Giving Thanks for Elegant French Meals

Feeling Beautiful in the French Basque Country

I’ve been very spoiled in my life. Not spoiled in general. But most definitely spoiled with fabulous meals. As a travel writer, one with an expertise in France, I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy some very fine dining. And each experience remains etched in my mind. Really.

Part theater, part culinary extravaganza, part voyage à deux, or among a few and yes, even all alone, dining out promises an all encompassing sensory journey, especially when it takes place in France. 

Here I want to highlight two extraordinary meals in the Basque country of southwest France that I shared with my guy, Steve Togni, an Italian-born hotel general manager (in Telluride) who is–not surprisingly–blessed with a discerning palate. These dinners were all the more exceptional because they took place during a surf trip to the French Basque country. Well in truth, it was a vacation for both of us with a very strong emphasis on surfing for Steve. Typically during such trips, he’s to bed by 9pm because when it comes to surfing, he’s all business. His dinners usually consist of a plate of grilled fish, rice and beans and a couple of cold beers, particularly when he travels to countries such as Costa Rica and Nicaragua. But he told me he’d be up for nice dinners out and boy was I happy that he more than obliged.

Exceptional Food and Service at Château de Brindos in Anglet

In Anglet, just a few surf breaks from Biarritz and a short distance from our hotel in Guéthary, we were wooed by exceptional service at the Château de Brindos, a five-star restaurant and hotel. Here the chef chooses from the freshest regional ingredients for each of his innovative dishes. Impeccable service reigns supreme; one snap of the wrist serves up the perfect pour, a necessary gesture when ladling delectable juices over freshly prepared dishes. Watching the waiters move is like witnessing art in motion.

A Cozy Corner at Château de Brindos

Nothing was over played though and everything tasted sublime.

Château de Brindos Lobby and Bar

Steve and I thankfully ordered Crêpes Suzette and allowed ourselves to be mesmerized by the table side preparations. Just take a look at this show.

Sugar Starter

Here We Go

Nice

Adding the Grand Marnier

Oh Yeah

Serving Them Up

I hope that wasn’t too much of a tease. I can still taste their buttery orange-flavored goodness on my lips. This is why you splurge for an exceptional meal, especially in France.

Rejoicing Over My Crêpes

Après Dessert

Les Frères Ibarboure is what the French call une valeur sure, or sure bet (loosely translated). It’s actually une valeur sure extraordinaire and une grande classique in the French Basque country. I first came here in the mid nineties (Yes, I’m that old) when one of my tourism contacts introduced me to this favorite regional restaurant for lunch. With every passing year, it seems to have become increasingly more elegant and refined. Yet despite its exclusivity, this hotel and one-star Michelin restaurant remains as authentic as can be.

Château de Brindos Bar

A Perfectly Chilled Glass of Irouleguy from Les Frères Ibarboure

Steve and I opened our palates with a perfectly chilled glass of Irouleguy, the quintessential Basque wine served throughout. Here it was white and of superior quality. An artful plate of amuse bouche (amuse mouth) was placed before us as we perused the menu. 

I selected the Basque Country farm-raised veal served with a variety of mushrooms in season. Although it was cooked for an hour and a half at low temperature, it was still presented rosé, which is rather rare by American standards. It was succulent.

A different regional wine was served in crystal glasses with each course. I couldn’t help wondering how Steve was going to wake up in the morning. But he was enjoying it immensely. And the servers, although ultra professional, were not a bit pretentious. They were delighted with my questions and enjoyed explaining many of the aspects of the food, wine and service to me. Their knowledge and passion were far reaching. And they knew they had a decent match in me because I had already visited the Basque country before. I did not have to ask, for example, about the piment d’Espelette placed on the table next to the salt. I had already come to love this wonderful red pepper, a fiery addition to most Basque cooking. We all were entertained.

Salt and Esplette Pepper

Amuse Bouche

More Amusement

Delicieux

Fabuleux

In between the first and second course we cleansed our palates with a pause fraicheur, or refreshing pause, in the form of a sort of Italian ice (granité) drizzled with a lychee liqueur. Exquis!

Ruby Red Wine

Zee Cheese Course

The cheese course proved to be equally light and flavorful. I studied this creamy white mousse served with a spoon and instantly discerned that the chef was having fun with a little molecular cuisine. “C’est un brie à la truffe, madame, the server explained and indeed it definitely tasted like light and airy truffle-flavored brie. Quel festin!

Dessert

Such an Encore

After the dessert, we rejoiced in a bit of petite mignardise because in such fine restaurants you are always served an extra sweet at the end of the meal just as you’re presented with a little savory at the beginning. Remember what I said above about theater. Timing, tone and placement are oh-so important, too. As much as it was a stretch, I breathed deeply and made room for the house-made salted butter caramel macaron, a melt-in-your-mouth wonder that took this meal up yet another notch.

My Handsome Dinner Date

We left feeling very much satiated and also quite in love. (Fine dining has a way of doing that to you.) Steve would be paddling off the meal the next day in the surf off of Guéthary or Bidart. I planned a long walk replete with lots of poking around. Either way, we knew that the moments we were together and apart in this heartwarming region of France would remain with us forever. And for that and all of our fine French dining we would be forever grateful.

For more on our trip to the Basque Country, read Bodacious Biarritz.

Go here for tourism information specific to this part of the French Basque country.