25 Oct 2010, 4:07pm
Art & Culture Cycling Denver:
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Hysterical in Denver

THE Most-Talented Cast of "The 39 Steps"

THE Most-Talented Cast of DCTC's "The 39 Steps"

I’ve been traveling tons the past few weeks and as you can see from my last blog, failed miserably at posting stories from the road. I have, however, rounded up lots of material for a great variety of pieces that I plan to publish in the upcoming weeks.

My travels began in Denver where I picked up my parents at DIA for a two-week blitz throughout Colorado and the Southwest. Stay tuned for dispatches about road tripping with seniors (average age: eighty-years young) and the wonders of the West.

My mother and I love going to the movies and the theater together. This time we were particularly well served in the latter at the Denver Center Theatre Company’s (DCTC) staging of the madcap Hitchcock spoof “The 39 Steps.” Boy, did we roar! I have never laughed so hard at the theater and you can bet I was not alone. This lightning-paced comedy has been such a hit, in fact, that “The 39 Steps” has been extended in Denver’s Ricketson Theatre through November 21st. Don’t miss it! You’re sure to be entranced by this hilarious send-up of Hitchcock’s 1935 film noir thriller in which four actors deftly take on over fifty characters. Yes, that’s right––over fifty characters, each one more amusing and convincingly played than you can imagine. The gentleman seated next to us was seeing this production for the second time in as many weeks. If I lived in Denver, I’d sign up for round two as well. It’s great to laugh and delight in such clever entertainment.

For added fun, take a Denver pedicab to or from the theatre. These three-wheeled bicycles are perfect for the mile-high city where fair weather is more the norm than visitors realize. You can hail these environmentally-friendly rickshaws outside of the Denver Center for the Performing Arts complex as well as at most other tourist attractions. My Mom and I did just that and continued to laugh all the way back to our hotel.

Denver Ricketson Theatre Tip:  Order your libation before the show and it will be ready for you at intermission without the wait.

Sam Gregory as "Richard Hannay" in the DCTC production of "The 39 Steps"

Sam Gregory as "Richard Hannay in "The 39 Steps"--just one of many modes of transportation you'll experience in this show!

2 Aug 2010, 11:49am
Cycling French Life:
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From Girly-Girl to Tour Aficionado

Frenchified Tour Follower in T-ride

Frenchified Tour Follower in T-ride

It’s been just over a week now that the Tour de France rolled into Paris on its final stage. If you’re at all like me, you may be feeling a bit of Tour withdrawal. Fortunately I’m in the throes of writing a book, a romantic adventure set in France (mais oui!), that also highlights the Tour de France. This way I’m on my bike and thinking about the dazzling peloton crisscrossing France most days, at least in my mind. So my Tour continues.

If you’ve read some of the recent posts in this blog, you may be wondering how such a super feminine gal became so hooked on this major sporting event. Well here’s the backstory.

I grew up with five brothers and no sisters. This meant I was destined to be either a tomboy or a priss. I became the latter. I learned French, how to tie a scarf and how to fix myself up with little visible effort put forth very early on. Eleven years of living in Paris followed. The die was cast, I had become a femme du monde of sorts, a well-traveled woman who valued the elegance and refinement a life in France has to offer.

Sports had little to do with my Parisian world; like most French women, I stayed in shape from all the walking I did in the French capital and by minimizing my portion sizes. The idea of watching any kind of a sporting event in person or on T.V. was considered by my then French husband (of noble descent) something for the masses. (Tuning into Rolland Garros, or the French Open, was acceptable, but anything else was for the most part considered plouc or hillbilly-like.)

Then I moved back to the States, discovered the thrill of road riding and met a super cyclist. I traded out my airy summer skirts and tops for an array of slick cycling jerseys and shorts, the same “silly” outfits I had seen many a Frenchmen squeezed into on Sunday rides in the French countryside.

I brought my bicycle and my American boyfriend on a trip to France and together we pedaled through the rich farmlands, the verdant valleys, the historic hilltop villages and the lush vineyards of my beloved adopted country that I had come to know so well. Yet from the seat of a bicycle I was able to embrace this glorious land in a much different way. My senses felt totally imbued with wonder and satisfaction as I crossed France’s vast fields of sunflowers, its neat rows of lavender, its bunches of grapes hanging from the vine, its Monet-esque meadows dotted with red dabbles of poppies. I readily encountered people as I passed through their villages, towns and hamlets at the tranquil pace I maintained cruising along on my bike.

Tuning into the Tour de France on T.V. seemed like a logical next step. By now I had come to know a fair amount about cycling: I understood that the sport required as much of a team effort as an individual achievement, I realized there was a certain hierarchy to be respected on each team and within the peloton and that it took great talent and lots of experience for one of those “young bucks” to become a top racer.

My American guy coached me about the sport both on and off the bike and I came to consider cycling one of the most demanding athletic feats on the planet. To me, the Tour de France, the grueling three-week bike race that takes place every July in France, seems like Wimbledon, the World Cup of Soccer and the Olympics all combined. Its international flavor also rivals the worldwide appeal of these other renowned sporting events and in the case of the Tour, the organizers put on a show that’s moved to some twenty different locales both in France and in bordering countries every day of the competition.

Enough of this jock talk. I’m a girly-girl, albeit a fairly sophisticated one. You can bet it’s the Tour’s pageantry, the awe-inspiring scenery, the beauty of the cyclists in their vibrant jerseys on their shiny, candy-colored bikes that thrill me the most. Seeing the peloton blow across vast stretches of rural France like a bright swath of Pierre Frey fabric flapping in the wind leaves me breathless. Then on the last day when they descend on Paris like a swarm of bees searching for a hive, I feel my heart quicken, my excitement mount as though I was seeing the City of Light for the first time.

All the years I lived in France, I never attended the final stage of the Tour de France on the Champs-Elysées. Ça ne se fait pas, or that’s not done, was the message that was conveyed to me by my very proper Frenchman. I never sought to explore the event on my own.

It took a move back to the States and a different perspective for that to happen. Here it’s somehow easier for me to be a fan of the Tour de France. It doesn’t mean I have to give up my girly-girl side either.

As I sit here and weave my impressions of this extraordinary event into my story, I replay the Tour’s excitement and pageantry over and over in my head. If you’re a Tour fan, I’m sure you’re doing some of that, too.

Relive Past Tours
Graham Watson, renowned photographer of the Tour de France for over thirty years, chatted with me in a Travel Fun interview. Hope you’ll take some time to listen to our conversation and/or read the story (and see some of his stunning photos)!

Tour Mania Versus Zee Segway

The Segway Peloton of Paris

The Segway Peloton of Paris

I’ve been thinking about whizzing around Paris these days.

It’s July and I’m consumed with The Tour. I’m referring to the Tour de France, as I’m sure you might have guessed.

I love watching the undulating ribbon of the peloton weave its way through France, but it’s in Paris on the last day of this epic bike race that this colorful procession mystifies me the most. I think it’s because Paris is so familiar to me: I’ve walked the great length of the Champs-Elysées countless times, wended my way around the expansive place de la Concorde, strolled beneath the arcades of the rue de Rivoli from Concorde to Palais Royal. Seeing the Tour de France posse (caravan, cyclists, team cars, press and officials) dominate this familiar terrain mesmerizes me the most. How incredibly fitting it is to have some of the world’s finest athletes power over the same routes reserved for royalty and heads of state.

If you’re not able to be in the City of Light on the final day of this great race, I encourage you to at least catch part of the last stage on T.V. Even the lively commentary of the sportscasters can’t drone out the pack’s thunderous rumble over the cobbles, the resounding swoosh and whir as they travel along Paris’s centuries-old streets.

If you’re at all like me, you’ll also be envious of the racers having the streets of Paris to themselves. Quel bonheur! Can you imagine how great that feels, pedaling through these historic streets at lightening speed?

There’s nothing like experiencing a place from a bicycle or I suppose, even a Segway. I’m reminded of this every time I hop on a bike but it really hit home recently when a friend told me about how he breezed around Paris standing head and shoulders above the masses. He had taken a Segway tour and visited a good number of Paris’s best-loved sites and monuments in a flash, without the inconveniences of sore feet or having to get on and off a bus a ton of times.

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1 Dec 2009, 10:09am
Cycling French Life French Provinces Paris Podcasts:
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Listen to Graham Watson Talk the Tour

2010 Tour de France Route

2010 Tour de France Route

The 2010 Tour de France route was posted just over a month ago which means that hotels along the course are booking up fast.  There’s still time, however, to plan a trip to take in some of this renowned bike race next July.  Renowned Tour photographer, Graham Watson, will tell you how.  Read about what I wrote about Graham and his book, “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide,” here.  You can also listen to Graham speak about the Tour and more  by clicking on the play button here:

Talking the Tour with Graham Watson

The Old Always Contrasts with the New at the Tour

The Old Always Contrasts the New at the Tour de France

By now you must have figured out that I have a thing for France.  But it has come as a surprise to many (mostly my French friends!) that I’m crazy about the Tour de France.  How can I not be?  What a wonderful display of French countryside and good looking men!  Of course I also like the international flair of this epic bike race and cycling itself.  (Once I figured out that it’s both a team and an individual sport, I became fascinated with how well the cyclists work together.  Or not.)

Graham and His Basque Driver of Twenty Years

Graham and His Basque Driver of Twenty Years

So you can imagine when I was pitched the idea of interviewing Tour veteran Graham Watson on Travel Fun, I jumped at the chance.  Graham, a renowned cycling photographer, has followed the Tour for about three decades.  He’s one of those dudes perched on the back of un moto that careens in and out of the peloton.  He’s one of sixteen Tour photographers that has that privilege.  (There are 150 official Tour photographers in all.)  “Being a photographer on a motorbike at the Tour de France is the best job there is,” Graham admits without a grain of conceit in his ever-so charming British accent.

I was thrilled to be able to chat with him on the phone from London, fresh off the Tour (that ended this past Sunday).  With the exception of any mention of good looking guys, I learned Graham was attracted to the Tour for much the same reasons as those that have made me such a devotee.  “It was the color, excitement, drama and the possibility of discovering France that drew me to the Tour,” Graham admitted.  In 1977, during his first trip to the Gallic land and his first Tour de France, he realized “France wasn’t so bad.”  Indeed the Tour has been a wonderful means for experiencing France for Graham and today he readily acknowledges that he’s a Francophile.  (So much for the Franco-British and British-Franco rivalry!)

A section of La Corniche, between the Col d'Aubisque and the Col du Soulor, in the 1995 Tour de France

A section of La Corniche, between the Col d'Aubisque and the Col du Soulor, in the 1995 Tour de France

Graham shares his passion for France and the Tour de France not only through his photography but also through a newly-released book, “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide,” a must-have for Tour enthusiasts whether you’re planning a trip to France or not.  It’s an insider’s guide to the Tour, beautifully presented with lots of How to information, four-color maps, photos by Graham and others, history and anecdotes and more.  

This book provides you with all that you need to happily navigate this exciting sporting event.  It even tells you how to meet the pros, something that I was fortunate enough to do—totally by accident—a number of years ago.  I ended up staying in the same hotel as the U.S. Postal Team one night and actually met Lance on the eve of his legendary Alpe d’Huez win in 2001.  That’s the kind of amazing encounter you can have at the Tour.  “Cycling is a very modest sport,” Graham says.  “The riders do meet and greet the public.  They’re not super stars that hide beyond a stadium.”

Graham has seen the Tour de France evolve from a parochial French event in the late seventies to the big international event that it is today.  His career got off the ground along with the success of cycling greats Greg Lemond, Sean Kelly and Phil Anderson.  Lance Armstrong has certainly given us all the ride of our lives at the Tour.  Isn’t it wonderful though to be debriefed by someone that his been so entrenched in the peloton for so many years?  Thanks Graham for marrying your two passions:  cycling and photography.  And I might add, for choosing to do it in France.

Always an Exciting Finish on the Champs-Elysées

Always an Exciting Finish on the Champs-Elysées

Tips for Attending the Tour de France from Graham Watson

-Target three to four consecutive days (stages) in the Alps or the Pyrenees and then spend about the same amount of time discovering some place else in France.

-Begin planning your trip once the Tour route has been announced mid-October.  Graham feels that the Internet is a great resource for booking hotels.  Know that many rooms are taken first by the Tour, so you have to get on it fast.

-Your best chance for meeting a cyclist is after the finish line when they often have to pedal out of the secured area.

Consult “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide” for many more!

For up-to-the-minute news about competitive cycling, check out VeloNews.

More Graham Glory

More Graham Glory

Thank you to Graham Watson and VeloPress for the use of the above images.

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