Paris ‘Palaces’ Controversy: Off with Their Heads!

Place de la Concorde and the Facade of Hôtel de Crillon

As I watched the rainbow-colored display of cyclists zoom around the place de la Concorde during last Sunday’s final stage of the Tour de France, I was nagged by only one discouraging thought. No, it had nothing to do with cycling or the fact that an American wasn’t going to make the podium. It was about that grand and imposing building bordering this famous place and how it’s no longer officially considered une palace de Paris. Yes, I’m talking about the renowned Hôtel de Crillon, the place where Queen Elizabeth stayed when she visited Paris many years ago. It’s, in fact, the glorious abode chosen by Lance Armstrong after several Tour finishes when he was at the peak of his reign. It’s sandwiched in between the American Consulate and the Residence of the American Ambassador in Paris. And if you can’t make it to Versailles, have tea here and you’ll have a taste of eighteenth-century French grandeur that will more than satisfy all your senses and sensibilities.

Le Jardin d’Hiver of the Crillon

La Galerie at the Four Seasons George V

The Suite Imperiale at Hôtel Ritz

Here’s what I wrote about Les Palaces in my book, The Riches of Paris:  A Shopping and Touring Guide:

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25 Jul 2011, 1:08pm
Colorado Denver Hotels & Lodging Restaurants:
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Comments Off on Summertime and the Livin’ Is Easy at the Denver Warwick Hotel

Summertime and the Livin’ Is Easy at the Denver Warwick Hotel

Red, Wet and Blue at Denver Warwick's Rooftop Oasis

With record-breaking temperatures hammering most of the country this summer, business and leisure travelers are delighting in hotels that offer something more than icey-cold, air conditioned guest rooms. Yeah, baby, it’s hot outside. But it’s also summer, the season intended for sitting outdoors to breath in fresh air and listen to the chirp, chirp, chirp of little birds.

Denver’s a great city for capturing this sort of bliss since even when temperatures soar well into the nineties, it’s dry enough that a quick dip in a pool or a leisurely moment on a shaded patio, can leave you feeling like you’re relaxing in a balmy seventy-five degrees. But the secret is to find those special havens where you can forget big-city life and lull yourself into some sultry summer fun. You’ll find just the place at the Denver Warwick Hotel in the heart of the mile-high city.

Randolph's at Dusk

Even if you’re not checking in to this superior quality establishment, you can enjoy a fine meal on the terrace at Randolph’s Restaurant and Bar, the hotel’s signature restaurant. Randolph’s presents a contemporary American cuisine served up with a Rocky mountain flair. Enjoy an Heirloom Ensalata Caprese, followed by a Rocky Mountain Red Ruby Trout Florentine and you’ll understand why this restaurant has become a favorite among Denver’s movers and shakers. (I’m sure they appreciate the relaxing atmosphere of Randolph’s terrace as well.)

You’ll want to be a guest at the Denver Warwick just to experience their rooftop swimming pool, a real rarity in any major metropolitan center. Not only is it a fun way to cool off, but it also offers some fine views of the Denver skyline.

After lolling poolside for a while, you can still pad off to your temperature-controlled guest room to flop on the bed. Fortunately there, too, the crisp, Rocky mountain air is close at hand because all of the rooms at the Denver Warwick boast their own private balcony.

Fresh and breezy. Here, summer never felt so good.

Denver Warwick Hotel, 1776 Grant Street, 303-861-2000. Randolph’s is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily year-round; brunch is also served on Sundays. Call 303-318-7272 to reserve. Check out their daily specials at their Web site or enquire by phone.

 

Three Men, Three Telluride Mountain Village Restaurants

Jake Linzinmeir from M's Restaurant

Jake Linzinmeir from M’s Restaurant

Every successful venture needs a driving force. This is particularly the case in the restaurant world where it takes a strong presence—whether in the kitchen or front of house—to shape a dining experience into a memorable moment that defines an establishment. Well in my humble opinion, there are a few noteworthy guys creating remarkable dining experiences in three restaurants in Telluride Mountain Village, a town populated by tony part-time and year-round residents and visited by discerning travelers from all over the world. These discriminating diners all know a thing or two about a red-letter night out on the town, so there’s little room for anything short of excellence in Telluride’s Mountain Village.

It came as big news this past spring—especially to locals—that Chef Jake Linzinmeir was taking over the helm at M’s Restaurant, the signature dining establishment of Hotel Madeline, formerly Capella. Jake, long known as the restaurateur extraordinaire of Telluride, having simultaneously owned and operated three best-loved restaurants in T-ride in recent years, seems to be the perfect fit for this swanky restaurant that demands that the cuisine live up to its high-stepping decor. Jake, widely applauded for his versatility and passion for quality, has the presence both in and out of the kitchen to provide a standout dining experience.

M's Smooth Interior

M’s Smooth Interior

One of Jakes' Innovative Culinary Creations

One of Jake’s Innovative Culinary Creations

If you catch a peek of Jake, you may recognize him from his frequent appearances on The Today Show. But don’t go thinking he’s all about “the show.” No, quite the contrary. Jake presents a Colorado Rocky Mountain Farm to Table Cuisine that features the many exceptional food products for which Colorado is becoming increasingly recognized. From Colorado beef dry-aged onsite to mushrooms picked within the outlying region, Chef Jake’s cuisine reflects the bounty of Colorado flawlessly prepared with the refined palate of the gastronome in mind.

Table with a View at Allred's

Table with a View at Allred’s

Mario Petillo from Allred’s

Allred’s, a landmark restaurant, only accessible by the gondola, perched high on the mountain between the towns of Telluride and Telluride Mountain Village, is also undergoing changes that are making it more of a perennial favorite rather than a special-occasion restaurant. With its unique location that furnishes some of the most exceptional views in Telluride, Allred’s deserves to be hopping every night of the week. It seems as though this is quickly becoming the case, especially at the bar where locals are flocking (always a good sign) for killer views accompanied by Happy Hour specials that last well into the night. Just call it Happy Night, featuring the best darn sunset of the Rockies and food and drink at reasonable prices.

Allred's, Spectacular Year-round

Allred’s, Spectacular Year-Round

This concept and so much more is the brainchild of Mario Petillo, the new General Manager of Allred’s, an elegant Italian that has worked in the hospitality industry in Europe and in the United States for decades. He’s been a familiar face on the restaurant scene in Telluride as well, a warm and welcoming gentleman that has the ease and grace to meet each diner’s requirements no matter how great or small. Whether you’re ordering Truffle Fries to accompany a glass of wine as you peruse Allred’s enticing menu or being served a Rocky Mountain Elk Short Loin as your main course, you can bet Mario has a say in how your food arrives at your table. Can’t wait to see the many other ways in which Mario will make this restaurant truly great.

Poolside Dining at The View

Poolside Dining at The View

If a more relaxed dining experience is calling, head to The View, the tavern-style restaurant housed within Mountain Lodge Telluride. As the name suggests, the views here are nothing short of fabulous. Truly one of the best-kept secrets of Telluride, The View thus far caters mostly to its lodge guests, however, those not staying at this handsome mountain resort are always more than welcome. In the summer, The View’s poolside dining offers a prized experience unique in T-ride; here you sit on (or lounge upon!) teak patio furniture, surrounded by tubs of blooming flowers while gazing at the San Sophia Range, some of the most awe-inspiring peaks of the Rockies. I suggest you order a juicy burger or a BLT salad topped with grilled chicken breast, an Arnie Palmer and slip into vacation mode whether you’re here for lunch or to spend a few days. By night, this handsome pool deck transforms into a different sort of magical place as fire pits are illuminated and margaritas become the drink of choice.

Inside The View, you’ll discover one of the most impressive “great rooms” of the Rockies, characterized by a stunning log interior, an immense stone fireplace, one of the longest bars of Telluride, a forty-five foot soaring ceiling, and expansive windows that furnish spectacular views from nearly every seat in the house. Wooden tables and chairs, cozy couches and two widescreen T.V.s complete the tavern-like feel embodied by The View.

Tommy Tompkins from The View

Tommy Tompkins from The View

But what would a tavern be without a warm, genuine welcome from the person in charge? At The View you’re likely to encounter that friendly greeting from Chef Tommy Tompkins, an affable guy that has proved as well versed in the front of the house as in the kitchen. “We try to provide good tavern food as an affordable option for people,” Tommy told me during a recent visit here. “Call it tavern fare with a high-end flare,” he added as he stepped away to say hello to some potential diners that had just entered his space.

Now that’s what I call “being on it,” I thought. In today’s world—more than ever before—you can’t take your restaurant diner for granted. You have to offer them added value each time they walk into your establishment. It takes someone special, someone who cares and has a keen understanding of the hospitality industry to make the difference.

It’s nice to know you can find those key people in Telluride Mountain Village.

Good Eats at The View

Good Eats at The View

Note that only The View (970-728-2413) is open for lunch and dinner; reservations are not required. It is, however, recommended to reserve at M’s Restaurant (970-369-0880) and at Allred’s (970-728-7474) for your dinner plans.

Know that Wednesday evenings are particularly happening in Telluride Mountain Village during the summer when the town hosts a Sunset Concert Series at 6 p.m. from July 6th through August 24th. All concerts are held in Sunset Plaza and are free to the public. Check out the lineup—you’ll discover there are some great acts.

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa: Spirit of the Southwest in the Rockies

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Can’t decide whether you want to vacation in the Southwest or the mountains? How about choosing a place of lodging where you enjoy the spirit and landscapes of both? Check out Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, a lovely southwestern-inspired adobe retreat set within the majestic San Juan Mountains, just an hour from Telluride, Colorado. Situated in the charming little town of Ridgway (featured in John Wayne films such as “True Grit”), I often recommend Chipeta as an excellent base for visiting the many interesting sites and towns that pepper southwestern Colorado and southern Utah.

If you travel further into the mountains from Ridgway, you can easily explore the historic old mining towns of Telluride, Ouray and Silverton. If you head toward Montrose, you can hit the Ute Indian Museum, a well-worth-the-stop attraction that showcases one of Colorado’s most complete collections of Ute ceremonial and traditional artifacts. Just on the other side of Montrose, plan to spend at least a half day at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a stunning and somewhat spooky site that provokes nearly as many oohs and aahs as the Grand Canyon. And within a two-hour drive you can find yourself amidst the striking red rock of Moab and other parts of southern Utah in addition to Arches National Park and Canyonlands.

Since there’s so much to visit in the area and most of the lodging at Chipeta includes condo-type units, you’ll likely want to check in here for a week. Plan at least a couple of relaxing rest days where you can stay put at this warm and welcoming lodge just to loll by the pool or enjoy a treatment in their spa.

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

Whether you’re staying at the lodge or just passing through, a stop at Chipeta’s Four Corners Cafe for dinner or drinks is a must. Here you’ll be enchanted by the striking vistas provided from the top-floor location of this casual restaurant and bar. Inside, the scene serves up heaps of southwestern charm within its desert rose-colored interior. As the sun sinks beneath the mountains, you’re bathed in pink light most evenings whether you’re seated inside or out.

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

Indeed this heartwarming lodge is aptly named. It’s called Chipeta, in honor of the lovely wife of Chief Ouray, head of the Ute Indians that once inhabited this land, a gentle woman that eventually became “queen” of both the whites and the Utes of the region. Embracing the rich diversity of this part of the country is what Chipeta, the lodge and the beloved Native American figure, are all about.

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, Ridgway, Colorado, 800-633-5868, www.chipeta.com

July is a wonderful time to visit Chipeta Sun Lodge and its Four Corners Cafe, especially this year with such a rockin’ Ridgway Concert Series lineup. Free concerts take place every Thursday throughout the month from 6p.m. ‘til dark in Ridgway’s Town Park. What a great way to kick off the weekend!

Gateway Canyons: One Big Discovery

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Oasis

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Sanctuary

I returned to Gateway Canyons recently and became even more enchanted by this magnificent site than when I first visited this resort two and a half years ago. Clearly they’d been busy at Gateway throughout this period, cultivating and refining the soothing oasis that has been created within the awe-inspiring red rocks of this unique southwestern Colorado location. Indeed, Gateway Canyons is well on its way to being a world-class resort. And certainly Gateway Canyons owner and founder of the Discovery Channel, John Hendricks, must feel proud about how his burgeoning resort has more than added to the beauty of this already spectacular setting.

Although just a two-hour (and quite scenic) drive from Telluride and Grand Junction, getting to Gateway can require a bit of an effort. But to me, this only adds to the appeal of this lovely resort. I can’t ever imagine it overrun by tourists and that certainly wasn’t the case when I stayed here a couple of weeks ago during peak time. This enabled me to while away peaceful hours by the Kiva Pool, sipping lemonade and eventually a prickly pear cactus daiquiri as I leafed through magazines. A quick dip in the pool’s cool, saline water allowed me to lounge in the desert heat until the surrounding rocks soaked up the sum of the day’s blistering sun. Ahhhh, that’s what I call relaxation.

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13 Jun 2011, 2:30pm
Art & Culture Colorado Denver Hotels & Lodging Music & Dance Restaurants:
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Comments Off on Fun this Summer and Year-Round at The Curtis

Fun this Summer and Year-Round at The Curtis

Curtis Philosophy and a Nod to the Beatles

Curtis Philosophy and a Nod to the Beatles

Who says summer fun is all about building castles in the sand, running through sprinklers or taking a dip in a secret water hole? Sure, those activities can provide many hours of giggles and entertainment, but when was the last time you checked into a hotel that really made you smile? And smile. And smile. And smile.

Kids on vacation and weary business travelers alike can’t help being endeared to The Curtis, a Doubletree Hotel, located in downtown Denver. A stay at The Curtis leaves an indelible mark on your funny bone–and every other sensitive part of your body–from the moment you spot their giant building blocks sign that say “all together now” to when you’re back home recalling your fun-filled visit at this unique property.

To me, some of the best hotels are ones that provide a memorable experience, a positive stay that you can’t easily create at home. The colorful and cheery Curtis does this and more. You can just sashay through a Laugh In-like set or pay closer attention to the Light Brite artwork and oversized wooden game board in their lobby. Here it’s also fun to check out the video art that displays favorite retro games and the Cartoon Network playing on the T.V. You can catch up on pop culture trivia in the library or drink a retro soda at the 5 & Dime and nibble on one of the hotel’s fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies on this level as well. If you’re indecisive about personal or professional doings, just ask to play rock, paper, scissors with the frond desk attendant. Head to your room and the real fun begins.

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Aspen/Snowmass Lodging and Dining Picks for this Summer

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You'd Think It's Saint-Tropez

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You’d Think It’s Saint-Tropez

I often feel that Vail has tons of hotels to choose from whereas Aspen’s selection seems more limited. That’s just my opinion. Aspen is smaller than Vail in any event. And in Aspen—especially at Snowmass—I think a lot of people like to rent big, luxury homes.

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

There’s still more than enough lodging options to choose from though, particularly since some terrific properties have opened up in Aspen and Snowmass within the past few years. The Viceroy wins hands down as my favorite lodging option in Snowmass. I reported on it a year ago in my story, Sleek and Sustainable:  Two Stellar Colorado Properties. I returned there at the end of this ski season and found it to be even more enjoyable second time around. Clearly, they’re off and running and word has spread that the Viceroy rates high as the most fashionable place to stay in Snowmass.

With all its swanky allure, the Viceroy also seems to be a most inviting property for families. This last time I lolled outside in one of their cabanas, sipping an après ski cocktail in ski boots and a down puffy with my hunny, while two families with kids romped about in the heated pool. Nearby a bunch of guys hung out at the hot tub, sipping beers and offering up celebratory toasts to whatever occasion brought them together. As the snow fell softly down around me, I couldn’t help but wonder how fantastic it would be to experience this pool scene beneath a blazing summer sun. The photos that accompany this story give us a clue.

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17 May 2011, 3:13pm
Colorado Fashion & Style Hotels & Lodging Telluride The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Oprah Visits Telluride Region for Ralph Lauren Interview

Oprah Visits Telluride Region for Ralph Lauren Interview

Sneffels:  The View from Ralph Lauren's Backyard

Sneffels: The View from Ralph Lauren's Backyard

I’m sure more than half the country—at least half the female population—is excited about Oprah’s interview with Ralph and Ricky Lauren that airs tomorrow. It certainly is a scoop to be visiting with this American icon of fashion and style at his southwestern Colorado ranch, his beloved enclave that’s remained extremely private until now. I wonder what we’ll see of it? I’m sure lots of plaid blankets and other Native American and Western-inspired motifs.

The Dragonfly Room at the Beaumont:  Where Oprah Slept!

The Dragonfly Room at the Beaumont: Where Oprah Slept!

I doubt, however, that our gorgeous scenery will be showcased much. We’re in the middle of off-season here, also known as mud season, a time when the views rank less spectacular than the rest of the year. Still, though, I can’t wait to see Ralph’s digs, an undoubtedly heartwarming house crafted in wood, tucked into the folds of a sprawling ranch. Situated just over a half-hour drive from Telluride, the Double RL Ranch encompasses majestic scenery the likes of which you see nowhere else in the world. Just think of the landscapes of westerns such as “True Grit” and “How the West Was Won.” (Indeed, John Wayne was a big fan of the area before Ralph ever came along.) An unassuming wooden Double RL sign post serves as the only indicator that Ralph’s place lies within this prime parcel of the West. During fair weather, one can note a grouping of teepees set up in the distance, playful white cones that conjure images of fantastic sleepovers or festive afternoon gatherings.

Oprah is no stranger to the area since she once owned a home in Telluride. It’s been said that she comes back from time to time, but one can’t know for sure since Telluride is extremely discreet and reports about celebs in the region are few. (Sorry if I’m breaking any unwritten rules here!) Oprah was in T-ride about a year and a half ago to conduct her Tom Cruise interview, but even that visit remained hush-hush among the locals.

It came as no surprise to me, however, to learn that during Oprah’s visit for her RL special, she stayed at the lovely Beaumont Hotel & Spa in Ouray, a charming mountain town just over a half hour from the Double RL ranch in the opposite direction of Telluride. I can imagine Oprah ensconced within the elegant confines of this historic hotel. I’d guess that she and her staff debated between a stay at the Beaumont or at our stunning New Sheridan Hotel here in Telluride. Both of these destination hotels exude the grandeur and refinement of the Victorian Era, the boom time for Colorado mining supply towns such as Ouray and Telluride. (Thankfully both of these historic treasures have being lovingly restored—to the tune of millions of dollars—within recent years. Today, they’re worth the trip to southwestern Colorado just to nestle into their sumptuous interiors.)

“Guests were nicely surprised to find Oprah having her make up done in the atrium,” Jennifer Wyrick, the new owner of the Beaumont, informed me regarding the Queen of Talk’s descent on this sleepy mountain town. Apparently Oprah remained pretty low-key during her stay at this boutique hotel; although she did take a hike down the main street, one of the few paved roads in this town, often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America. Boy, would I have loved to run into Oprah there.

There was little chance to broadcast her arrival though since the Beaumont was only contacted on that Monday for a reservation the weekend of May 6th. The hotel didn’t even find out until that Thursday that the rooms were reserved for Oprah and her staff. She checked in under a pseudonym, precautions that seem almost unwarranted this time of year when there are likely more critters ambling about in Ouray than people.

Oprah conducted the interview with Ralph Lauren and his family on that Saturday. Apparently only her staff stayed at the Beaumont Saturday night, so perhaps she enjoyed a rockin’ good time at the ranch. Or, maybe she just headed home.

She is after all wrapping up twenty-five years of informing, entertaining and enlightening America. She’s got to be in need of a good rest. I hope she’ll come back to the area to get it once the wildflowers are in bloom.

For more of my impressions of the Beaumont Hotel & Spa and Ouray, check out Our Ouray. To find out more about the New Sheridan Hotel & Chophouse and to listen to a podcast, go to New Sheridan Hotel:  Telluride’s Historic Gem. There you can also learn about some of the reasons that make Telluride so unique.

Thank you to Merrrick Chase, Neil Hastings and the Beaumont Hotel for the images featured in this post.

Last Saturday's View of the Double RL Ranch

Last Saturday's View of the Double RL Ranch

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