Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Baby It’s Cold Outside
Brrrrrrr. There’s no doubt about it—it’s January here in the Rockies. We had brutally cold weather over New Year’s, then a bit of a reprieve, and now the thermometer has dipped way low again the past couple of days and nights. And I love it! These frigid temperatures are ideal for preserving our snow as well as our hearty mountain-dweller spirit. (Chilly days on the hill make for even more cozy nights at home.)
You must, however, be prepared for such frosty weather since there’s no fooling around with mother nature. I had my coldest day on the mountain (ever!) in Telluride over New Year’s, yet I more than endured it by dressing properly and taking lots of hot chocolate breaks. Temperatures hovered around zero much of the time, creating a misty, ethereal effect unlike anything I had ever experienced on the slopes. I never would have ventured out on such glacial days on my own, but since I was booked for private lessons with familiar clients, my ski instructor duties kicked in. (And boy, was I glad it did or else I would have missed a very magical moment on the mountain.)
We don’t have a lot of bitterly cold days here in southwestern Colorado but when it hits, you must be prepared since few people in this ski town spend perfectly good ski days at home (or in their hotel) on the couch. You want to make sure not to have any bare skin exposed because frostbite can happen easily even if you don’t feel especially cold. I wear a basic black mask by Seirus with air holes for the nose and mouth that permit me (and most people) to breathe freely. This, combined with my goggles, a thick neck warmer and hat, keeps my head toasty warm. I urge you to make the face mask leap if you haven’t already. It took me a while to do so (for fear of looking like a bank robber or serial killer) but it’s really uncool not to don a mask on arctic days. Plus now Seirus is making fashion forward Combodanas that resemble colorful bandannas. They also sell balaclavas which I’ve yet to try.
Forget about gloves during such wintry weather. Mittens with hand warmers work best and don’t bother with liners. This is based on my own experience and the observations I’ve made after seven seasons of being a ski instructor for kids and adults. Liners just prevent your fingers from benefiting from the warmth of your own body heat. Gloves do the same times ten. I love hand warmers although I’m not sure how green they are for the environment. Maybe I should look that up on the Internet but I’d hate to think I’d have to resort to keeping a hot rock—or some other type of heat generating natural material—in my mittens from now on.
I recommend you steer away from foot warmers completely, particularly if you’re planning to put them in your ski boots! They take up space and cut off circulation which in turn makes your feet colder. Wear only one pair of thin socks and invest in boot heaters if you own your own boots. If you rent boots (which I think is best to avoid—skis are O.K., but not boots), buy a pair of boot gloves, a Neoprene cover that fits snugly over ski boots. I wear my boot heaters most every day, adjusting them according to how chilly it is outside; and on especially cold days, I slip on my boot gloves as well.
Now for your body. As you’ve heard many times before, layering is key. It’s also smart to invest in some high tech layers (base, mid-weight and outer), that boast excellent wicking, insulating and wind proofing properties. On super cold days, I wear an expedition-weight base layer on my legs and sport a few different layers on top—all tucked beneath the weight of my super-warm ski instructor uniform. Omni-Heat Thermal Comfort, from Columbia, has been this year’s latest and greatest discovery for me. Designed with a thermal reflective technology that reflects back the heat your body generates, these Omni-Heat products keep you considerably warmer without added bulk. I love wearing the Reach the Peak down jacket underneath my ski uniform (or my own ski jacket on free-ski days) when it’s super cold outside. It’s so style-y and warm that I can wear it as my outer layer (with a fleece and a base layer) on more mild days. It’s lightweight enough to roll up and stuff in a bag to be pulled out as soon as temperatures drop no matter where you are, whatever the season.
Après ski isn’t just about hot toddies back at the bar. For me, keeping my feet warm to and from the slopes is essential. (You know, of course, that it’s best to avoid walking to the slopes in your boots. Sweating in your boots will only make your feet freeze more once on the hill. Be sure to dry them before putting on your ski socks and boots.) Here again, Omni-Heat, from Columbia, has become my new best friend. Their women’s Flurry Omni-Heat boots have allowed me to brave brisk early morning and late night gondola rides without ever uttering My feet are cold to myself or others. Indeed, they’re so warm that it’s best not to sport them on fair weather days.
Are you feeling better prepared? I hope so because braving the cold always makes us feel good about ourselves, don’t you think? I moved to Colorado (from upstate New York) for the sunshine. If I didn’t love the cold and snow, I might have picked Florida where I’ve heard the skiing isn’t quite as good.
Ski lots, do tons of turns and dress accordingly and you’ll stay blissfully warm on our snow-diamond studded slopes all winter long.
Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
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Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!
The weather outside is not exactly frightful. At least not in Telluride today. In fact, temperatures here over the weekend rose to spring-like conditions, prompting people to peel off layers throughout Christmas Day. Although we didn’t get as much of the fluffy white stuff as was forecasted, Santa was still able to find some nice powder stashes on the mountain during his annual visit.
And it seems as though the Pineapple Express will be chased away by an Artic blast come Thursday and by Friday, we’re indeed apt to be singing the refrain The weather outside is frightful. I plan to pick up some boot gloves before then to complement my boot heaters. May need to sprinkle some cayenne pepper on my toes, too. But Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!
Thank you to Tom Watkinson and Merrick Chase for these snowy images.
Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies: Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies
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Playing in the Rockies: A Great Substitute for Going to the Mall
Whoa—what a holiday weekend it turned out to be here in the Rockies. While many of you were planted in front of your T.V.s watching football or trudging about the stores in search of Black Friday bargains, people were hitting the slopes hard all over Colorado. What a great way to burn off holiday indulgences! In Telluride, we had one of the best openings ever; and although only a limited amount of terrain was served up, conditions proved to be delectable. Aspen enjoyed an epic kick off to their season, punctuated by the Women’s World Cup races, an exciting FIS event that brings even more of an international crowd to this tony mountain town.
It seems as though the skiing has been bountiful all over the state and storms have begun to roll in to our part of the country like guests showing up for a holiday party. I’ve been scrambling to transition from travel writer’s mode to a well-prepared ski instructor ready to spend many hours out and about on the slopes with clients, no matter what weather or situation marks the day. It’s challenging but have no fear, the mountain conquers all!
Thank you to Jeremy Swanson for the above image.
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Fall in the Rockies: Pick the Day, Pick the Season
We were walloped with our first big snowstorm of the season earlier this week. It happened as usual––albeit a little behind schedule––and within twenty-four hours we were catapulted from glorious fall days into the depths of winter. Either way, it looks beautiful here in the Rockies and it seems as though we’ll be spared the bleak, grey days that sometimes occur between falling leaves and snowfall. Hopefully it was just enough to inspire folks around the country to think about booking their ski vacations in Colorado. (The best deals are offered now, so don’t wait.)
Today it’s back to autumnal temperatures in the mountains; in Denver, it’s sure to feel summer-like with a projected high near eighty degrees. A-Basin and Loveland have already kicked off their season and Wolf Creek is due to open this weekend. Most of the biggies such as Aspen/Snowmass and Telluride open on Thanksgiving. Many of my fellow ski and snowboard instructors are sweating it out two evenings a week with preseason ski conditioning workouts. (Read Getting Ready for Ski Season Part One and Two.) I’m not attending any of those grueling sessions this year, mostly since I’m traveling so much this fall. I hope I won’t regret it! I have been doing some serious swimming, however, at The Peaks pool when in town. It’s one of my favorite places in T-ride and also a great spot for building core strength.
Hmmmm, I should get back to switching out my closets and catching up on work at my desk (oh, the joy of working at home!). Once ski season hits, it’s a major juggling act for all––no matter how serious you are about your profession and home life. You can’t help getting the fever and that’s a big part of why I love having my ski instructor job (and my crazy writer’s life) that allows me to get out on the hill without feeling like I’m playing hooky. Right now I’m contenting myself with being lulled to sleep with the sound of the snow guns and the thought that I’ll soon be cruising down the slopes feeling the thrill of being very much alive and active in one of the most amazing places on earth.
Thank you to Ryan Shorney, from Aspen Skiing Company, for the above image of the recent storm at Snowmass.
Check out Telluride Daily Photo for some lovely shots of this transitional season in Telluride.
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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It’s Dumping in the Rockies
As though right on cue, the big snows are arriving in the Rockies like a gathering of elves furiously putting the finishing touches on holiday preparations at the North Pole. Like kids on Christmas Eve, people in ski towns all across Colorado are suffering from ski fever as the pow pow accumulates outside our doors. The only release is to ski (or board!) and those lucky enough to get out are enjoying some of the best first tracks of the season.
Less than two weeks ago the sun shone brightly throughout most of Colorado as the thermometer displayed nearly springlike temperatures. Opening day in Telluride was as much about hanging out at the Hop Garden, a popular slopeside restaurant and bar, as stretching your legs on the slopes. Yet from Aspen to Vail to Crested Butte, all were eager to see some real snow. Even Sylvester, the cat, the lucky resident of the Sundeck, Aspen’s mountaintop restaurant, longed to see snow blowing outside his window. (Heck, if it’s cold and nearly winter in the mountains, it might as well snow!)
Our wish has been granted and clearly winter is rolling in with great force. Just in time, too. Here in Telluride we’re gearing up for the LG FIS Snowboardcross World Cup that kicks off shortly. World-class athletes have already begun to arrive, some earlier than originally planned since there’s apparently no snow in Europe. Wait ‘til they get a taste of the Champagne powder of the great American West.
Click here to see what winter is like in Telluride. You really must see this for its incredibly beautiful. Thank you to Ben Knight for capturing the magic of our awe-inspiring place.
Thank you also to Lisa Wilson for the top photo and Tom Watkinson for the one below. Check out more of Lisa’s photos at Telluride Daily Photo and be sure to consider her 2010 calendar for holiday gifts. I love her shots of life in Telluride.
End Note: As I write this, I’ve had to reassure my kitties, Leo and Clara, that all is well. They’re blasting outside, a good sign for everyone but cats. I wonder how little Sylvester is surviving the avalanche control work in Aspen. He’s surely hiding, especially since he’s known to only emerge before the rush, early in the morning and after lunch.
Also if you’re lucky enough to be in Telluride, stop by the Hop Garden today at 4 p.m. to meet the US Team athletes for poster signing and fun.
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Fall in Colorado: A Terrific In-Between Time of Year
I wrote glowingly about fall in the Rocky Mountains in Riding the Gondola, a story I posted this time of year last year. Now I’ll tell you about that funny in-between time just after most of the leaves have dropped and before most ski areas open, the period from mid October through Thanksgiving.
The bare aspens now blend into the mountainsides like bristly hairs on a crewcut. Golden cottonwoods along the rivers and russet red grasses and shrubs in the fields and on the slopes now punctuate this autumnal season. Dusted in white, the mountains stand steely grey awaiting the long, steady snowfalls that will soon accumulate. We already had a few, enough to know that winter is ready to barrel in. It’s usually snowy by Halloween in our mountain towns, Thanksgiving for sure.
Now officially off-season, lots of folks in the ski towns take off for a long break before the start of the season. The rest await anxiously the arrival of the big snows. Huge, barrel-shaped snow guns have already been placed strategically across slopes all over the Rockies. The blowing will soon begin and mother nature will be aided in the mission of creating the finest skiing in the West, indisputably the best in the world.
Loveland ski area officially opened a couple of weeks ago; they briefly closed since it had been unseasonably warm but are now open again. (Denver hit record-breaking highs in the eighties over the weekend after having had a snowed-out Rockies game a couple of weeks ago.) A-Basin is open, too, and others will soon follow. I learned today that die-hard skiers have been hiking up to Silverton for some early season back country skiing. Copper Mountain is slated for a November 6 opening. And even if only a few runs are skiable, it’s still a great way to get out and have fun and begin to get in shape for the season. I’ve skied Wolf Creek early November as well at times when the whole mountain has been open, blanketed in deep powder the sort you’d expect in the dead of winter. No wonder they’re known to be the snowiest ski mountain in all of Colorado.
Like Aspen and many other resorts, we’ll open in Telluride at Thanksgiving. Time is sure to fly between now and then and there will be many people caught without their skis waxed or their bodies properly prepared. I began ski conditioning class yesterday and even after just one session, I can tell I have a long way to go before adequately strengthening my core and legs for the slopes. (Boy, am I sore today!) Yet everyone’s talking snow and the countdown has begun to opening day. Ski movies are playing in our small-town cinemas and the excitement is mounting day by day.
Now is the time to score some great bargains on everything skiing. Many of the resorts are still promoting pre-season pass and lift ticket deals (some offers valid until October 30). Terrific lodging specials are also available, especially if you book before November 15. Flush with brand new merchandise, many of the ski and snowboard shops continue to offer discounted prices. In T-ride, the KOTO Ski Swap, a one-day event that’s held annually in mid-November (this year on the 14th), draws crowds from neighboring mountain towns that clamor for new and used ski clothing and gear at killer prices.
There’s anticipation in the air over this year’s turnout as well. But no one’s holding their breath too long since we know how important ski vacations are to people. They’re a great way for families, friends, guys and girls to get together and although ski holidays might not be totally recession proof, we know that this is where some of the best memories are forged. So it’s unlikely there will be too many breaks with tradition.
As for me, I can hardly wait for the season to begin. I have one more trip to take back east, then I hope to hunker down here in my beloved Colorado. My kitties are already in quasi hibernation mode which tells me that it’s time for me to park it as well. I’m excited about resuming my job as ski instructor in Telluride, the perfect antidote for too many hours at my desk and on the road. It’s also a great way to have and share fun with others.
Now it just has to start snowing.
Telluride Ski Resort Deals, http://tellurideskiresort.com/TellSki/hot-deals.aspx
Aspen/Snowmass Deals, http://www.aspensnowmass.com/travelinfo/package.cfm
Hotels Restaurants Romance & Relationships Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies Travel: Hotels Restaurants Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies Travel
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Weekend Expectations
It’s often recommended not to have any expectations. But how can you not when it comes to a weekend getaway? I’m sure even guys think (O.K., fantasize) about what they want out of a romantic weekend away. That’s part of the fun. Call it another form of travel planning.
I’m trying not to think too much about my plans for this weekend. Yet still little glimmers of mostly romantic moments keep popping into my mind. Let’s face it, even if it’s not fireworks it darn well had better be good. And how do I define good? Nothing short of blissful togetherness. Perfect harmony where the mere thought of it all coming to an end makes both of our hearts sink.
Vail is closing for the season this weekend and I thought it would be great to take in the festivities with Steve, my new love. Normally I wouldn’t question (even remotely!) if all would go well but there’s a big storm in the forecast and Saturday is looking like a powder day. There are no friends on powder days as the saying goes, and I found this out for real back in January when we took our first weekend away.
We both were incredibly psyched about discovering Crested Butte, a spectacular Colorado destination known for its rugged terrain, authentic spirit and quaint Victorian town. Neither of us had spent any real time there, so it was uncharted territory for us both. Truly though I think it was the idea of spending forty-eight hours together that appealed to us the most.
The drive there couldn’t have been more perfect since we talked nonstop, sharing thoughts, dreams and ideas that we hadn’t yet revealed in previous conversations. We tiptoed in to The Crested Butte Retreat, a high-end bed-and-breakfast that I had located on the Internet. Our meeting with our gracious hosts would wait until morning. We pushed open the door to the Pearl Room (also known as the Honeymoon Suite) and sauntered into an immense, milky-colored space, twice the size of my apartment back home. We savored a glass of red wine on the loveseat before falling into bed, totally smitten with each other and our surroundings.
After an elegant breakfast together, we left practically hand in hand for the slopes the next day. It was a perfect day, punctuated by many fun runs together on Crested Butte’s craggy slopes and one long break at the Ice Bar, a popular gathering spot on the mountain where we gulped frosty beers and snuggled up to each other at a wraparound bar made entirely of blocks of ice. We cooed some more over an après-ski hot chocolate and then rushed back to the Retreat for a quick change for dinner. (We even endured a goof up with the public transportation which resulted in us missing a bus and having to wait a near eternity for another. We didn’t care much though; we were one with each other.)
We opted out of a romantic dinner à deux to dine with Ken and Kim Stone, two incredibly warm and enthusiastic people that both Steve and I knew from their time in Telluride. As the CEO of Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Ken provided us with the full rundown on this once rough-around-the-edges mountain town that is morphing into a more sophisticated destination for outdoor enthusiasts in the know. We chatted about this evolution over cheese fondue and juicy steaks in the uber sleek setting of the newly opened Prime in Elevation Hotel at Mt. Crested Butte. No one, of course, could have asked for a better introduction to the Butte.
We fell asleep in each others arms, professing our utter contentment with each other and openly stated that something had to bring us back to reality. It was almost dizzying to feel so high up in the clouds.
Be careful what you wish for—I’ve been warned of that many times, too. Our fluffy white haze turned into a big, dark thunderhead that rained upset and grief upon us by mid Sunday afternoon. The day started out excitedly: Steve was pumped about skiing powder with Ken and Kim and I felt proud of myself for giving him space to knock himself out since I knew I wouldn’t be able to keep up with them on Crested Butte’s renowned double diamonds. The plan was that I would go on a Meet the Mountain tour and meet him for lunch. All was well in honeymoon land.
By almost 2 p.m., however, I was a wreck. He never showed up for lunch. “What? How could you forget?” I cried in between sobs.
“I don’t know, I just spaced it. I’m sorry. I screwed up.”
Our weekend was irretrievable. Even a late check out and a long soak in the Honeymoon hot tub, couldn’t take us back to the soft space we had created together the first 3/4 of our weekend away. It took more time than that for both of us to fully recover.
Now here we are on the eve of another ski weekend away, another powder day. It would be silly for me not to expect to have it go well. But if there is a glitch, maybe now I wouldn’t take it quite so personally. Travel, after all, always brings out the best and the worst in relationships.
The Crested Butte Retreat, 970-349-1701, www.crestedbutteretreat.com ; please note that since this story was posted, The Crested Butte Retreat is no longer operating as an inn. You may, however, rent out the entire property for special retreats.
Crested Butte Mountain Resort, 800-810-7669, www.skicb.com
Prime in the Elevation Hotel at Mt. Crested Butte, 970-251-3030, www.skicb.com/cbmr/things-to-do/dining-mtcrestedbutte
Crested Butte is known for its proliferation of wildflowers in the summer. I have never seen this spectacular display but hope to some day soon. Maybe it will provide me with the opportunity to rewrite our ending in the Honeymoon Suite.
Hotels Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Hotels Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
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Togethering in the Rockies
Togethering. Certainly there was a lot of that this past weekend. Thanksgiving kicks off the season—especially here in the Rockies—when friends and family gather in houses, condos and cabins to share their vacation time together.
Togethering is the term coined not too long ago by travel agents and other travel industry experts to refer to the tendency of vacationing together as a family unit, often with extended family members and/or relations from previous marriages. “This coming together of combined families and friends has been more of a trend the past few years,” says Steve Togni, General Manager of Mountain Lodge at Telluride, a handsome property skirted with ten well-appointed slopeside cabins and an alluring lineup of condos, all perfect for families looking to settle into the mountains for an extended stay. “It has become less about skiing,” Steve adds. “It’s more about shopping, spa going, dining and just being in the mountains. I would describe these stays more as winter vacations rather than ski vacations. There’s definitely more of it going on in the winter than in the summer.”
A lot of people choose to rent large homes out West and many families return to the same house year after year. Clearly there’s beauty in having your own special hideaway without being encumbered by the expense and hassle of owning it yourself. “We have people coming back to the same property year after year,” says Maité Daguerre, Director of Operations at Elevation Vacations, a company that specializes in luxury rentals in Telluride. “People love the personal touch and great service we provide,” Maité continues. “It’s all about relationships. When someone checks in to a big luxury home—or even a small guest cottage—we meet them at the door, show them how to use the stereo, help them out however possible.”
I’ve togethered a number of times with my family in Aspen where my parents have a large condo. It’s always different there than being reunited at other locales; it seems the mountain and the lively town of Aspen provide the foundation for all. Both, of course, are good to escape to when the togethering element becomes a bit too much. My favorite times togethering in Aspen have been when it has just been my dad and me. Can togethering be about only two people?
When our family isn’t occupying our condo, it’s rented out and managed by Frias Properties of Aspen, the biggest rental company in Aspen that offers a variety of lodging possibilities in Aspen and Snowmass. “Our bookings are looking good for the season,” says co-owner Chuck Frias. “The international guests will be down from the Australian and Brazilian markets and also from Europe since the euro is weaker than it was last year, but we’re pricing more aggressively to make up the difference.”
Unless you’ve been squirreled away the past few weeks, you know that the travel bargains are better than ever, so this is the time to take advantage of savings of up to thirty percent off on lodging and some airfares. Certainly if people are considering travel, they’re going to put a premium on time with their families. Folks will still want to get together and often it’s easiest to meet in a fun destination in the Rockies when families are spread out between Denver, Phoenix and New York.
Word has been that the outlook is more tenuous for Steamboat Springs this season, but the Sheraton Steamboat Resort isn’t complaining. They’re set to reopen December 4 after a $20 million renovation and bookings are full. The makeover transformed this fine Starwood property from a 350-room hotel to a 200-plus establishment composed of a good number of luxury condos. They offer several different possibilities for families looking to find a living situation that meets their taste and budgetary needs. Their two- to three- bedroom villas are more high-end, but all are ski in/ski out and freshly decorated in their new modern mountain look.
You can find all kinds of lodging options throughout the Rockies for your togethering. No matter what the price tag, you’re sure to save some on dining expenses if you make use of the glorious kitchen facilities that appear to be at the heart of the accommodations best suited for families.
But what about those truly extraordinary reunions such as a very special wedding anniversary or a landmark birthday when money is no object? The gem in the RockResorts crown is most definitely Trapper’s Cabin, a magnificent four-bedroom, four-bath hideaway in Beaver Creek that sleeps up to ten people. Renovations on Trapper’s Cabin were completed last winter and the amenities such as a sleek professional kitchen and a game room complete with a pool table, poker table and large flat screen T.V. are enough to keep the whole gang happy for days.
There’s no fear whatsoever of catching cabin fever at the Tempter House, the Hope diamond of high-end lodging in the Rockies, situated right here in Telluride, perched at 12,200 feet at nearly the summit of Telluride Ski Resort. The Tempter House is one of the most secluded and romantic destinations you will encounter with 360-degree panoramic views that will make you feel like you’re floating on a mountaintop cloud. A couple’s massage or private catered dinner can be arranged or you can just relax with a glass of wine in front of the master bedroom’s wood burning fireplace and focus on your hunny. This must be why it’s referred to as the Tempter House! (Actually the name is inspired from Temptation Chute, a gnarly couloir that plunges down the mountainside on the out-of-bounds side of the house.) The Tempter House is, however, totally ski in/ski out. Many more glorious amenities are also offered. Expect to pay about $5,000. a night. Now that’s what I call topnotch togethering.
Mountain Lodge Telluride, 866-368-6867 or 970-369-5000, www.mountainlodgetelluride.com
Elevation Vacations, 888-728-8160 and 970-728-8160, www.elevationvacations.com
Frias Properties of Aspen, 800-633-0336 and 970-920-2000, www.friasproperties.com
Sheraton Steamboat Resort, 866-716-8134 and 970-879-2220, www.sheraton.com/steamboat
Trapper’s Cabin, 970-754-5788, www.trapperscabincolorado.com
Tempter House, 866-888-7197, www.tellurideskiresort.com/TellSki/info/tempter-house
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