Art & Culture Colorado Denver Hotels Music & Dance Restaurants: Art & Culture Colorado Denver Hotels Music & Dance Restaurants
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DCPA, The Lion King, Kevin Taylor and Other Roars About Denver’s Downtown and LoDo
The Lion King
With Halloween behind us, we can focus more on the real holiday season, the nearly two-month period that begins right about now. (You all must know that it has been moved up!) For me, one of the nicest things to do during this festive period is to go out on the town for dinner and a show, a not-too-easy feat from Telluride but certainly closer than New York.
The Denver Center for the Performing Arts (DCPA) makes such a night out worth the effort since they consistently offer a tremendous lineup of shows and performances, all concentrated within a twelve-acre, four-block complex in the heart of downtown Denver. Did you know that DCPA is the second largest arts complex in the country? Their ten performance spaces beautifully accommodate Broadway touring productions, a major symphony and opera, dance and ballet, chorales and a variety of theater groups. They can seat 10,000 people within their theaters, splendid showplaces of varying sizes connected by an eighty-foot-tall glass roof.
And tonight “The Lion King” opens at The Buell Theatre for a five-week run! This dazzling production enjoyed sell-out shows during their 2002 and 2006 engagements in Denver. Tickets are still available for this stint but as expected, they’re going fast. I hope I can take it in since I love great stories, spectacular shows and cats of all kinds.
The Bar at Kevin Taylor's at The Opera House
Wondering where to have dinner near the DCPA? Let me suggest Kevin Taylor’s at The Opera House, just steps away from any of the performances. The sophisticated, dramatic decor here makes you feel as though you’re sitting upon a stage, one in which la mise en place and mise en scène of everything—from the costumes on the wall to the food on your plates—are clearly of the utmost importance. Yes, here you can easily applaud all the visual and gustatory effects that open your evening like a red velvet curtain parting before you. Probably the best news of this performance, however, is that they serve fine food and drink in near-record time. Accustomed to catering to people in a rush, the waitstaff at Kevin Taylor’s at The Opera House always makes sure you’re served in plenty of time for your show.
Colorado native Kevin Taylor stands out as one of Denver’s top restaurateurs, boasting five dining establishments in Denver and one in Central City, Colorado. Also at the DCPA, Kevin’s Limelight Supper Club & Lounge headlines fresh and casual cuisine for the pre and post theatre crowds.
If you’re able to carve out more time, Prima Ristorante, one of KT’s other establishments, is just a short walk away in Denver’s Lower Downtown, or LoDo, one of my favorite neighborhoods of the mile-high city. Situated within the lovely Hotel Teatro, Prima features light Italian fare in an open and airy, Euro-inspired setting. They serve breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, so maybe you can make a meal here work with your matinée or evening performance schedule. Restaurant Kevin Taylor, also located within Hotel Teatro, commands that you spend more time à table. Haute cuisine cannot be rushed, n’est-ce pas?
Succulent Beef: The Main Act at Kevin Taylor's
The Dining Room at Kevin Taylor's at The Opera House
When at the Teatro, be sure to look around to admire their many glorious costumes on display from past theater productions at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts. This boutique hotel reminds me of an Italian villa, a real gem. Even better, book a room here.
Leo, My Lion King, Roaring or Perhaps Yawning
You can also stay at The Curtis, another one of my favorites, located right across the street from DCPA. Light-hearted types—or perhaps those most in need of a good chuckle—will love it!
Aren’t the holidays supposed to be about fun and merry-making? We have enough Greek tragedies in our lives these days in any event.
Check out Hysterical in Denver, Viva Italia, Viva Italian Americans, Viva la Dolce Vita in Denver and Holiday Time in Denver for more stories on DCPA. Read Fun this Summer and Year-Round at The Curtis for another mention of DCPA in my write up on one of Denver’s hippest hotels.
Read More LoDo Love, Viva Italia, Viva Italian Americans, Viva la Dolce Vita in Denver and Night Out in Denver for more on Hotel Teatro, Prima Ristorante and LoDo.
Thank you to DCPA, Joan Marcus @ Disney and Kevin Taylor for the images in this post.
Art & Culture DC Music & Dance Restaurants Travel: Art & Cultrue DC Music & Dance Restaurants Travel
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MLK, DC’s Black Heritage, Chuck Brown, Frankie and Me
Martin Luther KIng Memorial
With all the press lately about the official opening of the Martin Luther King Memorial, I thought I’d share with you a spirited night in Washington, DC spent with my oldest brother, Frank. He’s a real doer and whether it’s work or personal, he knows how to select and orchestrate all the right elements to achieve maximum results. In this case, it was about showing his younger sister a good time.
He had reserved a late Sunday afternoon and evening for us in August. Chuck Brown, the Godfather of Go-Go, a style of music that incorporates jazz, funk, R & B, hip-hop and dancehall, was to be the main attraction. Frankie had secured the tickets at DC’s renowned 9:30 Club as soon as he knew I was headed his way, about a month before the show. I hadn’t heard anything about Chuck Brown, but trusted that my brother was lining up a fun night out. He’s a big planner—much like me—and that quality along with a nice dose of serendipity laid out an evening that bobbed along beautifully on a helluva cross cultural theme.
Without any discussion whatsoever, the car pointed in the direction of the freshly-opened MLK Memorial. It was the Sunday after Hurricane Irene blew through our nation’s capitol (along with most of the eastern seaboard), so the Memorial’s official opening—slated for that weekend—had been postponed. Frank and I thought we’d check it out anyway since although not properly christened, it was open. No luck. We drove along the Potomac on the roadway bordering the monument, creeping along with the hope that we’d find a car that would pull out and leave its parking space for us. No way. You couldn’t even shoehorn a moped in between the lineup of vehicles. Not surprisingly, most of the visitors headed to or from the MLK Memorial were African-American or at least of some kind of Negro heritage. They had waited long enough for the tribute to their esteemed leader—it was time to take a look. Frank and I gave up searching for a spot. I felt somewhat disappointed but bowed out gracefully with the sentiments that it would be best for us to leave any free parking to the people for whom Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King’s I’ve Been to the Mountaintop speech meant the most.
Frank zoomed off to the Greater U Street district where we’d later be taking in the concert. We parked and began to explore. Here I discovered a culturally diverse neighborhood, peppered with all kinds of people from varying social classes. It took me a total of two minutes to notice a lot of buff and stylish gay men, always a good sign, indicating that a neighborhood has been gentrified enough to possess a worthwhile dining and shopping scene.
“Ever eat Ethiopian?” Frank asked. I admitted I hadn’t but always wanted to try. “Well you know you’re going to have to eat with your hand,” he quipped, almost like a dare. Suddenly images of his travel tales in Africa where you eat with the right hand and take care of the “necessary” with the left flashed into my head. He must have noticed my hesitation, since in perhaps an effort to assuage my confusion, he informed me that at these Ethiopian restaurants you scoop the food up with bread.
“Well, then that’s O.K.,” I piped up, almost defensively. My brother knows me as one to be enchanted with fine restaurants and hotels, so I was determined to show him a more adventuresome side of myself. I had been referred to as “fussy Aunt Bessie” one too many times in my life anyway.
Sitting out in the sidewalk seating area of Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant watching the colorful parade of people pass by with my bro was great fun. I found the food tasty but couldn’t get past the spongey, amoeba-like bread served with it. I felt too proud to eat the spicy and savory mélange of meat and vegetable dishes solely with a fork and instead nearly gagged downing the gelatinous substance referred to as bread. The restaurant was packed, so I figured it was more of a mental block for me. I guess I won’t be going to Ethiopia anytime soon.
Ben's Chili Bowl
It was a delicious summer evening and after dinner, Frank and I strolled through the neighborhood, checking out the scene from end to end. I was delighted to discover that Greater U Street is considered the historic heart of DC’s African-American community. I stopped in front of a plaque indicating Lincoln Theater, now restored to its 1922 grandeur. Cab Calloway, Pearl Bailey, Sarah Vaughan and Louis Armstrong all performed there. I imagined the elegance of the folks that attended these great events during an era when every man had to wear a tie. (And you can bet the ladies were dressed to the nines, too!)
We stopped at Ben’s Chili Bowl, a National Landmark, one of the oldest, continuously running black-owned and operated businesses in the country. Founded in 1958, Ben’s has witnessed a lot of happenings during its history including the riots of 1968 following the assassination of the Reverend Dr. Martin Luther King. I checked out their brightly-lighted interior and perused their menus. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and I suspected they were packed during most of their hours of operation. As much as I enjoyed sitting on a patio with Frank, I couldn’t help thinking that bellying up to the counter together would have been a real hoot.
Ben's Chili Scene
We read more plaques on our way to the 9:30 Club and peeked into a few more restaurants. The place was hopping and Frank confirmed that Greater U Street, DC’s historic Black Broadway, was experiencing a resurgence of nightlife today.
Chuck Brown: The Godfather of Go-Go
The 9:30 Club stands out as one of the hottest places to listen to music in all of DC. By the time we arrived, it was already raging. Frank and I made it to the upstairs balcony and claimed a sliver of space where we remained for the rest of the show. The immense, dark cavernous space was packed and as I looked around, noticed mostly with people of color. Wow, I thought to myself, we have a very vibrant music scene in Telluride with world-class performers such as David Byrne, B.B. King, Mumford and Sons and more that headline our big music festivals, but our audiences are almost entirely white-bread even though people come from near and far. What a fabulous destination I had found myself in!
My brother grinned ear-to-ear and we both began to groove and gyrate to Chuck’s runaway beat. I felt the floor shake beneath me. I brushed off an Oh God moment, but still made note of the exits in case of emergency or some other need for mass exodus. Wind me up Chuck was setting the house ‘a fire and my brother and I were fanning his flames. I raised my hands and clapped to the beat. People exploded all around us. But as I scanned this large venue, I noticed that everyone was punching their fist—mostly their right one—into the air. I tried that, but it felt strange, so I kept reverting to raising my hands and clapping them together à la Telluride. More Black power. Then more fist pumping. The floor swagged and swayed. Frankie smiled. And then finally I punched my right fist up into the air and screamed. Ya-hoo! Gotta love Go-Go.
Frank and I could barely drag ourselves out of bed the next morning. Thank goodness he’s a go-getter, since he has to work to preserve our country’s Social Security. I’m just a freelance writer out for a good time.
I can’t wait for another outing with my bro in DC. Somehow I think next time it might very well include an actual trip to the MLK Memorial. Maybe I’ll make him swing by Ben’s Chili Bowl for a chili dog afterward. Their famous chili is known to make a hot dog bark. Or a white girl pump her fist.
MLK Memorial
The African-American Heritage Trail in DC boasts some two hundred historic sites around the city, about one hundred of them featuring plaques. You can find sites and plaques in almost every neighborhood of the city. Visit Cultural Tourism DC to find out more.
9:30 Club, 815 V Street NW, 202-265-0930 or 877-435-9849 for tickets.
Dukem Ethiopian Restaurant, 1114-1118 U Street NW, 202-667-8735.
Ben’s Chili Bowl, 1114-1118 U Street NW, 202-667-0909.
A Couple of Other Restaurants I Scouted Out within the Greater U Street Neighborhood
Coppi’s Organic Restaurant, 1414 U Street NW, 202-319-7773; a Zagat-rated restaurant.
American Ice Company, 917 V Street NW, 202-758-3562, a hip bar and restaurant near the 9:30 Club.
Note also that the scene at the 9:30 Club changes according to the performer. My brother is slated to see my guy Willie Nelson there in November!
Thank you to the Washington, DC Martin Luther King Jr. National Memorial Project Foundation, Gediyon Kifle, Chuck Brown and Ben’s Chili Bowl for the use of the images in this post.
Art & Culture Girl Talk Hotels New England Restaurants Shopping Travel: Art & Culture Girl Talk Hotels New England Restaurants Shopping Travel
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A Heartwarming Day Trip to Western Massachusetts and the Norman Rockwell Museum
Autumnal Scene in Stockbridge, Massachusetts
I was back east recently visiting my parents in upstate New York. Mom and I had on our agenda a “day out” to ourselves, one just like the old days. To us that meant planning a jaunt to a nearby destination such as the Hudson Valley region, southern Vermont or the Berkshires in western Massachusetts, all scenic and fairly rural destinations within about an hour’s drive of my parents’ house in Troy, New York. These were the places we would travel to throughout the years, especially when I was growing up. Together we would marvel at the pastoral landscapes while chitchatting the day away. Lunch, a bit of shopping and often a museum visit were all key components of a successful day trip, the perfect female bonding experience for two gals living in a house full of men. (I grew up with five brothers, a father and no sisters.)
It was during these joyous excursions that my love for unique places full of personality and charm emerged. I could hardly tolerate department stores or malls when I was a girl and still have a hard time with them today. Yes, these trips to soulful sites full of history and tradition planted the seeds for the shopping service I founded in Paris some years later and the four books I came to write on shopping and touring in Paris and the French provinces. My philosophy is and always will be about the whole shopping and touring experience—it’s not so much about what you buy, it’s about how and where you buy it and what you learn along the way. Truth is, I’m not even a big advocate of buying, but we all do, so why not have it be something special that you’ve procured in a memorable manner?
This special day to ourselves was more challenging to organize since we don’t leave my eighty-five-year-old Dad alone much any more. With a hearty, microwavable meal prepared in advance at the ready, cell phones listed in plain site and the reassurance that his Life-Alert was in working order, we said “Hasta la Vista,” knowing full well that we’d all appreciate the much-needed time away from each other.
The Berkshires won out this time, mostly since I expressed a keen desire to visit the new Norman Rockwell Museum. (New is relative since this current, more expanded showcase of this great American illustrator’s works and more opened in 1993. My Mom and I had visited the original Norman Rockwell Museum a couple of times decades ago, but we had not had the opportunity to find our way to this part of western Massachusetts in years. Hey, what can I say? France and Colorado have been my focus throughout most of my adult life.)
Norman Rockwell Museum (exterior). Photo by Art Evans. ©Norman Rockwell Museum. All rights reserved.
On this gorgeous Indian Summer day, we set out for Stockbridge, Massachusetts along the Mass Pike, a leisurely drive that revealed the most beautiful fall colors of my whole ten-day October trip home. We were hitting it at its best, an especially fortunate occurrence for me since I had also taken in the peak foliage of the Rockies just before I left Colorado. The bursts of russet, crimson, bittersweet and dark yellow on the long, loaf-y Berkshire Hills furnished quite a different autumnal tableau from the orangey-golds that flank our snow-capped, towering peaks. Indeed, this part of the country appears older and more steeped in tradition than the mighty West.
The Red Lion Inn: The Place for Lunch
After a short tour along a meandering road off the highway, we arrived at Stockbridge, surely one of the most picturesque villages in all of New England. With a Main Street scene that appears fresh out of a storybook, it’s no wonder Norman Rockwell chose to live here the latter part of his life and to feature many of the town’s buildings and residences in his works. Mom and I headed directly for The Red Lion Inn, one of our all-time favorite places to lunch. As one of the few continuously operating inns in the country since the 1700s, you can bet that coming here plunges you into a marvelous immersion of Colonial America.
We were happy to be seated right away in their glorious dining room filled with leaf peepers from all over the world. (We even met one couple from Australia.) Mom and I happily settled in to this regal setting replete with red floral carpet and wallpaper, white tablecloths and collections of teapots and coffee pots adorning the walls. “I love how everything is so clear and sparkling,” my mother remarked. Indeed, it was nice to see that it was as lovely and grand as I had remembered it from many years ago. Mom and I calculated that it had in fact been eighteen years since we last lunched at The Red Lion Inn. It seemed hard to believe as we both commented that we hoped it wouldn’t be another eighteen before a return visit.
“I’d be ninety-six then,” my Mom piped up. A bitter-sweet comment since I felt a tweak of sadness that she would be that old but was also happy that she considered living that long, something she balked at in years past.
“Well, you might not be driving then, Mom,” I replied. “But I’d be happy to chauffeur you here.” We laughed since in all of our forays, Mom has always been the driver and I’m the navigator, at best.
We savored every spoonful of our New England Clam Chowder, followed by salads, a Caesar for my mother, a Frisée, Radicchio and Spinach for me. People around us feasted on hand-carved turkey sandwiches, Indian Pudding, Roasted Pumpkin Crème Brulée and other tempting offerings. We passed on dessert and padded out to peruse the Inn’s fine furnishings and outstanding collection of china up close. Being cat lovers, we also gave Simon, the Inn’s resident kitty, a few good pets.
The Red Lion Inn in Fall: A Veritable Pumpkin and Gourd Fest
We poked around The Red Lion Inn Gift Shop and then looked next door at An American Craftsman Gallery and Stockbridge General Store, a charming old cache of goods loaded with everything from horehounds (one of Mom’s favorite candies) to hand-dipped beeswax candles, hand thrown pottery and much, much more. As we creaked over the wooden floor, commenting on the various tchotchkes, it truly felt like old times. Perhaps the only thing different was that we were moving slower and buying less. I guess that’s what happens with age and wisdom!
The “Four Freedoms” gallery at Norman Rockwell Museum. Photo courtesy of Berkshire Visitors Bureau. All rights reserved.
Another short, scenic drive landed us at the Norman Rockwell Museum—finally! I walked in here with my mouth gaping nearly as wide as it had when I first laid eyes on his magnificent paintings. So many of them came back to me although in this new, more airy space they’re better displayed. Here they’re featured with extensive explanations that tell the story of each of Mr. Rockwell’s marvelous works, his picture-perfect glimpses of life in America. We also appreciated this new space for the well-placed seating areas that invite you to sit and contemplate the paintings, drawings and illustrations until you’re ready to move on. Closing time came all too fast, but I was still able to dart around the Museum’s campus to take in more idyllic Berkshire Hills views and to glimpse at the artist’s original studio that had been moved here from Stockbridge. I then blasted downstairs of the museum to watch the ten-minute video on Norman Rockwell’s life while admiring the extraordinary display of his renowned The Saturday Evening Post covers on display in the same room. Mom scoured the gift shop during that time until we both shuffled out of the museum with the last of the day’s stragglers.
Photo by Sarah Edwards. ©Norman Rockwell Museum. All rights reserved.
Norman Rockwell’s original Stockbridge studio (exterior). Photo by Art Evans. ©Norman Rockwell Museum. All rights reserved.
We took the back roads home winding through more fall foliage-festooned villages than we could count. Colorado isn’t as big on Halloween decorations, perhaps because the snow and cold arrives so early, so I delighted in all the goblins, pumpkin patches and scarecrows along the way. We only stopped once and that was for another northeastern tradition of sorts that we like to share together: a coffee shake from Friendly’s. The trip had been a triumph—mother and daughter enjoyed time together while giving father a break. We recounted our day’s doings to Dad upon our return and he did the same about his day with us.
Now that my father heard our raves about The Red Lion Inn and the Norman Rockwell Museum, I can only hope that my parents find their way there together in the not-too-distant future. Day trips do a world of good, even if you break out of the mother-daughter equation.
The Red Lion Inn, 30 Main Street, Stockbridge, 413-298-5545.
Norman Rockwell Museum, 9 Route 183, Stockbridge, 413-298-4100.
An American Craftsman Gallery, 36 Main Street, Stockbridge, 413-298-0175.
Stockbridge General Store, 40 Main Street, Stockbridge, 413-298-3060.
Thank you to the Norman Rockwell Museum and the Stockbridge Chamber of Commerce and Kevin Sprague for the images in this post.
Note the fall colors appeared to be late this year in the East, supposedly due to all the rain they had and few frosts. So I’m sure there’s lots of great leaf-looking to be enjoyed in New England. Holiday time is also very special there as well.
Check out Cape Cod, Cranberries and the Creation of Ever-Lasting Memories to read about another memorable New England fall trip, that time with both Mom and Dad.
Colorado Denver Hotels Restaurants Travel: Colorado Denver Hotels Restaurants Travel
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Teatime with Dad at Denver’s Brown Palace Hotel
Exquisite Treats at Denver's Brown Palace
Travel is often most rewarding when you step out of your comfort zone, when you do something you’ve never done before. This can mean zooming on a zip-line in the jungles of Costa Rica or just sipping tea at a fancy hotel. I’ve done the latter countless times but it became a more novel experience nearly a year ago when I found myself sharing afternoon tea at The Brown Palace, Denver’s legendary hotel, with my father.
We were together in Denver on our way back east after he’d spent time in his beloved West. At eighty-four years old, those trips have been curtailed from the days when he’d spend weeks on end skiing in Aspen. But still, we’ve all tried to make sure he gets his Colorado fix even if he has to be “accompanied” throughout most of his travels these days.
So this is how we came to find ourselves together in such a fine hotel, such a grand setting. Dad’s more of a chain hotel person that likes to take his coffee at Dunkin’ Donuts or Starbucks. I prefer fancier locales with more ambiance. We’ve gone his route many times in the past but since we were in Denver, you can bet I was itching to visit one of my favorite destinations. Lucky for me we found ourselves nearby after a tour at Denver’s U.S. Mint on a dreary November day that commanded a warm pick-me-up.
La Pièce de Résistance
I ushered Dad into the well-appointed and expansive atrium of The Brown Palace where people have taken tea for over a century and was glad to see that he was settling in without much resistance. I could tell though that he wasn’t entirely at ease in what he surely perceived as fussy surroundings; yet he seemed open to trying something new, especially since he knew that coming here together would make me happy. His demeanor turned more to shock and awe, however, when he studied the menu and discovered that The Brown Palace Signature Tea was priced at $29. “This is outrageous, Bethie,” he exclaimed.
I explained that that price includes a pot of properly brewed tea of your choice, accompanied by scones served with Devonshire cream and preserves, savory tea sandwiches and a delightful array of classic tea pastries. He listened intently but still didn’t seem convinced. I reassured him that he’d love it, suggested we order one Signature Tea to split (for the treats) and that he have his coffee on the side. We settled into polite chit-chat and banter, the sort of light conversation you share in grandiose establishments or at elegant dinner parties.
Dad’s eyes widened when the tiered tray of delectables arrived. The server carefully poured his steaming coffee from a silver pot into a china cup after he had served me my tea. I watched my father take in every detail like a concerned parent keenly observing his child. We didn’t talk for the next few minutes while we settled into our sandwiches, the logical beginning of this late-afternoon repast. As I had hoped, Dad fell under the spell of such delicious food and drink, an observation that was confirmed when he commented on his “out-of-this-world” coffee. We slathered our scones with the thick clotted cream—a huge indulgence for my father who’s been a devotée of Smart Balance for years. The oohing and aahing truly began when we bit into the pastries, miniature marvels that looked and tasted divine. Dad felt more than content and happily payed the bill knowing that he had received more than his money’s worth, many times over.
We stopped into The Brown Palace coffee shop afterward and bought their signature Brown Palace Crown Jewel Black Tea Blend for me and a gift for Mom. Our visit had been an immense success.
This is one of many memories I’ve been clinging to throughout the year. I call them my emotional postcards and I knew when we stepped into the Brown Palace together that this would be filed away as a bright one. Today is Dad’s eighty-fifth birthday and it has been nearly a year since we’ve seen each other, too long to go at any age but especially at eighy-five. Fortunately I only have a couple days to wait since I’m headed east to see both my parents on Wednesday. I’ll be with them for a while and I’m sure lots of tea and coffee will be consumed but certainly none as special as our teatime together at Denver’s Brown Palace.
The Brown Palace Hotel & Spa, 321 17th Street, tel.: 303-297-3111.
Christmas teas are immensely popular at The Brown Palace, so much so, in fact, that people reserve months in advance. Read Viva Italia, Viva Italian Americans, Viva la Dolce Vita in Denver to learn more about what I have to say about The Brown Palace and holiday time in Denver.
Hotels Restaurants Romance & Relationships The Outer Banks Travel: Hotels Restaurants Romance & Relationships The Outer Banks Travel
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The Outer Banks: The Perfect Hideaway for a Travel Writer and a Hotel GM
Our Path to Paradise
Summer is on the wane. And if you’re like me, you’re looking forward to embracing fall while clinging to your favorite memories of summer. I shared my best trip this summer with my boyfriend, Steve, an overworked hotel general manager. It occurred late summer on the Outer Banks of North Carolina and it included everything you’d ever want from a great vacation. Yes, you guessed it! Just as Serge Gainsbourg sang in his late 1970’s hit “Sea, Sex and Sun,” we had all the key components of a perfect beach getaway.
Our First Dinner Out
More Wonderful Seafood from Awful Arthur's
Shucking Oysters: A North Carolina Speciality
Oh yes, we reveled in extraordinary surf, the main reason so many people love the Outer Banks. We also took immense pleasure in the beach throughout our entire stay. We feasted on seafood, lots of fried food, doughnuts and ice cream. (It is the South after all.) We savored swills of wine and frosty beers perched high on the dunes at sunset. We sipped tea together and marveled at the sunrise (they’re the best here) one morning when we managed to pry ourselves out of bed. We accompanied each other on long walks on the beach and drive-arounds to scout out the best surf spots of the day. We shopped for food, surf wax, salt water taffy and bikinis, potentially loaded forays that tested our togetherness, especially when the bikini was not found. We chilled in our modest—but wonderful—seaside apartment, cooking huge breakfasts, eating leftovers from our big nights out and listening to the Grateful Dead, Merle Haggard and other classic tunes. Our days were measured by the tides and the swells; our nights were punctuated by the moon and deep sleeps made possible by the incessant crashing of the surf outside our window. Either way, the presence of the wind and water lulled us into a continuous state of happiness, the sort of euphoric sense of well-being and relaxation that’s best achieved at the ocean or perhaps after a day on the slopes.
Just One of Countless Windswept Scenes
After my first visit to the Outer Banks two years ago, I wrote extensively about this magical place, but didn’t include a single address. And like the first time, I didn’t take a single note on this trip either. It was a vacation. Even travel writers need a vacation.
I can no longer, however, ignore my natural propensity to share travel information, even when it comes to the Outer Banks, my boyfriend’s special sanctuary that he’d prefer to keep to himself. There’s so much to chose from at this well-loved tourist destination that I’d like to point you in the right direction. The below establishments should prove to be a good start. We enjoyed them all and it’s my wish that you will, too.
And keep in mind that fall is a great time to visit the Outer Banks.
Days Inn Oceanfront Wright Brothers, Kill Devil Hills, 252-449-0827; they have houses, apartments and rooms for rent at reasonable prices right on the beach.
Awful Arthur’s Oyster Bar, Kill Devil Hills, 252-441-5955; we came here to feast on steamed clams, fried shrimp and fresh grilled flounder in our bathing suits (with coverups!) and flip flops. Now that’s a vacation!
Kelly’s Restaurant & Tavern, Nags Head, 252-441-4116; enjoy fine dining and a happening night life at this renowned OBX establishment.
Thank you to Three Dog Ink and Gulf Stream Creative for the use of the photos in this post.
Mike Kelly, Owner of Kelly's and Steve's Former Boss When He Was a Newbie to the Hospitality Industry
Kelly's Spread
Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Telluride The Rockies
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Great Rocky Mountain Decks: Spectacular Views Year-Round
Late Summer Fun: The Deck at 9545
Aah, that golden time of year. Yes, it’s quickly approaching—pretty much here in fact. The aspens are beginning to change and the sun is hanging low in the sky, casting long shadows and a flaxen glow on all that meets its warm embrace. We’ve had our first snows already high up on the peaks, sugar frostings that render our glorious autumnal panoramas all the more endearing. To many, this is the best time to be in the Rockies. Leaf peeping really goes off here, more than all those New England fall foliage goers could ever imagine. We’ll be in full splendor within the next couple of weeks.
The Pool Deck at Mountain Lodge Telluride
Partying at The Peaks
I’ve enjoyed a few spectacular decks here in Telluride all summer long: one at 9545, located within the Inn at Lost Creek, the other at the Great Room at The Peaks Resort & Spa, the other at Mountain Lodge Telluride. And it’s my plan to find myself out on them as often as possible during these upcoming weeks, basking in the halcyon days of fall in the Rockies, toasting myself in the Indian Summer warmth of southwestern Colorado. Sunsets here are the best and this being the mountains, these establishments are well-prepared for that chill in the air since a brigade of fireplaces and a battalion of heaters stand at the ready year-round. Yes, these folks know how to warm you up since seizing the great outdoors is really what it’s all about in the Rockies. Come winter, the decks at both 9545, the Great Room and Mountain Lodge abound with winter sports enthusiasts that just can’t get enough of our spectacular mountain views. Fortunately all three restaurants serve libations and food of the finest quality, necessary ingredients for keeping you well-fueled for hours.
Situated within the very heart of Telluride Mountain Village, the deck at 9545 draws a large, stylish crowd on Wednesday evenings throughout summer during the Sunset Concert series. It’s always a happening and I took full advantage of it this summer, showing up almost weekly at this Wednesday evening “mixer.” At the end of the summer, I came by for a celebratory lunch (for my b-day) with a friend and finished off a tasty meal consisting of a Cuban shaved ham and slow-cooked pork sandwich with a side of sweet potato fries. All this was topped off with a tequila chocolate mousse and my first fried Oreo. Truly decadent! And there’s no doubt the whole experience was enhanced tenfold by 9545’s tranquil mountain setting. Doesn’t everything taste better when dining al fresco?
One of Many Views from 9545
Winter Fun at The Peaks Deck
At the Great Room Deck, also located in Telluride Mountain Village, I savored the longest and most stunning sunset of the summer. Ensconced within the cushy banquettes of their expansive deck, laughing and partying with friends, we all ooed and aahed about the transformation of the evening sky for hours. O.K., the sensations might have been augmented by a handful of G & Ts but still, I’ll never forget that moment. And isn’t that what dining (and drinking) affairs are all about? Thankfully we had munched on some excellent apps that carried us well into nightfall. We all sunk farther into the couches to admire the flourish of stars in our clear Colorado sky. No doubt about it—this is where you can savor one of the best sunsets in the West.
All Set for a Blazing Good Time at The View
The pool deck at Mountain Lodge is the envy of most visitors to Telluride. They sail over it in the gondola as they travel from the Mountain Village Market and parking complex to the Village core. And then they pass over it on the way back, forever commenting about the allure of the deep blue pool and hot tub, the stunning lineup of teak tables and chairs, the fun people always seem to be sharing below. Sadly few realize that they, too, can experience this spectacular site—all part of Mountain Lodge’s restaurant and bar, aptly named The View—by popping in for lunch, afternoon drinks or dinner. Yes, indeed, this handsome deck, restaurant and bar is open to everyone in addition to the guests staying at the lodge. From the gondola you see that The View offers stunning vistas of the San Sophia Range, some of the most striking peaks in the region. Sit down and delight in a glass of Cab and one of the best burgers in T-ride. I assure you you’ll pass a moment that you’ll never forget.
Cosseted interiors with blazing fireplaces are a welcome relief on many a foul day and a necessity for most romantic evenings. But there’s nothing like a great deck that offers killer views. Here in Telluride, we’re well served.
9545 Restaurant & Bar at Inn at Lost Creek, 970-728-5678 and 888-601-LOST (5678); open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks.
Great Room Deck at The Peaks Resort & Spa, 970-728-789-6800 and 800-789-2220; open 11 a.m. to sunset. Call ahead to find out about their live entertainment.
The View at Mountain Lodge Telluride, 970-369-5000; open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. in the summer and for breakfast, après-ski and dinner in the winter.
Panorama of Part of the San Sophia Range from The View
Winter Sunset from the Great Room Deck
Check out my story, Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties, to find out about the deck at Avondale at the Westin Beaver Creek, one of the most happening spots in the Vail Valley.
Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping The Rockies: Hotels Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping The Rockies
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Peachy Keen on Palisade
The Real Deal: Peaches from Palisade, Colorado
Oh, those Colorado peaches. There’s nothing like them. I heard so much on national news this summer about South Carolina surpassing Georgia (in triple) as the peach capital of the United States, but nary a whisper about Colorado’s peaches. I waited until my recent trip back east—to North Carolina—to fully weigh in on America’s peaches. Well, just as I suspected, the south doesn’t have anything on what we have here in the Rockies. I’m talking about fat, flavorful peaches that explode with juice as soon as you slice into them. True peach enthusiasts bite into them and delight in their sweet nectar, a heavenly liquid that gushes out of your mouth and rolls down your chin until you wipe it off with the back of your hand, leaving only a wide grin behind. Those are our Colorado peaches, mostly from Palisade, a charming little town tucked between the Colorado River and red rocks, just outside of Grand Junction on the western slope.
I’ve been feasting on these peaches ever since I arrived in Colorado nearly ten years ago. I’d zoomed by Palisade many times on the Interstate without ever stopping. This summer though I made it my mission to check out the source of this delectable fruit, the provenance of so much of Colorado’s bounty including grapes, lots of other fine produce and more recently, lavender. Indeed, I discovered an air of Provence in this incredibly hot and arid climate, made lush by a vast array of irrigation systems, some dating back to when the first pioneers settled here about a hundred years ago.
My friend, Fran, and I scouted out the little town of Palisade first off since the day was waning and we wanted to suss out a good place for dinner. The shops were already closed by then, a welcome relief of sorts since we both felt that we could have dropped a bundle at A Peachful Place, a quaint and colorful little shop filled with vintage bric-a-brac and other random treasures. We stood in front of it, peered into its windows and drooled. Then we popped in next door at the Palisade Cafe and Grill to inquire about dinner. When we learned that they only had one piece of peach pie left and that they stopped serving at 8 p.m., we decided to inspect another dining establishment in town, the Red Rose Cafe. A peek in here assured us that we didn’t have to rush and that we’d be able to dine here after eight.
Orchards Backdropped by the Famous Book Cliffs
As much as we were charmed by the quaintness of Palisade—punctuated by wine barrels brimming with flowers—we were especially enamored with the Palisade Fruit & Wine Trail, a country road that winds through the orchards and vineyards. It felt as though we had found Colorado’s own little Napa Valley, albeit more rustic yet to me, just as enchanting in a western sort of way. Just off this bucolic route, we found the Dreamcatcher Bed and Breakfast, our destination for the night. Julie, a retired librarian who claimed her little wedge of paradise here a few years ago, greeted us with the warmth of a blazing Colorado sun. Instantly, Fran and I felt as though we’d landed in a country retreat. Still there was no time for dilly-dallying since this being the country, we knew the restaurants would be shuttered soon enough.
There was no peach pie at the Red Rose Cafe but Fran did seem to enjoy her chicken laden with an almond and peach sauce. I chose something more classic. We ate well although I think we were more taken by the old-fashioned decor and feel of this establishment than what was in our plates. I decided that next time I’d try the Palisade Cafe.
I woke up the next morning to Fran’s chatting with Julie. I often pass on B & Bs since sometimes I find the “closeness” of the B & B experience too invasive. But here with Julie, I felt right at home. So much so, in fact, that I came to breakfast in my pajamas and feasted on her delicious scrambled eggs, fruit of her morning’s tour through her chicken coop. Never had I tasted eggs so fresh. We talked and laughed over coffee and sliced peaches until it became time to move on.
Julie and Her Chickens
We hit a couple of farm stands, stocking up on peaches, peach salsa, peach jam, peach syrup and other homegrown and homespun goods until there was little room left in the car. We were tempted to check in on The Lavender Lady and Friends, a shop on Main Street in Palisade, where we were sure we’d do great damage but refrained.
We were already making our list for the next visit—this was just a reconnaissance trip. Yes, indeed there are many festivals to attend in Palisade beginning with the Lavender Festival in July, the Peach Festival in August and the Colorado Mountain Winefest in September. There are wineries to visit and bicycle rides to be enjoyed. Next time, too, I’ll fill up the car with produce, especially if I get in on the last big harvest of the season.
I’m sure fall is a lovely time in Palisade and I’ve been told that depending on the frost, they have peaches until early October. I might just get that peach pie after all.
A Palisade Tableau
Dream Catcher Bed and Breakfast, 3694 F Road, 970-464-9900
Palisade Cafe & Grill, W Third Street, 970-464-0657; open breakfast, lunch and dinner most days.
Red Rose Cafe, 235 Main Street, 970-464-7673
This year the Colorado Mountain Winefest begins today, September 15 and goes through Sunday, September 18. Go to Palisade Tourism and the Palisade Chamber of Commerce for more information.
Thank you to Jim Cox and Julie Commons for the above photos.
Food & Wine Hotels Restaurants Telluride The Rockies: Food & Wine Hotels Restaurants Telluride The Rockies
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Great Deals for Public Radio: Summer 2011
It'll be Dumping Before You Know It!
If you don’t know about my Travel Fun radio show, please tune in live one of these Tuesdays. Or you may listen to some of my past interviews that I’ve posted as podcasts.
Now for the enticing travel deals to Telluride, Aspen and Denver, Colorado. I’ve highlighted below what you can snatch up in exchange for a pledge; just e-mail me through my Contacts Page to lock in your travel premium. (You can also go there to sign up for my RSS feed and/or to receive bi-monthly Travel Fun announcements. Be sure to provide all your contact information including phone and address (e-mail as well as snail mail, please) and your desired prize. Know that I’m accepting pledges on a first come, first serve basis, so act fast. Once your pledge is accepted and you’ve paid KOTO, you will receive your gift certificate for your chosen premium.
TELLURIDE
Inn at Lost Creek at Twilight
$40. pledge: Pick up a $50. gift certificate for apps or dinner at Allred’s, Telluride’s iconic mountaintop restaurant. Read what I have to say about this top spot at Three, Men, Three Telluride Mountain Village Restaurants.
ASPEN
The Luminous Limelight Lodge
$150. pledge: Score a two-day lift ticket good for any four Aspen/Snowmass mountains, approximate value $210. I’ve written lots of stories on Aspen/Snowmass on my blog—just type in Aspen/Snowmass in my search or go to my Skiing & Snowboarding category.
DENVER
Cooking with Chef Elise
$75. pledge: Treat yourself (or someone else) with a $100. gift certificate to Randolph’s, the signature restaurant at Warwick Denver Hotel. Check out my story Summerime and the Livin’ Is Easy at the Denver Warwick Hotel.
Please note that some restrictions may occur on the above.
Thank you to the above hotels and restaurants as well as to the Aspen Ski Company for their generous donations to KOTO. I’m a big fan of all of them and I encourage you to patronize them at every opportunity.
