Viva Italia, Viva Italian Americans, Viva la Dolce Vita in Denver

The Sweet Life: Italian Style

Clemente.  My name ends with a vowel, just like Delgato, Cardaluccio, pizza.  When my grandparents emigrated from Italy our name was actually spelled Clementi.  They Americanized it somewhat with an “e.”  Even Frankie Valli once contemplated making  his stage name Vally with a “y.”  But he opted to be a good ‘ole Jersey Boy and settled on Valli and in so doing preserved more of his Italian heritage.

Jersey Boys: Italian American Guys

My dad is a Frankie, too.  Not from Jersey but from Troy, New York.  Close enough.  Recently the music of the Jersey Boys helped him to reconnect with his roots.  I spent a lot of time back east this past summer helping my father get through a difficult passage in his life and every step of the way we were serenaded by the melodious and memorable sounds of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons.  We became Jersey Boys addicts.  My dad had seen this explosive Broadway show that recounts the story of four Italian American guys and their rise to fame last spring.  Their hits from “Sherry” to “Oh, What a Night” to “My Eyes Adored You” to “Can’t Take My Eyes Off of You” and more buoyed him up to a place of joy he had not known in quite some time.  Through this music, I could tell my dad was retracing part of his own story.  And I was right there with him, rediscovering a sound and a slice of Italian American culture I had not paid much attention to in quite some time.

So when I heard Jersey Boys was coming to Denver at the end of last year, I knew I had to experience this show.  I had originally hoped to go with my father but he wasn’t planning to make it to Colorado this winter; it would be the first ski season in many years he would miss.  Still, I needed to go; I had to hear this foot-stomping music live.  I also knew it would be a way to reconnect with my dad even if he wasn’t seated beside me.

Since I rarely do anything halfway, I decided to plan twenty-four hours around an Italian theme in Denver.  The logical hotel choice would have been Hotel Teatro, Denver’s premiere boutique hotel, an intimate establishment that exudes all the sophistication and style of an exclusive Italian villa.  Having stayed at Teatro before, I decided to try something new and instead opted for The Brown Palace, a Denver landmark of the finest quality designed in the Italian Renaissance style.  (Who ever would have imagined that of such a great western destination?)

The Brown Palace: A Classic Beauty

I checked in to The Brown Palace Hotel early—just after noon—and was instantly transported into a world of grandeur most associated with the finest hotels of New York, Chicago or London.  The bellman whisked me through the ornately decorated lobby and inner courtyard festooned with garlands, beads and some 100,000 little white lights.  A glittering chandelier as big as a small hot air balloon hung blithely over the courtyard which was now filling up with people turned out in their Sunday best; most were gathering for tea, a Brown Palace tradition carried out throughout the year that becomes exceedingly prized during the holidays.  (People reserve as much as a year in advance for a teatime table here in December but if there’s only two of you and your schedule is flexible, there’s always a chance you may be seated.)

I hastened to arrange a few of my belongings in my room before hustling off to meet David Craig, the General Manager of Hotel Teatro, for lunch.  Dave has turned out to be my point man of sorts in Denver since he is always eager to share his best addresses with me in order to clue me in on what’s hot and what’s not in this burgeoning city.

We had dined before together at Prima Ristorante, Teatro’s signature restaurant overseen by renowned chef, Kevin Taylor, although today Dave decided to introduce me to one of his favorite out-of-house Italian restaurants instead.  (Located almost next door to The Denver Center for the Performing Arts, know that Prima is a pre theater hot spot and also a favorite for a post theater nightcap and dessert.  Its high ceiling, long, flowing curtains ruby red velvet banquettes evoke a theatrical mood that rounds out beautifully any evening devoted to the arts.)

Knowing that I’m a big fan of Larimer Square, the anchor to Denver’s historic LoDo, or lower downtown, Dave ushered me into Osteria Marco, one of many fine restaurants created within the subterranean locales of this bustling street.  Brick walls, black tables and dark lighting further enhanced the downstairs hideaway feel of this large, informal Italian eatery.  Dave took charge of the ordering and our table was promptly covered with a sampling of Osteria Marco specialities including burrata, a homemade cheese made of a firm mozzarella exterior and a creamy ricotta center, bresaola, a cured meat, and meatball sliders.  The restaurant is, in fact, well known for their house made cheeses and meats in addition to showcasing some savory offerings from the rotisserie.    This is not your typical Italian restaurant, though, since the menu features only one pasta, a homemade lasagna that I would imagine is the talk of the town.

Dave and I talked about the Italian food scene throughout much of the lunch since I made it clear that I had suddenly become obsessed with everything Italian, at least for this twenty-four hour period.  “There’s not an Italian neighborhood in Denver like you find in many other big American cities,” he explained.  “But we do have some fantastic Italian restaurants.  Frank Bonanno is one of the owners and chefs behind Osteria Marco,” he continued.  And it was only minutes later that this driving force on the culinary scene in Denver passed by our table to say hello.  It’s always impressive to see a chef working the room but even more so when the guy in charge is also the inspiration behind two other dining establishments, Luca d’Italia, a high-end Italian restaurant and Bones, a soon-to-be-launched noodle bar that I’m sure will be the next fun place to check out on the Denver dining scene.

“Il Posto is one of the very best Italian restaurants in Denver,” Dave added as I queried him further about the Italian dining extravaganza that I was soon beginning to associate with the mile-high city.  “I like it because Andrea (the chef and owner) makes the menu fresh every day.  He rarely uses more than five ingredients.  They do the best red beet risotto you could imagine.  Their espresso pasta is really good, too.  Their cuisine is really innovative.”  My mouth was already watering even though I was just finishing up my last forkfuls of rotisserie chicken salad with pancetta, blue cheese and red onion at Osteria Marco.

“I’ve been to Barolo Grill before,” I chimed in.  “They offer an extraordinary dining experience as well.  Chef Brian Laird also composes his dishes around the best-sourced ingredients of the season.  He’s a big proponent of the Slow Food movement,” I trailed off once David Craig, one of the more influential persons in the hospitality world in Denver concurred that this Cherry Creek establishment is indeed a superior address.

Agnello con Fagioli at Panzano

“And what do you think about Panzano at Hotel Monaco?”  I ventured, knowing that perhaps I was entering touchy territory since I was referring to an Italian restaurant that happened to be housed in Denver’s other first class boutique hotel.  (The parallels between Prima Ristorante and Hotel Teatro were striking.)

“Oh, that’s a fine address as well,” Dave declared without flinching.

“Good, because that’s where I’m headed tonight.”

Dave and I bidded ciao to each other and I was left feeling grateful that he always provided not only good company but excellent addresses during my stays in Denver.

I hopped on the free bus at the 16th Street Mall and headed toward the Denver Art Museum, one of my perennial favorites in this cosmopolitan capital of the West.  Usually I check out one or more of the temporary exhibitions here, most of which are located in the new section of the museum, the edgy, Rockies-inspired Hamilton Building, designed by Daniel Libeskind.  But this time I headed directly to their permanent collection of European and American Art housed in the old section of the museum.  I was in quest, more specifically, of Italian art.

Museum going after a leisurely lunch is one of my favorite things to do when traveling.  Here I was taken by their choice selection of paintings and furnishings showcased against richly painted walls the color of the earth and sky.  I was thrilled to discover that the museum boasted works by many Italian masters including Botticelli, Veronese and Caravaggio.  My impressions were further enhanced by the Campari and Pinot Grigio I had consumed at lunch.  I was truly living la dolce vita.  Had it not been for the occasional descriptions in English, I would have thought I was at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.

The closing bell snapped me out of my reverie and I hurried back to the hotel to change for the evening.  Turndown had already taken place and housekeeping had left gentle, classical music tuned in in the room.  I soaked it up with as much earnest as if I was listening to an Italian aria at La Scala.

Panzano Before the Theater Crowd Hits

I welcomed the short walk over to Panzano where I was to meet my friend Margie, another well-traveled gal and ardent Francophile, for dinner.  It was hard to imagine I was going to be feasting again but by the time the waiter brought over a glass of Prosecco and a plate of figs accompanied by mascarpone and grilled pancetta, I was easily back into the mode of fine Italian dining.  More glorious courses followed—from Panzano’s award-winning grilled (yes, grilled!) Ceaser salad to Spaghetti Carbonara to Scallopine di Vitello to chocolate truffle cake—each accompanied by a perfectly paired sampling of wine from some of the most distinctive vineyards in Italy.

I learned that Chef Elise Wiggins wields her culinary genius here with an expertise that transforms local and sustainable ingredients into contemporary Northern Italian cuisine at lunch and dinner.  Here, too, the foundation of the restaurant’s offerings revolves around many homemade specialties such as pancetta, sundried tomatoes, tapenade, gelato and an array of flavorful breads.  Margie and I joked about switching our allegiances from France to Italy.  Clearly she was very much in the spirit of my Italian theme and had even donned a Missoni top for the occasion.

We trotted off to the Denver Center for the Performing Arts to see Jersey Boys, the main act in my Italian flight of fancy.  Soon we felt high on food and drink and dance and music.  I mouthed the words to the songs that I had come to know by heart with my dad.  It was extraordinary to hear these familiar tunes performed live.  Suddenly I felt empty though and pangs of sadness hit as I tumbled down from my sugar rush.  I missed my dad terribly and wished he, too, was sitting there with Margie and me.  But the music grabbed me again, allowing no room for a funk.  I got right back in the groove and in so doing realized that my dad was, in fact, right there with me.  He was singing and laughing and snapping his fingers right along with me.  That’s the magic of music and memories.  That’s the magic of Jersey Boys.

I lounged in my luxurious room at The Brown Palace the better part of the next day, languishing over the Jersey Boys program and the booklet that recounted the rich history of this illustrious place of lodging.  A maple syrup-drenched Belgium waffle and a flood of coffee served as the best remedy for my excesses from the day before.  I mustered up just enough strength to pad down into the recently opened Brown Palace Spa to take a steam.  I was tired from my whirlwind trip to Italy but felt amazingly well for having indulged in so much food and wine.  It was all of the finest quality, so I was not surprised about feeling so clear-headed and well hydrated.

The Brown Palace Atrium Outside of the Holiday Season

I looked over the garland draped railing of the atrium-like courtyard onto the festive scene below.  Little girls scampered about in jewel-colored velvet dresses with teddy bears tucked under their arms.  Three-tiered silver stands were being gingerly placed on the hotel’s eclectic assortment of tea tables.  Tea and Champagne (or perhaps Prosecco?) was flowing.  It was another joyous day at The Brown Palace.  I checked out humming Jersey Boys tunes in my head.  I felt more proud of my Italian-ness than ever before.  This might indeed be the first chapter to a new life, I thought.  Maybe I’ll get around to learning Italian after all.  And I know I’ll embark upon another themed weekend in the not-too-distant future.  Why, there’s Sonnenalp in Vail for a hit of Bavaria and, of course, Paris Las Vegas, both within a reasonable distance away.

Denver Hotels with an Italian Flair

Hotel Teatro, 1100 14th Street, 303-228-1100 or 800-727-1200, www.hotelteatro.com

The Brown Palace Hotel, 321 17th Street, 303-297-3111 or 800-321-2599, www.brownpalace.com

Hotel Monaco, 1717 Champa Street at 17th, 303-296-1717, www.monaco-denver.com

Denver Italian Restaurants

Prima Ristorante, 1100 14th Street, 303-228-1100 or 800-727-1200, www.hotelteatro.com/teatro/dining/prima

Osteria Marco, 1453 Larimer, 303-534-5855, www.osteriamarco.com

Luca d’Italia, 711 Grant Street, 303-832-6600, www.lucadenver.com

Il Posto, 2011 East 17th Street, 303-394-0100, www.ilpostodenver.com

Barolo Grill, 3030 East Sixth Avenue, 303-393-1040, www.barologrilldenver.com

Panzano, 909 17th Street at Champa, 303-296-3525, www.panzano-denver.com

Maggiano’s Little Italy, 500 16th Street, 303-260-7707, www.maggianos.com, another of my Denver favorites.  The food and ambiance are so good and authentic that you’d never know that this is a chain restaurant.  I love the Denver Pavillon location, just off the 16th Street Mall, which is very close to the Denver Art Museum.

Denver Arts Musts

The Denver Center for the Performing Arts, 303-893-4000 or 303-893-4100 or 800-641-1222,  www.denvercenter.org

Denver Art Museum, 13th Avenue between Broadway and Bannock Streets, 720-865-5000, www.denverartmuseum.org

Italian Food and Wine Programs in Denver

Panzano, Barolo Grill and Osteria Marco offer cooking classes and wine tastings on a fairly regular basis.

Travel to Italy

Go here to see travel recommendations from Barolo Grill.

And for those seeking a French fix, go to Spirit of Provence to discover Margie’s passion for France and French goods.