Colorado Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Romance & Relationships Skiing & Snowboarding Spas The Rockies: Colorado Hotels & Lodging Music & Dance Restaurants Skiing & Snowboarding Spas The Rockies
by maribeth
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Skiing and Spa Going: Part One in Vail, Colorado
What? Don’t tell me you’re tired of hearing about skiing. While most die-hard skiers are still plowing through mashed potatoes and corn snow at ski areas such as A-Basin in Colorado and Mammoth Mountain in California, most of us ardent ski buffs have finally resigned ourselves to hanging up our skis for the season. But smart travelers should begin contemplating next season.
If any of you out there (devoted readers, for example) have been waiting with bated breath to read about my weekend with Steve (see Weekend Expectations blog below), I can tell you our time together scored exceedingly high marks. We, in fact, spent two weekends in a row together in April experiencing end-of-ski-season bliss. Plus we learned that spring is a great time to ski and spa go without dealing with the crowds. Bargains are excellent during this time as well. (The same, of course, holds true for early season in November and the first half of December.)
We zipped off to Vail after Telluride officially closed to experience the fun and fanfare of their closing weekend. A spring storm dumped impressive amounts of snow on the mountain beginning the Thursday before. Had it not been for Steve nursing an extremely sore back (from apparently having skied too hard the previous weekend in T-ride which had also benefited from an outstanding snowfall at its closing), I would have feared more powder day problems. Instead we carried on like two lovers on a weekend getaway where skiing and mountain fun entered into only part of the equation (wink, wink).
I had only been to Vail once before many years ago for my PSIA (Professional Ski Instructor of America) certification, so this time I was eager to discover it for real. Steve gladly toured me around Vail’s renowned back bowls and I was thrilled to find myself cruising on black terrain considerably softer than what we have in T-ride. (Of course I love our steeps but they do require more effort.) After just a few hours of skiing, however, Steve declared that his back had had enough. That was fine with me since by then I felt as though I had a good grasp of the mountain and looked forward to the day when I could return and really wear myself out at this world renowned resort.
This left us with time to explore Vail Village, a pedestrian-friendly assemblage of shops, restaurants, bars and places of lodging that truly made us feel like we were on vacation. One might look at this Bavarian-inspired hamlet as hokey (I have in the past), but it really does transport you to a faraway land and we jumped on for the ride. Steve, with his family ties to the Italian Alps, pointed out how authentic these alpine chalets really were in their construction and interpretation. This enchanted me even more, so I suggested we stop for a coffee and a strudel at Hotel-Gastof Gramshammer, one of the more charming wooden establishments in the area, founded in 1965 by Austrians Sheika and Pepi Gramshammer.
It was a good choice. We sat at their German beer garden terrace and then later discovered that this classic alpine establishment also housed two other restaurants, a particularly animated bar and hotel rooms above. I wasn’t sure whether I was more wooed by its charm or Steve’s attentiveness.
Faves
There’s nothing like someone providing firsthand recommendations for lodging and other travel services. It’s even better when those tips come from a travel writer.
Well, that travel writer is me! I’ve written four guidebooks on France and have traveled the world, so believe me when I say I’m very particular about where I choose to stay. A place has to have charm, warmth and a feel of its own. Luxury helps, too, but as long as a property possesses spirit and authenticity, then I’m apt to add it to my list as well. As far as the travel services are concerned, the product has to be top notch.
The below establishments and services now sponsor me in my endeavors. I discovered them first and made up my mind that these were the kind of travel suppliers I wanted to recommend to you, my dear reader. I do indeed consider them among my faves or favorites.
I encourage you to contact them directly for the best deals and feel free to mention BonjourColorado.com. Here’s an important travel tip: It’s a fallacy to think that you’re going to obtain the best deals on sites such as Expedia.com. Once again, it’s best to check out the property’s own site for the best rates and then even call them for a possible upgrade.
Happy travel planning!
COLORADO PROPERTIES
New Sheridan Hotel, Telluride
This Telluride landmark has served as the hub of T-ride for well more than a century. Definitely check out my story on this destination hotel here. It also includes reasons why Telluride is so great. I also mention the New Sheridan Hotel in Fall in Telluride: A Beautiful Time for Sightseeing and Winter Travel Planning, Filling in Nicely in Telluride: Snowstorm After Snowstorm, Colorado: A Stunning Place for Weddings, Grateful for Telluride and Telluride Ski Resort, June in the Rockies: A Gorgeous Time of the Year and Dealing with Altitude Issues at Our High Mountain Destinations. The terrific New Sheridan Chop House is reviewed in Favorite Telluride Restaurants. This stellar property and Ray Farnsworth, the New Sheridan’s GM, is featured in Telluride Tourism’s Top Dogs.
Mountain Lodge, Telluride
Stay at this handsome lodge to experience luxury mountain living in Telluride. (Most of the units and all of their high-end cabins boast fully-equipped kitchens.) Located in Telluride’s Mountain Village, Mountain Lodge Telluride also offers great ski in/ski out access. There’s mention of Mountain Lodge Telluride in the following posts: Night out in Mountain Village, Togethering in the Rockies, Telluride’s Beauty Boutiques, Three Men, Three Telluride Mountain Village Restaurants, Great Rocky Mountain Decks: Spectacular Views Year-Round, Filling in Nicely in Telluride: Snowstorm After Snowstorm, Great Fall Travel in the Rockies, Ski In/Ski Out to Great Snow in Colorado, Colorado: A Stunning Place for Weddings, Chef Bud Creates an Elevated Dining Experience at Mountain Lodge Telluride, Grateful for Telluride and Telluride Ski Resort and Dealing with Altitude Issues at Our High Mountain Destinations. Steve Togni, Mountain Lodge’s GM and my beau, is highlighted in many of these stories, most notably Telluride Tourism’s Top Dogs.
The Peaks Resort & Spa, Telluride
As one of the anchors of Telluride Mountain Village, locals and visitors alike enjoy experiencing The Peaks Resort & Spa year-round. I’m crazy about their spa and love the feel of their Palmyra Restaurant, a stunning showcase for panoramic views and fine culinary offerings. On a nice day—winter or summer—their expansive new deck is a must. Read about The Peaks at Telluride’s Ultra Luxe Mountain Spas, Spray Tanning: Bronzage in a Bottle, Great Rocky Mountain Decks: Spectacular Views Year-Round, Filling in Nicely in Telluride: Snowstorm After Snowstorm, Ski In/Ski Out to Great Snow in Colorado and Dipping, Dining and Viewing at The Peaks Resort & Spa.
Camel’s Garden, Telluride
If you’re looking to stay in the historic town of Telluride and are perhaps in search of a condo-type unit, I recommend the Camel’s Garden. Situated at the base of the gondola, you can’t beat its central location. And since this fresh-faced property also operates as a hotel, you enjoy all the amenities offered by a fine place of lodging including in-house breakfast, concierge service and more. Read more about this boutique hotel at Camel’s Garden: A Telluride Favorite and Ski In/Ski Out to Great Snow in Colorado.
Sheraton Steamboat Resort
There’s nothing like being right at the base of a ski mountain and at the Sheraton Steamboat Resort, that’s exactly where you’ll be. You can ski, hike and bike right out your door. Read Skiing Steamboat Powder and Bike Riding In and Around Our Beautiful Mountain Towns to find out what I have to say about Steamboat as a destination and this premier resort.
Redstone Inn, Redstone
Just fifty minutes outside of Aspen and nestled in some of the most unspoiled nature of Colorado, you’ll find the quaint town of Redstone with the Redstone Inn as its anchor. Read about this charming place of lodging in the stories Redstone Rendez-Vous and Bike Race Spectating, Colorado Touring, Book Promoting, Travel Adventures Galore Oh My.
Chipeta Sun Lodge, Ridgway
Conveniently located near Telluride and Ouray, Colorado, this Chipeta Sun Lodge provides the perfect base for experiencing the best of the San Juan Mountains. Chipeta also offers an affordable alternative to staying in Telluride and most of their units have been outfitted with kitchens. Be sure to check out Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa: Spirit of the the Southwest in the Rockies and Garden Love.
Gateway Canyons, Gateway
What kind of a retreat do you think would be created by the man who founded the Discovery Channel? A pretty, darn spectacular one, don’t you think? Gateway has become one of my favorite resorts in the West. Read what I have to say about it at Gateway Canyons: One Big Discovery, Going to Gateway, BBQ, Blues and Beauty at Gateway, Ferraris, Blues, Brews and the Rocky Mountains and Road Tripping in the Great American West.
Rochester Hotel, Durango
A wagon train of western movies were made in and around Durango, Colorado and the Rochester Hotel pays tribute to many of them. I love this hotel, one of the coziest outposts in the West! Read more (and listen to a podcast) about Durango, the San Juan Skyway and the Western Movie Culture of the Four Corners Region here. The Rochester is also highlighted in On the Trail of Western Movie-Making in Colorado and Utah and Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad: An American Treasure. Check out Sultry Summer Evenings at Durango’s Rochester Hotel to find out about some of their special events.
More Fine Colorado Hotels
For families visiting the lovely little mountain town of Ouray, I recommend Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs. Read about it at Our Ouray. You can also peruse my Colorado hotel category here.
UTAH PROPERTIES
Goulding’s Lodge, Monument Valley
The Four Corners area is about a two-hour drive from Telluride, Colorado, my home base. Just a couple of hours beyond that, you find yourself at one of the most spectacular sites in the United States, Monument Valley. This historic lodge, trading post and museum is a must. Read what I have to say about Monument Valley and Goulding’s Lodge at Touring the Southwest with My Parents, On the Trail of Western Movie-Making Culture, The Lone Ranger Showcases Monument Valley, Southwest Colorado and More, Telluride, Monument Valley and the Oscars and Road Tripping in the Great American West.
Hotel Monaco, Salt Lake City
The place to stay in SLC, you’re always guaranteed a fun time at this swanky hotel. Dogs love the Hotel Monaco Salt Lake City, too, as you can tell from my story Dogs on Vacation.
OTHER U.S. HOTELS
If you’re headed to Washington, D.C., be sure to experience—even just for a drink—The Fairfax at Embassy Row. I feature it and its renowned restaurant, The Jockey Club Restaurant & Lounge, in The Elegance of Paris in Our Nation’s Capital: The Fairfax at Embassy Row.
Check out my Hotel category for many other lovely establishments around the world.
MORE TRAVEL SUPPLIERS AND EVENTS
Telluride Ski & Golf
As a travel writer that lives in Telluride and more than moonlights as a ski instructor at the Telluride Ski Resort, I’ve posted a gazillion stories on this blog that highlight Telluride Ski & Golf. Here are just a handful of them: Grateful for Telluride and Telluride Ski Resort, Telluride, Forbes and Me, Girl Power Extraordinaire: Women from the Telluride Ski & Snowboard School, Part One, Skiing with Rock Stars: Schussing with Telluride’s Synchronized Ski Teams, Reflections on My Ten Years as a Ski Instructor, More Expert Ski and Snowboard Instruction and Fun in Telluride, Teaching, Training and Torchlighting with the Telluride Ski & Snowboard School, Telluride Ski Resort Opening Weekend: A Great Kickoff to the Season, Ski Fever, All in the Day of a Ski Instructor, Ski In/Ski Out to Great Snow in Colorado, Telluride Women’s Weeks 2015, Telluride Women’s Week: Skiing and Fun for the Ladies, Talking about Telluride Ski and Snowboard School, Why Telluride, Playing Tourist in Telluride, Snowboardcross World Cup: Telluride Goes International, Family Fun Facilitators. By now you should gather that I think a visit to Telluride, Colorado should be tops on your list.
Bootdoctors/Paragon Outdoors
As a ski instructor and outdoor enthusiast, you can bet I have favorite shops and outfitters here in Telluride. Bootdoctors/Paragon Outdoors, a beloved choice by locals and visitors alike, keeps us active types properly suited up and geared out all year long. And they actually guide us to the fun here in southwestern Colorado. Read my story Spring Skiing, Spring Shopping to find out how they got me hooked up with great skis. Check out Bootdoctors Offers Further Adventures and Bike Riding in and Around Our Beautiful Mountain Towns to hear about their summer doings. Read The Look on the Slopes: Early Ski Season 2013-2014 to find out about their fantastic array of fashions and Finding Happy Feet at Bootdoctors to learn about the magic they can work on your feet and Grateful for Telluride and the Telluride Ski Resort to find out how much they’re loved by us locals.
Telluride Blues & Brews Festival
You have to experience a Telluride festival at least once in your life. And if you’re like most people, once you take in one of our renowned gatherings in our pristine mountain setting, you’ll be back again for more. Telluride Blues & Brews Festival is one of the best, especially since it takes place during the golden season of late summer, usually the third weekend on September. Read Always on My Mind: Telluride Blues & Brews Festival and Willie Nelson, Telluride Blues & Brews Promises More Fun than Ever this Year, Film, Blues & Brews, Telluride Makes Saying Goodbye to Summer Easy and KOTO Broadcasts the Telluride Blues & Brews Festival to All. Listen to my interview with the founder of this festival at Steve Gumble Brings Us Telluride Blues & Brews and More.
au Château
What could be more dreamy than staying in the French countryside in a centuries-old château? You can find just the place suited to your taste and itinerary at au Château. Read what I have to say about this wonderful lodging experience at Oh Château Life!
Medjet Assist
Do not leave home without it, especially if you’re an active person! I’ve obtained a special 10% discount for BonjourColorado.com readers so if something not-so good happens to you while you’re away, you’ll be taken care of with much TLC. Click here to find out more and to sign up; note that prices have already been discounted for you by 10%. Read my story and listen to the podcast here.
Imperial Tours
Thinking about taking that once-in-a-lifetime trip to China? Or maybe you want to go back to this fascinating land to take a closer look at perhaps the gumdrop mountains of Guilin or the brave faces of the Terracotta Warriors. The main thing is to do it right and whether you’re interested in a private or group tour, you’re sure to do it in style with Imperial Tours. Check out my story Touring China: Imperial Allure. There you can also listen to a podcast that provides lots of information about travel to China. Read Imperial Shopping to China to find out about a special shopping trip.
Beauty Colorado Colorado Springs Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel: Beauty Colorado Colorado Springs Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel
by maribeth
6 comments
A Happy Ending to My Own Horror Story
Happy Halloween everyone! I hope it’s a fun one for you and your loved ones.
I’ve been out of touch the past couple of weeks, since I’ve been dealing with my own ghoulish happenings. Truly ghastly and yes, I felt like I was wearing a mask of sorts for a whole week. I looked like a monster and it seemed like I was living a nightmare.
Unlike most Halloween doings, this wasn’t fun at all. The whole dreadful experience did, however, force me to step back and be even more thankful for what I have in my life—my own good health and the people that love and support me every day. It also reinforced my feelings of compassion. I’ve always considered myself a caring and compassionate person yet now I’m even more so because I had a good taste of what it’s like to look like a freak.
By now you might be wondering what happened to me. Well, I had a terrible reaction to some medication that literally fried my face off from the inside out. My whole visage burned and swelled and itched and cracked and peeled like a moist riverbed dried up beneath the mid-day Mojave Desert sun. It hurt like hell; only large and regular doses of self medicating could make me somewhat comfortable. It was so unsightly that it made a child gape at me wide-eyed at the Medical Center and my dermatologist exclaim, “Wow, I’ve never seen such a reaction.” I did, however, feel an overflowing of compassion from folks at the pharmacy and other doctors’ offices which I frequented a lot that week because there was no easy fix. I truly sensed that people poured there heart out to me whether they said anything or not. My attempts at hiding behind the disguise of a pink fleece hoodie proved futile and after my third visit to the pharmacy, I just let it all hang out like a terribly over ripe peach dangling from the limb of a tree. At one point, I had to pop into a market for cat food and perhaps in an effort to reach out to me, the cashier kindly complimented me on my scarf.
I just wanted to lie on my couch and retreat into my own world, generously applying cold compresses and oil to my face every half hour while listening to Mozart and sipping wine.
Colorado Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Mountain Living Music & Dance Restaurants Telluride Travel Fun: 20 Years Colorado Hospitality Industry Hotels & Lodging Mountain Lodge Telluride Mountain Village Restaurants Steve Togni
by maribeth
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Celebrating Twenty Extraordinary Years at Mountain Lodge Telluride
In the winter of 2002, I visited Telluride for the first time. I was living in Pagosa Springs, Colorado then and although I was familiar with the grandeur of Aspen and Vail, I was awestruck by the massive log structures of Telluride Mountain Village. I checked into Mountain Lodge Telluride where I was immediately enraptured by its rustic mountain elegance. When I stepped into their Great Room, situated across from their front desk, my jaw dropped.
Reminiscent of the big gathering places of the celebrated lodges within our National Parks and also of the most renowned Great Camps of the Adirondack Mountains, the Mountain Lodge Great Room mirrors the majesty of our magnificent Rocky Mountains. The Great Room at Mountain Lodge Telluride comes with a spectacular panoramic view, one of the best in all of the Rockies.
Despite this striking beauty, the expansive space at that time was dead, completely soulless. There was a bar but it took some doing for the front desk clerk to rustle up someone to serve a couple of drinks. My travel companion and I were the only guests in this awe-inspiring space.
That was before Stefano (Steve) Togni arrived. He took over as general manager at Mountain Lodge Telluride in 2004, fresh off his position of Hotel/Rooms Division Manager at The Peaks. And not long after that, Steve began to shape this property into the vibrant and exciting place of lodging and dining it is today.
Full disclosure: Steve and I have been partnered for almost sixteen of the twenty years he has been at the Lodge, so I have been privy to much of the happenings there. As a serious travel writer and published author, however, I will refrain from boasting too much about Steve. But his accomplishments at this stellar Telluride property are worth touting, especially since he has decided to move on and take a break from the rigorous demands of the hospitality world in our busy mountain town. It’s time for him to recharge; yet before he takes his final bow at Mountain Lodge, I hope that many of you will join me in paying homage to this leading force within Telluride, a man who has given much to our community over these past two decades.
Twenty years: that’s an eternity in the hospitality industry where most senior level managers stay at a property an average of two to three years before moving on to another job. Steve began managing Mountain Lodge Telluride before Telluride, Colorado became known throughout the world as an “it” place to be. Prospect Bowl had recently opened and there was no significant summer tourism up on the mountain. You could still find plenty of parking spaces in town and Mountain Village.
Tourism in Telluride exploded within this period and finding workers has become increasingly more difficult. “What we do isn’t rocket science; finding employee housing is quantum physics,” says Steve Togni.
Blogging was the only real form of social media that existed twenty years ago and even that was just taking off. (That’s partly how we met.) Since then, evolving technologies, social media and customer review sites such as Trip Advisor, Yelp and Open Table have changed much within the hospitality industry. “A critical component of any successful sales and marketing plan today revolves around the strategic implementation of technology. It’s important to continue providing the tools and resources necessary for our team in order to evolve with the new technology,” he says.
And how hard do you think it was to keep a six-acre, full service, 140-room resort afloat during the Covid pandemic? Plus, there were more than one hundred employees to consider. “It was a brutal time,” Steve says. “The Lodge was shut down and I spent three months up in the boardroom pushing numbers and dealing with government agencies trying to figure out how to have the property survive and how to take care of our employees. In truth, I was envious of all those people that were able to stay home for three months.”
He and his team shepherded Telluride Mountain Lodge through that near-disastrous time.
Big hotels require big renovations. At Mountain Lodge Telluride, there were many large capital projects that required attention over the past two decades. At most large properties, these types of major works are undertaken by a broad base of corporate support teams. But at Mountain Lodge Telluride, it has been all hands on deck, directed and managed by Steve Togni. Within the past year, for example, the Lodge had to take on a multi-million dollar roof project when it became challenging to obtain insurance for their shingled roof. That work went on for five months without disrupting the influx of travels that are now the norm of Telluride’s busy summer travel season.
And what about that Great Room? Well, not long after Steve took over, he decided that such a beautiful room deserved a nice restaurant and bar, a convivial place where people could enjoy fine food and drink in a superlative setting. Born in Milan, Steve naturally felt inclined to contact Paolo Canclini, of Rustico and La Piazza fame. Together they created a kitchen (built from scratch!), a bona fide food and beverage plan and launched The View restaurant and bar. This fabulous space has had many iterations since then, often serving breakfast, lunch, dinner and après ski to folks whether they are guests at the hotel or not.
Indeed, whether sipping drinks poolside or delighting in an elegant meal inside by the immense stone fireplace, The View has become a happening spot year round. Locals and visitors alike appreciate it for a vibe that reflects much of the fun and free-spiritedness of Telluride.
This flair might not be much on display during one of Mountain Lodge’s elegant wedding receptions but if you’re able to attend one of their special events such as their Snow Dance, Electric Luau, a Fourth of July barbecue and pool party or a drag brunch, you’re immersed in many of the more fun-loving aspects of life in T-ride. Steve, the driving force behind most of these events, likes to have fun.
It takes a tremendous amount of energy, smarts and dedication to run a noteworthy lodging and dining establishment within a world class resort community. Here he has had to answer to homeowners (each of the Mountain Lodge units are individually-owned) as well as hotel and restaurant guests, while managing over one hundred employees. So he needs to play hard. Fortunately for many of us within the Telluride community, Steve has infused Mountain Lodge with much of his idea of fun.
Local band favorite Joint Point has played at Mountain Lodge about twice a year for the past ten years, and these parties are among the best in Telluride. Like at any good concert, dazzling light shows, tasty bites and drink specials are often an integral part of these happenings.
Steve Togni has, in fact, created a culture at Mountain Lodge that has catapulted it from just another big mountain property to something that’s soulful for guests and his hotel and restaurant workers alike. Sure, he has left his mark with little touches such as tie dye flags, illuminated crossed skis on the exterior that can be viewed from the gondola (X marks the spot) as well as a proliferation of blue LED lights that adorn the property’s trees and pool. (They were among the first in Telluride.) Mountain Lodge was also ahead of the curve by providing stunning reusable shopping bags to their guests that feature winter and summer views of the Lodge. They’ve become killer keepsakes that have made it to every corner of the world. They were also among the first to wrap their shuttle in these same gorgeous winter and summer scenes of the Lodge. And get this: their employee shuttle even once sported a flower power motif–much like the Scooby-doo van.
Early on, Steve made sure that the employee break room was dialed in and freshened up, since he knew that that could serve as the hub for forging bonds within the Mountain Lodge team. What started as weekly lunches furnished to Lodge employees later expanded to daily lunches all year long. Served up by The View restaurant, these lunches are most surely part of the reason Mountain Lodge employees feel nurtured, nourished and valued within their Mountain Lodge family. (It’s also a good way to lure employees back in for their shift on powder days.)
“The most essential and indispensable resource to our operation is our employee base; we operate with that as a principle tenet,” Steve adds.
Yes, from the Great Room to the employee break room to the elegant condo units that make up Mountain Lodge to many spots in between, Mountain Lodge Telluride exudes heart and soul, much in the image of their leader in chief, Steve Togni.
For over ten years, there was even a mascot of sorts, a cat in residence, named Mario, that Steve took in from the cold when he clearly had nowhere else to go. Mario has recently settled into the home of one of his beloved Mountain Lodge moms where he can live out his retirement in an especially tranquil setting. He had a good run of it at the Lodge and was the meeter and greater par excellence to many throughout most of his life.
Mario’s exit was the final green light that lead Steve to the decision to leave the Lodge as well.
Our kitties and I will certainly enjoy having him around more. I doubt he’ll be curling up on the couch much but he likely will be doing some extra laps on Gold Hill, enjoying some well-deserved time off.
Steve invites the whole community to help him celebrate a good time in Telluride at his Fare Steve Well sendoff party at Mountain Lodge on Thursday, October 3 at 6pm. Joint Point will be jamming, so put on your dancing shoes. Steve may even join them for a riff or two. Drink and food specials guaranteed, very much along an Oktoberfest theme. In typical Togni fashion, a good time will surely be had by one and all.
Before that celebration, however, tune into Travel Fun, my talk radio show on KOTO just after noon on Thursday, September 26 for a live interview with Steve. Call up to say hi, ask questions and show support. Anyone who makes a $30. donation to KOTO will automatically be entered into my private drawing for a chance to win a very special prize. Just click on donate and be sure to choose Travel Fun as your favorite program.
For more stories that feature Steve Togni and Mountain Lodge Telluride, type in Steve or Mountain Lodge Telluride into the search in this blog and you’ll pull up all kinds of stories from the past fifteen plus years.
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by maribeth
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Manchester Memories: Nostalgic About Fall Foliage Trips with Mom
I grew up with five brothers and no sisters. My parents had four boys in a row, then me and many years later another boy. With this configuration, I was destined to be either a tomboy or a girly-girl. My mom was a little of both. But since she finally had her long-awaited daughter, she wanted to make sure I became as much of a little lady as possible. And what’s one of the most feminine pastimes? Most would agree that shopping and going out for lunch rank high in that category. Yes indeed, a tremendous amount of female bonding takes place over browsing the boutiques and chatting about life over a delicious lunch of quiche and salad.
We lived in Troy, New York, just fifty minutes from Bennington, Vermont, close to the New York/Vermont border. Manchester is less than a half hour from there, so in all it would be about an hour and fifteen-minute trip. As soon as we left our house and headed east we plunged into delightful countryside, passing small family farms and traversing quaint villages as rural upstate New York morphed into bucolic Vermont. Rolling through once verdant landscapes kissed by fall’s golden sun and chilly nights, we delighted in viewing an artist’s palette of every variation of red, yellow, burnt umber, sepia and chartreuse. The brush, fields, flowers and trees all revealed their autumn splendor.
As if this festival of colors was not enough, most every house and business was done up with often fabulous displays of pumpkins, gourds, Indian corn (now known as Ornamental corn), cornstalks and sometimes a smattering of ghosts. Here the scarecrows were authentically clad and many had also served a purpose in the fields where crops had been freshly harvested. Today, these colloquial scenes have been souped up with giant plastic blowups in the form of spiders, ghouls and other representations of today’s exuberance over Halloween.
Yet the sincerity of these Vermonters remains true; fall is a time of sensory celebration. As many in the world know, autumn in Vermont stirs all of the senses.
Sure, the traffic through these country roads and towns has increased over the years. But when you’re on a fall foliage tour, leaf peepers don’t care much. That was the case for Mom and me when we had encountered a few jam ups some years back. Those slowdowns provided us with the opportunity to take a closer look because driving to Manchester meant enjoying the sites and scenery along the way. One could take a week going to Manchester from the capital district area of New York, a route followed by many New Yorkers, including those coming up from the city.
Peppered with antique shops, farm stands, all kinds of specialty shops and places to enjoy a bite, this near-famous Route 7 could easily be considered one of the top shopping and touring thoroughfares of New England.
When Mom and I were making Manchester our final destination, we’d typically only allow ourselves to stop at a handful of spots because we wanted to save a chunk of time for this oh-so happening Vermont town. Our goal would often be to arrive at The Equinox, an inn that has existed since 1769. Spotting the tall and stately columns in the front of the inn signaled that we were stepping back in time. Lunch within this bastion of tradition was always very special. Today, known as The Equinox Golf Resort & Spa, this historic property continues to evolve and is now a destination hotel and a Manchester landmark more so than ever.
After lunch we’d mog around the center of Manchester, popping in and out of shops to our heart’s content. By 1977, Mother Myrick’s also rose to the top of our list of must-sees in Manchester. This confectionery began as a small fudge shop and now ranks as a first-class purveyor of all kinds of yummy sweets, including baked goods. People from all over the country order from their online boutique. Mom’s favorite was their buttercrunch, a handmade toffee made with Cabot Creamery butter. So many memories are wrapped up in foods. I’ll have to procure some for myself soon. Is candy a food?
Northshire Bookstore also opened during this era in an historic building that operated as an inn for over a century. One of the best-known small independent booksellers in the country, Northshire Bookstore has grown throughout the decades both in size (10,000 feet) and stature. Browsing here offers a delightful experience. In addition to being a general bookstore, they also showcase a curated selection of magazines, cards, stationery and all kinds of Vermont-made goods from comestibles to crafts. They, too, have a strong online presence and their author’s events are first-rate.
We would usually leave the town center at a reasonable hour to save lots of time at the now defunct Jelly Mill, a huge old barn filled from the floor boards to the beams with an immense selection of gift items. Seeing this beloved establishment close its doors after so many years was sad but thankfully its disappearance allowed smaller boutiques to shine. Manchester Woodcraft and Above All Vermont are a couple of the shops that make this lovely Vermont town worth the trip.
As time went on and the influx of travelers to Vermont’s Green Mountains grew, so did the shopping scene in Manchester. By the eighties, outlet shopping had become big here and soon Mom and I were spending less time at lunch and more time scouring the discount stores. Favorites outlets have long been Pendleton (for gorgeous woolens), Marimekko (for colorful prints), Le Creuset (for super sturdy cookware from France) and Armani (for fabulous Italian fashions).
We’d sometimes stop into the Orvis store to pick up Christmas gifts for the brothers that liked to fish. (The Orvis family, who once occupied a wing of The Equinox, founded this esteemed company in Manchester in 1856. Known as a world leader in fly fishing, their goods embody the spirit of the Vermont way of life. So it’s only fitting that you’ll find two Orvis stores here, the main one and an outlet.)
Mom and I would pull into our garage past dark with a car stuffed with a prized selection of goods and gifts. Typically we’d only bring the Vermont cheeses, sausages, maple syrup, cider, apples, cider donuts and other goodies into the house. The rest would be stashed away for our own pleasure or for future gift giving to others. Either way, all that we purchased had so much more meaning because of the manner in which we did our shopping and the charming places where our treasures were found.
These trips with Mom were repeated year after year in the fall as well as during other seasons. They left an imprint on me so indelible that I developed an aversion to big cookie-cutter stores. No, I needed to shop in places full of character and charm, even if I only picked up a thing or two.
From Vermont Country Stores to Paris Big Names
With these seeds planted, I eventually founded a shopping service in Paris, France called Chic Promenade. During this time in my life, I organized visits behind-the-scenes to the big names, so that people could learn the story of revered French houses such as Dior, Nina Ricci, Hermès, Louis Vuitton and many others. Chic Promenade also helped visitors discover the lesser-known boutiques of Paris, establishments full of history and tradition that provided a unique experience as soon as you passed through their door.
Before I even conducted my first tour, I began to write about these boutiques as well as the special places of interest, neighborhoods, restaurants, hotels, spas, tea salons and wine bars you’d want to incorporate into all kinds of shopping and touring excursions. In all, I have authored four books on shopping and touring in Paris and the French provinces.
It was a proud day when Mom and I went to Northshire Bookstore for my author’s presentation of one of these books. My passion for shopping and touring in Vermont had come full circle.
Thank you Manchester. Thank you Vermont. Thank you Mom. Merci to all for providing me with such inspiration. I’m sure you’ll find your own form of je ne sais quoi in Vermont when you go as well.
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by maribeth
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Keeping that Holiday Spirit Going
I say pooh to the people that throw out their Christmas tree by New Year’s. I keep most of my decorations up throughout January. I put away the santas, elves and baby Jesus by mid January but most–including Christmas ornaments and stockings–remain up through the end of the month. And as for anything festive in red and green, I typically keep that up until the end of the ski season–or just before Easter depending on what comes first. That’s what they do in the Alps. That’s what they do in many mountain locales, Telluride included. Hey, when you have a snowy scene outside, twinkling lights and garlands add extra sparkle to many winter wonderland settings.
And boy have we had snow! After a stellar holiday season with primo ski conditions, the cold and the snow have just kept on coming. With over fifteen feet of the fluffy white stuff so far this year, the skiing in Telluride–in all of Colorado, in fact–has been fantastic. To say we have been well served by the snow gods, is an understatement.
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by maribeth
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Finding Serenity at Tea Island Resort in Lake George
As I wrote in A Cancer Journey of Heartbreak, Love, Resilience and Hope, these have been trying times. But there’s nothing like changing up your surroundings to gain a better outlook on a situation. Or even better, to forget about your problems–even for one brief shining moment–all together. I find this easiest to do in nature, in a spectacular setting such as the one that seizes all your senses, one amply provided at Lake George, New York in the Adirondacks.
Seeking solace at Lake George is not a new concept to me because for over forty years my family owned a house on this pristine body of water. There’s something very cleansing about her silky waters whether you’re swimming in them, floating on them or gazing at them from the shore; they sooth with a penetrating calm. Sitting on her shores listening to the water lap up onto a beach, a seawall or a dock is to me one of the most transcending sounds I know.
Ever since the family home was sold a couple of years ago, I’ve enjoyed experiencing this “Queen of American Lakes” from different vantage points. I love staying in hotels and have been delighted to find that there are many good ones on Lake George.