Strater Hotel: the Grande Dame of Durango, Colorado

Strater Hotel in Durango Backdropped by a Quintessential Colorado Blue Sky

If you’ve read some of my posts on my blog and/or if you’re familiar with my books on France, you likely know by now that I love hotels. Historic hotels in particular move me. I’m a big fan of experiencing these bastions of history and tradition during one’s travels, whether it’s to pop in for a drink or to stay a few nights. No matter how you choose to discover these landmark properties, a visit to them allows you to soak up the spirit of the place for either a brief moment or a more luxurious stay. The world is peppered with such places of lodging, steeped in history, that folks have been enjoying in many cases for more than a century. I encourage my readers to seek them out at every turn because it’s often within their splendiferous interiors that we gain the true essence of the place we’re visiting; it’s here we’re able to peer into the past while embracing the present.

In most cases, these fine establishments serve as the cornerstones of the cities and towns we love to visit. Many were built during the golden era of that destination in an effort to express to the world all that the town had achieved, all that the community was becoming. Erecting a notable place of lodging for business and leisure travelers alike was a sure-bet way of putting a destination on the map in addition to providing the right conditions for welcoming visitors in a more dignified and glorious manner.

Nearly every town and city in Colorado boasts a fine hotel, most of which were built during the boomtown era of the mining days toward the latter part of the nineteenth century. It was one of the most significant ways of saying “we’ve arrived.” Finally an old cow town could receive its potential investors and other movers and shakers of the day in a proper manner. The Strater Hotel in Durango, Colorado stands out as one of the finest examples of this necessity to build a handsome place of lodging in emerging towns throughout the West.

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BBQ, Blues and Beauty at Gateway Canyons

The Perfect Setting: Gateway’s Outdoor Amphitheater

There’s nothing like great music in a spectacular place.

That’s exactly what we had this past weekend in Telluride during the thirty-fifth annual Telluride Jazz Celebration, a three-day celebration that puts our whole town in a silky mood every year during the first weekend of August. And after this year’s love fest, this eclectic event appears to be stronger than ever.

It’s even more enticing to have good food added to great music and ambiance. You can count on a trifecta of those ingredients to a good time at the third annual BBQ Blues event on Saturday, September 3 at Gateway Canyons Resort. This year’s lineup features Denver-based diva Hazel Miller and her band. Known for infusing her songs with a primal dose of genuine soul, whether she’s singing the blues, jazz, pop or gospel, Ms. Miller has been called a “force of nature.” Miller has opened for Mel Tormé, James Brown, the Temptations, Earl Klugh, Bob James and many more. I’ve seen her in Telluride and I can tell you she puts on a show bursting with heart and soul.

Other notable blues artists will also be appearing at this special Labor Day weekend event that kicks off at noon at one of the most stunning resorts of the West. (Read my story  Gateway Canyons: One Big Discovery) A craft and food fair will also be set up on the resort’s resplendent grounds and as the name suggests, there will be heaps of delicious BBQ for all to enjoy.

Though lodging at Gateway Canyons is sold out, camping is still available in the nearby meadows for festival attendees. Or if you’re lucky enough to be in and around western Colorado at that time, you can just plan an excursion to this fun event that promises to be well worth the trip. Barbecue and blues amidst the red rocks—summer fun doesn’t get much more sultry than that!

Click to see the full program of activities for Gateway’s BBQ Blues Festival and to reserve. You may also call 970-931-2458 for more information.

In Praise of Rushing Water

View from Creek Side Bed & Breakfast in Cedaredge, Colorado

We’ve been in the throes of monsoon season throughout most of Colorado, that cool, wet time of year that typically rolls in with the fourth of July and leaves by Labor Day. It doesn’t rain every day, but you can count on a decent soaking at some point—usually in the afternoon—just in time to relieve us from the hot, Colorado sun. These bountiful rains have made our rivers and streams swell and our mountains and valleys verdant and lush. I feel for the people plagued with sweltering temperatures and drought in other parts of our country. Indeed, many Texans have been seeking relief here in our delicious alpine climate.

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Snowmass Slated for Another Culinary Crescendo

Serving Up a Summertime Salad in Snowmass

I love our mountain towns, especially in the summer when the village squares open themselves to all sorts of food and wine and art and music festivals. I kicked off the summer early June at the Snowmass Chili Pepper & Brew Fest and was dazzled by the number of foodies and chili aficionados I met at that event. Boy, there’s some serious competition going on among those cookoff chefs, many of whom travel the country to serve up their prized dishes to fans like me. I’ll be reporting on that in more detail next spring in time for next year’s Chili Fest.

Snowmass is going off again this weekend with even more delectable eats and libations and most likely a more high-stepping crowd (especially now that all the second homeowners are in residence). The village of Aspen’s neighboring town provides an ideal setting for the Snowmass Culinary & Arts Festival that’s taking place Friday, July 22 through Saturday, July 23. Be sure to arrive by Thursday night in order to take in the free evening concert on Fanny Hill, a perfect outdoor venue created by the slope of the mountain on one of Snowmass’s renowned cruiser runs. Otis Taylor, an American blues musician legend, is playing at this year’s concert, so you’ll not want to miss it.

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Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa: Spirit of the Southwest in the Rockies

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Can’t decide whether you want to vacation in the Southwest or the mountains? How about choosing a place of lodging where you enjoy the spirit and landscapes of both? Check out Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, a lovely southwestern-inspired adobe retreat set within the majestic San Juan Mountains, just an hour from Telluride, Colorado. Situated in the charming little town of Ridgway (featured in John Wayne films such as “True Grit”), I often recommend Chipeta as an excellent base for visiting the many interesting sites and towns that pepper southwestern Colorado and southern Utah.

If you travel further into the mountains from Ridgway, you can easily explore the historic old mining towns of Telluride, Ouray and Silverton. If you head toward Montrose, you can hit the Ute Indian Museum, a well-worth-the-stop attraction that showcases one of Colorado’s most complete collections of Ute ceremonial and traditional artifacts. Just on the other side of Montrose, plan to spend at least a half day at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a stunning and somewhat spooky site that provokes nearly as many oohs and aahs as the Grand Canyon. And within a two-hour drive you can find yourself amidst the striking red rock of Moab and other parts of southern Utah in addition to Arches National Park and Canyonlands.

Since there’s so much to visit in the area and most of the lodging at Chipeta includes condo-type units, you’ll likely want to check in here for a week. Plan at least a couple of relaxing rest days where you can stay put at this warm and welcoming lodge just to loll by the pool or enjoy a treatment in their spa.

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

Whether you’re staying at the lodge or just passing through, a stop at Chipeta’s Four Corners Cafe for dinner or drinks is a must. Here you’ll be enchanted by the striking vistas provided from the top-floor location of this casual restaurant and bar. Inside, the scene serves up heaps of southwestern charm within its desert rose-colored interior. As the sun sinks beneath the mountains, you’re bathed in pink light most evenings whether you’re seated inside or out.

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

Indeed this heartwarming lodge is aptly named. It’s called Chipeta, in honor of the lovely wife of Chief Ouray, head of the Ute Indians that once inhabited this land, a gentle woman that eventually became “queen” of both the whites and the Utes of the region. Embracing the rich diversity of this part of the country is what Chipeta, the lodge and the beloved Native American figure, are all about.

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, Ridgway, Colorado, 800-633-5868, www.chipeta.com

July is a wonderful time to visit Chipeta Sun Lodge and its Four Corners Cafe, especially this year with such a rockin’ Ridgway Concert Series lineup. Free concerts take place every Thursday throughout the month from 6p.m. ‘til dark in Ridgway’s Town Park. What a great way to kick off the weekend!

Gateway Canyons: One Big Discovery

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Oasis

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Sanctuary

I returned to Gateway Canyons recently and became even more enchanted by this magnificent site than when I first visited this resort two and a half years ago. Clearly they’d been busy at Gateway throughout this period, cultivating and refining the soothing oasis that has been created within the awe-inspiring red rocks of this unique southwestern Colorado location. Indeed, Gateway Canyons is well on its way to being a world-class resort. And certainly Gateway Canyons owner and founder of the Discovery Channel, John Hendricks, must feel proud about how his burgeoning resort has more than added to the beauty of this already spectacular setting.

Although just a two-hour (and quite scenic) drive from Telluride and Grand Junction, getting to Gateway can require a bit of an effort. But to me, this only adds to the appeal of this lovely resort. I can’t ever imagine it overrun by tourists and that certainly wasn’t the case when I stayed here a couple of weeks ago during peak time. This enabled me to while away peaceful hours by the Kiva Pool, sipping lemonade and eventually a prickly pear cactus daiquiri as I leafed through magazines. A quick dip in the pool’s cool, saline water allowed me to lounge in the desert heat until the surrounding rocks soaked up the sum of the day’s blistering sun. Ahhhh, that’s what I call relaxation.

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Aspen/Snowmass Lodging and Dining Picks for this Summer

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You'd Think It's Saint-Tropez

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You’d Think It’s Saint-Tropez

I often feel that Vail has tons of hotels to choose from whereas Aspen’s selection seems more limited. That’s just my opinion. Aspen is smaller than Vail in any event. And in Aspen—especially at Snowmass—I think a lot of people like to rent big, luxury homes.

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

There’s still more than enough lodging options to choose from though, particularly since some terrific properties have opened up in Aspen and Snowmass within the past few years. The Viceroy wins hands down as my favorite lodging option in Snowmass. I reported on it a year ago in my story, Sleek and Sustainable:  Two Stellar Colorado Properties. I returned there at the end of this ski season and found it to be even more enjoyable second time around. Clearly, they’re off and running and word has spread that the Viceroy rates high as the most fashionable place to stay in Snowmass.

With all its swanky allure, the Viceroy also seems to be a most inviting property for families. This last time I lolled outside in one of their cabanas, sipping an après ski cocktail in ski boots and a down puffy with my hunny, while two families with kids romped about in the heated pool. Nearby a bunch of guys hung out at the hot tub, sipping beers and offering up celebratory toasts to whatever occasion brought them together. As the snow fell softly down around me, I couldn’t help but wonder how fantastic it would be to experience this pool scene beneath a blazing summer sun. The photos that accompany this story give us a clue.

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17 May 2011, 3:13pm
Colorado Fashion & Style Hotels & Lodging Telluride The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Oprah Visits Telluride Region for Ralph Lauren Interview

Oprah Visits Telluride Region for Ralph Lauren Interview

Sneffels:  The View from Ralph Lauren's Backyard

Sneffels: The View from Ralph Lauren's Backyard

I’m sure more than half the country—at least half the female population—is excited about Oprah’s interview with Ralph and Ricky Lauren that airs tomorrow. It certainly is a scoop to be visiting with this American icon of fashion and style at his southwestern Colorado ranch, his beloved enclave that’s remained extremely private until now. I wonder what we’ll see of it? I’m sure lots of plaid blankets and other Native American and Western-inspired motifs.

The Dragonfly Room at the Beaumont:  Where Oprah Slept!

The Dragonfly Room at the Beaumont: Where Oprah Slept!

I doubt, however, that our gorgeous scenery will be showcased much. We’re in the middle of off-season here, also known as mud season, a time when the views rank less spectacular than the rest of the year. Still, though, I can’t wait to see Ralph’s digs, an undoubtedly heartwarming house crafted in wood, tucked into the folds of a sprawling ranch. Situated just over a half-hour drive from Telluride, the Double RL Ranch encompasses majestic scenery the likes of which you see nowhere else in the world. Just think of the landscapes of westerns such as “True Grit” and “How the West Was Won.” (Indeed, John Wayne was a big fan of the area before Ralph ever came along.) An unassuming wooden Double RL sign post serves as the only indicator that Ralph’s place lies within this prime parcel of the West. During fair weather, one can note a grouping of teepees set up in the distance, playful white cones that conjure images of fantastic sleepovers or festive afternoon gatherings.

Oprah is no stranger to the area since she once owned a home in Telluride. It’s been said that she comes back from time to time, but one can’t know for sure since Telluride is extremely discreet and reports about celebs in the region are few. (Sorry if I’m breaking any unwritten rules here!) Oprah was in T-ride about a year and a half ago to conduct her Tom Cruise interview, but even that visit remained hush-hush among the locals.

It came as no surprise to me, however, to learn that during Oprah’s visit for her RL special, she stayed at the lovely Beaumont Hotel & Spa in Ouray, a charming mountain town just over a half hour from the Double RL ranch in the opposite direction of Telluride. I can imagine Oprah ensconced within the elegant confines of this historic hotel. I’d guess that she and her staff debated between a stay at the Beaumont or at our stunning New Sheridan Hotel here in Telluride. Both of these destination hotels exude the grandeur and refinement of the Victorian Era, the boom time for Colorado mining supply towns such as Ouray and Telluride. (Thankfully both of these historic treasures have being lovingly restored—to the tune of millions of dollars—within recent years. Today, they’re worth the trip to southwestern Colorado just to nestle into their sumptuous interiors.)

“Guests were nicely surprised to find Oprah having her make up done in the atrium,” Jennifer Wyrick, the new owner of the Beaumont, informed me regarding the Queen of Talk’s descent on this sleepy mountain town. Apparently Oprah remained pretty low-key during her stay at this boutique hotel; although she did take a hike down the main street, one of the few paved roads in this town, often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America. Boy, would I have loved to run into Oprah there.

There was little chance to broadcast her arrival though since the Beaumont was only contacted on that Monday for a reservation the weekend of May 6th. The hotel didn’t even find out until that Thursday that the rooms were reserved for Oprah and her staff. She checked in under a pseudonym, precautions that seem almost unwarranted this time of year when there are likely more critters ambling about in Ouray than people.

Oprah conducted the interview with Ralph Lauren and his family on that Saturday. Apparently only her staff stayed at the Beaumont Saturday night, so perhaps she enjoyed a rockin’ good time at the ranch. Or, maybe she just headed home.

She is after all wrapping up twenty-five years of informing, entertaining and enlightening America. She’s got to be in need of a good rest. I hope she’ll come back to the area to get it once the wildflowers are in bloom.

For more of my impressions of the Beaumont Hotel & Spa and Ouray, check out Our Ouray. To find out more about the New Sheridan Hotel & Chophouse and to listen to a podcast, go to New Sheridan Hotel:  Telluride’s Historic Gem. There you can also learn about some of the reasons that make Telluride so unique.

Thank you to Merrrick Chase, Neil Hastings and the Beaumont Hotel for the images featured in this post.

Last Saturday's View of the Double RL Ranch

Last Saturday's View of the Double RL Ranch

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