Bonjour Colorado

Tour Mania Versus Zee Segway

The Segway Peloton of Paris

I’ve been thinking about whizzing around Paris these days.

It’s July and I’m consumed with The Tour. I’m referring to the Tour de France, as I’m sure you might have guessed.

I love watching the undulating ribbon of the peloton weave its way through France, but it’s in Paris on the last day of this epic bike race that this colorful procession mystifies me the most. I think it’s because Paris is so familiar to me: I’ve walked the great length of the Champs-Elysées countless times, wended my way around the expansive place de la Concorde, strolled beneath the arcades of the rue de Rivoli from Concorde to Palais Royal. Seeing the Tour de France posse (caravan, cyclists, team cars, press and officials) dominate this familiar terrain mesmerizes me the most. How incredibly fitting it is to have some of the world’s finest athletes power over the same routes reserved for royalty and heads of state.

If you’re not able to be in the City of Light on the final day of this great race, I encourage you to at least catch part of the last stage on T.V. Even the lively commentary of the sportscasters can’t drone out the pack’s thunderous rumble over the cobbles, the resounding swoosh and whir as they travel along Paris’s centuries-old streets.

If you’re at all like me, you’ll also be envious of the racers having the streets of Paris to themselves. Quel bonheur! Can you imagine how great that feels, pedaling through these historic streets at lightening speed?

There’s nothing like experiencing a place from a bicycle or I suppose, even a Segway. I’m reminded of this every time I hop on a bike but it really hit home recently when a friend told me about how he breezed around Paris standing head and shoulders above the masses. He had taken a Segway tour and visited a good number of Paris’s best-loved sites and monuments in a flash, without the inconveniences of sore feet or having to get on and off a bus a ton of times.

“You mean one of those goofy looking motorized vehicles that has you riding around town perfectly upright?” I asked.

“You betcha,” my friend replied. “They’re really cool. And comfortable, too.”

In my mind I had a hard time getting past the Sci Fi look of these two-wheeled vehicles. My otherworldly impressions of these personal transporters were further reinforced when my friend told me that you lean forward to go forward, backward to go backward.

Hmmmm. I instantly visualized my friend to-ing and fro-ing through the streets of Paris. This image was juxtaposed with a flash of the peloton rounding the top of the Champs-Elysées in a sort of hairpin turn fashion requiring the riders to lean into the turn in order to maintain balance on the bike.

“Sounds revolutionary,” I remarked, half jokingly. Yet I became truly intrigued when I learned that these Segways are driven by electric motors, a greener alternative to other personal transportation devices such as mopeds and motorcycles, both of which occupy a good amount of Paris road space along with its usual clog of motorized vehicles.

Cycling around Paris has become increasingly alluring to me, especially with the city emerging as a more biker friendly metropolis. But now I have Segways to consider. I suddenly feel intrigued, especially by the contrast of this Modern World transportation in Old World Paris.

I can’t help wondering what the Tour de France riders might think of the Segways. Cancel that thought. Fun is fun.

I made a mental note to check out these zippy personal transporters next time I’m in the French capital. For now though I’m really looking forward to cruising around Paris with the guys from the Tour on Sunday, July 25th. What a beautiful sight indeed!

Fat Tire Bike Tours Paris, FatTireBikeTours.com/Paris

City Segway Tours Paris, CitySegwayTours.com/Paris

Note that these above companies operate bike, Segway and walking tours in other major cities and tourist destinations around the world.  Do check them out!

If you’re a Tour de France fan, be sure to listen to my interview with Graham Watson, renowned photographer of the Tour.  You can also read about it and see some of his stunning images here.

Ready, Get Set, Go!

Holidays and Every Day: Quality Not Quantity

Telluride's Black Gold: Telluride Truffle Chocolate Truffle Sauce

I wish I had a dollar—or even a euro—for every time someone asked me how French women stay so thin.  The most obvious answer is that they eat quality, not quantity. They also walk a lot, feel a certain societal pressure to remain slim and, of course, tend to be jazzed up on caffeine and alas, in many cases, cigarettes.  If you’ve ever had a less-than satisfying meal, you know that that provokes cravings of something else.  You’ll have that something else.  And if you’re still not satiated, you’ll seek another something else. Typically people keep on eating until they consume something that tastes really good to them.  I think this is a recurring theme in America.

I—like the French—prefer to eat well from the get go.

This is a big weekend we’re in the throes of, one loaded with greasy barbecue, mayonaise-enriched salads, lots of beer, gin and tonics, chips, brownies, gooey sheet cakes, you name it.  Here in Telluride, we have one of the best Fourth of July celebrations in the country.  It begins with an old-fashioned parade, followed by the Fireman’s picnic and a spectacular show of fireworks at dark. I’m already thinking ahead to my special treat:  a hot fudge sundae from Telluride Truffle, topped with real whipped cream.

Yes, this is the first summer that Telluride Truffle is able to serve up delectable goodies from its own stunning sweet shop located in the heart of town.  Patty Denny, owner and chocolatier extraordinaire of Telluride Truffle, opened this jewel box boutique at the end of last year in the historic Nugget Building (which once housed the first bank robbed by Butch Cassidy).  Visitors and locals alike have been thrilled.  You can stop in here for a box of truffles, a bag of cookies, a piece of cake, or a chocolate sundae to be enjoyed at home or sur place.  Good news:  you only need to delight in a small amount at any given time since the quality is so fine.  I love this little touch of Paree in T-ride!

You can luxuriate in most of the Telluride Truffle products in your own home by ordering from their online boutique.  Type in promo code Paris10 in the Redeem Coupon Box to receive your 10% discount as a BonjourColorado.com reader.  You must try the Telluride Truffle Chocolate Truffle Sauce, but remember that a little goes a long way.  Promise me you’ll spoon it over superior quality ice cream.

You know where I’ll be on the 4th—I hope your holiday is sweet and sparkly as well

Click on the play button below to hear Patty talk about chocolate and Telluride Truffle.

Telluride Truffle's Mountain-Inspired Treats

Likin’ Kelly Liken

Kelly and Her Gourmet Snacks at the Vail Farmers' Market

I make a practice of finding out the names of top restaurants in every city and town I visit, thoughtful research I begin before I leave home and then complete at the end of my stay. From big to small, formal to casual, I love to compile a short list of the three or four recommendations most often provided. Usually I poll at least a half a dozen reliable sources—from locals to hotel managers—and pay close attention to the few names repeated with the greatest measure of enthusiasm. In Vail, Kelly Liken appeared on everyone’s list.

I enjoyed a fabulous dinner this spring at the namesake restaurant of this young chef and am sure that together with my friend and dinner companion, we regaled in one of the finest culinary experiences in the whole Vail Valley. Although Kelly was out of town at the time, to me she seemed to have all the makings of a top chef. Little did I know that she had already been pegged as a Top Chef contestant on the Bravo TV network at that time.

Rick, her charming husband, made sure that every aspect of our meal and wine tasting flowed smoothly. Clearly they make a dynamic team of food professionals; I loved the Americanized twist on the old French classic of the husband heading up the kitchen while madame works the floor. No wonder it appears that Kelly has so much hutzpah on Top Chef. You can taste it in her inventive dishes composed of the freshest and finest ingredients available to this tony Rocky Mountain town. I knew as soon as I entered the Chinese red decor of Kelly Liken that I’d be titillated by dishes full of flavor and panache. We left the restaurant with a jar of Kelly Liken homemade peach (from Palisades, Colorado, renowned for this juicy fruit) jam, delicately laced with ginger in our hands. Every time I sample this wondrous spread, I taste all the boldness of flavor and well-measured finesse of Kelly Liken’s inspired cuisine.

Kelly and Rick: Quite the Pair

It was fun to tune into Top Chef this week, a show I’ve heard much about but had never watched in its entirety. I was rooting for Kelly and another chef, Kenny Gilbert, who I came to know here in Telluride. I winced every time one of these two favorites found themselves up against the criticism and back-stabbing that seems to be such a big part of this show. How brutal! I would guess that some of the chefs wanted to wield their knives on something (or someone!) more than an onion.

Kelly’s back in Vail now but mum’s the word about her Top Chef standing. The fun continues on the air and at her restaurant, however, with a Top Chef Cocktail Party every Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Hmmmm, I wonder if her wry smile belies her final Top Chef status. (The show has been taped after all.)

Kelly’s Summer Harvest Menu is of equal interest to me since it’s sure to represent the finest of Colorado. Every Sunday, Kelly sources and forages the finest goods at the Vail Farmers’ Market and constructs her Sunday evening menu around these offerings. Best to reserve well in advance since this meal, enhanced by a live jazz ensemble that begins at 8:30 p.m., is surely one of the hottest summer events in Vail. You can pick up some of Kelly’s gourmet snacks at this Vail Farmers’ Market, situated in the heart of Vail Village. Maybe you can buy some Kelly Liken ginger peach jam as well.

Kelly Liken, 12 Vail Road, Suite 100, 970-479-0175, KellyLiken.com

Note: Be sure to check your local listings for the Wednesday night airing of Top Chef on Bravo. In Telluride, for example, it’s on later than in Vail.

My Sticky Bun Indulgence at Kelly Liken

Come to Colorado for Cowboys and Way More

T-ride's Town Park: the Quintessential Summer Festival Setting

Summer has popped here in Colorado propelling the season into a solid start. I wrote over a month ago in a previous post about how I attended two major tourism industry events last fall: one for France, one for Colorado. The mood at both gatherings was one of cautious optimism, although I’m sure the French nervosité about their tourism outlook was partly masked by the generous amounts of wine served throughout their program. It seems as though travel to these two fabulous destinations is shaping up nicely, perhaps even better than the travel industry experts might have hoped last fall.

I had a chance to schmooze with many of the movers and shakers from the Colorado travel world at the annual conference of the Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association (CHLA) last November which took place at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, our Rocky Mountain state’s premiere property. As with French Affairs ’09, I only attended the social events of this meeting, get-togethers—both casual and high-brow (yes, even in Colorado)—that allowed many opportunities for networking and idea sharing among some of the top hoteliers in the state. I had just returned from the French travel industry event in New York City, so my desire to draw comparisons was sharper than ever. (If you’ve read this blog some, you know that France and Colorado are often my two frames of references, odd as that may seem!) Resulting verdict: the Coloradans’ professionalism—along with the food and wine they serve at their travel industry events—rivals the level of excellence associated with French hospitality.

Better yet, the notion of friendly service seemed to be emphasized even more at the CHLA event. Perhaps that was largely due to the fact that Karyn Ruth White, motivational comedian/author, kicked off the conference with a stand up routine, entitled Laughing in the Face of Stress for Service Professionals. She delivered a very funny, very real look at the pressures, demands and frustrations that come with working in the customer service field. Karyn Ruth emphasizes the importance of “humortunities,” opportunities for injecting humor into stressful and unpleasant situations. We shuffled off to the Wild, Wild West reception, chuckling about the often craziness of travel and how we—as both travelers and travel professionals—would fare better if we approached certain happenings and encounters with more levity.

I think I’ll try some of Karyn Ruth’s recommendations on the French next time I travel to Paris or the provinces. There must be a clever way of laughing off “Ce n’est pas possible, madame.” Listen to the podcast of an interview I did with Karyn Ruth for lots of laughs.

Here in Telluride, we’re in full festival mode. Like most of the other Rocky Mountain towns, festivals dominate our summer scene. But in T-ride, we’re king of the festivals, many of which have been taking place for well over three decades. The Telluride Bluegrass Festival drew near record-breaking numbers last weekend, ringing in the beginning of summer with four days of extraordinary music, good fun and irrepressible sunshine. This weekend it’s Telluride Wine Festival’s turn, then the Plein Air Festivals in Telluride and Aspen are up.  And the happy beat goes on—as throughout most of Colorado—all the way until the end of September.

No wonder so many people come here to vacation in the summer. And you might have thought we’re just all about cowboys, hikers and hippies. Thankfully we have them, too, but we also have a culture and sophistication that rivals most European destinations.

This is actually a good part of the reason I live here.

Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association, ColoradoLodging.com; contact them to receive your complimentary copy of the Summer Vacation Planner.

Thank you to Merrick Chase, from Telluride Photography, for the photos that accompany this story.  You can purchase images of Colorado and more from Merrick’s site, TelluridePhotography.net.

A Sultry Summer Scene in Colorado

Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties

Style-y Dining at Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass

What does it mean to stay in a green hotel? In the case of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain and the Viceroy Snowmass, it means stepping into a swanky world where sustainable luxury reigns supreme. I stayed at these two stunning resorts this past off-season and was highly impressed by their look and commitment to preserving the environment.

While on the premises I observed a certain amount of sustainable practices on my own, but I yearned to find out more. I posed the question “What makes a hotel green?” to Jeffery Burrel, Director of Operations of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa, and to Jeff David, General Manager of the Viceroy Snowmass, in a recent Travel Fun interview and was interested to hear about what goes into the development and operations of a sustainable property.  And I bet you will, too.  Here’s a short list of the environmentally-conscious building strategies and operational practices implemented in these and most other LEED-certified properties:

-Many of the building materials are sourced locally.  Expect lots of rich stonework and other natural elements.

-Some of the building materials come from post consumer/industrial recycled content.  The roof of The Westin Riverfront, for example, is made of recycled automobile tires.

-Lots of glass, made up of high-performance windows, assure sweeping views.

-Low and non-emitting paints, adhesives and carpets are utilized throughout to ensure healthy indoor air quality.

-Much of the resort’s electricity comes from renewable sources.

-Low-flow fixtures help to conserve water.

-High efficiency appliances are used in the kitchens.

-Housekeeping products tend to be non-toxic and non-allergenic.

In addition to the above, each resort implements a variety of other green-oriented practices.  At The Westin Riverfront I particularly appreciated the recycling bins in the kitchen and their huge emphasis on fitness.  ”We have more health and wellness space than banquet space,” says Jeffery Burrell.  Indeed I was totally won over by their outdoor saline lap pool which to me, is better than swimming in the ocean. (There’s no black line in the ocean.  And if you’re a serious swimmer, you want the black line.)  You can bet, too, that their saline natatorium is far better for your health and wellness than swimming in most chlorine-saturated pools.

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa

At the Viceroy Snowmass, I noticed that the kitchen appliances were unplugged on a daily basis, a smart practice that I’ve since adopted at home.  This was also the first hotel where I found 16-ounce bottles of amenities in the bathroom.  What a great idea! (See below for more of my thoughts on hotel amenities.)

Don’t for a moment think that cutting-edge and down-to-earth are mutually exclusive in either of these resorts.  At both The Westin Riverfront and the Viceroy Snowmass, I was especially impressed by their friendly and efficient service.  I also liked their many little touches such as the aluminum water bottle presented to you upon arrival at the Viceroy and the employee name tags stating each person’s passion at The Westin. Both of these features—especially the name tags—provide nice opportunities to engage warmly with the hotel staff.

And best of all, each of these resorts boast outstanding spas and restaurants that you can enjoy even if you’re not a guest of the hotel.  In fact both the Restaurant Avondale at The Westin Riverfront and Eight K Restaurant at the Viceroy Snowmass are immensely popular with the locals.  As for their spas, zen and nature have never come together in such a sensuous manner in both of these healing spaces.

The Plunge Pool at the Viceroy Snowmass

Click on the play button below to hear more about these great properties and green hotels in general.

Friday Afternoon Summer Scene at the Avondale Deck

Summer Highlights

Definitely take in the FAC (Friday Afternoon Club) at Avondale at The Westin Riverfront.  It’s the happening place in Beaver Creek and the whole Vail Valley where people come to enjoy the restaurant’s expansive, south-facing deck, the beautiful mountain views and the sizzling vibe.

This is the first summer that the Elk Camp Gondola in Snowmass is running.  What a great way to be whisked from base camp to tons of hiking, biking, wildflower viewing, free concerts and more.

Summer Sailing in Snowmass

Breaking My Addiction to Mini Potions and Lotions

If you read some of my recent posts, you’ll learn that I’m swearing myself off of plastic.  (Or at least greatly minimizing it in my life.)  Shortly after this declaration, I realized that that meant I’d have to give up on amassing most of the in-room hotel amenities that came to be a treasured part of many of my hotel stays. Yes, I admit I was one of those persons that would hoard shampoos, conditioners, bath gels, cotton swabs, shower caps, shoe cleaners, you name it.  I would piggishly stash them in my suitcase on a daily basis so that housekeeping would leave behind a fresh supply.  I have a collection of minis that take up a huge storage bin beneath my bathroom sink. My hunny, Steve Togni, G.M. of the Mountain Lodge in Telluride, swears that all these hotel amenities are of inferior quality in any event.  I ignore him and relish my supply of goods, many of which bear the name of renowned brands of beauty products such as Floris or of hotels such as La Mamounia in Marocco.  Sometimes as in the case of many fine French hotels, I’ve been lucky enough to collect miniatures that boast both a big name brand and a big name hotel.

These little take-aways have been my precious souvenirs for decades to be used parsimoniously at home (or even gifted to others!) like treasured tchotchkes from a faraway land.  But from now on they will no longer be a part of my travel experience.  I will no longer perpetuate this addiction to plastic.  (Worst of all, many of these products are not packaged in recyclable containers.)  Ugh, such is the price of consciousness.

And then just two weeks after having sworn myself off of hotel amenities don’t I find an assortment of BeeKind products, a collection of Gilchrist & Soames environmentally-friendly in-room amenities, gracing the edge of the vanity at the Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, a down-home styled hotel in nearby Ouray, Colorado where Steve and I experienced a little getaway.  We read the labels on these paper bottles, looked at each other approvingly, smiled, grabbed a couple each and tucked them into our bags.

I think we’ll do just fine with this shift to green travel after all.

Thank you to Jeremy Swanson for the photo of the Aspen/Snowmass gondola.