Royal Fascination

Windsor Castle

Windsor Castle

I don’t know about you but I can’t get enough of England’s royal family these days. Everywhere you turn there’s another image, clip or sound bite of William and Kate. And the world’s just gearing up since their spring nuptials are nearly five months away. Everyone loves fairy tales, and isn’t that what the House of Windsor provides?

Windsor Castle Norman Gateway

Windsor Castle Norman Gateway

The stories wouldn’t be nearly as interesting if they were about perfect people that lead perfect lives. That’s exactly what makes these royals so real, dare I say so relatable? Of course we poured our hearts out for Princess Diana and all the seemingly insurmountable challenges she faced during her life. And who didn’t shed a tear when she met her tragic demise?

But if you really want to embrace a royal story that you can relate to, go see “The King’s Speech,” a feature film that was released nationwide a week or so ago. I was lucky enough to see it in Telluride over Labor Day weekend when it was shown at the Telluride Film Festival. (Yes, like many other films, it actually came here before the Toronto Film Festival.) It deeply moved me not only for its superb depiction of the royal family (indeed, I love all the accoutrements of such elegant lives) but more importantly, for its gripping portrayal of a flawed man who had to become king. It’s clear that the Duke of York, played by Colin Firth (who received a special tribute at the Telluride Film Festival this year), never wanted to become king. But he was forced to step up to this enormous responsibility when his brother, King Edward VIII, abdicated to marry Wallace Simpson, the American divorcée. Assuming this position would be daunting to even the most carefully prepared heir to the throne, but downright frightening for someone that suffered from stuttering. Remember this was the golden age of the radio and speeches needed to be eloquently delivered. Ah, fairy tales always have their twists and turns.

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25 Oct 2010, 4:07pm
Art & Culture Cycling Denver:
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Hysterical in Denver

THE Most-Talented Cast of "The 39 Steps"

THE Most-Talented Cast of DCTC's "The 39 Steps"

I’ve been traveling tons the past few weeks and as you can see from my last blog, failed miserably at posting stories from the road. I have, however, rounded up lots of material for a great variety of pieces that I plan to publish in the upcoming weeks.

My travels began in Denver where I picked up my parents at DIA for a two-week blitz throughout Colorado and the Southwest. Stay tuned for dispatches about road tripping with seniors (average age: eighty-years young) and the wonders of the West.

My mother and I love going to the movies and the theater together. This time we were particularly well served in the latter at the Denver Center Theatre Company’s (DCTC) staging of the madcap Hitchcock spoof “The 39 Steps.” Boy, did we roar! I have never laughed so hard at the theater and you can bet I was not alone. This lightning-paced comedy has been such a hit, in fact, that “The 39 Steps” has been extended in Denver’s Ricketson Theatre through November 21st. Don’t miss it! You’re sure to be entranced by this hilarious send-up of Hitchcock’s 1935 film noir thriller in which four actors deftly take on over fifty characters. Yes, that’s right––over fifty characters, each one more amusing and convincingly played than you can imagine. The gentleman seated next to us was seeing this production for the second time in as many weeks. If I lived in Denver, I’d sign up for round two as well. It’s great to laugh and delight in such clever entertainment.

For added fun, take a Denver pedicab to or from the theatre. These three-wheeled bicycles are perfect for the mile-high city where fair weather is more the norm than visitors realize. You can hail these environmentally-friendly rickshaws outside of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts complex as well as at most other tourist attractions. My Mom and I did just that and continued to laugh all the way back to our hotel.

Denver Ricketson Theatre Tip:  Order your libation before the show and it will be ready for you at intermission without the wait.

Sam Gregory as "Richard Hannay" in the DCTC production of "The 39 Steps"

Sam Gregory as "Richard Hannay in "The 39 Steps"--just one of many modes of transportation you'll experience in this show!

Colorful Colorado

Telluride's Valley Floor

Telluride’s Valley Floor

Wow.  Wow.  Wow.  What an extraordinary end of summer/fall it has been.  We’ve had nearly three weeks of breathtakingly-beautiful weather here in the Rockies and the forecast promises more sun and warmth for the upcoming week.  The colors have popped.  It looks like the leaves in the San Juan Mountains, the range located in the southwestern corner of Colorado, will be peaking this weekend.  Usually when that happens, a snowstorm blows in, but this year we’re to be blessed with more fine leaf-peeping days throughout a good part of October.  Scenery like this makes me wonder why people battle the crowds and traffic jams of New England for their annual fall foliage tour.  I recommend you sign up for the wide, open spaces and shimmering aspens of the Rockies next year!

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Rubens, Poussin and Seventeenth Century Artists at the Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris

Louis Le Nain, Le Concert

Louis Le Nain, Le Concert


Peter Paul Rubens, Le Bain de Diane

Peter Paul Rubens, Le Bain de Diane

It promises to be a gem of a show in a jewel of a museum. And it’s opening very soon, September 24, to be exact. Thank goodness it runs through January 24, 2011.  That still gives me time to figure out how to beam myself over to Paris for this most alluring exhibition. You see, along with eighteenth century France, I’m passionate about the seventeenth century, especially when it comes to Flemish Baroque and French Classical school paintings from that era. And that’s exactly the focus of this Rubens, Poussin and Seventeenth Century Artists exhibition at the Musée Jacquemart-André in Paris. Think fleshy figures by Rubens, dramatic displays by Poussin, pleasant scenes by Le Nain, all masterfully painted in the richest and most penetrating colors imaginable.

My first visit to Europe was to Antwerp, Belgium, home of Peter Paul Rubens, grand master of the Baroque. I visited The Rubens House, an impressive dwelling that looks like it’s just out of the film “The Girl with the Pearl Earring.” From there, I traveled to Paris and as they say, the rest is history.

The Pastry Selection of the Musée Jacquemart-André

The Pastry Selection of the Musée Jacquemart-André

This exhibition offers a unique view of these two great artistic movements of the seventeenth century.  And best of all, these extraordinary works will be presented in one of the loveliest and most intimate museums of Paris.  I can imagine no better setting.  A visit to the Musée Jacquemart-André is a must, even if you can’t make this show.  It is a glorious temple of art, originally a private home of notable art collectors, where you can admire significant pieces from the Italian Renaissance, eighteenth-century France and Flemish masters such as Rembrandt at any given time.

But here’s the pièce de résistance of the Jacquemart-André museum:  They boast an exquisite café/tea salon that makes you feel as though you’re sitting in a painting while you enjoy your perfect respite within this most elegant museum.  Mais attention! Too many gâteaux from the pastry cart are apt to leave you feeling decidedly Rubenesque. Only kidding, enjoy to your heart’s delight!  Isn’t that sometimes what Paris is all about?

Musée Jacquemart-André, 158 boulevard Haussmann, eighth arrondissement, 33 (0)1.45.62.11.59, Musee-Jacquemart-Andre.com

The Café/Tea Salon of the Jacquemart-André Museum

The Café/Tea Salon of the Musée Jacquemart-André


Nicolas Poussin, Coriolan

Nicolas Poussin, Coriolan

Thank you to Sofiacome and FranceGuide for the above images.

20 Sep 2010, 7:32pm
Art & Culture Colorado Four Corners Hotels & Lodging Podcasts The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region According to Fred Wildfang

Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region According to Fred Wildfang

The Marquee-Lined Hallway of The Rochester Hotel, The Hollywood of the Rockies

The Marquee-Lined Hallway of The Rochester Hotel, the Hollywood of the Rockies

Writer and historian Frederic B. Wildfang has made Durango and the outlying area his passion for nearly two decades.  Author of a handful of books about this colorful corner of southwestern Colorado, Fred clearly loves the San Juans, the most striking mountain range of the Rockies.  “It’s an interesting area historically and scenically,” Fred says in a recent Travel Fun interview.  And certainly its geological richness has left an indelible mark on the region from mining and ranching to tourism and western-movie making and much more.

Preserving Durango's Heritage:  Fred Wildfang and Family

Preserving Durango's Heritage: Fred Wildfang and Family

As for Durango, a dynamic town where Fred lives and works, Fred feels it’s a very friendly place filled with a great mix of the old and the new from weather-worn cowboys to fresh-faced outdoor enthusiasts from the nearby college.  He hikes everyday in the Weminuche Wilderness, the largest road-less area in Colorado, which lies just outside his door.  Fred also loves to use Durango as a base for visiting other great western destinations such as Creede, Colorado and Lake Powell, Utah.  In his most recent book, “Images of America:  The San Juan Skyway,” Fred features this unbelievably scenic 236-mile loop that wends through glacial valleys and over high ice-sculpted peaks, traversing the old mining towns of Silverton, Ouray, Telluride and Durango.  It’s one of the most renowned drives in America and one that you’ll want to take with Fred’s book in hand.

With such spectacular scenery and a wealth of remnants from the Old West, it’s no wonder so many western movies were filmed in the Four Corners area. Fred’s wife, Diane, and her son, Kirk, took over The Rochester Hotel, an historic hotel in Durango a number of years ago and renovated it to a heartwarming place to stay, one of my favorites in this fun-loving western town.  A must-see tribute to the history of western movie making in the region, the rooms and hallways of this cozy enclave showcase western movie memorabilia from Fred’s collection.  Each of the rooms is named after the movies filmed in and around the San Juans, beginning with “A Ticket to Tomahawk,” a western classic made in 1949 starring Marilyn Monroe. Fred talks about this movie and others in our interview.  You’ll discover that most of the westerns were filmed in the fifties and many boast a connection with the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway, a national treasure that provides reason enough to travel to Durango.

Click on the play button below to hear my interview with Frederic Wildfang.

The Rochester Hotel, 721 East Second Avenue, 970-385-1920 or 800-664-1920, RochesterHotel.com

The Rochester Courtyard with an Old Rail Car

The Rochester Courtyard with an Old Rail Car

Book Picks

In addition to “Images of America:  The San Juan Skyway,” mentioned above, if you’re going to Durango, you’ll also enjoy “Images of America: Durango,” authored by Frederic B. Wildfang as well. Go to ArcadiaPublishing.com to find out about these books and more.

Kenny Gilbert: Always a Top Chef

Chef Kenny Gilbert

Chef Kenny Gilbert

Wow, did you watch Bravo’s Top Chef last night?  Our Telluride favorite, Chef Kenny Gilbert, was voted off the show in a flash in the pan, all due to some kind of flub with beet and goat cheese dishes.  I think that was it—it all happened so fast, I couldn’t keep track.  I hate this part of Top Chef—how one bad dish can blow your whole chance.  I wish they’d find a way of scoring cumulatively, especially since Kenny certainly shined throughout every episode.  The other cheftestants even referred to him as The Black Lightening.  At least the judges commended him in his final episode for his leadership abilities.  It comes as no surprise when you hear about some of his philosophies. Scroll down to his Book Pick at Top Chefs to gain more insight into his approach.

I interviewed Kenny just about a year ago when he was still Executive Chef of a leading hotel here in Telluride.  Click on the play button below to hear him chat about how he became a chef and what’s most important to him in the kitchen.

I had chatted with Kenny on the occasion of the Telluride Festival of the Arts:  A Visual & Culinary Arts Festival that takes place annually in our lovely mountain town. This year it happens August 13-15.  Yes, that means it begins tomorrow, so try to take in at least one event over this fun weekend.

As for me, I’m headed on a rafting trip.  But I’ll keep all my favorite top chefs in mind, particularly since Kelly Liken is still in the running and I think she’s looking mighty fine.

Phish in Telluride: The Day After the Day After

Phish Phans Philing into Telluride Town Park

Phish Phans Philing into Telluride Town Park

Well, we did it. Our little mountain town has survived—very well in fact—the invasion of some 10,000 Phish fans. Aside from a smattering of arrests (mostly drug-related), an excess of garbage (which has already been expediently cleaned up) and a few trampled flower beds, most appears pretty much back to normal.

Sure, here in T-ride we’re accustomed to putting on big festivals, big doings that see the population of our town nearly quadruple in less than forty-eight hours. But this was Phish, the widely popular jam band that enjoys a spectacular following everywhere they go. Even Phish fans have to obtain concert tickets through a carefully orchestrated lottery; their shows consistently sell out in record time and those that make it to the event are die-hards, devoted followers that think nothing about crisscrossing the country to take in a show. Especially if it’s in a venue as stunning as Telluride’s Town Park, a setting as celebrated as the numerous artists that have played there.

Psyched to See the Show

Psyched to See the Show

My first glimpse of dedicated Phish fans en masse occurred late Sunday afternoon, the last day of the Telluride Jazz Festival. The crowd more than doubled, shifting from mountain casual to urban hippie as Phish fans poured into this mellow gathering in Telluride Town Park. I knew already that despite an abundance of tie dye and weed, these folks came from every ilk, every socioeconomic background, every corner of the U.S. Already I suspected many of them to be closet hippies, the kind of people that wore suits and serious expressions most days to work yet their real drug of choice was attending a Phish concert, an enviable outlet that leaves even the most seasoned concert goer in awe.

That’s just how I felt Tuesday night, the second night of Phish’s two-day stint in T-ride. (I had skipped Monday’s show and, in fact, decided only Tuesday morning to attend the second when my boyfriend, Steve, threw a ticket my way. The whole town was buzzing about the event, so how could I stay home?)

It was a gorgeous evening, one of the prettiest of the summer, perfect for baring skin and parading about in all manner of costume-y outfits. And of those there were many. From sequins to tinsel, feathers to beads, face paintings to piercings and tattoos, the entire scene provided some of the best people watching of any concert I’ve attended.

And as the puffy clouds stretched across orangey-pink bands in the faded blue jean sky, the sun set out far beyond our cathedral canyon. My hunny and I remarked about the number of people turning to this gorgeous vision, gazing skyward in amazement, snapping pictures on cell phones and cameras, craning their necks to take in the full glory of this Kodachrome moment.

Our Cathedral Canyon

Our Cathedral Canyon

“I think they’re trying to figure out how much of what they see is real or a hallucination,” my hunny quipped.

Indeed I had never seen so many trip-y looking people. A thick cloud of smoke clung to the air and the smell of pot, tobacco and clove cigarettes permeated the entire park as people swayed and bobbed to the pulsating beat of the music. The crowd roared from the minute Phish took to the stage, mouthed almost every word of every song and communed with one and other as though they were at a massive neighborhood block party (albeit a pretty out-there one). And although the vibe felt relatively mellow, the enthusiasm exhibited among these hardcore fans reverberates through the mob as fast as a rumor spreads that this iconic jam band is coming to town.

“I can’t believe this is all legal,” I commented to my hunny.

“Most of it isn’t,” he replied.

Lighting Up

Lighting Up

Really, in all the concerts I’ve ever attended—from my first biggies in Saratoga Springs (SPAC) which included Fleetwood Mac to Grateful Dead in Boston during my college years to the Rolling Stones and Police in Paris to the countless in Telluride including Dylan—never had I taken in such a scene. Still though, everyone seemed to be in possession of themselves. This must have been what Woodstock was like, I thought to myself. I didn’t know a single song but I had fun, I felt glad to take in such a display.

The mood became more uproarious after the set break when the band broke out with Party Time, a riotous song which prompted fans to toss massive quantities of glow sticks and rings into the audience. Although this jolly show of neon further enhanced the sensational lighting effects of the show, I couldn’t get past how awful it was to mindlessly throw all these toxic, plastic vials about. Clearly a lot of Phish fans lack some real environmental awareness. I had never seen this happen anywhere before, especially not in T-ride. (And if they ever come back here, I doubt they’ll repeat this offense again.)

I actually learned yesterday on the local news that cleaning up from these shows entailed the biggest effort ever. Fortunately we have crews that know how to restore our park to one of the most pristine public places in the country. They combed the last blades of grass for the pesky debris that remained including cherry pits, cigarette butts and bottle caps. Phish fans have a lot to learn from our festivarians, especially from the Telluride Bluegrass devotees, a crowd that’s well versed in protecting the environment. But hey, they’ve been coming to our beautiful mountain town for nearly four decades.

All things considered, you did good Phish.  Just next time, tell your Phans to leave the glow sticks at home and to better pick up after themselves. Oh, and maybe you could turn the music down a little. That was the loudest concert I ever attended and it feels like my ears are still ringing. Liked the improv though. And, of course, the super-friendly, groovy, free-spirited people.

Phish Jamming on Telluride Town Park Stage

Phish Jamming on Telluride Town Park Stage

Thank you to Merrick Chase, from Telluride Photography, for the above images.  To view the entire two days of Phish in Telluride (and more!), visit the Telluride Photography Web site and blog.

For more on Telluride festivals, read Summer in Telluride:  A Sea of Festivals and More.

22 Jul 2010, 12:53pm
Art & Culture Mountain Living Music & Dance Shopping The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes

Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes

Upper Alpine Pools and Aspen Trees at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens

Upper Alpine Pools and Aspen Trees at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens

Our mountain meadows and towns blossom into wondrous playgrounds almost as soon as the snow melts here in the Rockies.

It’s not always easy, however, to hike up to high alpine pastures to marvel at our summertime display of wildflowers. Even if we do, there’s little chance we could delight in the beauty of the mountain flora while being serenaded by a world-class orchestra. Yet this midsummer scenario is possible in the city of Vail.

Alpine Rock Garden

BFAG Alpine Rock Garden

Such was the case one morning recently when I strolled into the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens, a carefully crafted celebration of the beauty and diversity of alpine flora, open daily from sunrise to sunset, from snowmelt to snowfall, for all to see. Experiencing the gentle waterfalls, alpine ponds and rock gardens of this colorful site would have pleased me immensely on its own. But lucky me. Both times I meandered through these gardens and the nearby trails of Ford Park, I was wooed by the sound of music, the sound of the Philadelphia Orchestra to be exact. The butterflies—along with my step—appeared to bounce sprightly from flower bed to flower bed with each new stanza.

I quickly learned that the orchestra was rehearsing in the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, a marvelous outdoor venue, located next to the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. This little prelude prompted me to rearrange my schedule in order to attend an evening performance, one of many musical events put on by the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival through August 3rd.

I traded my sportswear and flip flops for a flouncy skirt and top and went hand in hand to the concert with my hunny who was also smartly dressed. And thank goodness we were. What a chic congregation! We both agreed that this is where we saw one of the greatest concentrations of tony folk—all fit, tanned and well turned out—in the Rockies. Most were of un certain age, which to us dispelled our previously held notion that you don’t see many older people in the mountains. (Really you don’t but if you’re going to see a good show of them, it’s likely to be at one of the many culturally- or intellectually-stimulating events that take place in Aspen and Vail during the summer.)

Bravo! at The Gerald Ford Amphitheater

Bravo! at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater

The scene was perfectly charming. We bobbed between avid outdoor concert goers who clearly knew a thing or two about picnic-ing en élégance. (I spotted one golden-crusted quiche delicately dished out with a silver server by an attractive picnic goer.) The venue’s wine concession impressed me the most though. Never before had I seen such a variety of bottles served up so efficiently—complete with plastic wine bucket and glasses—for guests to bring back to their seats, both on the lawn and within the amphitheater. Grande classe. Truly this was not a popcorn and soda crowd, although these snacks sell here as well.

Phillie's View From the Stage

Phillie's View from the Stage

The notes from the concert continued to dance blissfully in our heads as we strolled out of the Ford Park on this beautiful summer’s eve. The vibrant, whimsical scene at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens complemented the sophisticated setting of the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater to a T.

And throughout, the magnificent Rocky mountains stood as the backdrop for all.

One Sweet Boutique

One Sweet Boutique

Ford Park is located at the east end of Vail off Gore Creek Drive.

Know that the Vail International Dance Festival holds many of its performances at the Gerald Ford Amphitheater from July 27th through August 10th as well.

Don’t miss the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens Gift Shops.  The Schoolhouse at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens is open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Visit this adorable old structure for a harvest of gift items, all on the garden theme. Their Alpine Treasures in-town gift shop in Vail Village is open year-round.

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