10 Jul 2012, 3:18pm
Colorado Hotels & Lodging Mountain Living Restaurants Spas The Rockies:
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Back to Normal at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs

Poolside Luxe at The Broadmoor

What a difference a day makes. It sounds trite but boy, does it ring true.

A week can make even more of a difference. This past week of moisture—day after day of hard driving rains and good soaking showers—has changed the look of Colorado measurably. Although some of our grasses, bushes and shrubs were burned beneath the pounding sun of late spring and early summer, most of our flora has perked up and as I gaze outside my window here in Telluride, the scene appears lush and verdant.

Double Beauty

Today in Colorado Springs, the most destructive fire in the history of Colorado has been declared fully contained. There’s not a trace of smoke in the air (actually there hasn’t been for days). With the monsoonal flows of July and August seemingly settling in throughout the state, I can almost hear every Coloradan breathing a collective sigh of relief.

Now don’t be scared off by the word monsoon! Ours are nothing like what you would expect on the other side of the earth. In the Rockies during most of July and August, you wake up to blue skies that typically cloud over in the afternoon, just enough to give our glorious landscapes a good watering. By late in the day, the sun usually reappears, affording us spectacular sunsets and an abundance of rainbows. This doesn’t happen every day although typically it occurs just enough to keep our mountain-scapes green and fresh.

So in case you haven’t fully absorbed my message, I can tell you now is a great time to visit colorful Colorado. If you want to help those that have suffered from the tremendous outbreak of wildfires we recently experienced, plan a trip to Colorado. If you already have a trip planned, plan another. With all the national news coverage of the fires, you can bet the state’s tourism has been slammed. I wish CNN and others would now broadcast that this great Western state is looking mighty fine and that blooming wildflowers have replaced blooming wildfires.

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The Hotel Denver in Glenwood Springs: Where Casual Elegance Meets Western Charm

The Hotel Denver in Glenwood Springs

There’s nothing like a good, hot soak and then tucking yourself beneath a cozy quilt. Here in Colorado we can do that all year round. Yes, we’ve been experiencing record-breaking heat like most of the rest of the country. Yet no matter how hot it gets, you can always count on it cooling down to delightful temps during our summer evenings. (Even beneath a blazing sun during the day, it’s rarely unbearably hot since our humidity is so low.)

Beguiling Views Inside and Out

So here’s one of the best places in the Rockies for lolling yourself into a super relaxed state:  The Hotel Denver in Glenwood Springs. Check into this historic hotel for a taste of elegant travel from day’s gone by. I fell in love with this charming property years ago, and now that it’s been restored to its quiet splendor and uplifted with today’s modern amenities, it’s a real gem. Wood furnishings, antique lamps, tawny colors and exposed brick distinguish the rooms of this boutique hotel, each as unique and heartwarming as the many quilts you find here. (Some of these beauties are even for sale at reasonable prices downstairs in the lobby!)

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A Great Summer Cocktail: KOTO, Ziggy Marley and Beats Antique in Telluride Town Park

Ziggy Marley

There’s nothing like a summer concert. And Telluride puts on some of the best. Since music and setting come together in the most spectacular ways here in Telluride, don’t miss the opportunity to revel in some real fun this Sunday, July 8th, in Telluride Town Park.

KOTO, Telluride’s community radio station, presents reggae icon Ziggy Marley with special guests Beats Antique, a trio that recently sold out the Filmore in Denver. Gates open at 3 p.m., which leaves you plenty of time to throw down your tarp and stir up the drinks before 4 p.m. when Beats Antique hits the stage. Expect a spectrum of live and digital instrumentation, heavy bass and belly dancing to boot!

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28 Jun 2012, 12:06pm
Colorado Restaurants Telluride:
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Favorite Telluride Restaurants

The Ever-So Lovely New Sheridan Hotel and Chop House

As a resident of Telluride, Colorado, visitors are always asking me about my favorite restaurants in town. And that’s before I even have a chance to tell them I’m a travel writer! No matter where I meet people—in the gondola, on the chairlift or even just out and about nursing a drink or a coffee—the most frequently asked question concerns restaurant recommen-dations. Come to think of it, that’s what I do when traveling as well.

No matter how much you read up on a place, no matter how many online reviews you peruse, smart travelers always want to hear it from the source, a local that exudes enough confidence and soave (moi!) to reassure the visitor that he or she will be pointed in the right direction. When I mention I’m a travel writer who lived in Paris over a decade and nearly as long in Telluride, they practically shout bingo.

Of course I’m prepared to give a full dissertation on all the wonderful eating establishments we enjoy here in Telluride, however, I seemingly always begin my suggestions with my two favorites:  New Sheridan Chop House and Cosmopolitan of Telluride. Both seldom disappoint and more often than not, diners walk away feeling supremely satisfied by all the essential elements of fine dining:  food, ambiance and service. I would add that the price/quality relationship is always right there where it’s supposed to be—that’s to say the amount you pay is worth every penny of the culinary experience these restaurants offer.

Before the summer season kicked off (the Telluride Bluegrass Festival, the official starter, was held last weekend), I revisited my two faves with a more discerning eye and palate. I was there to review and most of all consider all like a visitor to Telluride, a discriminating person that wants to make sure that the nights out of their well-deserved vacation create memorable moments.

Chad Scothorn from Cosmo

At Cosmopolitan of Telluride—affectionately known as Cosmo—Chef Chad Scothorn sent out a few dishes that I normally wouldn’t have ordered. Two stunningly beautiful plates of sushi were among them. I love sushi, however, I wasn’t associating it with Cosmo, a sophisticated restaurant, known for its elegant continental cuisine. What a surprise! Steve (my partner in love and dining here) and I practically swooned over their sushi, a gorgeous fusion of taste, a sort of east meets west take on traditional sushi where different creamy sauces accent the rich flavor of the fish and seafood. Their Scallop Volcano Roll prompted Steve to exclaim “there’s a lot going on in this little sushi roll.” Indeed, the medley of flavors is so delicate that it’s no wonder soy sauce is not served on the side. Cosmo works with Honolulu Fish, so the fish served here in the heart of the Rockies is overnighted-in and is as fresh as anything you’d fine in high-end restaurants in New York or L.A.

Chad, one of Telluride’s top chefs and arguably this town’s most notable restaurateur, also sent out his Finchville Ham starter, a plate filled with savory ham, artichoke salad, local broccoli sprouts, French olives and goat cheese-filled burrata. The latter, made in house like just about everything else here, tasted more like a fresh, creamy mozzarella. I slathered it on thick on the rustic bread served here along with a thin slice of the Finchville Ham. Hmmmm, that along with a few sips of French Chardonnay, made me feel as though I was dining in one of my favorite country inns in Burgundy. Or perhaps it was Provence?

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22 Jun 2012, 2:54pm
Art & Culture Colorado Telluride Telluride Festivals:
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KOTO Brings the Telluride Bluegrass Festival Home

Hail to Mother Bluegrass

Bluegrass music and Telluride, Colorado go together like sunshine, summer and sizzling, take-me-on-a-memorable-ride events. Together these components make one heck of a happening, a kaleidoscopic celebration of music and good times, known as the Telluride Bluegrass Festival, now in its thirty-ninth year.

I’m taking a break from my own festivating to let you know that you, too, can be a part of this world-renowned event. Tune in right now to KOTO, Telluride’s public radio station, to hear the festival broadcast live (that’s during regular festival hours this weekend, of course). Since typically ninety percent of festival artists allow their performances to be aired live on KOTO, you can count on listening to some of the greatest musicians in the land throughout the entire weekend. Click here to see the lineup, throw down your tarp, pour yourself a cool one as fresh and frothy as what you’d find at the KOTO Beer Booth at Bluegrass and allow yourself to be transported to one of the greatest musical gatherings on earth.

Beth Lamberson Interviewing Steve Earle During Last Year’s Bluegrass

“It’s a big undertaking,” says Suzanne Cheavens, co-producer along with Stephen Barrett, of KOTO’s broadcasting of the Telluride Bluegrass Festival. “KOTO is programming and radio, and we’re real proud to put it on,” she adds. “We’re real grateful to Planet Bluegrass for getting this on the air and helping us get in touch with the artists,” Suzanne continues.

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6 Jun 2012, 4:28pm
Colorado Four Corners Hotels & Lodging Music & Dance The Rockies:
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Sultry Summer Evenings at Durango’s Rochester Hotel

The Rochester Hotel & Bar in Durango, Colorado

It’s been feeling like summer around here in southwestern Colorado and there’s no rain in the forecast (sadly since we really do need the moisture). But it’s a great time for enjoying the outdoors, day and night.

Courtyard at The Rochester

Our nicest mountain towns put on summer concerts in unparalleled settings throughout the summer, although most of these happenings don’t begin until July. In Durango, however, you can get a jump on these memorable musical evenings by attending one of the Wednesday June concerts hosted in the courtyard of The Rochester Hotel. Their lineup kicks off tonight with the oh-so talented (and oh-so cute!) Alex Maryol, the soulful Santa Fe bluesman. Happy hour begins at 4 p.m., music from 5:30-7:30 p.m.

The courtyard at The Rochester will be sizzling with musical events every Wednesday in June. Click here for the complete schedule. There you’ll also see other doings announced such as art exhibitions and special parties. To me, The Rochester Hotel & Bar rates as one of the most fun and dynamic places of lodging in this fiery Western town. I’ve always found their courtyard to exude a sultry feel, so I’m sure this is a great place to spend a warm Rocky Mountain evening. Keep in mind, too, that Durango’s temps soar higher than those of Telluride, Aspen and Vail, so partying in the town’s numerous outdoor venues is a huge part of their summer scene.

And if you love old westerns, definitely plan a stay or at least a good look around at The Rochester. For more about this lovely hotel and this bastion of western movie-making tradition, read Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region According to Fred Wildfang. There you’ll also hear writer and historian Frederic B. Wildfang talk about this terrific destination of the West and the outlying area.

Note that The Rochester Bar is open Wednesday, Thursday and Friday from 4 to 7 p.m. You can find The Rochester at 726 E 2nd Avenue in Durango, just one block up from main street; tel.:  970-385-1920.

Alex Maryol at The Rochester Hotel Courtyard

Right to Play, Learn and Inspire at Mountainfilm in Telluride

Mountainfilm Telluride

Here it is Friday afternoon and plus it’s almost summer. Many people in the United States are gearing up for the weekend, starting it full-on actually. This is the time when most of us exercise our God-given right to play. Recreation, sport, play—have you ever contemplated how important this is in our lives? Most of us first learned to play when we were little kids. Play teaches us so much—how to get along, how to compete, how to follow rules and more. It’s not just about fun although fun is a key component to any game.

Right to Play

So imagine being a child in a war-torn country where play of any kind is nonexistent. Frank Marshall, part-time Telluride resident, renowned Hollywood producer and director of the ESPN movie “Right to Play,” talked about his film and the necessity of play last weekend at a coffee talk at Mountainfilm Festival here in T-ride. Mr. Marshall told the story about how one kid in a far flung, ruined country became popular because he had a long sleeve shirt that could be rolled up into a ball and used for play. Contemplate that when you’re out on your boat this weekend.

Thank goodness there are heros like Johann Olav Koss, an Olympic speed-skating champion from Norway that used his drive and influence to create the global organization Right to Play. Now over 700,000 children in about two dozen countries are benefiting from the joy and discovery of play made possible by Johann Koss, a score of other Olympic athletes and teams of workers from around the world. Frank Marshall captures the indomitable spirit of this Olympic champion and the hope and love he brings to the children touched by Right to Play. Best of all:  You can watch the forty-two minute “Right to Play” film tomorrow afternoon, Saturday June 2nd, on ABC. Check your local listings for the correct time in your zone. It’s such a wonderful film that I’d guess it will be played again on other outlets at other times. more »

30 May 2012, 5:00pm
Art & Culture Colorado Podcasts Telluride Travel:
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Sharon Shuteran: Telluride’s Traveler Extraordinaire and So Much More

Sharon

Telluride, Colorado, my home base for nearly nine years, is a community of travelers. It’s funny since it’s such a drop-dead gorgeous place you’d think no one would ever leave. Plus our remote location requires a good effort for exploring faraway destinations. (The nearest major airport is a six-hour drive away.)

We do, however, have two so-called off-seasons, one in the spring, the other in the fall. During these periods our awe-inspiring scenery might not show the full measure of its glory and most activities—tourist and other-wise—experience a lull. Plus intrepid travelers and adventuresome types of every ilk—from well-to-do trust funders to starving lifties—populate the town and these people give “being on the go” new meaning. (If they’re not out climbing a mountain at home, they’re likely surfing in Nicaragua or helping the needy on the other side of the globe.)

Indeed, Telluride and travel go together like skis on snow.

So it’s with tremendous sadness that our community is dealing with the loss of one of its most beloved residents, Sharon Shuteran, a longtime Tellurider in every sense of the word, a traveler extraordinaire. Truly Sharon embodied the spirit of Telluride like no one else. And there’s no doubt that she served as an excellent ambassadress of the United States and our little mountain town wherever she went on this planet. Officially she worked as the judge of San Miguel County for many years, something that I always liked telling others since that information and one look at Sharon—whether in her Bohemian-inspired dresses or in her style-y ski outfits—spoke volumes about the outdoorsy, fun, open and warm zest for life of our community.

Sharon on the Road

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