Art & Culture Being Green Music & Dance Telluride: Art & Culture Being Green Music & Dance Telluride Telluride Festivals
by maribeth
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Phish in Telluride: The Day After the Day After
Phish Phans Philing into Telluride Town Park
Well, we did it. Our little mountain town has survived—very well in fact—the invasion of some 10,000 Phish fans. Aside from a smattering of arrests (mostly drug-related), an excess of garbage (which has already been expediently cleaned up) and a few trampled flower beds, most appears pretty much back to normal.
Sure, here in T-ride we’re accustomed to putting on big festivals, big doings that see the population of our town nearly quadruple in less than forty-eight hours. But this was Phish, the widely popular jam band that enjoys a spectacular following everywhere they go. Even Phish fans have to obtain concert tickets through a carefully orchestrated lottery; their shows consistently sell out in record time and those that make it to the event are die-hards, devoted followers that think nothing about crisscrossing the country to take in a show. Especially if it’s in a venue as stunning as Telluride’s Town Park, a setting as celebrated as the numerous artists that have played there.
Psyched to See the Show
My first glimpse of dedicated Phish fans en masse occurred late Sunday afternoon, the last day of the Telluride Jazz Festival. The crowd more than doubled, shifting from mountain casual to urban hippie as Phish fans poured into this mellow gathering in Telluride Town Park. I knew already that despite an abundance of tie dye and weed, these folks came from every ilk, every socioeconomic background, every corner of the U.S. Already I suspected many of them to be closet hippies, the kind of people that wore suits and serious expressions most days to work yet their real drug of choice was attending a Phish concert, an enviable outlet that leaves even the most seasoned concert goer in awe.
That’s just how I felt Tuesday night, the second night of Phish’s two-day stint in T-ride. (I had skipped Monday’s show and, in fact, decided only Tuesday morning to attend the second when my boyfriend, Steve, threw a ticket my way. The whole town was buzzing about the event, so how could I stay home?)
It was a gorgeous evening, one of the prettiest of the summer, perfect for baring skin and parading about in all manner of costume-y outfits. And of those there were many. From sequins to tinsel, feathers to beads, face paintings to piercings and tattoos, the entire scene provided some of the best people watching of any concert I’ve attended.
And as the puffy clouds stretched across orangey-pink bands in the faded blue jean sky, the sun set out far beyond our cathedral canyon. My hunny and I remarked about the number of people turning to this gorgeous vision, gazing skyward in amazement, snapping pictures on cell phones and cameras, craning their necks to take in the full glory of this Kodachrome moment.
Our Cathedral Canyon
“I think they’re trying to figure out how much of what they see is real or a hallucination,” my hunny quipped.
Indeed I had never seen so many trip-y looking people. A thick cloud of smoke clung to the air and the smell of pot, tobacco and clove cigarettes permeated the entire park as people swayed and bobbed to the pulsating beat of the music. The crowd roared from the minute Phish took to the stage, mouthed almost every word of every song and communed with one and other as though they were at a massive neighborhood block party (albeit a pretty out-there one). And although the vibe felt relatively mellow, the enthusiasm exhibited among these hardcore fans reverberates through the mob as fast as a rumor spreads that this iconic jam band is coming to town.
“I can’t believe this is all legal,” I commented to my hunny.
“Most of it isn’t,” he replied.
Lighting Up
Really, in all the concerts I’ve ever attended—from my first biggies in Saratoga Springs (SPAC) which included Fleetwood Mac to Grateful Dead in Boston during my college years to the Rolling Stones and Police in Paris to the countless in Telluride including Dylan—never had I taken in such a scene. Still though, everyone seemed to be in possession of themselves. This must have been what Woodstock was like, I thought to myself. I didn’t know a single song but I had fun, I felt glad to take in such a display.
The mood became more uproarious after the set break when the band broke out with Party Time, a riotous song which prompted fans to toss massive quantities of glow sticks and rings into the audience. Although this jolly show of neon further enhanced the sensational lighting effects of the show, I couldn’t get past how awful it was to mindlessly throw all these toxic, plastic vials about. Clearly a lot of Phish fans lack some real environmental awareness. I had never seen this happen anywhere before, especially not in T-ride. (And if they ever come back here, I doubt they’ll repeat this offense again.)
I actually learned yesterday on the local news that cleaning up from these shows entailed the biggest effort ever. Fortunately we have crews that know how to restore our park to one of the most pristine public places in the country. They combed the last blades of grass for the pesky debris that remained including cherry pits, cigarette butts and bottle caps. Phish fans have a lot to learn from our festivarians, especially from the Telluride Bluegrass devotees, a crowd that’s well versed in protecting the environment. But hey, they’ve been coming to our beautiful mountain town for nearly four decades.
All things considered, you did good Phish. Just next time, tell your Phans to leave the glow sticks at home and to better pick up after themselves. Oh, and maybe you could turn the music down a little. That was the loudest concert I ever attended and it feels like my ears are still ringing. Liked the improv though. And, of course, the super-friendly, groovy, free-spirited people.
Phish Jamming on Telluride Town Park Stage
Thank you to Merrick Chase, from Telluride Photography, for the above images. To view the entire two days of Phish in Telluride (and more!), visit the Telluride Photography Web site and blog.
For more on Telluride festivals, read Summer in Telluride: A Sea of Festivals and More.
Hotels & Lodging Spas The Rockies: Hotels & Lodging Spas The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on A Pristine Pool Experience in Avon/Beaver Creek
A Pristine Pool Experience in Avon/Beaver Creek
The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa Pool
Perfect pool days can be few and far between here in the Rockies since July and August bring monsoonal rains and impressive thunder and lightening storms that can force the heartiest souls indoors. Thankfully this happens mostly in the afternoon and not typically every day. (The past couple of weeks in southwestern Colorado, however, have been particularly dreary.)
So when you plan a day to lounge poolside (and who doesn’t love to do that in the summer?), I suggest you choose a most promising place. This means a drop-dead gorgeous pool with a grand pool deck, great scenery, ultra comfy lounge chairs, expansive umbrellas for when the sun becomes too strong (or even to hide beneath in case of a passing shower) and excellent poolside food and drinks. Friendly service from the pool and wait staff goes a long way, too. Relaxation is your number one priority, so you don’t want to be left hanging looking for more ice for your beverage or a rubbery plastic noodle upon which to float. You’ll find all this and more at The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain.
I discovered this repository of recreation last spring and yearned to come back and enjoy it with my hunny on a sultry summer’s day. That’s exactly what we did on a picture-perfect day a few weeks ago. Together we knocked out our laps in this property’s glorious, saline-filled pool and then enjoyed a delicious lunch served poolside from Avondale, the hotel’s signature restaurant. I was bold enough to order one of their special cocktails, a fresh-squeezed lemonade made with house-infused berry Vodka while my boyfriend savored a perfectly chilled Margarita. Needless-to-say the rest of the afternoon passed seamlessly. We were glad to have gotten our workout in early on.
Perhaps the only regret we shared was that it was too hot to venture into one of the resort’s infinity hot tubs (although some people were clearly enjoying these stunning lobster pots). I guess those amenities in and of themselves give you good reason to come here on a cloudy day.
The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at Beaver Creek offers day pool passes to non-hotel guests at a cost of $40 per day per person. This entitles you to one group fitness class at The Riverfront Club. You may procure a week-long pass for $125. which entitles you to attend three fitness classes. Or you may indulge in a spa treatment and benefit from the use of the pool and gym facilities gratis.
Read more about The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties.
Cycling French Life: Cycling French Life
by maribeth
Comments Off on From Girly-Girl to Tour Aficionado
From Girly-Girl to Tour Aficionado
Frenchified Tour Follower in T-ride
It’s been just over a week now that the Tour de France rolled into Paris on its final stage. If you’re at all like me, you may be feeling a bit of Tour withdrawal. Fortunately I’m in the throes of writing a book, a romantic adventure set in France (mais oui!), that also highlights the Tour de France. This way I’m on my bike and thinking about the dazzling peloton crisscrossing France most days, at least in my mind. So my Tour continues.
If you’ve read some of the recent posts in this blog, you may be wondering how such a super feminine gal became so hooked on this major sporting event. Well here’s the backstory.
I grew up with five brothers and no sisters. This meant I was destined to be either a tomboy or a priss. I became the latter. I learned French, how to tie a scarf and how to fix myself up with little visible effort put forth very early on. Eleven years of living in Paris followed. The die was cast, I had become a femme du monde of sorts, a well-traveled woman who valued the elegance and refinement a life in France has to offer.
Sports had little to do with my Parisian world; like most French women, I stayed in shape from all the walking I did in the French capital and by minimizing my portion sizes. The idea of watching any kind of a sporting event in person or on T.V. was considered by my then French husband (of noble descent) something for the masses. (Tuning into Rolland Garros, or the French Open, was acceptable, but anything else was for the most part considered plouc or hillbilly-like.)
Then I moved back to the States, discovered the thrill of road riding and met a super cyclist. I traded out my airy summer skirts and tops for an array of slick cycling jerseys and shorts, the same “silly” outfits I had seen many a Frenchmen squeezed into on Sunday rides in the French countryside.
I brought my bicycle and my American boyfriend on a trip to France and together we pedaled through the rich farmlands, the verdant valleys, the historic hilltop villages and the lush vineyards of my beloved adopted country that I had come to know so well. Yet from the seat of a bicycle I was able to embrace this glorious land in a much different way. My senses felt totally imbued with wonder and satisfaction as I crossed France’s vast fields of sunflowers, its neat rows of lavender, its bunches of grapes hanging from the vine, its Monet-esque meadows dotted with red dabbles of poppies. I readily encountered people as I passed through their villages, towns and hamlets at the tranquil pace I maintained cruising along on my bike.
Tuning into the Tour de France on T.V. seemed like a logical next step. By now I had come to know a fair amount about cycling: I understood that the sport required as much of a team effort as an individual achievement, I realized there was a certain hierarchy to be respected on each team and within the peloton and that it took great talent and lots of experience for one of those “young bucks” to become a top racer.
My American guy coached me about the sport both on and off the bike and I came to consider cycling one of the most demanding athletic feats on the planet. To me, the Tour de France, the grueling three-week bike race that takes place every July in France, seems like Wimbledon, the World Cup of Soccer and the Olympics all combined. Its international flavor also rivals the worldwide appeal of these other renowned sporting events and in the case of the Tour, the organizers put on a show that’s moved to some twenty different locales both in France and in bordering countries every day of the competition.
Enough of this jock talk. I’m a girly-girl, albeit a fairly sophisticated one. You can bet it’s the Tour’s pageantry, the awe-inspiring scenery, the beauty of the cyclists in their vibrant jerseys on their shiny, candy-colored bikes that thrill me the most. Seeing the peloton blow across vast stretches of rural France like a bright swath of Pierre Frey fabric flapping in the wind leaves me breathless. Then on the last day when they descend on Paris like a swarm of bees searching for a hive, I feel my heart quicken, my excitement mount as though I was seeing the City of Light for the first time.
All the years I lived in France, I never attended the final stage of the Tour de France on the Champs-Elysées. Ça ne se fait pas, or that’s not done, was the message that was conveyed to me by my very proper Frenchman. I never sought to explore the event on my own.
It took a move back to the States and a different perspective for that to happen. Here it’s somehow easier for me to be a fan of the Tour de France. It doesn’t mean I have to give up my girly-girl side either.
As I sit here and weave my impressions of this extraordinary event into my story, I replay the Tour’s excitement and pageantry over and over in my head. If you’re a Tour fan, I’m sure you’re doing some of that, too.
Relive Past Tours
Graham Watson, renowned photographer of the Tour de France for over thirty years, chatted with me in a Travel Fun interview. Hope you’ll take some time to listen to our conversation and/or read the story (and see some of his stunning photos)!
Beauty Colorado Fashion & Style Girl Talk Mountain Living Shopping Telluride The Rockies: Beauty Colorado Fashion & Style Girl Talk Mountain Living Shopping Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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Mountain Glam
Rita Styling a Queen B
We’re in the throes of monsoon season right now and this year the rains seem to be bigger than ever. The sun shines brightly most mornings but the clouds move in in the afternoon and when that happens, you better be back from your hike by then. Or else, ka boom!
Yes, most do hike or bike here in Colorado, visitors included. And in the winter we ski. It really is all about the great outdoors. Don’t you know that Coloradans are the fittest people in the country?
But don’t let all this outdoor life fool you. Many of the women here—especially in our smart mountain towns—are incredibly sophisticated and know how to pull off casual chic with (seemingly) the utmost of ease. Like in France, the look here is totally au naturel. The trick, however, is that it takes just the right approach to achieve a fresh-faced natural look, especially when the air is so dry that crevices as big as a mountain ravine can easily form on your face. As for hair, you need to find a cut that accommodates limp and lifeless because without much humidity, you can bet your coif isn’t going to boast much bounce.
And how do you feel about hat hair? Now, that’s clearly a place French women don’t want to go. No matter how cold it is outside, most French women (actually men, too) don’t dare mess up their hairstyles by wearing a hat, especially a snug-fitting knit one, pretty much the only type that will truly keep you warm. Stylish chapeaux are still quite acceptable yet few of them provide any real warmth. Here in Colorado we suffer from hat hair practically year-round. (It’s not unusual to wear a down jacket and a knit hat on a summer’s night. Few sundresses and sandals after sundown unless you pile on a plush fleece.)
We could easily look like a bunch of tired, flat-haired mountain women if we didn’t learn how to combat the elements with our best defense: a good hair cut and color and dewy makeup. Like everyone else, I sometimes get stuck in a rut and find myself doing my hair and makeup pretty much the same way I’ve done it for decades. This is why I occasionally mix it up, try a different stylist and then even have my makeup professionally applied, all out of necessity and fun.
I was carried through the winter by a color and cut I received from Kat at The Peaks Resort & Spa Salon here in Telluride. She deftly cut my short to mid-length hair in cascading layers so that it would fluff around my face, hat on or off. We went dark with the color since my hair gets so bleached out on the slopes in the winter. (You want to be sure to have nice tufts of hair sticking out of your hat to frame your face, but boy do they get damaged.)
We completed my re-do with a makeup application that as Kat said, “Looked as though we had made unnoticeable efforts toward beauty.” Truly I glowed and I was not surprised to learn that the Jane Iredale makeup she used is entirely mineral based since it made my skin feel silky smooth. It also rendered my face nearly flawless! This makeup redefines the expression “keep it simple” since it’s a foundation, concealer, powder and sunscreen all in one. Quench and sunscreen? That’s pretty hard to find, particularly in a palette of such natural colors. What a great high altitude brand.
Jane Iredale's Earthy Tones
Almost unbelievably, that cut and color carried me through until the end of ski season when I finally paid a visit to Queen B Salon in Aspen. With the motto “Every Woman a Queen,” I felt right at home. Rita, the owner, an attractive woman of un certain age, has undoubtedly seen a few queen bees in the forty-five years she’s been doing hair. But why not indulge us? And here, amongst an extraordinary collection of tiaras, beauteous baubles and other fun girly goods, that’s exactly what Rita does. Plus she knows how to do hair. She gave me a color and cut that got rid of my chewed up ends from ski season and transformed me into a more style-y babe. She decided to go with an edgy look, flat ironed my hair and smoothed out the ends with oil. (Now that’s a woman who knows the challenges of a dry climate.) I bought my first flat iron here and chuckled to myself that I can get this effect by donning a ski cap for an hour although unfortunately that doesn’t guarantee even flat distribution from end to end.
“Any particular look right now in Aspen?” I asked Rita.
“Most women have long hair,” she responded. “Blond. It gets really boring.”
I looked around the room and spotted a supply of hair extensions, hair pieces and clips. Rita explained that all the add-ons were made of natural hair of the finest quality. Mostly blond of course. I’m an anomaly here in the Rockies, I suppose.
“The problem with American men is that they’re so attached to long hair. They want all their women to look like cheerleaders,” Rita continued.
Clearly I had become Europeanized with my brunette bob.
I doubt her complaints were heartfelt though since this so-called ingenue look surely keeps her business churning. I began to think of all the highlights and hair extensions required to achieve that natural, outdoorsy look so prized in the mountains. Add to that the already excessive need for conditioning treatments and a variety of other potions and formulas, and you begin to understand that it takes beaucoup bucks to become naturally beautiful in the Rockies.
Next stop: The Cos Bar, the place to shop for makeup and beauty products in Aspen. It’s perhaps the best place in Colorado. Located in some thirteen chichi destinations across the U.S., Cos Bar actually originated in Aspen in 1976. Indeed this glam emporium reminds me of the many high-styled parfumeries you find throughout France where you can pick up everything from a bottle of Chanel No. 5 to a tube of Dior lipstick.
I settled in for a full makeup application. (Typically the girls here only make you up partially, let’s say to try out a particular look on your eyes. But I asked for the works. Hey, it was almost off season.) I walked out with a luscious, lightly made up look. For best results, pick up a Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, one of Cos Bar’s bestsellers, Aspenites’ secret weapon that comes in eight shades. If you’re looking for a more striking look for evening, you’ll also find it here since the ladies in this town get pretty dolled up once the sun goes down.
So here I am now, back in my living room, sitting on my couch with my MacAir on my lap, writing. I still don’t understand why my skin and hair don’t feel softer with all these monsoonal rains. The humidity is at 40%, but I suspect that pales to what saturates the rest of the country these days. My tan is fading so fast that soon I’ll look like a mountain dumpling. I’m contemplating a trip to The Peaks for a spray tan. Like a good mountain spa, they know how to give you a natural summer radiance. I’m also thinking the sales should be pretty good in their Spa Boutique right now. They always have sales actually—on the best of products.
I’ve just realized that I’ve lived good chunks of my life in two lands fairly obsessed with beauty: France and the Rocky Mountains. You wouldn’t guess that of the latter but believe me, looking good is pretty important here. Being tanned and fit is part of the way of life in Colorado. And it’s no secret you must have the right hair and make up to go with this look. If you don’t, you look like a tourist. And no one wants to look like that, even if you are one. Don’t you agree?
The Peaks Resort & Spa, 136 Country Club Drive, Telluride, 800-772-5482, ThePeaksResort.com/spa
Queen B Salon, 112 South Mill Street, Aspen, 970-920-4300, QueenBSalon.com
The Cos Bar, 309 South Galena Street, Aspen, 970-925-6249, CosBar.com
The Peaks Spa Boutique
My number #1 make up tip: Do not wear make up when you’re skiing, hiking, biking or doing anything else in the great Rocky Mountains. If you do, you’ll look completely out-of-place. Tinted moisturizer (and sunscreen) as well as lip gloss on these athletic occasions are more than O.K. If you’re like me, you may want to cheat by leaving your mascara and liner on from the night before. A little smudged eye enhancement not only looks natural, but oh-so sexy, too. We are after all resourceful here in the mountains.
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Rockies: Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on The Penrose Room: Colorado’s Pièce de Résistance
The Penrose Room: Colorado’s Pièce de Résistance
Penrose Sculpture
To me, any connection between France and Colorado captures my attention tenfold. I’m passionate about both and you can tell from reading this blog that the gallic land and the Rocky Mountain state often serve as points of reference in my stories. I love the contrasts in the striking natural and manmade beauty between the two and I especially delight in showing that rich cultural and gastronomic offerings can be enjoyed both in the Old World and in the rugged corners of the American West. When the two come together, it’s truly magnifique!
The Broadmoor
A fine example of a perfect marriage of French savoir faire and American tradition may currently be experienced at the Penrose Room, the premiere restaurant of The Broadmoor, located in Colorado Springs, Colorado. For over ninety years this Grande Dame of the Rockies has distinguished itself as one of the finest resorts in the world and just this past year its top restaurant achieved five-star, five-diamond status. The Penrose Room now enjoys the distinction of the only Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobile Travel Guide) five-star restaurant in Colorado. Now that’s what I call putting Colorado on the map, at least in terms of food and wine. Only about twenty restaurants claim this standing in the U.S. including Charlie Trotter’s, Le Bernardin and The Inn at Little Washington, to name a few.
It should come as no surprise that the man behind this success is French, another great talent from across the pond that has learned how to respond to an increasingly discerning American diner and the demands that go with a big job at a big resort. Zee man is Bertrand Bouquin, Executive Chef of Penrose Room as well as Summit, another one of The Broadmoor’s fine restaurants.
Chef Bertrand Bouquin at Home in Colorado
I first met Bertrand a few years ago and was instantly impressed with his enthusiasm and dynamisme, an energy that he clearly brings to the dining experience at the Penrose Room where tradition and innovation reign supreme. Tableside service for the preparation of such classics as Caesar salad, Dover sole, cherries jubilee and other beloved dishes is still carried out with great elegance and skill. But you’ll also delight in an inventive cuisine that often showcases fine regional products accented with favorite French flavors. I was thrilled, for example, with my Tenderloin of Colorado Lamb, a rouleaux of succulent meat enhanced with wonderful saveurs of Provence. My hunny Steve, with whom I was lucky enough to share such a memorable feast, regaled in a Fresh Water Striped Bass with Morels.
From amuse bouche to the vanilla tuile that accompanied our dessert, we were utterly enchanted by our evening here. For me, experiencing a restaurant of this caliber is always part gastronomic adventure, part Broadway show. Yes, the entertainment value of such a memorable meal counts a lot, even—or should I say, especially—when the service is totally unobtrusive as is the case at the Penrose Room. I remember every detail from the little pillow propped up behind my back from the moment I sat down to the china being expeditiously removed from the heavy, gold damask tablecloth after the completion of each course. Everyone seemed to be in high spirits as I looked around the room. Truly ebullient. And how could you not? A jazz trio and vocalist kept the mood light and bubbly, just enough so that you couldn’t possibly take this temple of haute cuisine too seriously.
Steve and I held off until that delightful pause between main course and dessert before approaching the large dance floor that clearly has brought so much joy to peoples’ lives in this midnight blue dining room over the years. Once unleashed, however, we were thrilled to swing and sway beneath the immense crystal chandelier to the tunes of Norah Jones, Eric Clapton and Van Morrison before regaining our place at our table. Truly a scene from a movie, I thought. And it wasn’t an old, fuddy-duddy one either. From the pictures of the Penrose Room I saw ahead of time, I was fearful of the ambiance being a little too stiff and formal for our taste. Yet that was truly not the case.
Perfectly Penrose
I may be biased but I couldn’t help thinking that much of the attraction of this renowned restaurant could be attributed to a distinctive French flair. A certain panache, perhaps that same special something that pushed the Penrose Room into such an elite five-star group. I thought this as I witnessed the sun setting over the magnificent peaks of the Rocky Mountains way out beyond the dramatic decor of this grand dining room. Yes, of course, there’s an undeniable Colorado flavor as well.
Go to Wining and Dining in the Rockies to read more about Chef Bertrand Bouquin.
Art & Culture Mountain Living Music & Dance Shopping The Rockies: Art & Culture Mountain Living Music & Dance Shopping The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes
Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes
Upper Alpine Pools and Aspen Trees at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens
Our mountain meadows and towns blossom into wondrous playgrounds almost as soon as the snow melts here in the Rockies.
It’s not always easy, however, to hike up to high alpine pastures to marvel at our summertime display of wildflowers. Even if we do, there’s little chance we could delight in the beauty of the mountain flora while being serenaded by a world-class orchestra. Yet this midsummer scenario is possible in the city of Vail.
BFAG Alpine Rock Garden
Such was the case one morning recently when I strolled into the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens, a carefully crafted celebration of the beauty and diversity of alpine flora, open daily from sunrise to sunset, from snowmelt to snowfall, for all to see. Experiencing the gentle waterfalls, alpine ponds and rock gardens of this colorful site would have pleased me immensely on its own. But lucky me. Both times I meandered through these gardens and the nearby trails of Ford Park, I was wooed by the sound of music, the sound of the Philadelphia Orchestra to be exact. The butterflies—along with my step—appeared to bounce sprightly from flower bed to flower bed with each new stanza.
I quickly learned that the orchestra was rehearsing in the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, a marvelous outdoor venue, located next to the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. This little prelude prompted me to rearrange my schedule in order to attend an evening performance, one of many musical events put on by the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival through August 3rd.
I traded my sportswear and flip flops for a flouncy skirt and top and went hand in hand to the concert with my hunny who was also smartly dressed. And thank goodness we were. What a chic congregation! We both agreed that this is where we saw one of the greatest concentrations of tony folk—all fit, tanned and well turned out—in the Rockies. Most were of un certain age, which to us dispelled our previously held notion that you don’t see many older people in the mountains. (Really you don’t but if you’re going to see a good show of them, it’s likely to be at one of the many culturally- or intellectually-stimulating events that take place in Aspen and Vail during the summer.)
Bravo! at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater
The scene was perfectly charming. We bobbed between avid outdoor concert goers who clearly knew a thing or two about picnic-ing en élégance. (I spotted one golden-crusted quiche delicately dished out with a silver server by an attractive picnic goer.) The venue’s wine concession impressed me the most though. Never before had I seen such a variety of bottles served up so efficiently—complete with plastic wine bucket and glasses—for guests to bring back to their seats, both on the lawn and within the amphitheater. Grande classe. Truly this was not a popcorn and soda crowd, although these snacks sell here as well.
Phillie's View from the Stage
The notes from the concert continued to dance blissfully in our heads as we strolled out of the Ford Park on this beautiful summer’s eve. The vibrant, whimsical scene at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens complemented the sophisticated setting of the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater to a T.
And throughout, the magnificent Rocky mountains stood as the backdrop for all.
One Sweet Boutique
Ford Park is located at the east end of Vail off Gore Creek Drive.
Know that the Vail International Dance Festival holds many of its performances at the Gerald Ford Amphitheater from July 27th through August 10th as well.
Don’t miss the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens Gift Shops. The Schoolhouse at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens is open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Visit this adorable old structure for a harvest of gift items, all on the garden theme. Their Alpine Treasures in-town gift shop in Vail Village is open year-round.
Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping Spas The Rockies: Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Mountain Living Restaurants Shopping Spas The Rockies
by maribeth
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Our Ouray
Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray
Named for the chief of the Ute Indians, the little town of Ouray (pronounced your-ay) has become one of my favorite getaway destinations in the Rocky Mountains. One might argue that this is because it’s only an hour’s drive from Telluride, but its appeal extends far beyond its proximity to my place of residence. And I’ve hardly partaken in the two activities most associated with Ouray: ice climbing and jeeping.
I’m drawn to Ouray for its striking natural beauty and the delightful mix of Rocky mountain charm and elegance that most of the town’s establishments exude. It’s not unheard of to spot a couple of five-pointed bucks crossing Main Street in the middle of the afternoon. Here the mountains plummet into this National Historic District claiming the unpaved backstreets as its foothills, the main street as its valley floor. The views are so striking in this boxed canyon that Ouray is often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America, a moniker that you can hardly dispute as you gaze up to the jagged peaks that almost entirely encircle this old mining town where tourism is now king.
My boyfriend, Steve, and I have made it a tradition of sorts to spend a short weekend here at the onset of summer, two years in a row that we’ve both been beguiled by the authentic character of this old mountain town. No fast foods and not a single stoplight either. Instead Ouray claims bragging rights to a quaint collection of B & Bs and down-home lodges, a jumble of fun shops and restaurants, world-renowned hot springs and a gorgeous hotel that is itself worth the trip.
The Bodacious Beaumont
O.K., by now you know I love luxury hotels. Well, I’ve found my bliss at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel & Spa. Even if you just stop by for a drink on the patio, this hotel is a must in Ouray, a must-see in the Rockies. The Beaumont is a destination hotel that’s worth going out of your way to experience. And yes it is likely you’ll have to negotiate your schedule and maybe even some scary mountain roads to find your way to this remote part of Colorado. But do go. Once here you’ll experience the full glory of the golden days of mining when grand hotels were erected in remote little towns in order to properly receive the high rolling businessmen of the day. Built in 1886 during Ouray’s heyday, the Beaumont reopened in 2003 after having undergone a five million-dollar renovation lovingly carried out by Dan and Mary King. The hotel emerged from a near state of ruin as every detail—from its grand staircase to its flourish of ornate wallpapers—was restored, or exactly replicated, to its original Victorian splendor. In the hotel’s Tundra Restaurant you’ll be greatly impressed by the beauty of the dining room as well as the food and wine offerings. (The owner, Dan King, was a former wine merchant.) Dining in this dimly lighted, dark wood paneled space beneath high ceilings makes me feel as though I’ve landed in an old Scottish castle.
Yes, I do love the Old World and also anything Old World-ish in America as long as its exceedingly well done. Bulow’s Bistro, also in the Beaumont, is one such example. Its tiled floor, wrought iron accents, café tables and blackboard writings make me feel as though I’ve just landed in a French bistrot. Here, too, you can expect a remarkable choice of wines. It’s so reassuring to know that my French fix is only an hour away.
Outdoor activities reign supreme in Ouray but in truth, I’ve always just spent my time strolling around town, poking into shops and checking out a few of the natural spectacular attractions such as waterfalls, the hot springs, and the peaks, known as The Amphitheater, that encircle town.
The Utes were drawn to healing sources for both therapeutic and spiritual reasons, so it comes as no surprise that these springs were greatly revered by this tribe of native Americans. Descendants of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Utes, still frequent the original source where these springs flow from the base of the mountain into the Vapor Cave of The Wiesbaden, a lodge where a bathhouse once operated as early as 1879. Here Steve and I most like to loll in the Lorelei, a private outdoor soaking pool that assures you relaxation, rejuvenation and a near-sacred moment shared with your sweetie in steamy waters. Best to reserve in advance.
One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge
From here, I recommend going back to your room, especially if it’s one of the spacious condo-types we once experienced at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs. Or just flop into a seat at the Main Street Theater to watch the multi-media presentation San Juan Odyssey. (O.K., maybe you could head out for a libation or a bite to eat as well.) Narrated by C.W. McCall (of “Convoy” fame) with music by Aaron Copeland and The London Symphony Orchestra, this panoramic presentation takes you into the rugged peaks, the gentle valleys and the high mountain passes of the San Juan Mountains. You traverse some of the most spectacular terrain of the United States during this thirty-five minute show, embracing nature in all its gentleness and cruelty—from blooming wildflowers to charging avalanches—that so mark this part of the Rockies.
“If it’s there, you’ve got to climb it,” seems to be the motto of visitors and residents alike of this uncompromising land for the past century and a half. Whether you’re hiking, on a horse or jeeping, people tackle these awe-inspiring peaks with fierce determination and drive. I was grateful that the San Juan Odyssey transported me to some of the most reputed sites of the region: Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene and Engineer Pass, Mt. Abrams, all places I hope to venture to some day in person. But in the meantime, I’m perfectly content to experience them from the comfort of my theater seat after a relaxing soak.
Not surprisingly, the presentation—and perhaps the whole town—had the opposite effect on Steve. Our usual one-hour drive home turned into a four-hour expedition as Steve pulled off onto Last Dollar Road at the top of Dallas Divide. We rumbled past the broken down farm which appears in the opening scene of “True Grit” and forged forward onto the less-trammeled part of this old dirt road. Jostled and shaken in his beat-up Jeep, Steve and I felt like two rancheros out on the trail as “San Antonio Rose” blared from the CD player. I made sure Steve kept his eyes on the road but we both still marveled at magnificent mountain views from elevations as high as 10,000 feet.
We stopped just long enough to take pictures before approaching our descent into another heavenly mountain town, our beautiful Telluride. Now let’s be clear about the renowned back roads—most old mining roads—of the San Juans. We weren’t on Black Bear Road, the infamous course which begins at the summit of Red Mountain (just outside Ouray), passes by Bridal Veil Falls (the highest waterfall in Colorado), ending just beyond in Telluride. Thank goodness it wasn’t this one-way road where more than one traveler has met his demise. It was plenty challenging for me, however, just enough to give me a taste of the amazing high country exploration available in this part of the Rockies.
We vowed to go back and do more four wheeling along the area’s famous alpine loop in the fall. Fortunately I feel confident that such an excursion will include stops at my favorite watering holes and rest stops in Ouray, mostly because Steve’s grown attached to them as well. It’s nice to have more than one magical mountain town to call your own.
Beaumont Hotel & Spa, 505 Main Street, 888-447-3255 and 970-325-7000, 970-325-7050 (Bulow’s Bistro), 970-325-7040 (Tundra Restaurant), BeaumontHotel.com
The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings, Corner of 6th Avenue & 5th Street, 970-325-4347, WiesbadenHotSprings.com
Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, 45 Third Avenue, 800-327-5080 or 970-325-4981, BoxCanyonOuray.com
San Juan Odyssey, 630 Main Street, 970-325-4940; best to call for show times.
Other Ouray Favorites
Ouray Hot Springs Pool, 970-325-7073
Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee, 520 Main Street, 970-325-7285, MousesChocolates.com
Rockin P Ranch, 512 Main Street, 970-325-0434, RockinPRanch.com
Buckskin Booksellers, 505 Main Street, 970-325-4044, BuckskinBooksellers.com; open 365 days a year!
Best to check opening days and hours with most Ouray establishments since business is very seasonal.
Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray
Art & Culture French Life French Provinces Hotels & Lodging Paris Podcasts: Art & Culture French Life French Provinces Hotels & Lodging Paris Podcasts
by maribeth
Comments Off on Oh Château Life!
Oh Château Life!
A Perfect French Summer Scene: Colza Fields Blanketing the Château de la Motte d'Usseau Landscape
If you’ve caught any coverage of the Tour de France, you’ve seen some glorious shots of the French countryside dotted with fairy tale-looking castles and elegant manor houses. Families still live in most of these impressive dwellings, many of whom have lived there for centuries. And even better, some of these families of long lineage open up their stately residences to visitors on a nightly or even weekly basis. (Yes, you can easily rent your own château in France for your destination wedding, family reunion or other exciting event.)
Château du Fraisse, A Grand Property Near Limoges
But how do you go about connecting with these people, some of whom may be just familiarizing themselves with the Internet? Enter Diane Ohanian, French château expert par excellence. Diane created au Château some ten years ago, a company and e-newsletter that dials Americans into château life in France. In my Travel Fun interview with Diane (and through her au Château Web site and newsletter), I’ve found her to be an incredible resource on French châteaux and on French life in general. As an ardent Francophile for more than two decades, Diane has made it her mission to suss out some of the most glorious and welcoming abodes in the gallic land. Indeed au Château is a great English-language resource for travelers looking to stay in historic places.
Room with a View at Château Sallandrouze and Many Other Châteaux
Click on the play button below to hear what Diane has to say about château life in France, French hosts and what she appreciates most about life in France. Hint: it has nothing to do with traffic jams and fast food.
Three châteaux have been featured in the above images including Château de la Motte d’Usseau, Château du Fraisse and Château Sallandrouze. (For Château Sallandrouze, please check with Diane directly at inquiry@au-chateau.com for this property’s availability.) Note that au Château boasts nearly eighty members on their site, so you have a variety of experiences to chose from in every corner of France.
Diane (on the left) with One of Her Hosts
Diane on the French as Hosts
“They’re excellent hosts, warm and friendly. The nobility is nice, too. Not at all condescending. I hope it’s not a disappointment when they (travelers) find out that they (the noble families) are like everyone else.”
Book Pick
“The Paris Neighborhood Cookbook: Danyel Couet’s Guide to the City’s Ethnic Cuisines,” by Danyel Couet and David Loftus
Listen to what Diane has to say about this book in the above interview.
