Colorful Colorado

Telluride's Valley Floor

Telluride’s Valley Floor

Wow.  Wow.  Wow.  What an extraordinary end of summer/fall it has been.  We’ve had nearly three weeks of breathtakingly-beautiful weather here in the Rockies and the forecast promises more sun and warmth for the upcoming week.  The colors have popped.  It looks like the leaves in the San Juan Mountains, the range located in the southwestern corner of Colorado, will be peaking this weekend.  Usually when that happens, a snowstorm blows in, but this year we’re to be blessed with more fine leaf-peeping days throughout a good part of October.  Scenery like this makes me wonder why people battle the crowds and traffic jams of New England for their annual fall foliage tour.  I recommend you sign up for the wide, open spaces and shimmering aspens of the Rockies next year!

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21 Sep 2010, 2:57pm
Hotels & Lodging Travel:
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Comments Off on The Allure of a Hotel, Like Beauty, Is Often in the Eye of the Beholder

The Allure of a Hotel, Like Beauty, Is Often in the Eye of the Beholder

I can remember being crushed a number of years ago about a less-than glowing review about one of my books on Amazon.com. Not only was it not especially flattering, but the person’s claims were flat out wrong. I was lobbying for another book contract at the time, so of course I was particularly sensitive to anything less-than complimentary about my work. Fortunately an editor told me not to think twice about Amazon.com reviews; apparently they mean nothing in the publishing world. At least that was the case at that time.

The Internet has indisputably allowed every Tom, Dick, Harry and Louise to be a critic. But how much of this is really viable? How much can you count on these two-penny thoughts for your own information? I don’t think you should rely on these reviews nearly as much as you might think.

As a travel writer, especially as one partnered with a hotel G.M., I’ve been hearing a lot about TripAdvisor.com for the past couple of years. The weight they carry in the hospitality industry has surprised me. Do I really want to plan my trip based on other people’s opinions, especially when I know nothing about these other people? What makes them an expert? I don’t even consider myself such an expert which is why I prefer to tell stories about places and experiences as opposed to giving them a full on rating.

My suspicions about the validity of reader-based Internet reviews were put to the test recently when I stayed in a leading lodge in one of our most high-end mountain resort towns. (I prefer not to name either the lodge or the destination since I try not to be in the business of dissing a place.) I enjoyed a perfectly nice stay in this establishment, however, I had to continually adjust my expectations throughout my stay. Here are some of the property’s shortcomings that bugged me:

-There was no daily housekeeping service. What a shock, especially upon returning to my room the first day and seeing that no one had come by to tidy up! This would have been far easier to accept had I been informed of this upon arrival (either by the reception or by a sign in the room). It also would have been nice to have received some sort of gesture such as “But if you need anything in particular, feel free to contact us.” Fortunately I’m a neat person. Yet I was happy to flag down a housekeeper for a few extra washcloths halfway into my stay.

-The concierge service advertised amounted to a table in the lobby piled high with brochures. Had there been just the right personal touch—even by the front desk person—I would have learned about a wonderful (and free!) concert that was taking place next door to the hotel the day after I arrived.

-It seemed like a real bonus that this establishment offered a complimentary breakfast on a daily basis. Too bad it was served in a dreary, windowless conference room.

-I learned the hard way—while pushing a luggage cart overloaded with bags and other cumbersome items including a guitar—that bell service was only provided in the winter. What, don’t we travel with tons of stuff in the summer as well? I didn’t even have a cooler.

It seems as though all the above might have been introduced as cost-cutting measures. You know what has happened to our peanuts and pillows on the airlines. Now it’s time to brace ourselves for the adjustments being made in the hotel world. Once again, all this is far more acceptable if we have a head’s up, perhaps in the form of a kind word from the front desk agent upon check in.

So after having experienced these glaring inconveniences, I decided to look this lodge up on TripAdvisor.com. I was amazed to learn that it was one of the top-rated hotels of this chic mountain town. Amateur reviewers had also weighed in generously and favorably on the breakfasts (which were apparently previously served in the hotel’s restaurant), concierge services and much more. I checked twice to make sure we were all talking about the same place. Indeed we were.

If you’re a TripAdvisor groupie, I’ve perhaps burst your bubble. Now here’s what I think you should do to facilitate your travel planning: round up your information from a variety of sources including social media sites, then call the establishment and ask some very pointed questions. Feel them out, size them up, gather your data and impressions, then go with your gut. Ask friends and family about their recommendations as well, especially if you share similar tastes. Consult blogs like mine but remember to always read between the lines.

Whether it’s Amazon.com, TripAdvisor.com or any other similar forum on the Internet or elsewhere, take everything with a grain of salt. I love the French expression that validates the idea that everyone has their own opinion. Indeed les goûts et les couleurs ne se disputent pas, or you don’t argue about taste and color.

Beauty (and often service and lots of other amenities) is indeed often in the eye of the beholder.

20 Sep 2010, 7:32pm
Art & Culture Colorado Four Corners Hotels & Lodging Podcasts The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region According to Fred Wildfang

Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region According to Fred Wildfang

The Marquee-Lined Hallway of The Rochester Hotel, The Hollywood of the Rockies

The Marquee-Lined Hallway of The Rochester Hotel, the Hollywood of the Rockies

Writer and historian Frederic B. Wildfang has made Durango and the outlying area his passion for nearly two decades.  Author of a handful of books about this colorful corner of southwestern Colorado, Fred clearly loves the San Juans, the most striking mountain range of the Rockies.  “It’s an interesting area historically and scenically,” Fred says in a recent Travel Fun interview.  And certainly its geological richness has left an indelible mark on the region from mining and ranching to tourism and western-movie making and much more.

Preserving Durango's Heritage:  Fred Wildfang and Family

Preserving Durango's Heritage: Fred Wildfang and Family

As for Durango, a dynamic town where Fred lives and works, Fred feels it’s a very friendly place filled with a great mix of the old and the new from weather-worn cowboys to fresh-faced outdoor enthusiasts from the nearby college.  He hikes everyday in the Weminuche Wilderness, the largest road-less area in Colorado, which lies just outside his door.  Fred also loves to use Durango as a base for visiting other great western destinations such as Creede, Colorado and Lake Powell, Utah.  In his most recent book, “Images of America:  The San Juan Skyway,” Fred features this unbelievably scenic 236-mile loop that wends through glacial valleys and over high ice-sculpted peaks, traversing the old mining towns of Silverton, Ouray, Telluride and Durango.  It’s one of the most renowned drives in America and one that you’ll want to take with Fred’s book in hand.

With such spectacular scenery and a wealth of remnants from the Old West, it’s no wonder so many western movies were filmed in the Four Corners area. Fred’s wife, Diane, and her son, Kirk, took over The Rochester Hotel, an historic hotel in Durango a number of years ago and renovated it to a heartwarming place to stay, one of my favorites in this fun-loving western town.  A must-see tribute to the history of western movie making in the region, the rooms and hallways of this cozy enclave showcase western movie memorabilia from Fred’s collection.  Each of the rooms is named after the movies filmed in and around the San Juans, beginning with “A Ticket to Tomahawk,” a western classic made in 1949 starring Marilyn Monroe. Fred talks about this movie and others in our interview.  You’ll discover that most of the westerns were filmed in the fifties and many boast a connection with the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railway, a national treasure that provides reason enough to travel to Durango.

Click on the play button below to hear my interview with Frederic Wildfang.

The Rochester Hotel, 721 East Second Avenue, 970-385-1920 or 800-664-1920, RochesterHotel.com

The Rochester Courtyard with an Old Rail Car

The Rochester Courtyard with an Old Rail Car

Book Picks

In addition to “Images of America:  The San Juan Skyway,” mentioned above, if you’re going to Durango, you’ll also enjoy “Images of America: Durango,” authored by Frederic B. Wildfang as well. Go to ArcadiaPublishing.com to find out about these books and more.

Great Deals for Public Radio: Summer 2010

Capella's Take on Mountain Elegance

Capella's Mountain Elegance

There are lots of travel deals out there these days but you won’t find any as enticing as the ones I’m presenting to you below.  And best of all, by making a pledge for them you’re supporting KOTO community radio in Telluride, one of the few entirely community-sponsored radio stations in the country.  More and more people tune in on the Internet as well during T-ride’s famed Bluegrass Festival (when KOTO broadcasts live) or just any ‘ole day of the year.  It’s a great way to get the flavor of a happening mountain town along with some fine music and talk.

If you don’t know about my Travel Fun radio show, please tune in live one of these Tuesdays.  Or you may listen to some of my past interviews that I’ve posted as podcasts.

Now for the good stuff.  Here’s what you can snatch up in exchange for a pledge, just e-mail me through my Contacts Page to lock in your travel premium.  (You can also go there to sign up for my RSS feed and/or to receive bi-monthly Travel Fun announcements.  Be sure to provide all your contact information including phone and address (e-mail as well as snail mail, please) and your desired prize.  Know that I’m accepting pledges on a first come, first serve basis, so act fast!

TELLURIDE TEMPTATIONS

First-Rate Dinner and Lodging at Capella

$150. pledge: a two-night stay in a standard room (pictured above—wow!) in this stunning hotel, valued between $200. and $500.

$75.  pledge: dinner for two at Onyx, Capella’s signature restaurant, valued at $100. not including tax and gratuity.

Feeling sophisticated?  It sounds like you need to spend some time at Capella, the newest bright star of Telluride’s hospitality offerings.

The Himmel Spa at The Klammer

The Himmel Spa Relaxation Room at The Klammer

Gorgeous Health and Beauty Treatments from the Fairmont Heritage Place, Franz Klammer Lodge

$75. pledge: One-hour facial, valued at $130.

$75. pledge: One-hour massage, valued at $120.  Note that both include access to the pool, fitness center and spa facilities for the day.  How delightful, how de-lovely! Read what I have to say about The Himmel Spa at The Klammer in my story, Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas.

OUTSIDE OF TELLURIDE

Almost Like Home:  Box Canyon Lodge

Almost Like Home: Box Canyon Lodge

Great Getaway to America’s Little Switzerland

$50. pledge: Enjoy an overnight, valued at $100., at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, in Ouray.  Read my Ouray story as a primer.

6 Aug 2010, 4:16pm
Hotels & Lodging Spas The Rockies:
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Comments Off on A Pristine Pool Experience in Avon/Beaver Creek

A Pristine Pool Experience in Avon/Beaver Creek

The Westin Riverfront Pool

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa Pool

Perfect pool days can be few and far between here in the Rockies since July and August bring monsoonal rains and impressive thunder and lightening storms that can force the heartiest souls indoors. Thankfully this happens mostly in the afternoon and not typically every day. (The past couple of weeks in southwestern Colorado, however, have been particularly dreary.)

So when you plan a day to lounge poolside (and who doesn’t love to do that in the summer?), I suggest you choose a most promising place. This means a drop-dead gorgeous pool with a grand pool deck, great scenery, ultra comfy lounge chairs, expansive umbrellas for when the sun becomes too strong (or even to hide beneath in case of a passing shower) and excellent poolside food and drinks. Friendly service from the pool and wait staff goes a long way, too. Relaxation is your number one priority, so you don’t want to be left hanging looking for more ice for your beverage or a rubbery plastic noodle upon which to float. You’ll find all this and more at The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain.

I discovered this repository of recreation last spring and yearned to come back and enjoy it with my hunny on a sultry summer’s day. That’s exactly what we did on a picture-perfect day a few weeks ago. Together we knocked out our laps in this property’s glorious, saline-filled pool and then enjoyed a delicious lunch served poolside from Avondale, the hotel’s signature restaurant. I was bold enough to order one of their special cocktails, a fresh-squeezed lemonade made with house-infused berry Vodka while my boyfriend savored a perfectly chilled Margarita. Needless-to-say the rest of the afternoon passed seamlessly. We were glad to have gotten our workout in early on.

Perhaps the only regret we shared was that it was too hot to venture into one of the resort’s infinity hot tubs (although some people were clearly enjoying these stunning lobster pots). I guess those amenities in and of themselves give you good reason to come here on a cloudy day.

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at Beaver Creek offers day pool passes to non-hotel guests at a cost of $40 per day per person.  This entitles you to one group fitness class at The Riverfront Club. You may procure a week-long pass for $125. which entitles you to attend three fitness classes.  Or you may indulge in a spa treatment and benefit from the use of the pool and gym facilities gratis.

Read more about The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at Sleek and Sustainable:  Two Stellar Colorado Properties.

27 Jul 2010, 4:46pm
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Rockies:
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Comments Off on The Penrose Room: Colorado’s Pièce de Résistance

The Penrose Room: Colorado’s Pièce de Résistance

Penrose Sculpture

Penrose Sculpture

To me, any connection between France and Colorado captures my attention tenfold. I’m passionate about both and you can tell from reading this blog that the gallic land and the Rocky Mountain state often serve as points of reference in my stories. I love the contrasts in the striking natural and manmade beauty between the two and I especially delight in showing that rich cultural and gastronomic offerings can be enjoyed both in the Old World and in the rugged corners of the American West. When the two come together, it’s truly magnifique!

The Broadmoor

The Broadmoor

A fine example of a perfect marriage of French savoir faire and American tradition may currently be experienced at the Penrose Room, the premiere restaurant of The Broadmoor, located in Colorado Springs, Colorado. For over ninety years this Grande Dame of the Rockies has distinguished itself as one of the finest resorts in the world and just this past year its top restaurant achieved five-star, five-diamond status. The Penrose Room now enjoys the distinction of the only Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobile Travel Guide) five-star restaurant in Colorado. Now that’s what I call putting Colorado on the map, at least in terms of food and wine. Only about twenty restaurants claim this standing in the U.S. including Charlie Trotter’s, Le Bernardin and The Inn at Little Washington, to name a few.

It should come as no surprise that the man behind this success is French, another great talent from across the pond that has learned how to respond to an increasingly discerning American diner and the demands that go with a big job at a big resort. Zee man is Bertrand Bouquin, Executive Chef of Penrose Room as well as Summit, another one of The Broadmoor’s fine restaurants.

Chef Bertrand Bouquin at Home in Colorado

Chef Bertrand Bouquin at Home in Colorado

I first met Bertrand a few years ago and was instantly impressed with his enthusiasm and dynamisme, an energy that he clearly brings to the dining experience at the Penrose Room where tradition and innovation reign supreme. Tableside service for the preparation of such classics as Caesar salad, Dover sole, cherries jubilee and other beloved dishes is still carried out with great elegance and skill. But you’ll also delight in an inventive cuisine that often showcases fine regional products accented with favorite French flavors. I was thrilled, for example, with my Tenderloin of Colorado Lamb, a rouleaux of succulent meat enhanced with wonderful saveurs of Provence. My hunny Steve, with whom I was lucky enough to share such a memorable feast, regaled in a Fresh Water Striped Bass with Morels.

From amuse bouche to the vanilla tuile that accompanied our dessert, we were utterly enchanted by our evening here. For me, experiencing a restaurant of this caliber is always part gastronomic adventure, part Broadway show. Yes, the entertainment value of such a memorable meal counts a lot, even—or should I say, especially—when the service is totally unobtrusive as is the case at the Penrose Room. I remember every detail from the little pillow propped up behind my back from the moment I sat down to the china being expeditiously removed from the heavy, gold damask tablecloth after the completion of each course. Everyone seemed to be in high spirits as I looked around the room. Truly ebullient. And how could you not? A jazz trio and vocalist kept the mood light and bubbly, just enough so that you couldn’t possibly take this temple of haute cuisine too seriously.

Steve and I held off until that delightful pause between main course and dessert before approaching the large dance floor that clearly has brought so much joy to peoples’ lives in this midnight blue dining room over the years. Once unleashed, however, we were thrilled to swing and sway beneath the immense crystal chandelier to the tunes of Norah Jones, Eric Clapton and Van Morrison before regaining our place at our table. Truly a scene from a movie, I thought. And it wasn’t an old, fuddy-duddy one either. From the pictures of the Penrose Room I saw ahead of time, I was fearful of the ambiance being a little too stiff and formal for our taste. Yet that was truly not the case.

Penrose Panache

Perfectly Penrose

I may be biased but I couldn’t help thinking that much of the attraction of this renowned restaurant could be attributed to a distinctive French flair. A certain panache, perhaps that same special something that pushed the Penrose Room into such an elite five-star group. I thought this as I witnessed the sun setting over the magnificent peaks of the Rocky Mountains way out beyond the dramatic decor of this grand dining room. Yes, of course, there’s an undeniable Colorado flavor as well.

Go to Wining and Dining in the Rockies to read more about Chef Bertrand Bouquin.

Our Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Named for the chief of the Ute Indians, the little town of Ouray (pronounced your-ay) has become one of my favorite getaway destinations in the Rocky Mountains.  One might argue that this is because it’s only an hour’s drive from Telluride, but its appeal extends far beyond its proximity to my place of residence.  And I’ve hardly partaken in the two activities most associated with Ouray:  ice climbing and jeeping.

I’m drawn to Ouray for its striking natural beauty and the delightful mix of Rocky mountain charm and elegance that most of the town’s establishments exude.  It’s not unheard of to spot a couple of five-pointed bucks crossing Main Street in the middle of the afternoon.  Here the mountains plummet into this National Historic District claiming the unpaved backstreets as its foothills, the main street as its valley floor.  The views are so striking in this boxed canyon that Ouray is often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America, a moniker that you can hardly dispute as you gaze up to the jagged peaks that almost entirely encircle this old mining town where tourism is now king.

My boyfriend, Steve, and I have made it a tradition of sorts to spend a short weekend here at the onset of summer, two years in a row that we’ve both been beguiled by the authentic character of this old mountain town.  No fast foods and not a single stoplight either.  Instead Ouray claims bragging rights to a quaint collection of B & Bs and down-home lodges, a jumble of fun shops and restaurants, world-renowned hot springs and a gorgeous hotel that is itself worth the trip.

The Beautiful Beaumont

The Bodacious Beaumont

O.K., by now you know I love luxury hotels.  Well, I’ve found my bliss at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel & Spa.  Even if you just stop by for a drink on the patio, this hotel is a must in Ouray, a must-see in the Rockies.  The Beaumont is a destination hotel that’s worth going out of your way to experience.  And yes it is likely you’ll have to negotiate your schedule and maybe even some scary mountain roads to find your way to this remote part of Colorado.  But do go.  Once here you’ll experience the full glory of the golden days of mining when grand hotels were erected in remote little towns in order to properly receive the high rolling businessmen of the day.  Built in 1886 during Ouray’s heyday, the Beaumont reopened in 2003 after having undergone a five million-dollar renovation lovingly carried out by Dan and Mary King.  The hotel emerged from a near state of ruin as every detail—from its grand staircase to its flourish of ornate wallpapers—was restored, or exactly replicated, to its original Victorian splendor.  In the hotel’s Tundra Restaurant you’ll be greatly impressed by the beauty of the dining room as well as the food and wine offerings.  (The owner, Dan King, was a former wine merchant.)  Dining in this dimly lighted, dark wood paneled space beneath high ceilings makes me feel as though I’ve landed in an old Scottish castle.

Yes, I do love the Old World and also anything Old World-ish in America as long as its exceedingly well done.  Bulow’s Bistro, also in the Beaumont, is one such example.  Its tiled floor, wrought iron accents, café tables and blackboard writings make me feel as though I’ve just landed in a French bistrot.  Here, too, you can expect a remarkable choice of wines.  It’s so reassuring to know that my French fix is only an hour away.

Outdoor activities reign supreme in Ouray but in truth, I’ve always just spent my time strolling around town, poking into shops and checking out a few of the natural spectacular attractions such as waterfalls, the hot springs, and the peaks, known as The Amphitheater, that encircle town.

The Utes were drawn to healing sources for both therapeutic and spiritual reasons, so it comes as no surprise that these springs were greatly revered by this tribe of native Americans.  Descendants of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Utes, still frequent the original source where these springs flow from the base of the mountain into the Vapor Cave of The Wiesbaden, a lodge where a bathhouse once operated as early as 1879.  Here Steve and I most like to loll in the Lorelei, a private outdoor soaking pool that assures you relaxation, rejuvenation and a near-sacred moment shared with your sweetie in steamy waters.  Best to reserve in advance.

 

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

From here, I recommend going back to your room, especially if it’s one of the spacious condo-types we once experienced at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs.  Or just flop into a seat at the Main Street Theater to watch the multi-media presentation San Juan Odyssey.  (O.K., maybe you could head out for a libation or a bite to eat as well.)  Narrated by C.W. McCall (of “Convoy” fame) with music by Aaron Copeland and The London Symphony Orchestra, this panoramic presentation takes you into the rugged peaks, the gentle valleys and the high mountain passes of the San Juan Mountains.  You traverse some of the most spectacular terrain of the United States during this thirty-five minute show, embracing nature in all its gentleness and cruelty—from blooming wildflowers to charging avalanches—that so mark this part of the Rockies.

“If it’s there, you’ve got to climb it,” seems to be the motto of visitors and residents alike of this uncompromising land for the past century and a half.  Whether you’re hiking, on a horse or jeeping, people tackle these awe-inspiring peaks with fierce determination and drive.  I was grateful that the San Juan Odyssey transported me to some of the most reputed sites of the region:  Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene and Engineer Pass, Mt. Abrams, all places I hope to venture to some day in person.  But in the meantime, I’m perfectly content to experience them from the comfort of my theater seat after a relaxing soak.

Not surprisingly, the presentation—and perhaps the whole town—had the opposite effect on Steve.  Our usual one-hour drive home turned into a four-hour expedition as Steve pulled off onto Last Dollar Road at the top of Dallas Divide.  We rumbled past the broken down farm which appears in the opening scene of “True Grit” and forged forward onto the less-trammeled part of this old dirt road.  Jostled and shaken in his beat-up Jeep, Steve and I felt like two rancheros out on the trail as “San Antonio Rose” blared from the CD player.  I made sure Steve kept his eyes on the road but we both still marveled at magnificent mountain views from elevations as high as 10,000 feet.

We stopped just long enough to take pictures before approaching our descent into another heavenly mountain town, our beautiful Telluride.  Now let’s be clear about the renowned back roads—most old mining roads—of the San Juans.  We weren’t on Black Bear Road, the infamous course which begins at the summit of Red Mountain (just outside Ouray), passes by Bridal Veil Falls (the highest waterfall in Colorado), ending just beyond in Telluride.  Thank goodness it wasn’t this one-way road where more than one traveler has met his demise.  It was plenty challenging for me, however, just enough to give me a taste of the amazing high country exploration available in this part of the Rockies.

We vowed to go back and do more four wheeling along the area’s famous alpine loop in the fall.  Fortunately I feel confident that such an excursion will include stops at my favorite watering holes and rest stops in Ouray, mostly because Steve’s grown attached to them as well.  It’s nice to have more than one magical mountain town to call your own.

Beaumont Hotel & Spa, 505 Main Street, 888-447-3255 and 970-325-7000, 970-325-7050 (Bulow’s Bistro), 970-325-7040 (Tundra Restaurant), BeaumontHotel.com

The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings, Corner of 6th Avenue & 5th Street, 970-325-4347, WiesbadenHotSprings.com

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, 45 Third Avenue, 800-327-5080 or 970-325-4981, BoxCanyonOuray.com

San Juan Odyssey, 630 Main Street, 970-325-4940; best to call for show times.

Other Ouray Favorites

Ouray Hot Springs Pool, 970-325-7073

Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee, 520 Main Street, 970-325-7285, MousesChocolates.com

Rockin P Ranch, 512 Main Street, 970-325-0434, RockinPRanch.com

Buckskin Booksellers, 505 Main Street, 970-325-4044, BuckskinBooksellers.com; open 365 days a year!

Best to check opening days and hours with most Ouray establishments since business is very seasonal.

 

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

 

Oh Château Life!

A Perfect French Summer Scene:  Colza Fields Blanketing the Château de la Motte d'Usseau Landscape

A Perfect French Summer Scene: Colza Fields Blanketing the Château de la Motte d'Usseau Landscape

If you’ve caught any coverage of the Tour de France, you’ve seen some glorious shots of the French countryside dotted with fairy tale-looking castles and elegant manor houses.  Families still live in most of these impressive dwellings, many of whom have lived there for centuries.  And even better, some of these families of long lineage open up their stately residences to visitors on a nightly or even weekly basis. (Yes, you can easily rent your own château in France for your destination wedding, family reunion or other exciting event.)

Château du Fraisse Near Limoges

Château du Fraisse, A Grand Property Near Limoges

But how do you go about connecting with these people, some of whom may be just familiarizing themselves with the Internet?  Enter Diane Ohanian, French château expert par excellence.  Diane created au Château some ten years ago, a company and e-newsletter that dials Americans into château life in France.  In my Travel Fun interview with Diane (and through her au Château Web site and newsletter), I’ve found her to be an incredible resource on French châteaux and on French life in general.  As an ardent Francophile for more than two decades, Diane has made it her mission to suss out some of the most glorious and welcoming abodes in the gallic land.  Indeed au Château is a great English-language resource for travelers looking to stay in historic places.

Room with a View at Château Sallandrouze and Many Other Châteaux

Room with a View at Château Sallandrouze and Many Other Châteaux

Click on the play button below to hear what Diane has to say about château life in France, French hosts and what she appreciates most about life in France.  Hint:  it has nothing to do with traffic jams and fast food.

Three châteaux have been featured in the above images including Château de la Motte d’Usseau, Château du Fraisse and Château Sallandrouze.  (For Château Sallandrouze, please check with Diane directly at inquiry@au-chateau.com for this property’s availability.)  Note that au Château boasts nearly eighty members on their site, so you have a variety of experiences to chose from in every corner of France.

Diane (on the left) with One of Her Hosts

Diane (on the left) with One of Her Hosts

Diane on the French as Hosts

“They’re excellent hosts, warm and friendly.  The nobility is nice, too.  Not at all condescending.  I hope it’s not a disappointment when they (travelers) find out that they (the noble families) are like everyone else.”

Book Pick

“The Paris Neighborhood Cookbook:  Danyel Couet’s Guide to the City’s Ethnic Cuisines,” by Danyel Couet and David Loftus

Listen to what Diane has to say about this book in the above interview.

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