15 Oct 2012, 3:09pm
Art & Culture Colorado Four Corners Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Southwest Utah:
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On the Trail of Western Movie-Making in Utah and Colorado

Monument Valley: An Iconic Shot

I’m feeling a little sentimental these days. Lately this golden season has flooded me with memories of two significant trips I took in the West at this time of year. The first occurred eleven years ago when I discovered the penetrating red rock landscapes of Moab, Utah during a road trip with the goal of where to settle in the West. The second happened in Monument Valley when I accompanied my parents on a trip-of-a-lifetime through southern Utah and then down to the Grand Canyon. (Visiting the Canyon had always been a dream of father’s—little did he know he’d end up marveling at the awe-inspiring monuments of Monument Valley just as much.)

Red Cliffs Lodge in Moab

At each of these high desert destinations, I felt and continue to feel humbled by the panoramic vistas seemingly painted in every shade of red throughout this arid land. Here buttes, spires and pinnacles tower over you as though nature’s standing guard in what sometimes looks like one of America’s last great frontiers. It’s no wonder some of the most iconic images of our country may be found in Moab and Monument Valley, Utah. The greatest westerns ever made were filmed here, specifically at two lodges that continue to pay tribute to the rich history of movie-making that occurred around their properties:  Red Cliffs Lodge in Moab and Goulding’s Lodge in Monument Valley. The landscapes at and surrounding these ranches have, in fact, been so well preserved that movies, TV shows and commercials continue to be filmed here today. (Johnnie Depp was just at Goulding’s last spring filming the new version of “The Lone Ranger.”)

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25 Sep 2012, 12:25pm
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Sweet Sorrel: A Wonderful Destination Resort in Moab

A Glorious High-Desert Garden at Sorrel River Ranch

When most people think of Moab, Utah, they imagine red rock landscapes the likes of which you see in some of the best westerns. Indeed, many great movies, TV shows and commercials, featuring the rugged scenery of the great American West, have been and continue to be made here, It is the land of two wonderful national parks:  Arches and Canyonlands. But those in-the- know—and especially those that have traveled to the sweetest spots of Moab along the banks of the Colorado River—are aware that there’s many an oasis within this russet-red land.

Surely one of the most lush, the greenest piece of well-irrigated earth—long ago homesteaded by adventuresome settlers—makes up the Sorrel River Ranch Resort & Spa, a veritable paradise where fine living meets the great outdoors. I first stayed here nearly eleven years ago, shortly after the ranch was transformed into an elegant resort and here I am happy to find myself once again. It’s the kind of place you want to settle into for an entire week, but sadly I’m just passing through. Who ever said the life of a travel writer is marked by long periods of rest and relaxation?

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6 May 2012, 4:42pm
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Spas The Rockies Utah:
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Stein Eriksen Lodge: A Rocky Mountain Classic Where Sunday Brunch Astounds

An Arrival Circle Fit for an Olympian at Stein Eriksen Lodge

Since I moved to the Rockies nearly ten years ago, I’ve been cultivating a short list of renowned resorts that I’ve wanted to discover. (Anyone that reads this blog with any frequency knows that I love fine hotels and more importantly, the ambiance they create.) Let me see. There’s The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, Sonnenalp in Vail and Sundance and Stein Eriksen Lodge in Utah. These are what I consider to be the crème de la crème of the old, established Rocky Mountain resorts and by the time I post this story, I will have experienced all of them. (Feel free to let me know if I’m missing any from this grouping! Yes, I know there are some great lodges in Montana and Wyoming, but I’ll save them for another day.)

There’s a reason these establishments have been world-renowned for decades. Actually at each, you can count many reasons, the biggest one perhaps being that it’s easy to create memories at these properties, unique moments that remain with you forever thanks to the overall feel of the resort. Details such as fresh flowers, hand-carved furnishings, a saloon with a creaky wooden floor and the uniforms sported by the people that work there also help to transport you to a different place.

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26 Apr 2012, 4:08pm
Restaurants Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies Utah:
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Spring Skiing at Snowbird

Snowbird’s Iconic Tram

You know what’s great about sore legs? Afterward—once they’re no longer sore—they feel strong and toned.

That’s how mine are feeling today and I’m loving it. I had quite the workout over the weekend, maybe the biggest of the season. It’s no wonder. I met up with my oldest brother, Frank, and skied with him, some of his buddies and my hunny for two days in Snowbird, Utah. With them, I pushed the limits of my comfort zone on one of the best mountains in the West. And what an initiation it was into the big leagues. These guys don’t mess around.

Mineral Basin: One of Our Favorite Spots on the Mountain—Just Like Skiing on a Glacier in the Alps

Steve and Me on Our Last Day of the Ski Season at Snowbird

I had heard about Snowbird, Utah for years, mostly from Frank who goes there nearly every year. I was eager to discover it, especially since most of the ski resorts in Colorado have ended their seasons. I love spring skiing in April once Telluride has closed and normally meet up with another brother, David, and his wife, Geri, in Aspen. Or I head to Vail. Although this year I was smart to pick Snowbird since this extraordinary mountain still boasts a near ninety inch base.

And whoa, what snow! We didn’t see a single bare spot. They have enough to push around until well into May. “Continuing our tradition of offering the longest ski season in Utah, Snowbird is prepared to stay open for skiing and snowboarding as long as the snowpack permits,” says Dave Fields, V.P. of Resort Operations.

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Traveling with Seniors: A Lesson in Patience and Humility

The Folks and Me at Monument Valley

The Folks and Me at Monument Valley

Togethering, a term coined not long after 9/11, has gained momentum over these past years as families and friends enjoy the bonds created by spending vacations together. Multi-generational traveling has become more commonplace than ever as more and more families hit the road with grandma and grandpa in tow. Parents with young children seem well-equipped to deal with the needs and demands of their little ones while away from home. They’re just basically taking their show on the road since they’re already well accustomed to taking care of their kids at home. Sure, certain adjustments have to be made but most people know their children well enough to be able to make them “happy campers” when traveling. But what about our aging parents’ needs? Do we know how to make a trip smooth sailing for them?

Not always. And I’m speaking from first-hand experience.

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Romantic Getaway in the Heart of Utah’s Ski Country

Schussing at Sundance

Schussing at Sundance

Romantic getaways can take many forms. For my boyfriend, Steve, and me an escape centered around skiing works well for us, no matter what destination we chose. This time we skied four days in Utah, testing and comparing four different mountains, a terrific outdoor adventure that made our many candlelight and fireside moments feel all the more rewarding.

It’s great when you share a passion with someone and for both of us, skiing creates a powerful bond whether here in Telluride or at other resorts. But as with all aspects of a relationship, compromises must be made. (Hear that Steve!?! Only kidding. Hubba-hubba.) Fortunately we were able to strike the right balance during this trip, one that allowed Steve to obtain his share of challenging skiing and me to fulfill my all-important quest for an authentic travel experience.

Romance, Sundance Style

Romance, Sundance Style

Kudos to Steve for having selected Sundance Resort, the dream that Robert Redford realized in the mountains of Utah over four decades ago. We made Sundance our base and explored Park City Mountain Resort and Deer Valley Resort from there. (The Canyons came on the last day after spending a night in Park City.) We quickly concurred that that was the right formula for us since settling into Sundance made us feel like we were holed up in our own private retreat. (The big resorts at the bigger ski areas offer a more look-at-all-we-have-to-offer-you-here-in-the-mountains stay.)

We like to keep it simple, and at Sundance we discovered a warm and genuine atmosphere that celebrates the spirit of the West and its mountains. We immensely enjoyed our Mountain Suite punctuated by rough-hewn woods and warm, woolen accents. Here we made roaring fires (no gas flames!) and sipped hot chocolate in the quietude of our cozy space. But we didn’t stay home long since we discovered much to do and admire within this beguiling resort. Oh how our senses were tickled at every turn. We spent our first night whooping it up at the Owl Bar, a warm, western saloon of sorts that boasts great live music and tasty pub food. Best of all though it exudes a marvelous mountain panache that can only be achieved by the right mix of locals and visitors.

The ski hill at Sundance appeared more regional—at least on the busy Saturday we were there—consisting of lots of school kids from the nearby big city and its environs. They reminded me of the snowsports enthusiasts I encountered at the little ski area I grew up on in western Massachusetts. I felt totally rattled by them, mostly because these novice skiers and boarders crisscrossed the bunny slopes like rabbits darting about for food. Steve and I both agreed that it’s likely best to ski Sundance during the week, something that was confirmed when we left the resort the following Monday when we noticed that the parking lot was still empty after 10 a.m.,  This made us feel wistful about coming back on a weekday especially since Steve ended up rating Sundance as having the best expert terrain of all the resorts we tested throughout our trip. Steve had sampled most of these runs before I headed out on our Sundance ski day. I thought they were awesome, too, until I I found myself—mid-way down one of the runs—doing loopty-loops in a gully made even more disorienting by flat light. Here, I experienced my first meltdown of the season, but you have to have at least one on a ski vacation, don’t you?

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