trick, however, is that it takes just the right approach to achieve a fresh-faced natural look, especially when the air is so dry that crevices as big as a mountain ravine can easily form on your face. As for hair, you need to find a cut that accommodates limp and lifeless because without much humidity, you can bet your coif isn’t going to boast much bounce.

And how do you feel about hat hair? Now, that’s clearly a place French women don’t want to go. No matter how cold it is outside, most French women (actually men, too) don’t dare mess up their hairstyles by wearing a hat, especially a snug-fitting knit one, pretty much the only type that will truly keep you warm. Stylish chapeaux are still quite acceptable yet few of them provide any real warmth. Here in Colorado we suffer from hat hair practically year-round. (It’s not unusual to wear a down jacket and a knit hat on a summer’s night. Few sundresses and sandals after sundown unless you pile on a plush fleece.)

We could easily look like a bunch of tired, flat-haired mountain women if we didn’t learn how to combat the elements with our best defense: a good hair cut and color and dewy makeup. Like everyone else, I sometimes get stuck in a rut and find myself doing my hair and makeup pretty much the same way I’ve done it for decades. This is why I occasionally mix it up, try a different stylist and then even have my makeup professionally applied, all out of necessity and fun.

I was carried through the winter by a color and cut I received from Kat at The Peaks Resort & Spa Salon here in Telluride. She deftly cut my short to mid-length hair in cascading layers so that it would fluff around my face, hat on or off. We went dark with the color since my hair gets so bleached out on the slopes in the winter. (You want to be sure to have nice tufts of hair sticking out of your hat to frame your face, but boy do they get damaged.)

We completed my re-do with a makeup application that as Kat said, “Looked as though we had made unnoticeable efforts toward beauty.” Truly I glowed and I was not surprised to learn that the Jane Iredale makeup she used is entirely mineral based since it made my skin feel silky smooth. It also rendered my face nearly flawless! This makeup redefines the expression “keep it simple” since it’s a foundation, concealer, powder and sunscreen all in one. Quench and sunscreen? That’s pretty hard to find, particularly in a palette of such natural colors. What a great high altitude brand.

Jane Iredale's Earthy Tones

Almost unbelievably, that cut and color carried me through until the end of ski season when I finally paid a visit to Queen B Salon in Aspen. With the motto “Every Woman a Queen,” I felt right at home. Rita, the owner, an attractive woman of un certain age, has undoubtedly seen a few queen bees in the forty-five years she’s been doing hair. But why not indulge us? And here, amongst an extraordinary collection of tiaras, beauteous baubles and other fun girly goods, that’s exactly what Rita does. Plus she knows how to do hair. She gave me a color and cut that got rid of my chewed up ends from ski season and transformed me into a more style-y babe. She decided to go with an edgy look, flat ironed my hair and smoothed out the ends with oil. (Now that’s a woman who knows the challenges of a dry climate.) I bought my first flat iron here and chuckled to myself that I can get this effect by donning a ski cap for an hour although unfortunately that doesn’t guarantee even flat distribution from end to end.

“Any particular look right now in Aspen?” I asked Rita.

“Most women have long hair,” she responded. “Blond. It gets really boring.”

I looked around the room and spotted a supply of hair extensions, hair pieces and clips. Rita explained that all the add-ons were made of natural hair of the finest quality. Mostly blond of course. I’m an anomaly here in the Rockies, I suppose.

“The problem with American men is that they’re so attached to long hair. They want all their women to look like cheerleaders,” Rita continued.

Clearly I had become Europeanized with my brunette bob.

I doubt her complaints were heartfelt though since this so-called ingenue look surely keeps her business churning. I began to think of all the highlights and hair extensions required to achieve that natural, outdoorsy look so prized in the mountains. Add to that the already excessive need for conditioning treatments and a variety of other potions and formulas, and you begin to understand that it takes beaucoup bucks to become naturally beautiful in the Rockies.

Next stop: The Cos Bar, the place to shop for makeup and beauty products in Aspen. It’s perhaps the best place in Colorado. Located in some thirteen chichi destinations across the U.S., Cos Bar actually originated in Aspen in 1976. Indeed this glam emporium reminds me of the many high-styled parfumeries you find throughout France where you can pick up everything from a bottle of Chanel No. 5 to a tube of Dior lipstick.

I settled in for a full makeup application. (Typically the girls here only make you up partially, let’s say to try out a particular look on your eyes. But I asked for the works. Hey, it was almost off season.) I walked out with a luscious, lightly made up look. For best results, pick up a Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, one of Cos Bar’s bestsellers, Aspenites’ secret weapon that comes in eight shades.  If you’re looking for a more striking look for evening, you’ll also find it here since the ladies in this town get pretty dolled up once the sun goes down.

So here I am now, back in my living room, sitting on my couch with my MacAir on my lap, writing. I still don’t understand why my skin and hair don’t feel softer with all these monsoonal rains. The humidity is at 40%, but I suspect that pales to what saturates the rest of the country these days. My tan is fading so fast that soon I’ll look like a mountain dumpling. I’m contemplating a trip to The Peaks for a spray tan. Like a good mountain spa, they know how to give you a natural summer radiance. I’m also thinking the sales should be pretty good in their Spa Boutique right now. They always have sales actually—on the best of products.

I’ve just realized that I’ve lived good chunks of my life in two lands fairly obsessed with beauty: France and the Rocky Mountains. You wouldn’t guess that of the latter but believe me, looking good is pretty important here. Being tanned and fit is part of the way of life in Colorado. And it’s no secret you must have the right hair and make up to go with this look. If you don’t, you look like a tourist. And no one wants to look like that, even if you are one. Don’t you agree?

The Peaks Resort & Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, Telluride, 800-772-5482, ThePeaksResort.com/spa

Queen B Salon, 112 South Mill Street, Aspen, 970-920-4300, QueenBSalon.com

The Cos Bar, 309 South Galena Street, Aspen, 970-925-6249, CosBar.com

The Peaks Spa Boutique

My number #1 make up tip: Do not wear make up when you’re skiing, hiking, biking or doing anything else in the great Rocky Mountains. If you do, you’ll look completely out-of-place. Tinted moisturizer (and sunscreen) as well as lip gloss on these athletic occasions are more than O.K. If you’re like me, you may want to cheat by leaving your mascara and liner on from the night before. A little smudged eye enhancement not only looks natural, but oh-so sexy, too. We are after all resourceful here in the mountains.

Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas

Capella Spa Telluride: Better Than What the Romans Could Imagine

Hmmmm. There’s nothing like spa-going after a day in the mountains. Whether you’ve been out skiing, hiking or just wandering around taking in the sites, a visit to a spa in the mountains seems so much more deserved, so much more of a must. Maybe it’s the contrast of the rugged scenery and the high altitude sun with the soothing interiors of such cosseted spaces.  At elevations of close to 10,000 feet, the spa experience is indisputably enhanced tenfold. And if you’re lucky enough to find yourself sitting in a heated pool or a hot tub with snowflakes falling gently down around you, you’ll truly understand why spas and mountain destinations go together like robes and slippers. (My favorite visual is one of steam billowing up from outdoor heated pools and tubs, a common occurrence throughout winter and most summer evenings at spas in the mountains. When you’re in the middle of that misty scene, you can’t help feeling otherworldly.)

In Telluride, we’re truly spoiled. Maybe it’s because our mountains are so mighty that we boast such heavenly spas, super luxurious enclaves housed within the finest hotels of Telluride Mountain Village, the heart of the ski area. The little known secret is that you can enjoy these superlative spas for the price of a treatment or in some cases a day pass: Access to them is not reserved exclusively for their hotel guests.

Indoor or Outdoor at The Peaks? Why Not Both?

I wasn’t in Telluride long before I descended upon the Spa at The Peaks Resort, by far the largest and most impressive of all the Telluride spas. (Actually the Spa at The Peaks Resort ranks as one of the finest in the Rockies—-even in the country. It’s consistently the recipient of many recognitions including Spa Finder magazine’s 2009 Reader’s Choice Award in Best for Winter Sports.) Magnificent panoramic views of some of the most spectacular mountains of the Rockies grab you here, so much so, in fact, that even the locals that frequent this vast facility delight in the vistas provided at The Peaks.

I’m a black liner—that’s to say I love doing laps, swimming end to end, entirely transfixed on the black line at the bottom of the pool. This is what draws me to the Spa at The Peaks on a somewhat regular basis and when I’m there I also love reveling in their many relaxation options from lounging poolside (indoor and outdoor) to soaking up the heat in the sauna and in the steam. Their fitness room—outfitted in the finest state-of-the-art equipment—has unfortunately eluded me so far. I took a yoga class there once—just the antidote for too many days of skiing—but I have not made it back to anymore of those wonderful sessions nor the pilates and spinning they offer either. I guess I’m just part fish, yet some day soon I’ll give the rest more of a try. Oh, how I envy the tourists that come here and don’t have to worry about trotting back to their desks.

The Coed Sauna at The Peaks: The Place to Go After the Pool with Your Hunny Of Course

I’ve had a number of treatments at the Spa at The Peaks over the years and certainly my spray tanning session ranks among the most memorable. The others have all been incredibly relaxing and healing. Perched at some 9,500 feet, many of the treatments here focus on the restoration and nourishment of your skin; indeed you’ll find some of the best skincare products and estheticians in the country nestled in to this sunny mountain spa. I experienced an ISUN facial recently, one of the newer additions to the spa’s menu of treatments. A seemingly endless variety of these 100% organic skincare products were expertly applied for the cleansing, exfoliation and hydration of my skin. The aromatherapeutic benefits were extraordinary and afterward my skin felt revitalized, moist and fresh. Concocted in our own backyard, not far from Telluride, these nationally-recognized ISUN products, are on sale in The Peaks Spa Boutique along with a bundle of other spa goods including workout clothing and scented candles.

One of Many Fireplaces to Choose from at The Himmel Spa at The Franz Klammer Lodge

If you’re looking for a cozier, more European-inspired setting, book an appointment at The Himmel Spa at The Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge. I love the warm, wood, chalet-inspired décor here. Be sure to leave plenty of time to enjoy the spa’s indoor and outdoor hot tubs. And I suggest you sit and sip a cup of tea at the snuggly fireplace nook located at the Lodge’s reception area. That’s truly Old World elegance at its finest. The massage therapists here—especially Darren and Marianne—are among the best. For further relaxation and revitalization, add an Oxygen Service to your treatment. I found it lovely to sit and breathe in copious amounts of O2 before my massage, but you can also enjoy supplemental oxygen throughout your whole treatment. Wow, that’s what I call mountain therapy! Leave time to shop for a wide range of healing therapies and fun togs in The Himmel Spa Boutique.

Soaking and Shopping at The Himmel Spa

Envelope yourself in earth-toned luxury at the Capella Spa, the newest addition to Telluride’s bastions of beautification and well being. The look here is one of subdued elegance, just like the Capella Hotel and Resort itself. It will surely make you want to speak in hushed tones and tiptoe around their indoor pool. I’m dreaming of savoring a cinnamon-dusted hot chocolate, sitting in my robe and slippers on their outside deck overlooking the slopes.

Spa Treatment Suite at Capella Spa, Fabuleux!

As for the Capella Spa services, know that most of the dimly-lighted treatment rooms boast a private steam shower. Truly this is an establishment that prioritizes intimacy and supreme relaxation. Looking for something that is the ultimate après ski experience? Try a Fire and Ice Pedicure. Your feet will love you. The combination of hot stone massage, cooling menthol lotion and warm booties will set you right for another fantastic day on the slopes. These special shea butter booties are sold in their spa boutique along with an array of other up-to-the-minute products including vegan nail polishes, paraben-free creams, yoga mats and lots of other irresistible treats.

Shopping for the Holidays and a Brand New You for 2010 at Capella Spa Boutique

Have I convinced you yet? Spa-going in the mountains is truly the best. It’s so good that I suggest you set aside at least a few hours to fully benefit from all that is offered. Soaking and shopping alone takes over an hour! It’s all so good that you might even want to take a day off from your mountain activities to fully enjoy it all. Just don’t say I said so.

The Peaks Resort & Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, 970-728-6800, www.thepeaksresort.com

Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge, 567 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-728-3318 and 888-728-3318, www.fairmont.com/klammerlodge

Capella Telluride, 568 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-369-0880, www.capellatelluride.com

Spray Tanning: Bronzage in a Bottle

The Peaks Resort & Spa

The days were ticking by in Telluride before I was to leave for a month of travels. As with every pre-trip departure, I had a ton to do. But I was prioritizing my chores and a last-minute beauty treatment had made it to the top of my list.

My mountain pallor wasn’t going to cut it back east where I knew I’d be sporting all kinds of summery attire including a bathing suit. Although it can be delightfully warm—even downright hot—in Telluride in the summer, we do typically have a good amount of rain and cool weather, so it can be a challenge to build up much color, especially if you spend a lot of time at your desk. (The little tan I had was truly a hiker’s tan, so clearly I needed some quick evening out.)

I set up an appointment for a spray tanning, one of the newest services added to the many treatments offered at the Golden Door Spa at The Peaks, Telluride’s landmark resort. I had already seen one girl that had been spray tanned this spring and I was truly amazed by the results.

Peaks Spa Treatment

Lisa, a very bronzed and friendly blond, ushered me into the tiled space and proceeded to explain the treatment. I opted to wear the throw-away thong she had laid out for me but decided to forego the mini-bra. I stood there quite naked and rather chilled while she coerced the machine into motion. Finally the spray shot out with a burst of cool air. She deftly maneuvered the long hose as it chuffed and wheezed like a vacuum. Organic beet juice blew out from the bottle attached to it, turning my skin a honey brown right before my eyes.

“O.K., now lift up your left arm. Good, turn out the inside of your leg. Yeah, that’s right. Now the other leg. A little more,” she politely commanded with all the concentration of a dedicated artist.

I was grateful that she was so sweet and conscientious or else I might have felt completely ridiculous standing there in my birthday suit in front of this complete stranger in my many highly revealing poses.

We stopped to assess the coverage and my degree of brownness. I turned to notice that my back end was nicely covered although it partially resembled a hot cross bun since the thong had left a strip of white up the middle, just off center enough to appear odd.

Totally undeterred, Lisa set out to remedy the problem as I discarded my last shred of modesty by throwing out the thong.

Finally I appeared ready for the beach.

Lisa stood there chatting with me as I dried next to a heat lamp sandwiched in between two fans. She talked about how she had made the conversion from extensive tanning bed use to spray tanning.

“This way is so much better for your health,” she emphasized.

I found all of this interesting but by now I was ready to put my clothes on and go home. I wasn’t quite dry though, so I stood there and baked like a chicken beneath a warming lamp in the deli while Lisa ducked out to deal with another client. I never had any patience for laying in the sun, so even the twenty minutes of drying required here seemed long. Just as I thought I was good to go, I touched my chest for doneness. The tan came off on my finger and I was left with a white patch. I reached for a Kleenex to smooth it out and ended up creating more damage. I gingerly put on my clothes (I had no other choice!) and padded out to see Lisa.

She couldn’t have been nicer but still, she seemed somewhat disconcerted by my predicament once she took a look at my chest back in the treatment room. She sprayed on some more until the patches turned medium brown and the rest looked the color of mahogany. I fretted.

“Come back tomorrow and we’ll fix you. It’s best not to fool with it anymore today,” she explained.

“But I won’t have a minute tomorrow,” I practically whined. “I’m leaving for a month.”

She dusted me copiously with baby powder so that I could safely dress and go. I was happy not to have to stand naked any longer in this chilly room in front of someone I had met just an hour ago.

“Don’t worry. You’d be surprised how this works itself into the skin overnight.”

I mumbled something about exfoliation, words I’m sure she perceived as a threat. She suggested that I perhaps just rub it all gently the next morning with one of my netted puffs and shower gel. I shuffled off with a dreaded feeling in my stomach, imagining that now I’d look like some kind of a giraffe in my beautiful decolletés (plunging necklines).

I could hardly wait to jump into the shower the next day. I quickly saw a flood of beet juice swirl down the drain. I braced myself and looked down at my chest: It was an even and luscious shade of brown. I gasped as I realized I had started to wash my belly with the netted puff. Pouf! Much of that golden tan was now rubbed off. I grabbed a bar of soap and completed the job. I knew from now on, I’d be careful to lightly wash my face and body and then pat myself dry. I loved my new summer look and I quietly vowed to preserve it. I was told my spray tan could last as many as fourteen days and I was determined to eke out every bit of its golden glow.

Peaks Resort & Golden Door Spa, Telluride, 970-728-6800, www.thepeaksresort.com