Colorado Mountain Living New York Pot Pourri Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies Travel: Mountain Living New York Rockies Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride Travel
by maribeth
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March Madness Runs Into April
Wow, what a month it has been. It’s been at least that long since I posted a story on this blog. So what have I been doing? Skiing, of course. Mostly teaching skiing actually, nearly every day up until our closing here in Telluride which took place this past Easter Sunday, April 4th. I’m just now beginning to feel alive again. I say almost since I’m still consuming above-average amounts of caffeine but I know more energetic days lie ahead.
I’m much better than I was earlier in the week when I logged endless hours on my couch, too tired to read but content to watch copious amounts of T.V. in between long stretches of sleep. (I think my cats registered more awake time than I these past days.) And dare I take inventory of all my eating? I’ve been devouring the scalloped potatoes and chocolate left over from Easter, and by Tuesday afternoon I found myself whipping up a vanilla milkshake and sucking it down from the indented cushions of my couch faster than Oprah could say “We’ll be right back.” When I began to compulsively channel surf between Dancing with the Stars, CNN and Bravo, I worried that I might never feel normal again. But miraculously my cravings for sugar and fat diminished by Wednesday along with my desire to escape profoundly into the boob tube. Last night I even cracked a book, “Abundance: A Novel of Marie Antoinette,” that I can’t wait to get back to tonight. (I find it impossible to read during ski season when evenings mean either falling asleep by 9 or partying until 11.)
I don’t know how so many people pack it up as soon as the mountain closes. They head to Moab, Mexico and the Islands or embark upon adventures such as a rafting trip on the Salt River. These people must be largely motivated by the thrill of switching out ski boots for flip flops. I guess I’m just a softy. I need to recharge.
Anyone that works in the hospitality industry can tell you that March can be insane in the mountains. As a ski instructor, you have to be ON all the time throughout the sunniest and stormiest days of spring break (which this year lasted most of March right up until Easter). It doesn’t matter if your knees are killing you, your quads burn beyond belief or if you don’t have an ounce of gas left in your tank, it’s our job to spread rainbows and sunshine and to make sure that everyone has the best experience ever.
And what a great end-of-season it was here in T-ride. The snow fell generously and often, right up until the end, interspersed with glorious days of warmth and sun. I taught mostly private ski lessons to a terrific array of clients, some of whom promise to be future guests on Travel Fun. I delighted in teaching Josie, a sweetheart of a thirteen-year old, a first-timer that I worked into almost a complete parallel by the end of two days. Her parents, Kevin and Corinna, own Antlers & Anglers, an exclusive service that arranges hunting and fishing trips to alluring destinations around the world. I’m looking forward to having her dad on the program to talk about big game hunting and more. Perhaps an unusual sort of topic for my show, but certainly very interesting nonetheless. I had a blast with twin six-year olds, Max and Carrie, for a week and through this family, I met novelist Martha McPhee. (I also skied with her son Jasper.) Martha has a new book, “Dear Money,” coming out in June. This work showcases the financial world of New York where Martha lives, so it might be a hoot to have her on Travel Fun to talk about the ins and outs of the Big Apple’s high rolling landscape. I’m sure she can provide a few good restaurant recommendations as well. Martha is the daughter of the prolific nonfiction writer John McPhee and the sister of novelist Jenny McPhee. She’s married to poet Mark Svenvold who, along with Martha and the rest of the crew, enjoyed doing a bunch of nice turns in Telluride during one of our best weeks of March. (In case you’re wondering, Martha and I talked more about skiing than writing.)
My friend Kate Betts, renowned fashion and style editor, was also vacationing in T-ride during this time. We managed to work in a Travel Fun interview together which I’ll soon post here as a podcast. Kate is still a contributing writer for TIME Magazine but we mostly chatted about her recent project, a book about Michelle Obama, entitled “Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and The Power of Style.” “It’s really about why style matters,” Kate says.
In the midst of all this activity, I was asked to participate in a photo shoot for SKI Magazine, an undertaking that occupied nearly two day’s of my time both on the snow and in Bootdoctors, the Telluride sport specialist that is the focal point of this piece. Bootdoctors has gained great recognition for fixing people’s alignments (and their skiing!) by adjusting their equipment—mainly ski boots—to compensate for their own physiological imperfections. I was selected certainly not for my skiing prowess or on-camera presence but as a prime example of a knock-kneed woman. I shared the shoot with Don Hannah, longtime Telluride resident, fellow KOTO DJ, all around nice guy and brother to Daryl. Don was chosen to represent your average bow-legged man. This was no glamour shoot, especially since I was so caught up with my work that I hadn’t even thought about having a pedicure for the shots (and Internet footage!), many of which focused on an extensive custom boot-fitting for my feet. To think that my gnarly ski instructor feet are to appear rough-hewn and unpolished in a national magazine by next ski season— quel horreur! Don and I were also documented skiing our worst knock-kneed/bow-legged form on Telluride’s fine slopes. Don nailed my sentiments exactly when he said, “I’ve been reading SKI Magazine since I was a kid and now that I finally get to appear in it, I come across looking like a dork.” Oh well, Lindsey Vonn I am not.
So now it’s time to organize my personal space and to pick up my writer’s life. I’m on my tenth load of laundry this week and am chipping away at my e-mails. Fortunately it will be a slow transition since I have a couple of trips planned to Vail and Aspen before the month is out. You can read about some of my post- season adventures from last year at Skiing and Spa-Going: Part One in Vail, Colorado and at Aspen Highlights. I’m looking forward to free skiing and not having to instruct or look out for anyone’s well-being but my own. I bet I’ll miss the silly chairlift games and heartwarming connections though.
This is indeed a funny life, trading off between ski instructing and writing. But as much as it’s a juggling act, I can’t imagine giving it up. There’s nothing like balancing out the mental with the physical, especially when you live inthe Rocky Mountains. I wonder what Marie Antoinette would think.
Note that April is full of end-of-the-season activities at Colorado’s top resorts. Aspen Mountain closes this Sunday, April 11 but will reopen the weekends of April 17-18 and 24-25. Beaver Creek closes this Sunday as well, however Vail’s spring fling kicks into high gear April 12 with their Spring Back to Vail. Search the Internet for lots more great skiing and fun in Colorado through early May. You’ll find some terrific bargains, too. Be sure to pack your costumes and most colorful spring attire!
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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It’s Dumping in the Rockies
As though right on cue, the big snows are arriving in the Rockies like a gathering of elves furiously putting the finishing touches on holiday preparations at the North Pole. Like kids on Christmas Eve, people in ski towns all across Colorado are suffering from ski fever as the pow pow accumulates outside our doors. The only release is to ski (or board!) and those lucky enough to get out are enjoying some of the best first tracks of the season.
Less than two weeks ago the sun shone brightly throughout most of Colorado as the thermometer displayed nearly springlike temperatures. Opening day in Telluride was as much about hanging out at the Hop Garden, a popular slopeside restaurant and bar, as stretching your legs on the slopes. Yet from Aspen to Vail to Crested Butte, all were eager to see some real snow. Even Sylvester, the cat, the lucky resident of the Sundeck, Aspen’s mountaintop restaurant, longed to see snow blowing outside his window. (Heck, if it’s cold and nearly winter in the mountains, it might as well snow!)
Our wish has been granted and clearly winter is rolling in with great force. Just in time, too. Here in Telluride we’re gearing up for the LG FIS Snowboardcross World Cup that kicks off shortly. World-class athletes have already begun to arrive, some earlier than originally planned since there’s apparently no snow in Europe. Wait ‘til they get a taste of the Champagne powder of the great American West.
Click here to see what winter is like in Telluride. You really must see this for its incredibly beautiful. Thank you to Ben Knight for capturing the magic of our awe-inspiring place.
Thank you also to Lisa Wilson for the top photo and Tom Watkinson for the one below. Check out more of Lisa’s photos at Telluride Daily Photo and be sure to consider her 2010 calendar for holiday gifts. I love her shots of life in Telluride.
End Note: As I write this, I’ve had to reassure my kitties, Leo and Clara, that all is well. They’re blasting outside, a good sign for everyone but cats. I wonder how little Sylvester is surviving the avalanche control work in Aspen. He’s surely hiding, especially since he’s known to only emerge before the rush, early in the morning and after lunch.
Also if you’re lucky enough to be in Telluride, stop by the Hop Garden today at 4 p.m. to meet the US Team athletes for poster signing and fun.
Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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Wonderful Wolf Creek
It’s terrific how quickly you can throw yourself into another season. It’s been feeling like winter here in Colorado for nearly two weeks, every since a big November storm dumped two and a half feet of snow on a good part of the Rockies. That’s just how I like it: sunny and warm until mid November, then boom, hello snow.
I have much to write about my stay at The Broadmoor, but I’ll save that for later since right now I’m too excited about the start of ski season. Our mountain, Telluride Ski Resort, opens tomorrow and I can hardly wait. I already have the ski bug, especially after having whetted my appetite last week at Wolf Creek, a low key, family owned and operated ski area, known to be consistently endowed with the most snow in Colorado. Tucked up against the Continental Divide, our nation’s backbone, Wolf Creek typically opens early November (sometimes even by Halloween) with a more than respectable base made up almost entirely of natural snow.
By the time we left Colorado Springs, Steve and I were eager to hit the slopes. I had located my equipment in my secondary storage unit (read about my packing dramas here) and aside for the need of a good ski waxing, I was good to go. (The bikini wax had, of course, been taken care of before heading out on our trip.) Since we were approaching Wolf Creek from the northeast, we decided to locate a nice place to stay in South Fork, a quaint and quiet little town, probably best known for its fly fishing during the summer months. My Internet research pulled up Arbor House Inn, an elegant bed and breakfast on the Rio Grande river (which actually begins just a short drive up the mountain at the top of the Divide).
Steve and I could not have been more enchanted with our choice. I do think you can judge a book by its cover—at least most of the time—and you can also confidently select a place of lodging by its Web site. Sure, there’s always a chance for surprises but seasoned travel researchers generally know how to separate the good from the bad. We had nothing but delightful surprises at Arbor House Inn. In fact we were amazed to find such a polished establishment in the middle-of-nowhere-town of South Fork. Plush robes, candles in our room, well-stocked coffee and tea stations both in our room and in the inn’s dining room, candles at breakfast—there isn’t a detail passed over in this delightful inn. A sumptuous breakfast, overlooking a bucolic river scene, completes the romantic tableau that innkeepers Keith and Laurie Bratton have created in this little haven of peace in southwestern Colorado. Indeed these fine hosts are as gracious as their surroundings. And if you’re a dog lover, you’ll enjoy their two adorable Dachshunds as well as Chloe’s Corner, a charming room decorated with portraits of all our favorite canine ancestors. I love a place with a sense of humor and whimsy!
Second big discovery: Chalet Swiss, a lovely restaurant and bar, located just across the street from Arbor House Inn. In truth, I had been to this Euro-owned and operated bastion of tradition a couple of times before but it was fun to re-discover it with Steve, an Italian, who greatly appreciates fine dining without a bunch of fanfare. (This is actually very European.) Owner and Chef Fredi Brechbuehler presents specialties from his native Switzerland including Cheese Fondue, Raclette and Schitzel along with more traditional dishes such as Colorado Lamb Chops Provençale and Chicken Mushroom Fettuccine. It’s all perfect fare for pre or post recreating on the mountain.
It was tough pulling ourselves away from Arbor House Inn, even with the excitement of heading out for our first day on the slopes. Our enthusiasm mounted, however, as we embarked upon the climb to Wolf Creek Pass, a mere twenty-minute ascent that would take us to an elevation of 10,857 feet. In some respects it felt like I was coming home since I skied Wolf Creek a whole season when I first moved to Colorado—Pagosa Springs, Colorado to be exact—nearly eight years ago. (I can’t believe it has been that long.)
Celebrating its seventieth year, Wolf Creek epitomizes the sort of ski resort that many of us remember from childhood, the kind of mountain where lunch and lift tickets remain affordable and pretension of any kind feels out of place. Steve and I were thrilled. It took me a bit of doing to get going but once I heated up my boots beneath the blow dryer of the Ladies’ Room, I was ready to start my ski day. (Hint: Don’t ever leave your ski boots in a frozen car overnight, something I know better than to do but hey, we’re all rusty at the start of the season. Also, it’s best to cover your boots or put them in a boot bag in storage since I found mine to be loaded—well maybe not loaded but bad enough—with mouse turds!)
We hopped on the Raven Chair, Wolf Creek’s high-speed quad, an addition since I was last here, and began our day of skiing. Our choice of cruisers felt limitless since the whole mountain was open and coverage throughout was excellent. My ski conditioning workouts had paid off and Steve and I were able to ski run after run until we finally decided to stop for a bite to eat (I recommend the green chili stew here) and gulps of much-needed water. I let Steve ski the Alberta Lift—the part of the mountain where you find the most challenging terrain—the rest of the afternoon while I did more laps on the blues. It’s best to break yourself in slowly early season, at least for a cream puff like me.
Tomorrow I get to test my legs again on the slopes. But this time, it’s here in T-ride, on the very slopes I can spot right out my window.
Thank you, Wolf Creek, for the primer. Now it’s time for the big league.
Wolf Creek Ski Area, Pagosa Springs, CO, 800-SKI-WOLF (754-9653) and 970-264-5639, www.wolfcreekski.com
Wolf Creek offers a dozen or So Locals’ Appreciation Days on Wednesdays throughout the season. All-day adult lift tickets are priced at $31. and no special I.D. is required. The regular price is $52. most other days.
Arbor House Inn, 31358 West Highway 160, South Fork, 888-830-4642 and 719-873-5012, www.arborhouseinnco.com
Chalet Swiss, West Highway 160 across from Arbor House Inn, 719- 873-1100
Art & Culture Being Green Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel: Art & Culture Being Green Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
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The National Trust and Us
People don’t want to go to a place that has lost its soul.
—Arthur Frommer
Richard Moe, president of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, shared the above quote with me in a recent Travel Fun interview. As our nation’s leading historic preservation organization, the Trust has saved the soul and character of countless places in its sixty years of existence. From main streets to historic sites, this bipartisan organization works tirelessly toward preserving our country’s heritage.
As a part-time resident of Telluride, I’ve had the privilege of chatting with Dick Moe about historic preservation and some of his favorite destinations several times. He loves his time in the West and makes Telluride his base every summer for visiting some of the most significant cultural sites in the United States including Canyon of the Ancients in southwestern Colorado. In our interview, he also talks about other exciting locales in the region such as Durango, Silverton, Chimney Rock and the Rio Grande Gorge in Del Norte.
As for Telluride, it’s clear that it stands a cut above all other Rocky Mountain destinations. “Telluride has done a better job of preserving its historic character than any other mountain town,” says Dick. He also shares his thoughts on the Telluride Valley Floor, a 500-acre parcel of open space that he fought hard to preserve.
The Trust’s programs on sustainability and historic preservation are also discussed in our interview. Currently the organization is committed to a sustainability program that focuses on the environmental value of “recylcing” older buildings for new uses and retrofitting them for greater energy efficiency.
Heritage tourism is the fastest growing part of tourism, already a huge industry in our country. The National Trust has offered tours all over the world for quite some time but they’re expanding their reach with Gozaic, a one-stop shopping portal for heritage travel. You can hear what Dick has to say about this in our chat as well.
Listen to the entire half-hour interview I conducted with Richard Moe by clicking on the play button here:
People want to experience what’s real and genuine in communities.
—Richard Moe, President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation
Note that at the same time of this story posting, Richard Moe announced his retirement from the National Trust for Historic Preservation. He has been the longest serving president in the sixty-year history of the Trust. He plans to continue to hold that position until a replacement is found, likely in the spring of 2010.
National Trust for Historic Preservation, 202-588-6000 and 800-944-6847, www.preservationnation.org; you may become a member of the Trust and receive their award-winning magazine six times a year for as little as $20.
Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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Fall in Colorado: A Terrific In-Between Time of Year
I wrote glowingly about fall in the Rocky Mountains in Riding the Gondola, a story I posted this time of year last year. Now I’ll tell you about that funny in-between time just after most of the leaves have dropped and before most ski areas open, the period from mid October through Thanksgiving.
The bare aspens now blend into the mountainsides like bristly hairs on a crewcut. Golden cottonwoods along the rivers and russet red grasses and shrubs in the fields and on the slopes now punctuate this autumnal season. Dusted in white, the mountains stand steely grey awaiting the long, steady snowfalls that will soon accumulate. We already had a few, enough to know that winter is ready to barrel in. It’s usually snowy by Halloween in our mountain towns, Thanksgiving for sure.
Now officially off-season, lots of folks in the ski towns take off for a long break before the start of the season. The rest await anxiously the arrival of the big snows. Huge, barrel-shaped snow guns have already been placed strategically across slopes all over the Rockies. The blowing will soon begin and mother nature will be aided in the mission of creating the finest skiing in the West, indisputably the best in the world.
Loveland ski area officially opened a couple of weeks ago; they briefly closed since it had been unseasonably warm but are now open again. (Denver hit record-breaking highs in the eighties over the weekend after having had a snowed-out Rockies game a couple of weeks ago.) A-Basin is open, too, and others will soon follow. I learned today that die-hard skiers have been hiking up to Silverton for some early season back country skiing. Copper Mountain is slated for a November 6 opening. And even if only a few runs are skiable, it’s still a great way to get out and have fun and begin to get in shape for the season. I’ve skied Wolf Creek early November as well at times when the whole mountain has been open, blanketed in deep powder the sort you’d expect in the dead of winter. No wonder they’re known to be the snowiest ski mountain in all of Colorado.
Like Aspen and many other resorts, we’ll open in Telluride at Thanksgiving. Time is sure to fly between now and then and there will be many people caught without their skis waxed or their bodies properly prepared. I began ski conditioning class yesterday and even after just one session, I can tell I have a long way to go before adequately strengthening my core and legs for the slopes. (Boy, am I sore today!) Yet everyone’s talking snow and the countdown has begun to opening day. Ski movies are playing in our small-town cinemas and the excitement is mounting day by day.
Now is the time to score some great bargains on everything skiing. Many of the resorts are still promoting pre-season pass and lift ticket deals (some offers valid until October 30). Terrific lodging specials are also available, especially if you book before November 15. Flush with brand new merchandise, many of the ski and snowboard shops continue to offer discounted prices. In T-ride, the KOTO Ski Swap, a one-day event that’s held annually in mid-November (this year on the 14th), draws crowds from neighboring mountain towns that clamor for new and used ski clothing and gear at killer prices.
There’s anticipation in the air over this year’s turnout as well. But no one’s holding their breath too long since we know how important ski vacations are to people. They’re a great way for families, friends, guys and girls to get together and although ski holidays might not be totally recession proof, we know that this is where some of the best memories are forged. So it’s unlikely there will be too many breaks with tradition.
As for me, I can hardly wait for the season to begin. I have one more trip to take back east, then I hope to hunker down here in my beloved Colorado. My kitties are already in quasi hibernation mode which tells me that it’s time for me to park it as well. I’m excited about resuming my job as ski instructor in Telluride, the perfect antidote for too many hours at my desk and on the road. It’s also a great way to have and share fun with others.
Now it just has to start snowing.
Telluride Ski Resort Deals, http://tellurideskiresort.com/TellSki/hot-deals.aspx
Aspen/Snowmass Deals, http://www.aspensnowmass.com/travelinfo/package.cfm
Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel: Four Corners Ken Burns Podcasts Telluride Telluride Festivals The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on Ken Burns on America’s National Parks and Telluride
Ken Burns on America’s National Parks and Telluride
If you’re anything like me, you’ve been moved to tears every night this week watching Ken Burns’s six-part series, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea,” on PBS. This work was a labor of love for this master documentarian for some ten years and I think most of America is grateful for it finally being available for all to see. “It is the history of the ideas and the individuals that made this uniquely American thing happen,” Ken told me in a Travel Fun interview I conducted with him early September. “For the first time in history, land was set aside for the people,” he continued.
You may listen to the entire forty-minute interview I conducted with Ken by clicking on the play button here:
Ken also chats about his twenty-year relationship with Telluride. “It’s my lover,” he says. Listen to the podcast to find out why. You’ll also learn more about Ken’s two-decade long relationship with the Telluride Film Festival and why he calls it “the best festival on the planet.”
I was lucky enough to see one of Ken’s films on our National Parks on the big screen at Telluride’s Mountain Film Festival last May. Read about that experience here.
Book Picks
“Ken Burns: The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” at www.shoppbs.org/home. You can buy this must-have tome and the DVD and receive the CD soundtrack for free.
Podcast (bonjour): Play in new window | Download
Colorado Crested Butte Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Restaurants The Rockies: Colorado Crested Butte Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Restaurants The Rockies
by maribeth
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Testing My Mettle in Crested Butte
Sometimes it’s hard being a girly-girl in the Rocky Mountains. No matter how thin, how blond, how tanned, it seems as though these Colorado women are made of tough stuff. Some have their nails done on a regular basis and their hair colored with even greater frequency, but beneath their fresh-as-an-alpine-morning allure, they’re able to keep up with the most competitive men, the super fit guys that think nothing of powering up a stretch of singletrack at nosebleed elevations and then charging down the slope at near breakneck speed. These dudes are typically the husbands, boyfriends and partners of the aforementioned Colorado mountain girls and I’ve come to observe that most everything that the men take on, the women do nearly as well (and in some cases, even better). Their approach might be a tad less aggro but none seem to hesitate much. It’s kind of what’s expected out here.
And then there’s me. My life’s now a far cry from the Parisian Princess posturing I maintained for more than a decade in the French capital. Yes, I even became a ski instructor in an attempt to break out of such a pampered modus operandi. But still, my softness prevails and sometimes it just gets in my way, preventing me from engaging full-on in real mountain activities with the rest of the men and women I encounter here in the West.
This monster of girliness reared its ugly head last weekend during a special gathering of friends in Crested Butte, a mecca of mountain bike riding in America. As much as I’ve had a big passion for road riding in recent years, I’ve done very little mountain bike riding, mostly because I haven’t had my own bike. (O.K., I admit I’ve had a few nervous moments on singletrack when I feared I’d topple off my bike and fall down a cliff.) But I knew one of the main events of the weekend was going to involve a group bike ride, so I packed my chamois-bottomed shorts and cycling jersey and began to psyche myself up for the expedition. When D-day arrived, however, I choked, especially when I heard the ride would traverse some of CB’s most pristine stretches of singletrack, one and a half-foot wide swathes of trails that would normally be the envy of any respectable rider. But I couldn’t help thinking about the wobbling and eventual toppling over that might likely occur out on some precipitous ledge.
Aspen Colorado Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas The Rockies: Aspen Colorado Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas The Rockies
by maribeth
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Aspen Highlights
Going to Aspen for a Tellurider is like going to the big city. Actually the level of sophistication one can experience in Aspen is more than what most cosmopolitan cities offer. I love checking out the shops, spas, restaurants and hotels and prefer to chince on my outdoor activities here in order to take in all the happening spots in this chic Rocky Mountain resort town.
I was holed up in Aspen for nearly six weeks this past off-season, ample time to return to some of my favorite haunts and discover new ones. I walked the streets some with my dad which is how I came to discover Limelight Lodge. He had stayed at this family-owned long-established hotel eons ago but now it touts an entirely new look. The original lodge was actually torn down and replaced by a sleek, new building that houses an expansive modern lobby/lounge area and style-y rooms outfitted with mini kitchenettes (fridge, microwave, coffee maker, silverware and plates). Aspen has never looked so cool, comfy and contemporary. I’m sure it’s quickly becoming the hotspot to stay in town.