Mountain Living Pot Pourri Romance & Relationships Travel: Mountain Living Pot Pourri Romance & Relationships Travel
by maribeth
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What Kind of a Traveler Am I Anyhow? Part One: Packing
I can be a bit of a kook actually. Sometimes I’m frighteningly calm, other times I’m manic. Doesn’t traveling amplify all of our crazy, quirky, compulsive traits? Travel can be about totally letting go, but it’s also about zeroing in on the most minute details. For me, I love being in this mode of complete bipolarity when it comes to touring and discovery. But when it concerns the logistics of travel—planes and packing, for example—it can make me nuts. Or I just respond with a total laissez-faire attitude that can potentially make others around me go ballistic.
Let’s take packing. I’m from the bring-a-wide-selection-so-that-you-have-a-choice mindset. That’s totally Old School, especially with the baggage surcharges enforced by the airlines today. It’s tough though since I love to look my best when traveling and that often means switching out handbags and shoes along with a few different sweaters and a couple of coats. (We’re already approaching the limit here.) I had a near breakdown when I traveled to the east coast in September which prompted a major intervention I performed on myself (in the privacy of my bedroom, thank goodness) when I prepared for a second east coast trip in October. I don’t know what I was thinking, but I almost choked at the United counter in September when I had to pay $75. for two bags that I hadn’t even registered online. And that was just for the outbound segment. What made it worse was that I was to be spending most of my time in beach communities in Virginia Beach and The Outer Banks. How much room could a couple of bathing suits, sandals and assorted casual wear take up? This is pathetic, I thought to myself at check in. Granted I had a heavy silk dress and jacket packed in there for a wedding I was to attend (with, of course, the requisite matching sandals and bag). I was cursing my boyfriend, Steve, to myself for having urged me to take my sneakers. (Now that’s a space eater if there ever was one—who walks on the beach in sneaks anyway?) I had also thrown in my hairdryer since it appeared I might be without one for a bit. (Who travels with a hairdryer these days?) And my toiletry case ended up being the joke of our ten-day trip since it was stuffed with twenty some odd bottles (mini, but still), containing my prized potions and lotions that I presumably couldn’t live without. Now really? My God, an intervention was definitely in order. Clearly I hadn’t followed my own packing tips outlined here.
I know better. But an overflow of stress, combined with a what-the-hell kind of attitude provoked me to throw all my stuff into one suitcase, a duffle bag and two carry ons. I schlepped this proliferation of possessions from plane, to car, to another car, to taxi, to bus (yes, even on the Greyhound; read Riding the Bus), then to more car, plane and car, cursing myself the whole way. You get the idea.
I swore I’d never do that again. And so I haven’t, at least not on my October trip back east. I followed my own advice and cut my wardrobe selection in half and let it hang on door handles in my room for a few days before departure. Then I thought more about all—accessories and toiletries included—and neatly folded my trim little selection into my suitcase the morning of my departure. Phew! The intervention had worked. Plus I had registered my one bag online within the twenty-four-hour period allowed. Boy was I feeling mighty!
Suddenly I’m struck with that panicky feeling again, a strange sort of anxiety brought on by pre-departure packing plans. I’m leaving tomorrow with Steve on an almost week-long jaunt to Colorado Springs. He’s the General Manager at Mountain Lodge in Telluride and he’ll be attending the annual Colorado Hotel and Lodging Association conference at The Broadmoor. I’ll be joining him at a few events in search of story ideas and more. I already had my wardrobe planned in my head (and on my door knobs), thinking I’d draw from some combination of Rocky Mountain casual and Parisian chic. (It is The Broadmoor after all.) Then suddenly he tells me he’d like to add on a day of skiing on the return trip. “Oh, sure, sure, that’s great,” I said. But then I thought about having to pack my ski pants and ski jacket, mittens, hat, the whole shabang. I had already been wondering where my skis and ski boots were located since I didn’t see them in my storage area in Montrose, an hour and a half from where I live, when I went to pick up my winter things there ten days ago. I’ve been meaning to check my other storage area in Telluride as well as my ski locker at the mountain. My heart quickened. I’ve been on the verge of throwing Getting Ready for Ski Season: Part Two into motion, but now I need to get it into full activation mode. (Fortunately I’m already well into Getting Ready for Ski Season: Part One.)
Jeez, this is really confusing. And then I wonder how many other people go through these kinds of mind games regarding travel. Our supposedly more relaxed lifestyle of The West can be thrown a curve ball when you add on “just one day of skiing” to a business trip/elegant romantic getaway. One would think I’d be a professional traveler and could handle any scenario. When I’m in full ski instructor mode I sometimes sleep in my long underwear, get up, have breakfast, wash my face, brush my teeth and fly out the door to the mountain in near record time. But this travel combo so early in the season almost seems daunting. I take a deep breath and remember all the calming words I uttered to myself during my little intervention. Ssssh, ssssh, ssssh, stop, I say to myself. So what if I have to take two different pairs of mittens, socks and a variety of layers in order to be properly prepared for any type of weather for our one day of skiing, our maiden voyage of the ski season. I can handle it, I tell myself. And you won’t bring more than one file along with your laptop, I add on, almost as an afterthought. Can it be a fat one? I ask myself pleadingly. All right, all right.
Thankfully Steve, who travels considerably for his work, is no better than me. Actually worse, I think. On our east coast trip in September, he also checked two bags and a guitar! I’m not altogether sure what he had packed in his duffels but he mumbled something about his wetsuit and booties taking up a lot of room. Like my hairdryer, his wetsuit, booties and guitar were used only once during the entire trip. He employed his surfboard considerably more but that he leaves stashed back east. I wouldn’t think of doing a packing intervention on him. In any event, I love the fact that I travel with a guy that brings more stuff than me.
I wonder how it will be for us this trip. I’m already beginning to feel slightly superior after my October test, despite my sporadic mind chatter that has raised some new packing insecurities. We are driving and neither of us has to worry about baggage allotments. Hmmmmm. Oh dear, I sense a binge coming on.
Art & Culture Being Green Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel: Art & Culture Being Green Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
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The National Trust and Us
People don’t want to go to a place that has lost its soul.
—Arthur Frommer
Richard Moe, president of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, shared the above quote with me in a recent Travel Fun interview. As our nation’s leading historic preservation organization, the Trust has saved the soul and character of countless places in its sixty years of existence. From main streets to historic sites, this bipartisan organization works tirelessly toward preserving our country’s heritage.
As a part-time resident of Telluride, I’ve had the privilege of chatting with Dick Moe about historic preservation and some of his favorite destinations several times. He loves his time in the West and makes Telluride his base every summer for visiting some of the most significant cultural sites in the United States including Canyon of the Ancients in southwestern Colorado. In our interview, he also talks about other exciting locales in the region such as Durango, Silverton, Chimney Rock and the Rio Grande Gorge in Del Norte.
As for Telluride, it’s clear that it stands a cut above all other Rocky Mountain destinations. “Telluride has done a better job of preserving its historic character than any other mountain town,” says Dick. He also shares his thoughts on the Telluride Valley Floor, a 500-acre parcel of open space that he fought hard to preserve.
The Trust’s programs on sustainability and historic preservation are also discussed in our interview. Currently the organization is committed to a sustainability program that focuses on the environmental value of “recylcing” older buildings for new uses and retrofitting them for greater energy efficiency.
Heritage tourism is the fastest growing part of tourism, already a huge industry in our country. The National Trust has offered tours all over the world for quite some time but they’re expanding their reach with Gozaic, a one-stop shopping portal for heritage travel. You can hear what Dick has to say about this in our chat as well.
Listen to the entire half-hour interview I conducted with Richard Moe by clicking on the play button here:
People want to experience what’s real and genuine in communities.
—Richard Moe, President of the National Trust for Historic Preservation
Note that at the same time of this story posting, Richard Moe announced his retirement from the National Trust for Historic Preservation. He has been the longest serving president in the sixty-year history of the Trust. He plans to continue to hold that position until a replacement is found, likely in the spring of 2010.
National Trust for Historic Preservation, 202-588-6000 and 800-944-6847, www.preservationnation.org; you may become a member of the Trust and receive their award-winning magazine six times a year for as little as $20.
French Life Paris Travel: French Life Paris Travel
by maribeth
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Renting in Paris: A Dream Come True for Many
Ever imagine yourself ducking into a Paris bakery to buy warm, crusty bread and flaky croissants to accompany your morning coffee? Or perhaps you’ve envisioned yourself shopping for cheese, wine, pâté and the freshest produce imaginable at a colorful open-air market on the Left Bank? If so, you’re not alone.
I regularly hear from avid Francophiles, most of whom possess a huge passion for Paris. Many have made it their mission to live like a Parisian for a period of time—that’s to say they have rented apartments in the French capital and have embraced la vie française as if they were a native. Lately though, more and more occasional travelers to France ask me about renting in Paris. It seems as though even people that don’t consider themselves overly passionate about Paris share the fantasy of finding themselves living in a more romantic manner than how they live at home. Staying in your own pied-à-terre is definitely a charming way of experiencing Paris and I sat down and talked about this recently with Glenn Cooper, owner of Rentals in Paris, one of the most reputable companies for renting apartments in Paris.
“It’s a basic dollars and cents equation,” Glenn said. “You get more space and better value with apartment rentals.” And here I thought people were primarily motivated by the whole living-like-a-Parisian dream. Certainly that’s a big part of it, but I was extremely interested to hear what Glenn had to say about the price/quality relationship behind renting in Paris, especially during these challenging times. I couldn’t help conjuring up images of wonderful pique niques (picnics) that one could organize in their Parisian abode.
“But I wouldn’t necessarily recommend renting a place in Paris for the first-time visitor, “ Glenn added. “Especially if they need to be taken by the hand. In that case, it’s better to be in a hotel with a concierge.” Suddenly I had a flash of one visit to Paris I took with my mom. We rented a terrific place right off the rue de Buci. Our most challenging moment came when we had to organize a taxi for an early morning departure. Thankfully I knew that I had to go to find one at a nearby taxi stand or my mother and I would have been left standing in front of our building for ages with the hope of hailing a passing taxi. A first-time visitor might not have known such a thing, so you either have to be very well debriefed or more intrepid than your average hotel guest if your maiden voyage to Paris involves a rental.
Glenn suggests taking an apartment in the heart of Paris, and most of his are indeed centrally located and among the nicest you’ll find. And although a concierge may not be at your beckon call, Glenn does have a very competent team in place that makes sure you’re well received and assisted throughout your stay.
Your fantasy about preparing coq au vin in your own little chez vous in Paris could easily become a reality, perhaps as early as this winter when air fares to Europe typically drop to near-bargain basement levels.
Rentals in Paris, 516-977-3318, www.rentals-paris.com
Hotels & Lodging Travel: Hotels & Lodging Travel
by maribeth
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San Francisco Elegance
Some of my most memorable moments have been created in fine hotels and restaurants. There’s something about sitting in the lap of luxury that makes you never forget the place, the moment or the person with whom you share such an experience. I remember dining at Paris’s famed La Tour d’Argent with my mother and then French husband to celebrate the publication of my first book, “The Chic Shopper’s Guide to Paris,” and staying at The Peninsula in Hong Kong on the occasion of a wild fling (mon dieu!) with a fellow travel writer. These all happened many years ago but in my mind, the details are so vivid it seems as though they happened yesterday. There have been many fabulous hotels and restaurants since and I know I could sit down today and parse the most impressionable moments from each.
My times in Motel 6’s and Super 8’s have escaped me entirely.
This is why people splurge from time to time to sample such fine establishments. They might blow a week’s salary on an amazing long weekend but in the end, they have created a lifetime’s worth of memories. And yes, this is still happening today. Not only do people realize the necessity for marking special occasions such as a birthday, an anniversary or just a romantic weekend away, but the deals on many of the world’s landmark properties are better than ever. So if it comes down to choices, why not consider a lodging or dining extravagance over an addition to your wardrobe or another electronic gadget?
I recently discovered the Huntington Hotel in San Francisco and have added it to my list of most unforgettable hotels. Situated amongst other grand residences in the stately neighborhood of Nob Hill, this elegant establishment has been graciously welcoming discerning travelers for eighty-five years. Its close proximity to Union Square, the center of town, provides it with an ideal location, yet you truly feel away-from-it-all atop Nob Hill, the very place where the railroad barons of the Central Pacific Line chose to establish residence at the latter part of the nineteenth century. Fisherman’s Wharf and Chinatown are also within walking distance, but you might not want to venture far since a lively collection of shops and bistrots have also taken up residence on Nob HIll, just a couple of blocks from The Huntington.
If you do stay here, you might even want to leave the bulk of your sight-seeing for another trip since it’s easy to become ensconced in the grandeur of this superlative hotel. I love its Old World charm which may be best experienced within the cozy confines of its bar area, a wood-paneled enclave, perfect for speaking in hushed tones to the one you love. Yet like most of the world’s long-established luxury hotels, its amenities are completely twenty-first century. Nob Hill Spa at The Huntington Hotel serves as a prime example. This serene space had been conceived with both Elysian pampering and big city de-stressing in mind.
And I assure you, you’re likely not to forget your time spent at this spa, or within the entire Huntington Hotel, as long as you live.
The Huntington Hotel & Nob Hill Spa, 1075 California Street, 415-474-5400, www.huntingtonhotel.com
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Travel: Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping The Beach Travel
by maribeth
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East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks
Even travel writers need a vacation. Everybody needs a break from their job even if their work is their passion. That’s exactly what I did during my four days and nights on The Outer Banks of North Carolina. I didn’t take a single note. I didn’t scout out the best places of lodging, the most typical restaurants or everyone’s favorite dairy bar. I didn’t come away with a single address, phone number or Web site.
My mind is imbued, however, with myriad images of a place that was once imagined and is now forever known. I had envisioned a certain wildness about this immense slice of land that extends along the coast of North Carolina. (The Outer Banks is actually a long, narrow string of barrier islands some two-hundred miles long.) I found its untamed characteristics in its charging surf and along immense swathes of beaches best accessed by four-wheel drive vehicles with deflated tires. I felt enchanted by the region’s cedar shingled houses on stilts despite the over proliferation of them in a good many areas. Indeed the development of The Outer Banks has not always been kept carefully in check but it’s no wonder since much like on Cape Cod and in certain parts of Maine, the ocean roars for attention here drawing crowds from near and far.
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel: Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Beach Travel
by maribeth
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Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Virginia Beach
I have to admit I’m more of a Saint-Tropez kind of gal, so I felt somewhat wary about the idea of spending time at Virginia Beach, a destination that conjured up images of guys in muscle shirts and girls romping about in wet T-shirt contests on the beach. But it made sense for me to park myself there for a few days until my boyfriend, Steve, came by to pick me up for our trip to the Outer Banks. He had actually lived in VB for a while nearly two decades ago and his curiosity about the evolution of this major resort town encouraged me to check it out.
Both of us ended up being quite impressed by this super beach-y destination.
And who wouldn’t be? The Atlantic is gorgeous here. It stretches out as far as the eye can see and comes crashing in with big tumbling waves. I love the vastness of the ocean but I find it even more interesting when there’s activity on the water and here, at practically the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, there’s plenty to see. Cruise ships, barges, immense freighters and all kinds of pleasure boats pass by at varying distances from the horizon, providing endless hours of entertainment, especially for a landlubber like me.
The beach and boardwalk tract the coast for some three miles here. My biggest decisions revolved around whether I’d walk on the expansive sandy beach or meander along the impeccably maintained boardwalk. Now that’s vacation mode. Most of the time I ended up doing a combination of both. The scene at both locales percolated with locals and visitors alike doing all the fun things you do at the beach. And yes, I saw a number of muscle men, but more in the form of super fit guys jogging, walking and roller blading along the boardwalk. Few posers here. This is the real deal since Naval Air Station (NAS) Oceana, our country’s largest naval facility is located in VB and I can assure you that all of these military dudes and dudettes appear more than fit to serve. The locals overall look as taut and tight as most Coloradans. This is a beach community after all.
The tourists seem more concerned with gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and various other eateries along the beach. And VB is their oyster when it comes to choosing their preferred form of temptation. There’s something for every taste and pocketbook and most scintillate with a brightly-colored decor that offers outstanding views of the beach.
Far from a tired old beach town, Virginia Beach pops and bubbles with beautiful places of lodging as well. The Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club is one such place and I felt so content here that it was hard to tear myself away from the sunny interior of my eighth floor abode that plunged over the ocean. The crash of the waves on the beach lulled me to sleep and I snatched every possible moment to sit on my balcony high above the activity below. Morning meant gazing down at early risers strolling on this vast playland of freshly raked beach. I sipped tea (hot and iced) bemused by pods of dolphins that frolicked in the surf throughout the day. In the evening I savored white wine staring down at this constantly animated tableau and one night I even worked on my laptop from my little perch. The combined glow from the moon and my computer screen will never be forgotten.
A little investigating led me to unearth lots of charm amidst all this newness. Of course the quaintness of the beach never waned, but I delighted in discovering some small, soulful places that clearly rank as locals’ best-loved establishments. I peeked into Pelon’s Baja Grill, a surfers’ favorite, the first day I arrived, yet sadly never made it back for some of their renowned fish tacos and guacamole. I picked up some excellent take out instead from Taste nearby and brought it back to my surf-side enclave. I also longed to experience the old beach house interiors of Doc Taylor’s and Tautogs, but opted out of eating there as well since the beach beckoned. (I swear I’ll return to Doc Taylor’s some day, especially for their crab crêpe with veggies topped with Hollandaise sauce.) Steve and I did, however, grab breakfast at The Belvedere Coffee Shop, a real classic that hasn’t changed since the days when he would come here with his buddies before a day in the surf. The Belvedere is a totally unpretentious diner that offers fantastic views of the ocean and tasty eggs cooked to order.
Rockfish, a must-see for anyone that has a love for the Beatles, presents more great vistas of the beach. After having studied the plethora of Beatles’ memorabilia here (one of the largest in the world), I was happy to sit outside and gaze at the VB Fishing Pier over their lighter version of scrumptious She-crab soup (a sort of bisque) and Pina Colada. She loves you, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Steve arrived for my last night and I was excited to show him all that I had discovered at Virginia Beach Oceanfront. We strolled along the boardwalk, his eyes widening as though he was seeing it all for the first time. We stopped in front of the many different points of interests—-extraordinary statues and the like—that were erected at each intersection of a street along the Boardwalk. He was amazed at how far this once shabby beach town had come, how handsomely the oceanfront had been developed over the past ten years or so. We lingered at the Neptune Plaza for a while where free concerts are performed nightly to a highly animated crowd. We poked in at The Jewish Mother, an institution of sorts known for hosting performers such as Dave Matthews and Dr. John (before they became big). Steve informed me that it hadn’t changed an ounce since his college days but we learned that it is slated to take over new digs in 2010. (This is likely a good thing since to me it looked like too much of a dive.) Their eight-inch tall carrot cake, however, tempted me greatly but we were in search of a more romantic venue.
We found our bliss at the SkyBar, the wraparound pool bar that opens at 10 p.m. on top of the Hilton. Apparently it’s only open to hotel guests, but that alone would give me reason to stay there. Part Miami, part Marrakesh, part (yes) Saint-Tropez, the look of the SkyBar is sexy and alluring. As soon as the doors opened, we busted onto the scene, took one look around and threw down my jacket on one of their many double-wide loungers that punctuate their pool deck. After doing the 360-degree tour, we opted for a lounger within the indoor pool area. It was nearing late September by now and the ocean breeze cast a chill in the air. Inside felt like a tropical paradise. We sipped strawberry daiquiris and lounged in each others’ arms amidst piles of white terry towels, many of which were rolled up into perfect bolsters. Steve moved to take off his shirt until I suggested we not become quite so comfy. As much as we were enjoying each other, we didn’t miss a minute of the action that played out before us. House music blared and fashionable folks slithered by as though they were mingling at a mixer on the beach.
I wondered how many people had ended up in the pool after a couple of hours of partying. Undoubtedly a few. If so, VB’s wet T-shirt exhibitions have certainly come a long way. Steve and I vowed to come back to take in even more next time.
Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club, 3401 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-0601 or 800-245-1003, www.vboceanbeachclub.com
Hilton, 3001 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-3000, www.Hilton.com/VirginiaBeach; SkyBar is open Friday and Saturday nights from 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. throughout the season (which goes at least until October 31st when they’ll have a Fire & Ice Halloween Party—ooo la la!). SkyBar memberships are also available inside Catch 31, the showcase restaurant of the Hilton, for $100.
Pelon’s Baja Grill, 3619 Pacific Avenue, 757-417-3970, www.pelonsbajagrill.com
Taste, 36th & Pacific Avenue, 757-422-3399, www.tasteunlimited.com
Doc Taylor’s Restaurant, 207 23rd Street, 757-425-1960
Tautogs, 205 23rd Street, 757-422-0081, www.tautogs.com
Belvedere Coffee Shop, 3601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-0613
Rockfish Boardwalk Bar and Sea Grill, 1601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-7625, www.phrinc.com/restaurants/rockfish
The Jewish Mother, 3108 Pacific Avenue, 757-422-5430, www.jewishmother.com
More Fun
Pocahontas Pancake & Waffle Shop, Atlantic Aveune & 35th Street, 757-428-6352, www.pocahontaspancakes.com; loved the kitschy decor and will definitely return some day for their griddlecakes.
Whalebone, 1616 Laskin Road #748B, 757-437-8141, www.whalebonesurfshop.com; the place to shop for surfboards and surf attire, particularly ultra-cool T-shirts.
Coastal Edge, 2122 Atlantic Avenue, 757-491-9017, www.coastaledge.com; a super-popular surf and skate shop with numerous locations in Virginia Beach.
Forbes Candies, 2318 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-5173, www.forbescandies.com; an Old School candy company that continues to make yummy saltwater taffy and other treats in big copper pots.
Riding the Bus with Greyhound
Sometimes Amtrak just doesn’t cut it. And since I’ll do just about anything to avoid driving—especially in an area unfamiliar to me—I decided to give good ‘ole Greyhound a whirl. They typically serve more destinations than Amtrak within corridors where plane travel doesn’t make much sense.
I used to take the Greyhound somewhat regularly during my college days and came to tolerate the Boston/Albany route fairly well. That was some time ago needless-to-say but although I wouldn’t go so far as to say I’m an intrepid traveler, I am a good sport. So I thought what the heck, Greyhound is a good way to go. At least for this trip that was to take me from downtown D.C. to Virginia Beach, a distance of just over two hundred miles. I didn’t need a car in VB and my return trip was arranged, so I thought I’d heed that famous slogan that says “leave the driving to us.”
Four Corners Podcasts Telluride The Rockies Travel: Four Corners Ken Burns Podcasts Telluride Telluride Festivals The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
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Ken Burns on America’s National Parks and Telluride
If you’re anything like me, you’ve been moved to tears every night this week watching Ken Burns’s six-part series, “The National Parks: America’s Best Idea,” on PBS. This work was a labor of love for this master documentarian for some ten years and I think most of America is grateful for it finally being available for all to see. “It is the history of the ideas and the individuals that made this uniquely American thing happen,” Ken told me in a Travel Fun interview I conducted with him early September. “For the first time in history, land was set aside for the people,” he continued.
You may listen to the entire forty-minute interview I conducted with Ken by clicking on the play button here:
Ken also chats about his twenty-year relationship with Telluride. “It’s my lover,” he says. Listen to the podcast to find out why. You’ll also learn more about Ken’s two-decade long relationship with the Telluride Film Festival and why he calls it “the best festival on the planet.”
I was lucky enough to see one of Ken’s films on our National Parks on the big screen at Telluride’s Mountain Film Festival last May. Read about that experience here.
Book Picks
“Ken Burns: The National Parks: America’s Best Idea” at www.shoppbs.org/home. You can buy this must-have tome and the DVD and receive the CD soundtrack for free.
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