Playing in the Rockies: A Great Substitute for Going to the Mall

Gobbling up the Pow-Pow in Aspen on Thanksgiving

Gobbling up the Pow-Pow in Aspen on Thanksgiving

Whoa—what a holiday weekend it turned out to be here in the Rockies. While many of you were planted in front of your T.V.s watching football or trudging about the stores in search of Black Friday bargains, people were hitting the slopes hard all over Colorado. What a great way to burn off holiday indulgences! In Telluride, we had one of the best openings ever; and although only a limited amount of terrain was served up, conditions proved to be delectable. Aspen enjoyed an epic kick off to their season, punctuated by the Women’s World Cup races, an exciting FIS event that brings even more of an international crowd to this tony mountain town.

It seems as though the skiing has been bountiful all over the state and storms have begun to roll in to our part of the country like guests showing up for a holiday party. I’ve been scrambling to transition from travel writer’s mode to a well-prepared ski instructor ready to spend many hours out and about on the slopes with clients, no matter what weather or situation marks the day. It’s challenging but have no fear, the mountain conquers all!

Thank you to Jeremy Swanson for the above image.

It’s Dumping in the Rockies

Let it Snow!

Let it Snow!

As though right on cue, the big snows are arriving in the Rockies like a gathering of elves furiously putting the finishing touches on holiday preparations at the North Pole. Like kids on Christmas Eve, people in ski towns all across Colorado are suffering from ski fever as the pow pow accumulates outside our doors. The only release is to ski (or board!) and those lucky enough to get out are enjoying some of the best first tracks of the season.

Less than two weeks ago the sun shone brightly throughout most of Colorado as the thermometer displayed nearly springlike temperatures. Opening day in Telluride was as much about hanging out at the Hop Garden, a popular slopeside restaurant and bar, as stretching your legs on the slopes. Yet from Aspen to Vail to Crested Butte, all were eager to see some real snow. Even Sylvester, the cat, the lucky resident of the Sundeck, Aspen’s mountaintop restaurant, longed to see snow blowing outside his window. (Heck, if it’s cold and nearly winter in the mountains, it might as well snow!)

Sylvester, Aspen's Premiere Mountain Cat

Sylvester, Aspen's Premiere Mountain Cat

Our wish has been granted and clearly winter is rolling in with great force. Just in time, too. Here in Telluride we’re gearing up for the LG FIS Snowboardcross World Cup that kicks off shortly. World-class athletes have already begun to arrive, some earlier than originally planned since there’s apparently no snow in Europe. Wait ‘til they get a taste of the Champagne powder of the great American West.

Click here to see what winter is like in Telluride. You really must see this for its incredibly beautiful. Thank you to Ben Knight for capturing the magic of our awe-inspiring place.

Thank you also to Lisa Wilson for the top photo and Tom Watkinson for the one below.  Check out more of Lisa’s photos at Telluride Daily Photo and be sure to consider her 2010 calendar for holiday gifts.  I love her shots of life in Telluride.

End Note:  As I write this, I’ve had to reassure my kitties, Leo and Clara, that all is well.  They’re blasting outside, a good sign for everyone but cats.  I wonder how little Sylvester is surviving the avalanche control work in Aspen.  He’s surely hiding, especially since he’s known to only emerge before the rush, early in the morning and after lunch.

Also if you’re lucky enough to be in Telluride, stop by the Hop Garden today at 4 p.m. to meet the US Team athletes for poster signing and fun.

Steve and Me in Front of the Hop Garden on Opening Day

Steve and Me in Front of the Hop Garden on Opening Day

20 Oct 2009, 1:11pm
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Fall in Colorado: A Terrific In-Between Time of Year

Fall in Colorado: A Terrific In-Between Time of Year

Filling in in Aspen/Snowmass

Filling in Nicely in Aspen/Snowmass a Couple of Weeks Ago

I wrote glowingly about fall in the Rocky Mountains in Riding the Gondola, a story I posted this time of year last year. Now I’ll tell you about that funny in-between time just after most of the leaves have dropped and before most ski areas open, the period from mid October through Thanksgiving.

The bare aspens now blend into the mountainsides like bristly hairs on a crewcut. Golden cottonwoods along the rivers and russet red grasses and shrubs in the fields and on the slopes now punctuate this autumnal season. Dusted in white, the mountains stand steely grey awaiting the long, steady snowfalls that will soon accumulate. We already had a few, enough to know that winter is ready to barrel in. It’s usually snowy by Halloween in our mountain towns, Thanksgiving for sure.

Now officially off-season, lots of folks in the ski towns take off for a long break before the start of the season. The rest await anxiously the arrival of the big snows. Huge, barrel-shaped snow guns have already been placed strategically across slopes all over the Rockies. The blowing will soon begin and mother nature will be aided in the mission of creating the finest skiing in the West, indisputably the best in the world.

Loveland ski area officially opened a couple of weeks ago; they briefly closed since it had been unseasonably warm but are now open again. (Denver hit record-breaking highs in the eighties over the weekend after having had a snowed-out Rockies game a couple of weeks ago.)   A-Basin is open, too, and others will soon follow. I learned today that die-hard skiers have been hiking up to Silverton for some early season back country skiing. Copper Mountain is slated for a November 6 opening. And even if only a few runs are skiable, it’s still a great way to get out and have fun and begin to get in shape for the season. I’ve skied Wolf Creek early November as well at times when the whole mountain has been open, blanketed in deep powder the sort you’d expect in the dead of winter. No wonder they’re known to be the snowiest ski mountain in all of Colorado.

Like Aspen and many other resorts, we’ll open in Telluride at Thanksgiving. Time is sure to fly between now and then and there will be many people caught without their skis waxed or their bodies properly prepared. I began ski conditioning class yesterday and even after just one session, I can tell I have a long way to go before adequately strengthening my core and legs for the slopes.  (Boy, am I sore today!)  Yet everyone’s talking snow and the countdown has begun to opening day. Ski movies are playing in our small-town cinemas and the excitement is mounting day by day.

Now is the time to score some great bargains on everything skiing. Many of the resorts are still promoting pre-season pass and lift ticket deals (some offers valid until October 30). Terrific lodging specials are also available, especially if you book before November 15. Flush with brand new merchandise, many of the ski and snowboard shops continue to offer discounted prices. In T-ride, the KOTO Ski Swap, a one-day event that’s held annually in mid-November (this year on the 14th), draws crowds from neighboring mountain towns that clamor for new and used ski clothing and gear at killer prices.

In Case You Missed It:  Telluride Graces the Cover of October's Ski Magazine

In Case You Missed It: Telluride Graces the Cover of October's Ski Magazine

There’s anticipation in the air over this year’s turnout as well. But no one’s holding their breath too long since we know how important ski vacations are to people. They’re a great way for families, friends, guys and girls to get together and although ski holidays might not be totally recession proof, we know that this is where some of the best memories are forged. So it’s unlikely there will be too many breaks with tradition.

As for me, I can hardly wait for the season to begin. I have one more trip to take back east, then I hope to hunker down here in my beloved Colorado. My kitties are already in quasi hibernation mode which tells me that it’s time for me to park it as well. I’m excited about resuming my job as ski instructor in Telluride, the perfect antidote for too many hours at my desk and on the road. It’s also a great way to have and share fun with others.

Now it just has to start snowing.

Telluride Ski Resort Deals, http://tellurideskiresort.com/TellSki/hot-deals.aspx

Aspen/Snowmass Deals, http://www.aspensnowmass.com/travelinfo/package.cfm

Weekend Expectations

It’s often recommended not to have any expectations.  But how can you not when it comes to a weekend getaway?  I’m sure even guys think (O.K., fantasize) about  what they want out of a romantic weekend away.  That’s part of the fun.  Call it another form of travel planning.

I’m trying not to think too much about my plans for this weekend.  Yet still little glimmers of mostly romantic moments keep popping into my mind.  Let’s face it, even if it’s not fireworks it darn well had better be good.  And how do I define good?  Nothing short of blissful togetherness.  Perfect harmony where the mere thought of it all coming to an end makes both of our hearts sink.

Vail is closing for the season this weekend and I thought it would be great to take in the festivities with Steve, my new love.  Normally I wouldn’t question (even remotely!) if all would go well but there’s a big storm in the forecast and Saturday is looking like a powder day.  There are no friends on powder days as the saying goes, and I found this out for real back in January when we took our first weekend away.

We both were incredibly psyched about discovering Crested Butte, a spectacular Colorado destination known for its rugged terrain, authentic spirit and quaint Victorian town.  Neither of us had spent any real time there, so it was uncharted territory for us both.  Truly though I think it was the idea of spending forty-eight hours together that appealed to us the most.

The Pearl Room at The Crested Butte Retreat

The Pearl Room at The Crested Butte Retreat

The drive there couldn’t have been more perfect since we talked nonstop, sharing thoughts, dreams and ideas that we hadn’t yet revealed in previous conversations.  We tiptoed in to The Crested Butte Retreat, a high-end bed-and-breakfast that I had located on the Internet.  Our meeting with our gracious hosts would wait until morning.  We pushed open the door to the Pearl Room (also known as the Honeymoon Suite) and sauntered into an immense, milky-colored space, twice the size of my apartment back home.  We savored a glass of red wine on the loveseat before falling into bed, totally smitten with each other and our surroundings.

We Could Ski Right Outside the Door of The Crested Butte Retreat

We Could Ski Right Outside the Door of The Crested Butte Retreat

After an elegant breakfast together, we left practically hand in hand for the slopes the next day.  It was a perfect day, punctuated by many fun runs together on Crested Butte’s craggy slopes and one long break at the Ice Bar, a popular gathering spot on the mountain where we gulped frosty beers and snuggled up to each other at a wraparound bar made entirely of blocks of ice.  We cooed some more over an après-ski hot chocolate and then rushed back to the Retreat for a quick change for dinner.  (We even endured a goof up with the public transportation which resulted in us missing a bus and having to wait a near eternity for another.  We didn’t care much though; we were one with each other.)

We opted out of a romantic dinner à deux to dine with Ken and Kim Stone, two incredibly warm and enthusiastic people that both Steve and I knew from their time in Telluride.  As the CEO of Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Ken provided us with the full rundown on this once rough-around-the-edges mountain town that is morphing into a more sophisticated destination for outdoor enthusiasts in the know.  We chatted about this evolution over cheese fondue and juicy steaks in the uber sleek setting of the newly opened Prime in Elevation Hotel at Mt. Crested Butte.  No one, of course, could have asked for a better introduction to the Butte.

We fell asleep in each others arms, professing our utter contentment with each other and openly stated that something had to bring us back to reality.  It was almost dizzying to feel so high up in the clouds.

Be careful what you wish for—I’ve been warned of that many times, too.  Our fluffy white haze turned into a big, dark thunderhead that rained upset and grief upon us by mid Sunday afternoon.  The day started out excitedly:  Steve was pumped about skiing powder with Ken and Kim and I felt proud of myself for giving him space to knock himself out since I knew I wouldn’t be able to keep up with them on Crested Butte’s renowned double diamonds.  The plan was that I would go on a Meet the Mountain tour and meet him for lunch.  All was well in honeymoon land.

By almost 2 p.m., however, I was a wreck.  He never showed up for lunch.  “What?  How could you forget?”  I cried in between sobs.

“I don’t know, I just spaced it.  I’m sorry.  I screwed up.”

High Drama Hot Tub

High Drama Hot Tub

Our weekend was irretrievable.  Even a late check out and a long soak in the Honeymoon hot tub, couldn’t take us back to the soft space we had created together the first 3/4 of our weekend away.  It took more time than that for both of us to fully recover.

Now here we are on the eve of another ski weekend away, another powder day.  It would be silly for me not to expect to have it go well.  But if there is a glitch, maybe now I wouldn’t take it quite so personally.  Travel, after all, always brings out the best and the worst in relationships.

The Crested Butte Retreat, 970-349-1701, www.crestedbutteretreat.com ; please note that since this story was posted, The Crested Butte Retreat is no longer operating as an inn.  You may, however, rent out the entire property for special retreats.

Crested Butte Mountain Resort, 800-810-7669, www.skicb.com

Prime in the Elevation Hotel at Mt. Crested Butte, 970-251-3030, www.skicb.com/cbmr/things-to-do/dining-mtcrestedbutte

Crested Butte is known for its proliferation of wildflowers in the summer.  I have never seen this spectacular display but hope to some day soon.  Maybe it will provide me with the opportunity to rewrite our ending in the Honeymoon Suite.

Hillsides of Flowers in Front of The Crested Butte Retreat

Hillside of Flowers in Front of The Crested Butte Retreat

 
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