26 May 2011, 3:10pm
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Dreaming of Deauville

Distinctly Deauville

Distinctly Deauville

With Deauville and the G8 summit in the news right now, I’ve found myself dreaming of this princely Norman town by the sea. How I loved to go there for weekend getaways from Paris, especially during spring when the bucolic scenery of Normandy—this renowned apple-and-cheese region of France—is most verdant.

Northern Riviera Splendor

Northern Riviera Splendor

A speedy two-and-a-half-hour drive from the capital, Deauville rates high on the list of favorite Parisian weekend destinations. Aside from socializing, gambling, and playing golf, the favorite thing to do in this pristine seaside resort is to walk along les planches, one of the most famous boardwalks on earth. Even on blustery days you can spot pleasure-seekers strolling along as the wind snaps at the myriad brightly colored parasols and their thick sashes of contrasting hues.

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Bonjour Paris Talks with Bonjour Colorado

View from Pont Alexandre III in Paris

View from Pont Alexandre III in Paris

Ah, Paree. There’s nothing like Paris. And it’s true, the City of Light can be delightful in April.

Karen Fawcett

Karen Fawcett

But where does one begin? There’s so much to see and do in the French capital. And how about gaining more insight into zee French? I lived there eleven years, have written four shopping and touring guides to Paris and the French provinces, and I’m still looking to inform myself about France and its countrymen. So where do I turn for lots of helpful information and insightful stories about Paris and the French provinces? Why, BonjourParis.com, bien sur.

I interviewed Karen Fawcett, the driving force behind Bonjour Paris, this past fall on my Travel Fun radio show. Listen to our chat below to hear how Bonjour Paris has been the definitive guide to Paris since 1995. And the range and depth of their reporting doesn’t stop with Paris. (Although every bon parisien has believed for centuries that their fair city is the center of the universe. In truth, moi aussi for a while!) Thankfully Bonjour Paris gives the rest of France its due, another reason why this informative Web site has earned a leading presence on the worldwide web for all things French.

Karen is funny and insightful, so don’t miss this opportunity to hear more about this much-loved land from someone truly in-the-know.

Click to play the Bonjour Paris program

Thank you to DaliParis and Karen Fawcett for the above images.

Oh Château Life!

A Perfect French Summer Scene:  Colza Fields Blanketing the Château de la Motte d'Usseau Landscape

A Perfect French Summer Scene: Colza Fields Blanketing the Château de la Motte d'Usseau Landscape

If you’ve caught any coverage of the Tour de France, you’ve seen some glorious shots of the French countryside dotted with fairy tale-looking castles and elegant manor houses.  Families still live in most of these impressive dwellings, many of whom have lived there for centuries.  And even better, some of these families of long lineage open up their stately residences to visitors on a nightly or even weekly basis. (Yes, you can easily rent your own château in France for your destination wedding, family reunion or other exciting event.)

Château du Fraisse Near Limoges

Château du Fraisse, A Grand Property Near Limoges

But how do you go about connecting with these people, some of whom may be just familiarizing themselves with the Internet?  Enter Diane Ohanian, French château expert par excellence.  Diane created au Château some ten years ago, a company and e-newsletter that dials Americans into château life in France.  In my Travel Fun interview with Diane (and through her au Château Web site and newsletter), I’ve found her to be an incredible resource on French châteaux and on French life in general.  As an ardent Francophile for more than two decades, Diane has made it her mission to suss out some of the most glorious and welcoming abodes in the gallic land.  Indeed au Château is a great English-language resource for travelers looking to stay in historic places.

Room with a View at Château Sallandrouze and Many Other Châteaux

Room with a View at Château Sallandrouze and Many Other Châteaux

Click on the play button below to hear what Diane has to say about château life in France, French hosts and what she appreciates most about life in France.  Hint:  it has nothing to do with traffic jams and fast food.

Three châteaux have been featured in the above images including Château de la Motte d’Usseau, Château du Fraisse and Château Sallandrouze.  (For Château Sallandrouze, please check with Diane directly at inquiry@au-chateau.com for this property’s availability.)  Note that au Château boasts nearly eighty members on their site, so you have a variety of experiences to chose from in every corner of France.

Diane (on the left) with One of Her Hosts

Diane (on the left) with One of Her Hosts

Diane on the French as Hosts

“They’re excellent hosts, warm and friendly.  The nobility is nice, too.  Not at all condescending.  I hope it’s not a disappointment when they (travelers) find out that they (the noble families) are like everyone else.”

Book Pick

“The Paris Neighborhood Cookbook:  Danyel Couet’s Guide to the City’s Ethnic Cuisines,” by Danyel Couet and David Loftus

Listen to what Diane has to say about this book in the above interview.

The French Will Always Have Monet and Much More

One of Monet's Views of Rouen

One of Monet's Views of Rouen

I’ve been thinking lately about a couple of major gatherings I attended for the tourism industry last fall.  Both of my beloved lands were covered:  France and Colorado.  The French event, entitled French Affairs ’09, put on by Atout France (also known as the French Government Tourist Office and Maison de la France), took place in New York City.  I attended one full day and evening of this grand gathering of largely travel suppliers and tourism representatives, many of whom had traveled from as far away as France and Tahiti to promote their products and destinations to some of the most attentive travel experts in the U.S.  It was a whirlwind day, marked by fine wine and cuisine, tons of networking and colorful multi-media presentations of some of the most alluring regions of France and many other exotic French-y locales, such as Guadeloupe and Saint Bart’s.  (Some of our favorite island get-ways also fall beneath the umbrella of the French Tourism Office, hence the name Atout France, which I interpreted as a play on words of sorts meaning all of France although the exact translation of atout is asset.  Are you confused yet? )

Now that this year’s tourism season is well underway in France, I’m thinking about how it seems to be shaping up, especially in view of the somewhat jittery feelings that were echoed last fall as the French travel experts touted their products and services.  The elephant in the room—the world’s bad economy—was not dwelled upon too much and instead most everyone projected a wistful c’est la vie attitude.  Perhaps it was the copious amounts of French wine served at the luncheon, the farewell cocktail and the closing dinner, that contributed to such elevated spirits amid so much recessionary doom and gloom.  But I think it had more to do with the fact that the French have seen hard times before and with such extraordinary tourism destinations as Paris, Burgundy, the Côte d’Azur, Saint-Martin and much more, worrying doesn’t make much sense anyway.

So here we are with the euro at a four-year low against the dollar.  Who could think of a better time to visit France?  Sure, there might be a few concerns about flight cancellations due to ongoing eruptions from Eyjafjallajokull, Iceland’s troublesome volcano.  But at least lately glittering images from Cannes have overshadowed that news.  No, it seems as though there are more reasons for going to France in these upcoming months than what we’ve registered in a while.  Here are a few of my favorites:

Paris

Don’t miss the Yves Saint Laurent exhibition at the Petit Palais, the first-ever retrospective of this revolutionary French fashion designer.  You have until 29 August to view this much-talked-about show.

Antibes Juan les Pins

The celebrated Jazz à Juan festival marks its 50th anniversary this July.  As the longest running jazz festival in Europe, it promises to be steamy hot with a lineup that includes George Benson, Diana Krall and Maceo Parker.  There’s nothing like being serenaded by world-class jazz as a cool breeze blows through the nearby palm trees.

Normandy

The Impressionists drew inspiration from the many varied subjects of this beloved region of France, including its verdant countryside, its ports and its major sites.  (Claude Monet captured the many different allures of the Rouen Cathedral in more than thirty paintings.)  This year the region of Normandy pays homage to the indelible mark left by the Impressionists by launching the Normandy Impressionist Festival that runs through September.  Expect lots of culture, fun events and great restaurant and lodging packages both in Rouen and throughout the region.

These happenings and more were highlighted at this French travel industry event.  Find out about others—islands included—at FranceGuide.com, the French Government Tourist Office’s official site.  There you’ll also find links to some attractive travel deals.

We’re ramping up for the summer season in Colorado now.  It’s still pretty bleak here in the mountains but that should all change by mid June.  I’ll report on the Colorado tourism industry event and how the season is shaping up in an upcoming posting.  As you know, spring is the time to be in France.  Here, it’s still mud season and snow remains in the forecast for the mountains the next couple of days. Tant pis, c’est la vie.

Thank you to Catherine Lancien et Carole Loisel, the Musée des Beaux Arts de Rouen and Rouen Tourisme for the use of the above image.

1 Dec 2009, 10:09am
Cycling French Life French Provinces Paris Podcasts:
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Listen to Graham Watson Talk the Tour

2010 Tour de France Route

2010 Tour de France Route

The 2010 Tour de France route was posted just over a month ago which means that hotels along the course are booking up fast.  There’s still time, however, to plan a trip to take in some of this renowned bike race next July.  Renowned Tour photographer, Graham Watson, will tell you how.  Read about what I wrote about Graham and his book, “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide,” here.  You can also listen to Graham speak about the Tour and more  by clicking on the play button here:

24 Aug 2009, 5:57pm
French Provinces Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas:
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Sizzling Sensations from Saint-Tropez

Sexy Saint-Tropez

Sexy Saint-Tropez

O.K., I mentioned Saint-Tropez a few posts ago and I’m still tapping into a well of exhilarating emotions.  What a scintillating town!  And all under the guise of an old fishing village that exudes a delicious combination of Provençal charm and Côte d’Azur pizazz.  It’s both glitzy and real.  To me, it’s one of the most picturesque and authentic tourist destinations in the world.  It’s also a great place for shopping and gallery going, so be sure to meander within the maze of old streets to seek out your favorite boutique.  K. Jacques, renowned maker of sandals, is most definitely one of mine.  You’ll also find lots of great pottery shops, antique dealers and fashion-forward clothing and accessories boutiques tucked within this glamorous enclave.

Hotel Byblos: A Saint-Tropez Classic

Hotel Byblos: A Saint-Tropez Classic

The celebrated Hotel Byblos is still the magical place to be for lodging, dining, drinks, spa treatments or lolling on the beach (hiding behind designer sunglasses in a skimpy little number, bien sur).  The whole establishment is awash with cheerful, fresh colors characteristic of Provence and the French Riviera.  The hotel has clearly not spared a dime in recent refurbishments since most of the rooms have been beautifully decorated in luxurious fabrics from leading French names Canovas, Frey and Lelievre. Here your beach experience is extended in bathrooms beautified with Italian marble, exotic tiles and polished pebbles.  For further pampering, visit The Byblos Spa that features a host of treatments created exclusively by Sisley Cosmetics for Byblos.  A stay here (and to Saint-Tropez) is not complete without dining at Spoon Byblos where you can enjoy Mediterranean-inspired cuisine along with an international wine selection.  An Alain Ducasse restaurant, the first Spoon, opened over ten years ago in Paris, a highly successful concept that has been replicated in several other countries.

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10 Aug 2009, 2:49pm
Art & Culture French Life French Provinces:
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Pondering Provence

A Quintessential Provençal Scene

A Quintessential Provençal Scene

Ahhhh, mid August.  Here in the mountains I’m already chagrined by a certain crispness in the air.  Fall and the first snows won’t be far off.  The weather has been glorious lately but I’m still longing for a blast of furnace-like heat, sweltering days that force me to retreat beneath a shade tree until the delightful oppressiveness of the day subsides and I can emerge to take in perhaps a cultural site or just sip a perfectly chilled glass of rosé on a terrace.  The desert isn’t far from where I live now and certainly it provides plenty of warmth.  But I am thinking of Provence.  Sun-drenched days, shady plane trees, a plethora of cultural offerings, delicious wines and so much more.

We are approaching le quinze août after all, the holiday of all holidays for Europeans.  Many people don’t even know that August fifteenth marks Assumption, a Catholic holiday that is hardly celebrated in Europe except for the fact that most everyone has the day off.  People typically take a whole week off around August fifteenth (if they can’t manage the entire month!).  So you can imagine it is the big vacation week of the summer, the biggest of the year in fact.

I have been in Provence during this period many times, battling crowds at the renowned markets of Saint-Tropez and Ilse-sur-la-Sorgue (you have to arrive early at these and most others).  Yet somehow I always managed and it was always worth it. 

But traveling to Provence in the fall offers a whole other experience.  Yes, you might still have difficulty reserving a table on the patio at the famed Oustau de Baumanière, but you won’t encounter the throngs of tourists that invade this most delightful region of France in July and August.  You’ll still find the weather to be glorious and the cultural offerings just as exciting.

Bea (on the rt.) with Mount St-Victoire, Cézanne's Mountain in the Distance

Bea (on the rt.) with Le Mont Sainte-Victoire, Cézanne's Mountain, in the Distance

So why not consider a small, escorted tour composed of fellow travelers of discriminating taste?  I recently became in touch with Beatriz Ball, founder of Golden Bee Tours, a Brazilian-born woman that boasts a huge passion for France, especially Provence.  

The Golden Vineyards of Provence in Autumn

The Golden Vineyards of Provence in Autumn

Since Bea’s Provence Arts and Scents Tour for the third week of September has sold out, she has decided to offer it the last week in September as well.  The highlight of this tour is certainly a guided visit to “Picasso-Cézanne,” a much-talked-about exhibition at the Musée Granet in Aix-en-Provence that explores Cézanne’s influence on Picasso.  Being ferried about a beautiful place with a delightful lady in the know—now that’s what I call a real vacation.

Bea, a recent guest on Travel Fun, chatted with me mostly during our interview about why so many artists have been lured to Provence over more than a century.  “I remember being so impressed with the quality of light the first time I traveled to Provence many years ago,” Bea said.  Indeed the skies are so clear and vivid that they offer up a kaleidoscope of colors that changes throughout the day.  Certainly this is largely why Picasso, Cézanne and countless other artists sought to capture this region of France on canvas.  “The region celebrates your senses,” Bea added and I concurred.  It didn’t take much for my thoughts to drift off to the ever present crick-crick-crick of the cicadas, the wafting smells of rosemary and thyme, the taste of a rich tapenade spread over crusty bread, the feel of rubbing a sprig of lavender between my palms, the vision of Abbaye de Sénanque in all its Romanesque splendor on a late summer’s afternoon.

Ah—haaaa.  Mid August.  I should either book a flight to France or go buy myself a nice bottle of Bandol and a few olives.  No wonder it has captivated so many people for so many years.

Thank you to Bea and LCI/CDT VAR for the use of the above images.

Talking the Tour with Graham Watson

The Old Always Contrasts with the New at the Tour

The Old Always Contrasts the New at the Tour de France

By now you must have figured out that I have a thing for France.  But it has come as a surprise to many (mostly my French friends!) that I’m crazy about the Tour de France.  How can I not be?  What a wonderful display of French countryside and good looking men!  Of course I also like the international flair of this epic bike race and cycling itself.  (Once I figured out that it’s both a team and an individual sport, I became fascinated with how well the cyclists work together.  Or not.)

Graham and His Basque Driver of Twenty Years

Graham and His Basque Driver of Twenty Years

So you can imagine when I was pitched the idea of interviewing Tour veteran Graham Watson on Travel Fun, I jumped at the chance.  Graham, a renowned cycling photographer, has followed the Tour for about three decades.  He’s one of those dudes perched on the back of un moto that careens in and out of the peloton.  He’s one of sixteen Tour photographers that has that privilege.  (There are 150 official Tour photographers in all.)  “Being a photographer on a motorbike at the Tour de France is the best job there is,” Graham admits without a grain of conceit in his ever-so charming British accent.

I was thrilled to be able to chat with him on the phone from London, fresh off the Tour (that ended this past Sunday).  With the exception of any mention of good looking guys, I learned Graham was attracted to the Tour for much the same reasons as those that have made me such a devotee.  “It was the color, excitement, drama and the possibility of discovering France that drew me to the Tour,” Graham admitted.  In 1977, during his first trip to the Gallic land and his first Tour de France, he realized “France wasn’t so bad.”  Indeed the Tour has been a wonderful means for experiencing France for Graham and today he readily acknowledges that he’s a Francophile.  (So much for the Franco-British and British-Franco rivalry!)

A section of La Corniche, between the Col d'Aubisque and the Col du Soulor, in the 1995 Tour de France

A section of La Corniche, between the Col d'Aubisque and the Col du Soulor, in the 1995 Tour de France

Graham shares his passion for France and the Tour de France not only through his photography but also through a newly-released book, “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide,” a must-have for Tour enthusiasts whether you’re planning a trip to France or not.  It’s an insider’s guide to the Tour, beautifully presented with lots of How to information, four-color maps, photos by Graham and others, history and anecdotes and more.  

This book provides you with all that you need to happily navigate this exciting sporting event.  It even tells you how to meet the pros, something that I was fortunate enough to do—totally by accident—a number of years ago.  I ended up staying in the same hotel as the U.S. Postal Team one night and actually met Lance on the eve of his legendary Alpe d’Huez win in 2001.  That’s the kind of amazing encounter you can have at the Tour.  “Cycling is a very modest sport,” Graham says.  “The riders do meet and greet the public.  They’re not super stars that hide beyond a stadium.”

Graham has seen the Tour de France evolve from a parochial French event in the late seventies to the big international event that it is today.  His career got off the ground along with the success of cycling greats Greg Lemond, Sean Kelly and Phil Anderson.  Lance Armstrong has certainly given us all the ride of our lives at the Tour.  Isn’t it wonderful though to be debriefed by someone that his been so entrenched in the peloton for so many years?  Thanks Graham for marrying your two passions:  cycling and photography.  And I might add, for choosing to do it in France.

Always an Exciting Finish on the Champs-Elysées

Always an Exciting Finish on the Champs-Elysées

Tips for Attending the Tour de France from Graham Watson

-Target three to four consecutive days (stages) in the Alps or the Pyrenees and then spend about the same amount of time discovering some place else in France.

-Begin planning your trip once the Tour route has been announced mid-October.  Graham feels that the Internet is a great resource for booking hotels.  Know that many rooms are taken first by the Tour, so you have to get on it fast.

-Your best chance for meeting a cyclist is after the finish line when they often have to pedal out of the secured area.

Consult “Graham Watson’s Tour de France Travel Guide” for many more!

For up-to-the-minute news about competitive cycling, check out VeloNews.

More Graham Glory

More Graham Glory

Thank you to Graham Watson and VeloPress for the use of the above images.

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