Bonjour Colorado

East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks

The Outer Banks of North Carolina

Even travel writers need a vacation.  Everybody needs a break from their job even if their work is their passion.  That’s exactly what I did during my four days and nights on The Outer Banks of North Carolina.  I didn’t take a single note.  I didn’t scout out the best places of lodging, the most typical restaurants or everyone’s favorite dairy bar.  I didn’t come away with a single address, phone number or Web site.

My mind is imbued, however, with myriad images of a place that was once imagined and is now forever known.  I had envisioned a certain wildness about this immense slice of land that extends along the coast of North Carolina.  (The Outer Banks is actually a long, narrow string of barrier islands some two-hundred miles long.)  I found its untamed characteristics in its charging surf and along immense swathes of beaches best accessed by four-wheel drive vehicles with deflated tires.  I felt enchanted by the region’s cedar shingled houses on stilts despite the over proliferation of them in a good many areas.  Indeed the development of The Outer Banks has not always been kept carefully in check but it’s no wonder since much like on Cape Cod and in certain parts of Maine, the ocean roars for attention here drawing crowds from near and far.

Pick Your Beach

Lovely Cape Hatteras Lighthouse

Yet the beaches are so wide and vast that you can pick your way along the coastline and easily remain within your own little world.  I did this often on walks that skirted Cape Hatteras and fringed the surf of Rodanthe, both among the more charming areas on The Outer Banks yet also two of the more remote.  At Cape Hatteras I stood in awe in front of its black-and-white peppermint-striped historic lighthouse that has valiantly warned sailors about the treacherous sandbars that extend some fourteen miles out into the ocean for more than one-hundred years.  I collected shells and beach glass from both locales as well as others, marveling at the cleanliness of the beaches.  (It’s no wonder the coast is so free of debris, organic and otherwise, since not much can survive in this robust surf.)

It is these waves of six to eight feet in height that have made The Outer Banks the surfers’ paradise of the east coast.  Like seals bobbing in the water, it’s easy to spot a bunch of surfers out in the line up looking for that adrenalin-filled drop in the next tubing wave.  Never before had I paid much attention to this sport that decidedly requires an extremely strong combination of strength, endurance and strategy, perhaps more than in any other physical activity.  (I promise you that the fact that I had my eye on Steve, my handsome surfer dude, didn’t skew my impressions of the sport either.)

It was hard to imagine that Steve could love a place more than he loves the mountains.  But the surf definitely vies for his attention nearly as much.  He was drawn to The Outer Banks some two decades ago for its huge waves that break along this rugged coastline.  He has learned to navigate these waves well, paddling out to catch just the right swell, then climbing up onto his board for a seemingly painfully short ride before he begins all over again.  (Apparently the rewards are great since he tells me there’s no other sensation like it—in any other sport—when you catch and ride that wall of water.)  I would happily stand and watch this process over and over again until I set off for my stroll along the beach, a most agreeable rhythm that we established for ourselves that was repeated many times over during our time on The Outer Banks.

Find the Surfer

My introduction to the beach here came on a red-flagged, no swimming day that made Steve eager to get out and brave the surf.  My little stormrider proved fearless amongst the immense waves while I was afraid of going more than ankle deep in my walk along the beach.  (One has to be very careful of the undertow!)  Finally by the third day, I made an effort to muster up the courage to face the surf head on.  It occurred to me that I knew everything there is to know to go down (or at least get down!) a double black diamond ski run, but I didn’t have a clue about how to handle myself in such frightening waves.  Steve took my hand and showed me how to dive straight into the surf in order to break through to the other side.  What an achievement for me, someone that hasn’t spent much time in such big waves.  We bobbed and ducked amidst the swells for another fifteen minutes then headed back onto the beach to rest in the warm sand.  We stretched out together and marveled about the might of the ocean.

“You need to respect it much like the mountains,” Steve reminded me.

“Oh don’t worry, I do,” I reassured him.  I sighed and just laid there for a while.  “Now I feel like I really experienced The Outer Banks,” I remarked.  He smiled.

So what if I can’t name the best place for pancakes or fried shrimp.  There’s always a next time and by then—after more bouncing up and down in the surf—I’m sure I’ll feel like I will have earned the North Carolina bounty even more .

“The surfing scene on The Outer Banks isn’t about neon wetsuits, cool lingo or flashy stickers.  It’s about people that love nature, people that crave the surf,” says Steve Togni, my own surfer man.

Film Pick

“Nights in Rodanthe,” a romantic comedy set on The Outer Banks, starring Richard Gere and Diane Lane.  Bravo to Hollywood for having cast two great actors of un certain age for this love story.  I walked by this eery-looking house on my walk on the beach.

The House in "Nights in Rodanthe"

Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Virginia Beach

VB Hotspot: The Sexy SkyBar

I have to admit I’m more of a Saint-Tropez kind of gal, so I felt somewhat wary about the idea of spending time at Virginia Beach, a destination that conjured up images of guys in muscle shirts and girls romping about in wet T-shirt contests on the beach.  But it made sense for me to park myself there for a few days until my boyfriend, Steve, came by to pick me up for our trip to the Outer Banks.  He had actually lived in VB for a while nearly two decades ago and his curiosity about the evolution of this major resort town encouraged me to check it out.

Both of us ended up being quite impressed by this super beach-y destination.

And who wouldn’t be?  The Atlantic is gorgeous here.  It stretches out as far as the eye can see and comes crashing in with big tumbling waves.  I love the vastness of the ocean but I find it even more interesting when there’s activity on the water and here, at practically the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, there’s plenty to see.  Cruise ships, barges, immense freighters and all kinds of pleasure boats pass by at varying distances from the horizon, providing endless hours of entertainment, especially for a landlubber like me.

Neptune's Statue on the Boardwalk

The beach and boardwalk tract the coast for some three miles here.  My biggest decisions revolved around whether I’d walk on the expansive sandy beach or meander along the impeccably maintained boardwalk.  Now that’s vacation mode.  Most of the time I ended up doing a combination of both.  The scene at both locales percolated with locals and visitors alike doing all the fun things you do at the beach.  And yes, I saw a number of muscle men, but more in the form of super fit guys jogging, walking and roller blading along the boardwalk.  Few posers here.  This is the real deal since Naval Air Station (NAS) Oceana, our country’s largest naval facility is located in VB and I can assure you that all of these military dudes and dudettes appear more than fit to serve.  The locals overall look as taut and tight as most Coloradans.  This is a beach community after all.

The tourists seem more concerned with gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and various other eateries along the beach.  And VB is their oyster when it comes to choosing their preferred form of temptation.  There’s something for every taste and pocketbook and most scintillate with a brightly-colored decor that offers outstanding views of the beach.

VB Ocean Beach Club Penthouse

Far from a tired old beach town, Virginia Beach pops and bubbles with beautiful places of lodging as well.  The Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club is one such place and I felt so content here that it was hard to tear myself away from the sunny interior of my eighth floor abode that plunged over the ocean.  The crash of the waves on the beach lulled me to sleep and I snatched every possible moment to sit on my balcony high above the activity below.  Morning meant gazing down at early risers strolling on this vast playland of freshly raked beach.  I sipped tea (hot and iced) bemused by pods of dolphins that frolicked in the surf throughout the day.  In the evening I savored white wine staring down at this constantly animated tableau and one night I even worked on my laptop from my little perch.  The combined glow from the moon and my computer screen will never be forgotten.

VB Ocean Beach Club at Dusk

A little investigating led me to unearth lots of charm amidst all this newness.  Of course the quaintness of the beach never waned, but I delighted in discovering some small, soulful places that clearly rank as locals’ best-loved establishments.  I peeked into Pelon’s Baja Grill, a surfers’ favorite, the first day I arrived, yet sadly never made it back for some of their renowned fish tacos and guacamole.  I picked up some excellent take out instead from Taste nearby and brought it back to my surf-side enclave.  I also longed to experience the old beach house interiors of Doc Taylor’s and Tautogs, but opted out of eating there as well since the beach beckoned.  (I swear I’ll return to Doc Taylor’s some day, especially for their crab crêpe with veggies topped with Hollandaise sauce.)  Steve and I did, however, grab breakfast at The Belvedere Coffee Shop, a real classic that hasn’t changed since the days when he would come here with his buddies before a day in the surf.  The Belvedere is a totally unpretentious diner that offers fantastic views of the ocean and tasty eggs cooked to order.

Rockfish, a must-see for anyone that has a love for the Beatles, presents more great vistas of the beach.  After having studied the plethora of Beatles’ memorabilia here (one of the largest in the world), I was happy to sit outside and gaze at the VB Fishing Pier over their lighter version of scrumptious She-crab soup (a sort of bisque) and Pina Colada.  She loves you, yeah, yeah, yeah.

Steve arrived for my last night and I was excited to show him all that I had discovered at Virginia Beach Oceanfront.  We strolled along the boardwalk, his eyes widening as though he was seeing it all for the first time.  We stopped in front of the many different points of interests—-extraordinary statues and the like—that were erected at each intersection of a street along the Boardwalk.  He was amazed at how far this once shabby beach town had come, how handsomely the oceanfront had been developed over the past ten years or so.  We lingered at the Neptune Plaza for a while where free concerts are performed nightly to a highly animated crowd.  We poked in at The Jewish Mother, an institution of sorts known for hosting performers such as Dave Matthews and Dr. John (before they became big).  Steve informed me that it hadn’t changed an ounce since his college days but we learned that it is slated to take over new digs in 2010.  (This is likely a good thing since to me it looked like too much of a dive.)  Their eight-inch tall carrot cake, however, tempted me greatly but we were in search of a more romantic venue.

We found our bliss at the SkyBar, the wraparound pool bar that opens at 10 p.m. on top of the Hilton.  Apparently it’s only open to hotel guests, but that alone would give me reason to stay there.  Part Miami, part Marrakesh, part (yes) Saint-Tropez, the look of the SkyBar is sexy and alluring.  As soon as the doors opened, we busted onto the scene, took one look around and threw down my jacket on one of their many double-wide loungers that punctuate their pool deck.  After doing the 360-degree tour, we opted for a lounger within the indoor pool area.  It was nearing late September by now and the ocean breeze cast a chill in the air.  Inside felt like a tropical paradise.  We sipped strawberry daiquiris and lounged in each others’ arms amidst piles of white terry towels, many of which were rolled up into perfect bolsters.  Steve moved to take off his shirt until I suggested we not become quite so comfy.  As much as we were enjoying each other, we didn’t miss a minute of the action that played out before us.  House music blared and fashionable folks slithered by as though they were mingling at a mixer on the beach.

I wondered how many people had ended up in the pool after a couple of hours of partying.  Undoubtedly a few.  If so, VB’s wet T-shirt exhibitions have certainly come a long way.  Steve and I vowed to come back to take in even more next time.

SkyBar and Its Infinity Pool by Day

Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club, 3401 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-0601 or 800-245-1003, www.vboceanbeachclub.com

Hilton, 3001 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-3000, www.Hilton.com/VirginiaBeach; SkyBar is open Friday and Saturday nights from 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. throughout the season (which goes at least until October 31st when they’ll have a Fire & Ice Halloween Party—ooo la la!). SkyBar memberships are also available inside Catch 31, the showcase restaurant of the Hilton, for $100.

Pelon’s Baja Grill, 3619 Pacific Avenue, 757-417-3970, www.pelonsbajagrill.com

Taste, 36th & Pacific Avenue, 757-422-3399, www.tasteunlimited.com

Doc Taylor’s Restaurant, 207 23rd Street, 757-425-1960

Tautogs, 205 23rd Street, 757-422-0081, www.tautogs.com

Belvedere Coffee Shop, 3601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-0613

Rockfish Boardwalk Bar and Sea Grill, 1601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-7625, www.phrinc.com/restaurants/rockfish

The Jewish Mother, 3108 Pacific Avenue, 757-422-5430, www.jewishmother.com

More Fun

Pocahontas Pancake & Waffle Shop, Atlantic Aveune & 35th Street, 757-428-6352, www.pocahontaspancakes.com; loved the kitschy decor and will definitely return some day for their griddlecakes.

Whalebone, 1616 Laskin Road #748B, 757-437-8141, www.whalebonesurfshop.com; the place to shop for surfboards and surf attire, particularly ultra-cool T-shirts.

Coastal Edge, 2122 Atlantic Avenue, 757-491-9017, www.coastaledge.com; a super-popular surf and skate shop with numerous locations in Virginia Beach.

Forbes Candies, 2318 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-5173, www.forbescandies.com; an Old School candy company that continues to make yummy saltwater taffy and other treats in big copper pots.

Sizzling Sensations from Saint-Tropez

Sexy Saint-Tropez

O.K., I mentioned Saint-Tropez a few posts ago and I’m still tapping into a well of exhilarating emotions.  What a scintillating town!  And all under the guise of an old fishing village that exudes a delicious combination of Provençal charm and Côte d’Azur pizazz.  It’s both glitzy and real.  To me, it’s one of the most picturesque and authentic tourist destinations in the world.  It’s also a great place for shopping and gallery going, so be sure to meander within the maze of old streets to seek out your favorite boutique.  K. Jacques, renowned maker of sandals, is most definitely one of mine.  You’ll also find lots of great pottery shops, antique dealers and fashion-forward clothing and accessories boutiques tucked within this glamorous enclave.

Hotel Byblos: A Saint-Tropez Classic

The celebrated Hotel Byblos is still the magical place to be for lodging, dining, drinks, spa treatments or lolling on the beach (hiding behind designer sunglasses in a skimpy little number, bien sur).  The whole establishment is awash with cheerful, fresh colors characteristic of Provence and the French Riviera.  The hotel has clearly not spared a dime in recent refurbishments since most of the rooms have been beautifully decorated in luxurious fabrics from leading French names Canovas, Frey and Lelievre. Here your beach experience is extended in bathrooms beautified with Italian marble, exotic tiles and polished pebbles.  For further pampering, visit The Byblos Spa that features a host of treatments created exclusively by Sisley Cosmetics for Byblos.  A stay here (and to Saint-Tropez) is not complete without dining at Spoon Byblos where you can enjoy Mediterranean-inspired cuisine along with an international wine selection.  An Alain Ducasse restaurant, the first Spoon, opened over ten years ago in Paris, a highly successful concept that has been replicated in several other countries.

Les Caves du Roy at Hotel Byblos

If nothing else, you must check out the scene at the Byblos club, Les Caves du Roy.  Here you’re sure to have a blast hanging with lots of beautiful people while dancing the night away to some of the most up-to-the-minute music in the world.

Simply Beautiful: La Réserve Ramatuelle

For a sleeker, more stream-lined experience, take in La Réserve Ramatuelle, the newly-opened resort in the oh-so tony neighboring village of the same name.  World renowned architectect, Jean-Michel Wilmotte has created an experience here like few others on the Côte d’Azur. Timeless style, seamless design and purity of line have been employed to produce a stunning hotel and spa that integrates harmoniously with the raw beauty of the coast.  You’ll find no frou frou embellishments here.  The result is a haven of peace and tranquility like none other that you’ll find on the hustling, bustling French Riviera.  I sent Dr. Jeffrey Walker, a world traveler and one of my contributors, here for dinner and he marveled about the space, adding that it was the most exceptional establishment he visited in his whole two-week trip to France.  This is a must for all discerning travelers.  Even if you don’t reserve a room at La Réserve, definitely carve out time to luxuriate at the restaurant or spa.

The Bar and Restaurant of La Réserve

If you do stay at La Réserve, you’ll be so content there that you might not want to venture out.  You must though, especially for the Saint-Tropez market (go early), beach going, boating and drinks in the cafés along the waterfront.

K. Jacques, 25 rue Allard and 16 rue Seillon, Saint-Tropez, (33) 4.94.97.41.50, www.lestropeziennes.com or www.kjacques.fr

Hotel Byblos, avenue Paul Signac, Saint-Tropez, (33) 4-94-56-68-00, www.byblos.com

La Réserve Ramatuelle Hotel and Spa, Chemin de la Quessine, Ramatuelle, (33) 4-94-44-94-44; www.lareserve-ramatuelle.com

Other Favorite Addresses

Potier Augier, 22 rue Georges Clémenceau, Saint-Tropez, (33) 4-94-97-23-72; for boldly colored pottery

Sénéquier, 2 pl aux Herbes (tea salon) and quai Jean Jaurès, Saint-Tropez, (33) 4-94-97-00-90 and (33) 4-97-97-97-81, www.senequier.com; this sprawling café is a veritable institution and possibly one of the best places in all of the south of France to people-watch.

Saint-Tropez: Where Sailing is King

Thank you to LCI/CDT VAR for the use of some of the above images.

Golfing and Much More in Puerto Rican Paradise

Gran Melia Puerto Rican Paradise

How about zipping off to an island Shangri-La where you can enjoy great food and golf?  Of course such a trip would involve lots of other activities including relaxing by the pool or beneath a flower-draped pergola, spa going, tennis playing or even participating in a Salsa or Merengue dance class.  A good friend, who also happens to be a very discriminating traveler, recently discovered Gran Melia Golf Resort Puerto Rico, a breathtaking and luxurious enclave in Puerto Rico that embraces one of the most gorgeous sites of the Caribbean.  The resort’s two 18-hole golf courses are so picturesque that you might find it hard to keep your eye on the ball!  Both have been designed by PGA-legend Tom Kite and are located at the hotels’s Trump International Golf Club (Click on that link to see some awesome photos of the courses!)  Be sure to ask about their terrific offers valid now through December 22nd (must book by November 30th).  The hotel also opens to PR’s largest-lagoon-style pool, a heavenly kingdom lush with flora, perfect for swimmers, golfers and loungers alike.

Gran Melia Golf Resort Puerto Rico, 200 Coco Beach, 787-809-1770, www.gran-melia-puerto-rico.com

One of Many Delightful Bars and Lounges to Enjoy After a Round of Golf

Grace and Grandeur on Florida’s Gold Coast

Florida's Gold Coast

I’ve been hanging out in Aspen for nearly two weeks now.  I often spend a part of off-season here with my dad in his condo where he resides part-time.  We both enjoy this in-between time when the crowds have gone home and life is no busier than the patio of Mezzaluna on a bright, spring day.  (Still totally manageable.)  There’s also more to do and see here than in Telluride during the shoulder season, especially with Aspen Highlands remaining open an extra two weekends in April.  (More on that later.)

As our high-altitude sun melts the winter snow, however, I can’t help thinking about how nice it would be to find myself on a beach.  Thankfully I’m able to live many wonderful travel experiences through friends and contributors that dutifully report back to me.  So when I can carve out the time to travel some distance, I know exactly where I want to find myself.

A Colorful Cozy Nook at The Colony Hotel & Cabana Club

I recently sent my friend Peter, from Resort Maps, to The Colony Hotel & Cabana Club in Delray Beach, Florida.  He selected Delray Beach; I zeroed in on The Colony.  Both proved to be winning choices.  (Resort Maps exist in some of the most charming travel destinations in the U.S. and Peter was headed there on business which proved to me that Delray Beach was a place to report on.)  Known as an artists’ colony during the 1940s, Delray Beach is still considered to be a hip, trendy destination today.  I recommended Peter stay at The Colony Hotel & Cabana Club, an historic landmark built in 1926 that is a member of Historic Hotels of America (a clear sign of distinction!).  I didn’t know that this part of Florida’s Gold Coast exuded so much history and grace, but clearly there’s a surplus of it in Delray Beach as well as at The Colony where Old Florida meets today’s sunny chic.  One of the highlights of The Colony is lunch at the Cabana Club, an unpretentious haven of calm along the Atlantic where lunch is served to hotel guests and club members only.  Peter enjoyed a hamburger there with friends while I drooled over the pictures.

Boca Raton Resort & Club

He experienced an even more elevated culinary experience at Morimoto, a stunning sushi restaurant, headed by Masahuru Morimoto (of Iron Chef fame), located within the tony confines of the Boca Raton Resort & Club.  Boca—like nearby Delray—is steeped in history and the Boca Raton Resort & Club radiates all the glamour and glitz of its roaring Twenties era.  And then some.  Built the same year as The Colony by legendary architect Addison Mizner, this icon of elegance blossomed from a 100-room hotel (the most expensive ever constructed at the time) to a 1,000 plus-room resort now part of The Waldorf-Astoria Collection.  Modeled after a Spanish castle, I liken this impressive assemblage of buildings and outcroppings to The Broadmoor, the Grande Dame of the Rockies in Colorado Springs.  Fortunately I can speak about the Broadmoor from firsthand experience, although my Boca Raton Resort & Club information has come from a variety of sources including Carole Boucard, P.R. Director of the resort.  Carole recently chatted about Boca and her fine property on Travel Fun and the feedback from members of my audience was remarkable.  Both the radio interview and its announcement prompted many people to write in about their memorable experiences at the resort and its environs.  Clearly the Boca Raton Resort & Club ranks as one of America’s more treasured places of lodging.  And their selection of dining options places them as an important culinary destination along Florida’s Gold Coast as well.

Morimoto: One of Many Superlative Restaurants at the Boca Raton Resort & Club

Carole rounded out our program by informing me about some of the hotel’s great summer deals, many of which must be booked by May 10th.  I quickly thought about the often chilly string of days that typically occur here in the Rockies during July and August, the period so aptly named monsoon season.  For me, the current so-called mud season is just a small puddle to cross compared to those months.  I’m happy to hole myself up in Aspen as the warm days of spring emerge between a torrent of wet, snowy days.  But I’m thinking about more balmy locales nonetheless and Delray Beach and Boca Raton, both just a short distance from easy-to-get-to Miami, have recently been added to my must-see list of destinations.  And, of course, I’m a sucker for historic properties every time.

Porch Days Are Calling at the Boca Raton Resort & Club

The Colony Hotel & Cabana Club, 525 East Atlantic Avenue, Delray Beach, 561-276-4123, www.thecolonyhotel.com

Boca Resort & Club, 501 East Camino Real, Boca Raton, 888-491-2622, www.bocaresort.com

More Colony Quaintness

Suggested Reading

“Boomtime Boca:  Boca Raton in the 1920s,” by Susan Gill and The Boca Raton

Historical Society

“The Boca Raton Resort & Club:  Mizner’s Inn,” by Donald Curl and The Boca Raton Historical Society

“Skinny Dip,” by Carl Hiaasen

Boca Resort Dressed for a Wedding

Thank you to Bob Biener, one of my Travel Fun readers and listeners, who passed on the above photo (and many more fabulous shots) to me.  His cousin was married at the resort just recently.