Beauty Colorado Hotels Skiing & Snowboarding Spas Telluride The Rockies: Beauty Colorado Hotels Skiing & Snowboarding Spas Telluride The Rockies
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Pick a Spa, Pick a Ski Destination
You’re missing out on a good chunk of fun and relaxation if you think your whole mountain experience has to be all about hitting the slopes. Sure, there’s nothing like spending day after day in the fresh air, carving perfect turns on buttery snow or picking through exquisite, diamond-shaped moguls. Yet even the most die-hard skiers and boarders need a day off. Or maybe just a half day. Or how about a couple days off? It’s supposed to be a vacation after all. You don’t want to feel like you need a vacation after your vacation, do you? How about après-ski—don’t those moments represent some of the best of your whole ski vacation? Those delicious hours of the day don’t have to be all about drinks at the bar.
O.K., admit it, time spent at the spa would be much appreciated. And in case you haven’t noticed, spas aren’t just for ladies. Men (and even in some cases, children) enjoy delightful times there, as well, especially in the Rockies where top ski destinations boast some of the finest spas in the country. It seems as though resort and spa experts really “get it” in the mountains. They realize that in a rugged land where you play hard there’s even more of a need for spas that focus on ultimate relaxation and hydration, privileged enclaves where the weary outdoor enthusiast can go to unwind and rejuvenate. Best of all, most of these spas rate high on ambiance. From cozy mountain elegance to alpenglow serene, there’s a spa and a vast menu of treatments from which to choose for everyone’s taste.
There’s still plenty of time to plan a great mid-winter or spring ski trip. Act fast though since with every additional snowfall, the airlines seem to bump up their prices. (Note that as I post this we’re delighting in a major snowstorm that has already dumped about 1 1/2 feet on most of Colorado’s mountain resorts.) As with all travels, there’s much to consider when planning your vacation. I suggest you factor in the spa component more than ever before. You never know when the skiing might go south (even for just a few days) and as we all know, there’s nothing like a spa experience to alleviate a mountain of stress.
I’ve highlighted some of my favorite Colorado mountain spas below. All are contained within places of lodging, however, you don’t necessarily have to stay at that resort to experience the spa. All open their facilities to outside guests for the price of a treatment or in some cases, a day pass.
The Spa at The Peaks, Telluride
I’m lucky enough to claim this expansive spa and fitness center as part of my home turf. I come here as often as I can and always leave relaxed and restored. Perhaps the largest and most impressive among my Colorado mountain spas featured in this story, The Spa at The Peaks encompasses thirty-two treatment rooms, a sleek fitness center, private men’s and women’s lounges, a full-service hair and nail salon, numerous saunas, steam rooms, Jacuzzis, Roman tubs and two pools including a lap pool and an indoor/outdoor pool as well as a lovely gift shop. They also offer a variety of classes from yoga to Zumba. From most vantage points at The Peaks, you gaze out at awe-inspiring peaks, a panoramic vista that enhances your spa sensations tenfold every season of the year. This is also a terrific kid-friendly spa (although there are plenty of private areas for adults). I’m always amazed by the amount of energy the kids display romping in the indoor/outdoor pool and zipping down the water slide after big days on the slopes or out hiking. Come early to claim your poolside chaise lounge in the summer since the outdoor pool at The Peaks is a Telluride favorite. Note that I enjoyed a fabulous facial here by Tricia, an excellent esthetician, and that the spa uses Isun, a locally-made line of beauty products, in most of their treatments. For a fun story about my spray tanning experience at the salon, read Spray Tanning: Bronzage in a Bottle.
Himmel Spa, Fairmont Franz Klammer Lodge, Telluride
Easily considered one of the best-kept secrets of Telluride, most people don’t realize that this boutique spa may be enjoyed even if you’re not staying at The Klammer. I love the intimate, low-key feel of the spa which includes indoor and outdoor hot tubs, steam rooms and saunas and a cozy welcome area and treatment rooms which exude a heartwarming chalet-like feel. Come early to experience the rooftop adult-only hot tub before your treatment and dare to go naked (I did!) if you slip quickly into the bubbling water. A massage with Darren is a must, especially if you’re in need of good muscle work and great healing therapy.
Read Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas for other luxury mountain spas in Telluride. Note Capella changed ownership this year and is now called Hotel Madeline. For more boutique-y spa experiences in T-ride, read Telluride’s Beauty Boutiques.
Remède Spa, St. Regis Resort, Aspen
For me, Remède is the spa to go to in Aspen. It exudes all the luxury and discretion of this high-end property. If you’re lucky enough to be staying at the St. Re gis, you can pad down to the spa in your robe, otherwise plan to spend a good chunk of time here, the way so many of the Aspenites do for a variety of treatments from a Purifying Wrap to a Rejuvenating Pedicure. A great address for couples or even a spa day with the girls, each spa experience begins with a delightful spread of sweet and savory snacks and ends with a glass of champagne. Arrive well in advance of your treatment to enjoy Remède’s many amenities including a comforting oxygen lounge and a Confluence hot tub with waterfall, both leisurely features shared best à deux. It’s all so transformative and relaxing that you just might need to book a stay here after all.
Allegria Spa, Park Hyatt, Beaver Creek
Whether you’re a visitor or a resident of Colorado, it seems that you can never get enough hydration in this arid climate. We all try to drink gallons of water and slather ourselves with triple-moisturizing oils and creams. Yet it’s never enough. For the supreme gift of moisture, experience aqua sanitas, or healing waters, at Allegria Spa at the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek. Inspired from the ancient tradition of Roman baths, here you may take to the waters in a variety of forms before your treatment (such as a facial or massage) even begins. Start at the Thermae Pool, a hot, co-ed pool, evocative of a natural spring. The rest of your hydrotherapy is enjoyed in separate male and female areas where you’’ll want to sample their Cascata Rainshower, their Caldarium Steam Room and Mineral Pools and their Tepidarium, a room bathed in light where you laze upon heated, tile loungers. My visit at Allegria culminated with an ultra-hydrating facial, expertly provided by Jennifer. I left so relaxed that I couldn’t muster the energy to shop in Allegria’s boutique, a fabulous-looking emporium of potions and lotions that begged to be discovered. Men take note: this might be one more reason to send your ladies to the spa more often.
Bachelor Gulch Spa at The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch
I love the Rocky Mountain feel of this whole resort, a look that’s largely conveyed through the use of lots of natural materials such as wood and stone. The Bachelor Gulch Spa also embodies this back-to-nature approach, especially within its Stone Grotto, a relaxation area distinguished by stone walls and a wood ceiling where men and women lounge about within a tranquil and private setting. To me, it felt like a luxurious womb, especially after a dip in the Grotto’s warm, saline pool. It’s easy to curl up poolside for a nap. Fortunately this restful moment might only be interrupted by your therapist gently awakening you for your treatment. I had a massage with Adam, a session marked by his skillful hands and heating pads applied to my back and shoulders, an added feature never before experienced with a massage. Afterward, my hunny and I sat outside of the Great Room around the fire pits to take in the sunset before finally moving inside for drinks. We sunk deeply into their huge, leather couches, expressing gratitude that we had cut our ski day short to spend such a long, languorous moment at The Bachelor Gulch Spa, most definitely one of the most intimate and romantic spas we had ever encountered together.
As I look back upon my time at many of the above resorts, I realize that these spa experiences flood my mind as much as my memories on the hill. It’s my bet that they’ll have the same effect on you as well.
Colorado Denver Fashion & Style Hotels Restaurants Shopping The Rockies: Colorado Denver Fashion & Style Hotels Restaurants Shopping The Rockies
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Cherry Creek: One of America’s Top Spots for Chic Shopping, Lodging and Dining
Where are you shopping this weekend? With only two weeks left until Christmas, I’d say there’s a good chance you might find yourself in a store. Many Americans will be hitting the mall, a dreaded chore for some unless you’re lucky enough to experience the Cherry Creek Shopping Center in Denver, one of the world’s premier showcases for quality goods from sunglasses to kitchen accessories to classic and up-to-the-minute fashions. Think Tysons Corner and Bal Harbour Shops—if you’ve been to either of these renowned shopping areas you have a good idea of what to expect at the Cherry Creek Shopping Center. From Burberry to Juicy Couture to Montblanc to Keihl’s and many more, the finest American and European brands reign here in great force. Macy’s, Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus anchor this alluring complex where even during this busy retail season, shopping is a delight. You’ll also find an Apple store among the mall’s 160 retailers, reason alone to hit this celebrated shopping place in Denver. Their jewel-like Ice Palace where Santa Claus holds court distinguishes itself by having a Santa that signs to deaf and hearing impaired children. Indeed, this is not your ordinary mall.
I suggest you plan to spend at least a couple of days in this most gentrified part of Denver. You’ll also want to take in Cherry Creek North, a lively shopping district next to the Cherry Creek Shopping Center, comprised of over three hundred upscale boutiques, galleries, restaurants, salons and spas within a sixteen-block area. I love the leisurely feel of this area where you can shop at big and small emporiums such as Crate and Barrel, Eileen Fischer, Loro Piana, Lands’ End and many more. Why, there’s even an Hermès.
Looking for an even more boutique-y shopping experience? If so, you’re my kind of shopper. Just about a mile away from the Cherry Creek Shopping Center and Cherry Creek North, you’ll find a handful of shops worth the detour. Within the Country Club part of Denver’s Cherry Creek, I visited a few quaint stores that remind me of the sort of off-the-beaten-path boutiques I’d bring people to in Paris during one of my Chic Promenade shopping tours. (My official entry into the travel world came via a shopping service I founded in Paris during the late eighties.)
Don’t we all want to go where the locals shop? That’s becoming more of a rarity these days and all too often everything looks alike no matter where we go. Clearly the fashionable ladies of this well-heeled neighborhood have done a good job of patronizing this conglomeration of shops north of Speer near Downing Street since the ones I visited appear to be thriving.
You’ll want to stop first at The Lark (1219 E. 4th Avenue, 303-744-7464), a warm and inviting table arts and home decor shop that’s been here for forty years. Owners Jane Smithers and Jill Livian present gifts galore, all tastefully displayed on large wooden tables, endearing tableaus that showcase a festival of colors and textures, no matter the season. “We like to offer tradition with a twist,” Jane tells me. “I try to find things that look expensive but aren’t,” she continues. With backgrounds and extensive knowledge in interior design and decor, clearly these two ladies know how to pull together a look with great style. “Most Denver home decor shops have gone contemporary,” Jane explains to me. At The Lark you’ll find stylish lamps, frames, dinnerware, glassware, linens, decorations and more that exude such elegance and verve they’ll always be in fashion.
Next door at Lewis Bobrick Antiques (1213 E. 4th Avenue, 303-744-9203), Native American arts and crafts vie for attention alongside western paintings, Persian rugs and sometimes even Italian ceramics from the sixties. “Anything with a patina works for me,” Lewis Bobrick explains, a well-respected dealer that’s been at this location for fifteen years. “Most things find me,” he responds when asked where he procures such an eclectic array of art and antiques. After digging a little more, I also learn that Mr. Bobrick spends a lot of time with pickers in Santa Fe. Ah-ha!
Bargain hunters must take in La Cache (400 Downing, 303-871-9605), a consignment shop benefiting the Children’s Hospital of Denver, which occupies the corner spot of Downing and 4th Avenue. How about snatching up a Prince Charles and Lady Diana souvenir plate for $22.? Or a cut-glass bowl, perfect for your next dinner party? You’ll find all kinds of collectibles, table arts, paintings and furnishings here, all finely-made treasures likely dropped off by the ladies of this tony part of Denver. It’s an old-fashioned store filled with old-fashioned goods that sell at old-fashioned prices. Still though they’re turning a nice profit because La Cache has raised close to three million dollars for the Children’s Hospital since their opening in the mid eighties.
For a whiff of Old World charm, wend your way around the corner and peek into HMK (408 Downing Street, 303-321-5878), a darling floral and home accessories shop filled with more sentimental gift ideas. Truly this reminds me of the sort of neighborhood florist I’d find tucked away on a side street in Paris.
Voilà, that concludes this chic promenade through Denver. Bet you didn’t realize that Denver and especially the Cherry Creek district of the mile-high city offered such extraordinary shopping. Mais oui, from big names to lesser-known boutiques, there’s something for every taste and budget, every season of the year.
Where to Stay
JW Marriott Denver Cherry Creek, 150 Clayton Lane, 303-326-2700
This JW Marriott in Cherry Creek is a must. No other establishment epitomizes the sophistication and naturally refined style of this renowned Denver neighborhood than this stunning hotel. Good news, too: a recently-completed five million dollar renovation of this seven-year-old establishment has rendered it more sleek and spectacular than before. The color palate in most of the rooms features dark blues, with hints of magenta and orange, perfect hues for accenting the sunsets that captivate you from most of their guest rooms. Overall, I love the warm, contemporary vibe of this JW Marriott and I’m sure you will, too.
Where to Eat
Second Home Kitchen + Bar, 150 Clayton Lane, 303-253-3000
Located within the JW Marriott Cherry Creek, Second Home Kitchen + Bar evokes a sense of style and ease that we all crave, especially after a big day of shopping. I love how the notion of urban sophistication translates into the menu of this Sage Restaurant Group concept dining establishment. You can savor a plate of artisanal cheeses or charcuterie with fine wine or come with the kids (in their pajamas, if you want) for Sunday brunch. Other upscale comfort food selections include Chicken & Waffles, Wild Mushroom Risotto, Grilled Romaine Salad, Brick Oven Pizzas, Sugar Mama’s Rum Cake and many more delectable offerings. Never has home cooking tasted so fresh and flavorful. Their lively bar scene rates as one of the best in Cherry Creek as well.
Elway’s, 2500 East First Avenue, 303-399-5353
If you’re looking to take up the swank a notch, book a table at Elway’s Cherry Creek, conveniently situated at the edge of the Cherry Creek Shopping Center. Their booths and tables fill with a big business crowd at lunch, creating a club-y feel akin to major cosmopolitan centers. In the evening, the scene slips into a decidedly more intimate mode. At all times, the sleek, Art Deco-inspired decor of this elegant space provides a soothing backdrop for a break from the busy-ness of the Cherry Creek retail scene. Whether you come for lunch or dinner, you’re sure to wow yourself over their beautifully prepared seafood and steaks. And for desert, you can order Elway’s crème brulée by the spoonful. But I suggest you don’t, since it’s so exquisite you’ll want to gobble up a full portion unless, of course, you hardly have room after your Maine Lobster Tail or Grilled King Canyon Buffalo Ribeye.
This Just In
Elway’s Vail recently opened and is now serving après ski and dinner daily. Check them out at 174 East Gore Creek Drive, 970-754-7818.
Colorado Hotels Restaurants The Rockies: Colorado Hotels Restaurants The Rockies
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Hotel Boulderado: A Beautiful Destination for the Holidays and All Year Long
Well, it’s here. Now that I have my turkey carcass boiling on the stove I feel comfortable embracing the holiday season. (I’m not one to rush things—I like each season to be experienced fully before approaching the next.) But now the countdown is on and it’s up to us not to let ourselves get all crazy with the cooking, decorating, celebrating and oh yes, the shopping.
I try to be like the French and adhere to quality, not quantity. I apply that to everything from what I consume to where I choose to spend my time. So let me suggest you buy less but do it in a more memorable manner. That applies to eating as well and even how and where you spend time away from home.
Relishing a moment—whether it’s a few hours or a few days—at Hotel Boulderado, one of Colorado’s most historic properties, will surely make your holidays special. Call it Christmas central. Festooned with holiday decorations from its stained glass ceiling to its tile floor and all around its hand-carved wooden railings, this more-than one-hundred year-old landmark becomes even more splendiferous at this time of year. This glittering Victorian gem draws people from all over and to me, I can think of no other Coloradan establishment that exudes as much charm as the Boulderado during this festive season.
And this being Boulder, Hotel Boulderado manages to pull off a green Christmas to boot! Indeed, that’s a living indoor Christmas tree that towers within the hotel’s glass atrium lobby, soaring far above the mezzanine where people love to admire the hotel’s elegant decorations and delight in one of their Holiday Teas. Sipping fine Darjeeling and nibbling on finger sandwiches and mini cakes takes on a whole different allure within this gilded interior at Christmastime.
Oh yes, I suppose there’s the shopping to consider as well. I think our mountain towns offer some of the best. I fare better in boutiques than in large, impersonal stores, the scene you find in most Coloradan towns. Boulder’s pedestrian-friendly, Pearl Street Mall is known to be one of the most pleasurable shopping areas in the country. To me, it strikes just the right balance between down-home Rocky Mountain cool and up-down sophisticate. I also love all the little restaurants, coffee shops and bars that break up this retail byway. Shop first and then languish at the Hotel Boulderado for tea, a drink, a lovely meal or a romantic stay.
Slowing down a bit and taking in lovely surroundings will enhance your holiday memories. Trust me. I’m sure it prolongs life—or at least good living. If you have any doubt, take a look (or even a ride!) on Hotel Boulderado’s more-than one-hundred year-old, hand-operated elevator, one of the oldest of its kind. It moves cautiously, but boy is it a joy to ride.
Hotel Boulderado, 2115 Thirteenth Street, Boulder, 303-442-4344 and 800-433-4344; reserve in advance for the Holiday Teas as well as for their Christmas Buffet and New Year’s Eve Masquerade Ball, two other fun events at this renowned property.
Hotel Happiness in Denver
Looking for a fun, convenient and affordable place to stay in downtown Denver? Check out Marriot’s TownePlace Suites Denver Downtown, a chain hotel with charm. Of course I was drawn to this property since it occupies the legendary A.B. Hirshfeld Press Building, a handsome structure over a century-old located on Speer Boulevard. Historic photos, modish- colored furnishings and accent pieces dress up this property with style and panache. Everywhere you turn there’s something interesting, fun or joyful to look at or experience. (No dreary breakfast bars here!)
You’ll likely be most impressed by their prices, which means you’ll want to reserve in advance. It’s my bet that the word is out about TownePlace Suites Denver since their price/quality relationship seems hard to beat. Check their last-minute weekend rates as well for even more exceptional value. Parking is easy and free here, too. And the staff can’t be nicer.
I love their downtown location, just minutes from Cherry Creek and only a short distance from the Denver Art Museum. LoDo and the 16th Street Mall aren’t far either, however, you’ll find lots of neat little restaurants in the neighborhood. Athletic types will love the easy access to the Cherry Creek Trail, a scenic cycling/walking path right outside the hotel’s door. And if you need to stay in, do some work, cook a meal and then just relax, you’ll find everything to your liking at this cheery and well-run all-suite hotel. A real deal.
TownePlace Suites Denver Downtown, 685 Speer Boulevard, 303-722-2322.
Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Filling in Nicely in Telluride: Snowstorm After Snowstorm
Yippee! What a month of November it has been so far—and it’s only the seventh! We’ve had seventeen inches of beautiful white fluff in the past four days and more snow is in the forecast for today and tonight. And then very cold temperatures—as low as single digits Tuesday night. We couldn’t ask for a better set up for a great ski season.
End of October was pretty sweet, too. As I reported in Fall in Colorado: October Snow Arrives with My Woolens and Ski Gear, our weather switched from glorious full-on Indian Summer to Winter and it looks like winter’s here to stay. That’s just the way it’s supposed to be in ski country.
Boy, do I love this place. When people ask me if I miss Paris, I sometimes reply “Have you ever been to Telluride?”
It’s going to be a great season. I’m off to my storage area to pick up my boots and boards.
REASONS FOR COMING TO TELLURIDE NOW AND THROUGH MID-DECEMBER
Shopping
All over Telluride and Telluride Mountain Village but especially at the KOTO SKI & Sport Swap; Friday, November 11th-Sunday, November 13th. This legendary snowsports sale actually takes place all day Saturday (pick up and drop off of goods you have to sell on Friday & Sunday). This thirty-six-year-old event has become a Colorado tradition, drawing plenty of people to Telluride for it anually. Expect to find brand new and used equipment and gear at killer prices. Telluride Ski & Golf will also be there to sell some nice deals on a variety of passes. Don’t miss it!
Great Hotel Rates
Whether it’s for this weekend’s Ski & Sport Swap, Thanksgiving (a great time for togethering!) or just some fun, early-season skiing and riding the first half of December, most of the places of lodging in Telluride offer some great deals throughout this period. Here are some of my favorites:
Mountain Lodge Telluride, 970-369-5000; this is my pick for togethering, especially with their variety of packages and offers to choose from.
The Peaks Resort & Spa, 970-728-6800 and 800-789-2220; great specials at this page.
New Sheridan, 800-200-1891; check out their First Tracks Ski Package. Please note that the New Sheridan will re-open for the season November 23.
Few Crowds
The Telluride ski area opens on Thanksgiving. Depending on the snow conditions and the amount of terrain open, that weekend can be sort of busy (although you know we rarely have lift lines in T-ride). But after that, there’s nary a bunny on the slopes until holiday vacationers begin to trickle in mid-December. A quick little ski trip to southwestern Colorado is a fantastic way to beat all the holiday hoopla.
Hope to see you around!


























































