Bonjour Colorado

Great Online Boutique Recommendations: Valentine’s 2010

If you’re a woman, you’re likely thinking your gift to your hunny will be a fresh bikini wax—for you, not for him! But still, as much as he’ll appreciate that, you’ve got to come up with something more. Why not offer him some chocolates? Or even better, Vodka? Telluride provides some of the best of both and Bonjour Colorado readers enjoy discounts from our mountain town’s top-of-the-line purveyors, Telluride Truffle and Telluride Vodka.  Type in promo code Paris 10 in the Redeem Coupon Box to receive a 10% discount on Telluride Truffle online orders.  Mention Bonjour Colorado to Telluride Vodka to receive $5. off every bottle you purchase.

Alpine-Inspired Scarves and Scarf Ornaments from Alpen Schatz

Alpen Schatz, another authentic Telluride boutique, is also offering a special 10% discount to BonjourColorado readers; just type in Bonjour upon check out.  I love their Italian silk scarves embellished with heart scarf ornaments, just the sort of ever-lasting Valentine’s Day keepsake I’d gift to myself.  Who can beat hearts and flowers anyway?  Plus all the scarves are awash with edelweiss, an alpine flower that symbolizes happiness.

Chocolate Financiers from Patisserie Colson

Looking to satisfy zee French in you, your lover, brother or mom?  Go directly to Patisserie Colson to shop for tins of refined sweets that will delight your most discerning gourmands.  Their financiers and rugelach serve as the perfect accompaniment to a pot of strong tea or hot chocolate.

If you want to conjure up memories of the beach, think salt water taffy.  Forbes Candies has been wrapping their sweets in sea breeze and sunshine since 1933.  I discovered them on a trip to Virginia Beach last fall and each time I nibble on a piece of their salt water taffy, I’m transported back to the sand and the surf of the Atlantic. Other specialties include fudge and brittle, both of which come in a ship’s cargo-load of flavors.  Enter Bonjour at check out to receive a 15% discount on orders of $30. or more.

For those particular to specialized poufing and pampering, you’ll love the natural products and remedies made by Kneipp.  From Arnica Revitalizing Spray to Lavender Balancing Herbal Bath to Almond Blossom Dry Skin Body Oil, Kneipp has created many extraordinary products that promote a holistic approach to finding good health and well being.  Now that’s what I call a gift of love.  No wonder they’ve been around since 1891.

And I bet you never imagined you could experience so much tradition and savoir faire with online shopping.

Oh, and don’t forget to include that special love note, even if the gift is for yourself.

Great Online Boutique Recommendations-Holiday Season 2009

Telluride Truffle: The Best Cookies for Santa in the World

What? You’ve done all your shopping? Lucky you! Well, I’m sure you can still find a few tasty treats below for your holiday feasts.

But if you’re at all like me, you’ve barely put a dent in your shopping. So I’m here to help. Plus it’s cold across much of the country and the parking lots are beginning to fill up at the mall, so why not settle in and visit my hand-picked selection of charming Internet boutiques?

Old Chatham Sheepherding Company: It's Nice to Know the Provenance of Your Cheeses

This year’s lineup once again favors many delectable food items that make great gifts for your friends and loved ones. (And don’t forget yourself!) Let’s start with cheese, typically the last course in France before dessert but here in America we eat it at all different times. I like fresh, artisanally-made cheeses that are good enough to be the focal point of a meal composed of just bread, salad, cheese and wine. No processed food here. I was thrilled to re-connect recently with the wonderful cheeses from Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, an exceptional cheesemaker not far from my roots in upstate New York. Made from fresh sheep and cow’s milk, their award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert, melts in your mouth. Be sure to order their Ewe’s Blue, made in the Roquefort style, and these wonderful whole wheat Petits Toasts that they also sell that go so well with any kind of cheese.  (Love their nutty flavor!)  Consider their sheep’s milk yogurts as well. If you’re not a fan of all those sugary yogurts available in the market, you’ll love Old Chatham’s slightly sweet, ever-so refined yogurts that come in a variety of flavors including maple and ginger. Type Bonjour Colorado into the gift message section to receive your 10% discount.

Coach Farm Goat Cheeses

For the Cheese Lover in Your Life

Let’s not forget the goats. I recently discovered Coach Farm, a company specializing in goat’s milk cheeses and yogurts. Situated within the Hudson Valley, this purveyor supplies many of the top restaurants of New York. One taste and you’ll understand why. Their goat’s milk yogurt, made with live active cultures, just might become your tasty health remedy for 2010. Be sure to visit their Web site as well for many terrific recipes. Coach Farm also produces fresh and aged heart-shaped goat cheeses for Valentine’s Day; these must be pre-ordered by December 30th. Who ever thought cheese could be so adorable?  Call and mention Bonjour Colorado to receive free shipping.

Contact Vermont Butter and Cheese Company for your most refined creamery needs such as mascarpone, fromage blanc and sea salted cultured butter, a near delicacy that enhances any repast tenfold. They offer fine goat cheeses as well along with an extraordinary crême fraîche, a must for any serious cook’s fridge. I love adding a dollop of this most flavorful cream to my puréed winter soups.

Prime Meats from Lobel's

You must select some nice wines to accompany your extraordinary plateau de fromages. But let’s not break the bank. I have found some lovely ones, from Blackstone Winery, that represent an excellent price/quality relationship. Their Sonoma Reserve Merlot 2007 typically retails for $19.99 and their SonomaReserve Chardonnay 2008 rings in at $14.99.  For something more celebratory, seek out some sparkling from Cupcake Vineyards, bubbly wines (Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay and Brut Rosé Pinot Noir), from the Loire Valley of France.  They, too, are exceedingly affordable at $15.99 per bottle.  Don’t you just love the name?  Sounds like they’re another must for those looking to inject a little more romance into their lives.

Don’t know what to give that special man on your list?  How about sending him a package of steaks?  Don’t go ordinary though.  Check out the offerings at Lobel’s of New York, purveyors of dry-aged steaks, USDA prime and more gourmet items since 1840.  They, too, have some delicious recipes on their site.

Telluride Vodka: Spirit of Our Mountains

Here’s another great gift idea for guys although gals have been raving about it, too.  Order a bottle of Telluride Vodka, a spirit made from corn and our pristine mountain waters of T-ride.  Its taste is as refined as its packaging.  Contact Brad and mention Bonjour Colorado to receive $5. off every bottle you purchase.

The holidays would not be truly festive without chocolate.  Telluride Truffle still gets my vote as the finest chocolatier of the Rockies and their packaging is so gifty that you know receiving anything from this fine purveyor of treats will make anyone smile.  I’m crazy for their cookies, which, loaded with almonds, pecans, raisins and Belgian chocolate chips, strike a yummy combo between crunchy and chewy.  Type in promo code Paris10 in the Redeem Coupon Box to receive a 10% discount on online orders.

Alpen Schatz is another Telluride institution of sorts.  Owner Mary Dawn DeBraie showcases alpine treasures, superior quality products from the Alps that integrate the mountain spirit into our lives in her Telluride boutique and online store.  From handmade Swiss belts and dog collars, to boiled wool hats from Austria to hand finished silk Italian scarves, Alpen Schatz offers an array of original gift ideas for men, women, teens and children.  Can’t go wrong with Old World charm and tradition. Type in Bonjour upon check out to receive your special 10% discount.  Click on the play button below to hear Mary Dawn talk about Alpen Schatz.

Alpine-Inspired Silk Scarves from Alpen Schatz

Imperial Torte from Vienna

Telluride Gift Baskets rounds up many artisan-style food items in Colorado including jerky, jams, honeys, mustards and more.  If you mention Bonjour Colorado, you’ll receive a complimentary Chocolove candy bar with your order.

Looking for the nec plus ultra in gift giving this year?  Send a Viennese Imperial Torte to the globetrotting chocolate-lover in your life.  Confectioned from mocha cream, sandwiched between six crispy layers, and then surrounded by an exquisite marzipan and enrobed in dark chocolate, these jewel-like creations are shipped directly to you from Hotel Imperial in Vienna.  The packaging alone transports you to this elegant city where refinement and tradition reign supreme.  And if you don’t wait too long, there’s still time to order for Christmas deliveries.

Still in search of something unusual, perhaps a collectible that won’t be gobbled up in one meal?  I discovered The Autograph Source on a recent trip to Aspen and have become a fan of both their boutique and online store ever since.  Do peruse it—it’s great fun.  You can find all kinds of cool stuff from one of Eric Clapton’s guitars, signed by “the man” himself to an autographed photograph of President Obama. Mention Bonjour Colorado to receive your 10% discount here.

Eric Clapton's Signed Guitar from The Autograph Source

Are you still in search of something out of the ordinary, a fun and totally affordable little gift idea?  Why not gourmet sea salts?  In flavors such as lavender rosemary, bloody mary,  niçoise olive and cherry pistachio, Secret Stash Sea Salts will turn you on to something new.  And if you really want to express yourself in your gifting, go for the coconut or almond cardamom.  Now that’s what I calling adding some zest to life!

I’d like to round out my recommendations with two French favorites:  Spirit of Provence and Quel Objet. The Provençal olive oil imported by Spirit of Provence has been flying off the shelves of the finest boutiques in Aspen and Vail.  (Yes, Margie, the owner, is a Coloradan, based in Boulder.)  Check out her Provençal pottery, too.  You’ll find French gift ideas galore at Quel Objet including superior quality tea towels and tablecloths, lovely soaps and creams, French market baskets and bouquets garnis, perfect for stews and soups, which you’ll find you can’t live without.

I think magazine subscriptions always make for great gifts, especially if you match the right publication to the right reader.  I have two favorite publications about France that I enjoy receiving:  France Today and France Magazine.  They’re both offering special holiday gift subscriptions for Bonjour Colorado readers. France Magazine will include a free issue with every gift subscription; click here and type in PRO7G.  Click here for France Today and enter promo code CORP09 to receive 20% off.  They also publish France-Amérique, a publication in French (great for honing your French language skills).  Click here for that subscription and be sure to enter the CORP09 code to receive your 20% discount.

Since I’ve simplified your shopping, I hope you’ll be able to find some time to read a few of my many stories about travel, beauty, shopping, food and wine and more here on my blog.  Shopping needn’t be so tiresome.

Visit my Shopping Page to read more about some of my favorite purveyors.

Baaaa-est Tidings from All of Us!

Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas

Capella Spa Telluride: Better Than What the Romans Could Imagine

Hmmmm. There’s nothing like spa-going after a day in the mountains. Whether you’ve been out skiing, hiking or just wandering around taking in the sites, a visit to a spa in the mountains seems so much more deserved, so much more of a must. Maybe it’s the contrast of the rugged scenery and the high altitude sun with the soothing interiors of such cosseted spaces.  At elevations of close to 10,000 feet, the spa experience is indisputably enhanced tenfold. And if you’re lucky enough to find yourself sitting in a heated pool or a hot tub with snowflakes falling gently down around you, you’ll truly understand why spas and mountain destinations go together like robes and slippers. (My favorite visual is one of steam billowing up from outdoor heated pools and tubs, a common occurrence throughout winter and most summer evenings at spas in the mountains. When you’re in the middle of that misty scene, you can’t help feeling otherworldly.)

In Telluride, we’re truly spoiled. Maybe it’s because our mountains are so mighty that we boast such heavenly spas, super luxurious enclaves housed within the finest hotels of Telluride Mountain Village, the heart of the ski area. The little known secret is that you can enjoy these superlative spas for the price of a treatment or in some cases a day pass: Access to them is not reserved exclusively for their hotel guests.

Indoor or Outdoor at The Peaks? Why Not Both?

I wasn’t in Telluride long before I descended upon the Spa at The Peaks Resort, by far the largest and most impressive of all the Telluride spas. (Actually the Spa at The Peaks Resort ranks as one of the finest in the Rockies—-even in the country. It’s consistently the recipient of many recognitions including Spa Finder magazine’s 2009 Reader’s Choice Award in Best for Winter Sports.) Magnificent panoramic views of some of the most spectacular mountains of the Rockies grab you here, so much so, in fact, that even the locals that frequent this vast facility delight in the vistas provided at The Peaks.

I’m a black liner—that’s to say I love doing laps, swimming end to end, entirely transfixed on the black line at the bottom of the pool. This is what draws me to the Spa at The Peaks on a somewhat regular basis and when I’m there I also love reveling in their many relaxation options from lounging poolside (indoor and outdoor) to soaking up the heat in the sauna and in the steam. Their fitness room—outfitted in the finest state-of-the-art equipment—has unfortunately eluded me so far. I took a yoga class there once—just the antidote for too many days of skiing—but I have not made it back to anymore of those wonderful sessions nor the pilates and spinning they offer either. I guess I’m just part fish, yet some day soon I’ll give the rest more of a try. Oh, how I envy the tourists that come here and don’t have to worry about trotting back to their desks.

The Coed Sauna at The Peaks: The Place to Go After the Pool with Your Hunny Of Course

I’ve had a number of treatments at the Spa at The Peaks over the years and certainly my spray tanning session ranks among the most memorable. The others have all been incredibly relaxing and healing. Perched at some 9,500 feet, many of the treatments here focus on the restoration and nourishment of your skin; indeed you’ll find some of the best skincare products and estheticians in the country nestled in to this sunny mountain spa. I experienced an ISUN facial recently, one of the newer additions to the spa’s menu of treatments. A seemingly endless variety of these 100% organic skincare products were expertly applied for the cleansing, exfoliation and hydration of my skin. The aromatherapeutic benefits were extraordinary and afterward my skin felt revitalized, moist and fresh. Concocted in our own backyard, not far from Telluride, these nationally-recognized ISUN products, are on sale in The Peaks Spa Boutique along with a bundle of other spa goods including workout clothing and scented candles.

One of Many Fireplaces to Choose from at The Himmel Spa at The Franz Klammer Lodge

If you’re looking for a cozier, more European-inspired setting, book an appointment at The Himmel Spa at The Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge. I love the warm, wood, chalet-inspired décor here. Be sure to leave plenty of time to enjoy the spa’s indoor and outdoor hot tubs. And I suggest you sit and sip a cup of tea at the snuggly fireplace nook located at the Lodge’s reception area. That’s truly Old World elegance at its finest. The massage therapists here—especially Darren and Marianne—are among the best. For further relaxation and revitalization, add an Oxygen Service to your treatment. I found it lovely to sit and breathe in copious amounts of O2 before my massage, but you can also enjoy supplemental oxygen throughout your whole treatment. Wow, that’s what I call mountain therapy! Leave time to shop for a wide range of healing therapies and fun togs in The Himmel Spa Boutique.

Soaking and Shopping at The Himmel Spa

Envelope yourself in earth-toned luxury at the Capella Spa, the newest addition to Telluride’s bastions of beautification and well being. The look here is one of subdued elegance, just like the Capella Hotel and Resort itself. It will surely make you want to speak in hushed tones and tiptoe around their indoor pool. I’m dreaming of savoring a cinnamon-dusted hot chocolate, sitting in my robe and slippers on their outside deck overlooking the slopes.

Spa Treatment Suite at Capella Spa, Fabuleux!

As for the Capella Spa services, know that most of the dimly-lighted treatment rooms boast a private steam shower. Truly this is an establishment that prioritizes intimacy and supreme relaxation. Looking for something that is the ultimate après ski experience? Try a Fire and Ice Pedicure. Your feet will love you. The combination of hot stone massage, cooling menthol lotion and warm booties will set you right for another fantastic day on the slopes. These special shea butter booties are sold in their spa boutique along with an array of other up-to-the-minute products including vegan nail polishes, paraben-free creams, yoga mats and lots of other irresistible treats.

Shopping for the Holidays and a Brand New You for 2010 at Capella Spa Boutique

Have I convinced you yet? Spa-going in the mountains is truly the best. It’s so good that I suggest you set aside at least a few hours to fully benefit from all that is offered. Soaking and shopping alone takes over an hour! It’s all so good that you might even want to take a day off from your mountain activities to fully enjoy it all. Just don’t say I said so.

The Peaks Resort & Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, 970-728-6800, www.thepeaksresort.com

Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge, 567 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-728-3318 and 888-728-3318, www.fairmont.com/klammerlodge

Capella Telluride, 568 Mountain Village Boulevard, 970-369-0880, www.capellatelluride.com

Cape Cod, Cranberries and the Creation of Ever-Lasting Memories

Cranberries: The Most Festive Holiday Fruit

Over the weekend I made a cranberry bread to finish off the package of cranberries left over from the cranberry relish I whipped up at Thanksgiving. Both the bread and the relish were made from my mother’s recipes; although tasty, sadly neither turned out as good as hers. I’ll blame it on the altitude, at least for the baking. The not-so crisp relish was more a result of the equipment. (How can a blender do as good of a job as a Cuisinart anyway?)

None of this really mattered though, since these roundish red berries transported me back to my mother’s kitchen, to my mother’s love and to an especially memorable trip I took this fall with my mom and dad. We had decided to take a three-day, two-night road trip to Cape Cod, Massachusetts from Troy, New York, a 240-mile journey that represented a considerable jaunt for anyone but even more so for our little group since the necessity of snack and bathroom breaks required frequent stopping. Mom did all the driving, a notable feat because the first part of our travels was marked by torrential rain and relentless fog. I surveyed the road from the backseat, providing little navigational input since my mom had traveled this route countless times before.

The purpose of our journey was twofold: to visit Eleanor, my mother’s best friend, and to have fun together. This was to be my first ever road trip with just my parents and me. I think we all secretly wished it would be special.

We decided to go low-budget with our lodging and spare no expense with dining out. We checked into The Santuit Inn toward the end of the afternoon the first day, hauled my dad’s 50-pound sleep apnea machine into his room and carefully settled him in so that his plethora of toiletries were close at hand. Mom and I bunked in farther down in this boutique motel that had recently been spiffed up with a cheery cottage-like decor. We nodded approvingly to each other about the striped and flowered bed coverings and took time to admire the Cape scenes that adorned the walls. I had already met Peter (pronounced Pee-tah here), the owner, upon arrival and felt confident we were in good hands.

Dad had little time to settle into his evening news programs, since my mother and I whisked him off to the historic Dan’l Webster Inn in nearby Sandwich for dinner. Here we opted for the Tavern, the more charming part of this renowned establishment distinguished by a huge fireplace, low ceilings, wood floors and paneling. We cozied up into the red leather booths and feasted on specialities such as seafood chowder and lobster pot pie. It was the end of the tourist season and the place was jamming, surely not an uncommon experience for this inn any time of the year, particularly if you arrive for their early evening special. We had missed the discounted dinners, however, since even at this stage of their lives, my parents were never big on dining early.

Mom and I were sure we’d zonk out for a big night’s sleep after such a day of travel. But as soon as we turned off the T.V. and found ourselves in the quiet of our room, we were astonished by the loud drone emanating from my dad’s room two doors away. “My God, is that his sleep machine?” I asked my mother. Neither of us could imagine that it sounded so loud. We were horrified.

“It sounds like we’re on a tarmac with jet engines idling,” I added. “We’re going to be kicked out of here. What if the other guests hear it like we do?”

“We’ve traveled before with it and it’s never gone off so loudly,” my mom said.

“I can’t believe dad can sleep through that,” I remarked.

“Oh, he’d sleep through anything,” my mom replied.

Both my mother and I laughed hysterically and then finally miraculously fell asleep. I awoke several times throughout the night fearful that someone was going to rap on the door and complain. Thank goodness Peter appeared so kind. I was also glad it was slow season and their weren’t many guests at the inn.

Day two was to be our big day. Dad and I began early next door at Persy’s Place, one of the best breakfast and lunch spots on the Cape. They have locations throughout the region and each is known for their homemade baked goods, in particular their famous cornbread. Mom was ready to go by the time we returned, perfectly turned out in her pumpkin-colored coat and autumnal scarf. Although we drove a seemingly endless amount of miles the day before, she was all set to slip behind the wheel again today. Fortunately the sun shone brightly.

Fall Reflections on a Cape Cod Pond

We took the scenic route to West Dennis where we pulled up to a little house at the edge of a pond once occupied by Maureen, another one of my mom’s dear friends. My mom had spent many visits here with her, sitting and chatting on the dock and also shopping and dining out in the area. Maureen had recently passed away, so it seemed fitting that my mom would make this pilgrimage to walk the grounds, gaze out upon the water and reflect fondly on the memory of her friend.

Dad sat in the car reading his papers while I accompanied my mother. I couldn’t help wondering what it must be like to reach an age when so many of your friends are gone.

Not one to let much get her down, my mom shepherded us through the wooded, windy roads of the Cape, pointing out her favorite haunts along the way. Neat little houses covered in weathered shakes displaying seemingly every shade of grey dotted the roadsides. Waning hydrangeas in a spectrum of faded blues, purples and pinks flaunted the last glimpses of summer, the golden light of fall casting shadows on their once exuberant bursts of color. We passed candle shops and Christmas stores galore, eateries named Captain Frosty’s and Seafood Sam’s. Large neon signs were clearly not allowed and I was delighted to see that even Dunkin’ Donuts sported a trim, wooden sign. Street signs such as Wysteria Lane, Cranberry Knoll and Pheasant Lane conjured up distinctly American fairy tale images. And there was no shortage of Native American names such as Pocahasett, Chapoquoit and Mashpee. Marshy wetlands separated brief stretches of low-lying houses trimmed with split rail fences.

Cranberry Bog

“Oh look, there’s a cranberry bog,” I shouted as I spotted a sea of bright red berries floating on a small body of water off to my right. “It must be harvest time.”

My mother and father didn’t comment but I sensed that they were marveling at this quintessential New England landscape as much as I. We had not seen any coastline yet but I was beginning to realize that all these meandering roads were most typical of the Cape where shoreline drives were in short supply. (At least at this part of the Cape; you’ll find more coastal roads on outer Cape Cod near Wellfleet, Truro and Provincetown.)

Finally we arrived in North Falmouth where we were to see Eleanor, my mother’s oldest and best friend of sixty-two years. I felt so close to her growing up that I referred to her as Aunt Eleanor. The three of us visited with Eleanor and her husband, Jim, for a while at their house before scooting off to lunch. After much discussion, we finally settled on Casino Wharf, an expansive restaurant in Falmouth Heights that furnished wide-open views of the Atlantic Ocean. I had been on the Cape for nearly twenty-four hours and yearned to see the sea. Here I got my fix. We feasted on fresh clam chowder, fish and chips and lobster salad, all delicious and perfectly accompanied by sips of iced tea, white wine and a martini for the bravest of our bunch. We laughed and reminisced until the wait staff re-entered for their evening shift. It had been more than three years since my mother had seen Eleanor, at least ten for me and neither my mom nor I knew when we’d be in the presence of this exuberant, fun-loving gal again. The lunch had been a huge success, the trip was well worth the effort. I had expressed to my mother that I was sorry we didn’t have any pictures to document our time together. She waved me off saying, “It’s just as well. We don’t look that terrific any more. It’s better to just hold on to the memories.”

The Ocean at Last! Viewed from the Falmouth Heights Ocean Road

I think about all this as I nibble on my cranberry bread. I wonder if my cranberries might have come from the many bogs we passed late October. Our little trip turned out to be an ode to fall, an ode to old people, an ode to friendship. Together we had created ever-lasting memories, lobster bisque, noisy sleep machine, slow walking, belly laughs and all.

The Santuit Inn, 6 Falmouth Road (Rte. 28), Mashpee, 508-428-6433, www.thesantuitinn.com; this neat-as-a-pin little place is conveniently located between Sandwich and Falmouth. The property is closed during the winter months, but keep it in mind for your Cape travels April through November.

The Dan’l Webster Inn & Spa, 149 Main Street, Sandwich Village, 800-444-3566 and 508-888-3622, www.danlwebsterinn.com

Persey’s Place, Rte. 28 between Rtes. 130 & 151, Mashpee, 508-477-6633, www.persysplace.com

Casino Wharf, On the Waterfront at 286 Grand Avenue, Falmouth Heights, 508-540-6160, www.casinowharf.weebly.com

The Regatta of Cotuit, 4631 Falmouth Road, 508-428-5715, www.regattaofcotuit.com; we also dined at this lovely restaurant housed in a two-hundred-year-old mansion next door to The Santuit Inn.

More Recommendations

The Coonamessett Inn, 311 Gifford Street, 508-548-2300, www.capecodrestaurants.org; had it not been for my burning desire to lunch with a view of the water, we would have selected this traditional New England inn for our special get-together.

Mashpee Commons, www.mashpeecommons.com; down the street from The Santuit Inn, you’ll find a fantastic selection of mostly high-end shopping and dining in this stylish outdoor mall.

Wrentham Village Premium Outlets, www.premiumoutlets.com; Peter suggested we visit this huge conglomeration of outlet stores, located just off of I 495 (on our way home), sixty miles from Mashpee. This is a great rainy day trip from the Cape and a destination trip in and of itself. It’s one of the nicest conglomerations of discounted stores that my mom has ever seen. And she has done a lot of shopping in her life! We went mainstream here (how can you not?) and had lunch at the Cracker Barrel. I definitely got my east coast fill all around.

Travel Suggestion
I found the traffic on the Cape—at least Upper/Mid/Lower Cape Cod—to be tiresome. (Keep in mind that I live in Telluride, Colorado, a remote part of the country and use the gondola most of the time for transportation.) Still, it is a bit much here and the roads are quite confusing. (Be prepared to get lost a fair amount.) To me, this is one more reason to enjoy this popular east coast destination during off season which runs from November through April or at least before the heavy summer crowds come in July. A lot of the Outer and Lower Cape and smaller properties close for the winter, but most of the Upper and Mid Cape establishments remain open. There’s still plenty open to focus on much of what the Cape is known for: shopping and dining.

For more stories about traveling with parents, go to My Saratoga and Adirondack Day Trip.

And Don't Forget the Turkeys!

East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks

The Outer Banks of North Carolina

Even travel writers need a vacation.  Everybody needs a break from their job even if their work is their passion.  That’s exactly what I did during my four days and nights on The Outer Banks of North Carolina.  I didn’t take a single note.  I didn’t scout out the best places of lodging, the most typical restaurants or everyone’s favorite dairy bar.  I didn’t come away with a single address, phone number or Web site.

My mind is imbued, however, with myriad images of a place that was once imagined and is now forever known.  I had envisioned a certain wildness about this immense slice of land that extends along the coast of North Carolina.  (The Outer Banks is actually a long, narrow string of barrier islands some two-hundred miles long.)  I found its untamed characteristics in its charging surf and along immense swathes of beaches best accessed by four-wheel drive vehicles with deflated tires.  I felt enchanted by the region’s cedar shingled houses on stilts despite the over proliferation of them in a good many areas.  Indeed the development of The Outer Banks has not always been kept carefully in check but it’s no wonder since much like on Cape Cod and in certain parts of Maine, the ocean roars for attention here drawing crowds from near and far.

Pick Your Beach

Lovely Cape Hatteras Lighthouse

Yet the beaches are so wide and vast that you can pick your way along the coastline and easily remain within your own little world.  I did this often on walks that skirted Cape Hatteras and fringed the surf of Rodanthe, both among the more charming areas on The Outer Banks yet also two of the more remote.  At Cape Hatteras I stood in awe in front of its black-and-white peppermint-striped historic lighthouse that has valiantly warned sailors about the treacherous sandbars that extend some fourteen miles out into the ocean for more than one-hundred years.  I collected shells and beach glass from both locales as well as others, marveling at the cleanliness of the beaches.  (It’s no wonder the coast is so free of debris, organic and otherwise, since not much can survive in this robust surf.)

It is these waves of six to eight feet in height that have made The Outer Banks the surfers’ paradise of the east coast.  Like seals bobbing in the water, it’s easy to spot a bunch of surfers out in the line up looking for that adrenalin-filled drop in the next tubing wave.  Never before had I paid much attention to this sport that decidedly requires an extremely strong combination of strength, endurance and strategy, perhaps more than in any other physical activity.  (I promise you that the fact that I had my eye on Steve, my handsome surfer dude, didn’t skew my impressions of the sport either.)

It was hard to imagine that Steve could love a place more than he loves the mountains.  But the surf definitely vies for his attention nearly as much.  He was drawn to The Outer Banks some two decades ago for its huge waves that break along this rugged coastline.  He has learned to navigate these waves well, paddling out to catch just the right swell, then climbing up onto his board for a seemingly painfully short ride before he begins all over again.  (Apparently the rewards are great since he tells me there’s no other sensation like it—in any other sport—when you catch and ride that wall of water.)  I would happily stand and watch this process over and over again until I set off for my stroll along the beach, a most agreeable rhythm that we established for ourselves that was repeated many times over during our time on The Outer Banks.

Find the Surfer

My introduction to the beach here came on a red-flagged, no swimming day that made Steve eager to get out and brave the surf.  My little stormrider proved fearless amongst the immense waves while I was afraid of going more than ankle deep in my walk along the beach.  (One has to be very careful of the undertow!)  Finally by the third day, I made an effort to muster up the courage to face the surf head on.  It occurred to me that I knew everything there is to know to go down (or at least get down!) a double black diamond ski run, but I didn’t have a clue about how to handle myself in such frightening waves.  Steve took my hand and showed me how to dive straight into the surf in order to break through to the other side.  What an achievement for me, someone that hasn’t spent much time in such big waves.  We bobbed and ducked amidst the swells for another fifteen minutes then headed back onto the beach to rest in the warm sand.  We stretched out together and marveled about the might of the ocean.

“You need to respect it much like the mountains,” Steve reminded me.

“Oh don’t worry, I do,” I reassured him.  I sighed and just laid there for a while.  “Now I feel like I really experienced The Outer Banks,” I remarked.  He smiled.

So what if I can’t name the best place for pancakes or fried shrimp.  There’s always a next time and by then—after more bouncing up and down in the surf—I’m sure I’ll feel like I will have earned the North Carolina bounty even more .

“The surfing scene on The Outer Banks isn’t about neon wetsuits, cool lingo or flashy stickers.  It’s about people that love nature, people that crave the surf,” says Steve Togni, my own surfer man.

Film Pick

“Nights in Rodanthe,” a romantic comedy set on The Outer Banks, starring Richard Gere and Diane Lane.  Bravo to Hollywood for having cast two great actors of un certain age for this love story.  I walked by this eery-looking house on my walk on the beach.

The House in "Nights in Rodanthe"