Hotels & Lodging New England Restaurants Shopping Travel: Bargains Cape Cod Casino Wharf cranberries Dan'l Webster Inn Falmouth Hotels & Lodging Mashpee New England Restaurants road trips Sandwich senior travel Shopping Travel
by maribeth
1 comment
Cape Cod, Cranberries and the Creation of Ever-Lasting Memories
Cranberries: The Most Festive Holiday Fruit
Over the weekend I made a cranberry bread to finish off the package of cranberries left over from the cranberry relish I whipped up at Thanksgiving. Both the bread and the relish were made from my mother’s recipes; although tasty, sadly neither turned out as good as hers. I’ll blame it on the altitude, at least for the baking. The not-so crisp relish was more a result of the equipment. (How can a blender do as good of a job as a Cuisinart anyway?)
None of this really mattered though, since these roundish red berries transported me back to my mother’s kitchen, to my mother’s love and to an especially memorable trip I took this fall with my mom and dad. We had decided to take a three-day, two-night road trip to Cape Cod, Massachusetts from Troy, New York, a 240-mile journey that represented a considerable jaunt for anyone but even more so for our little group since the necessity of snack and bathroom breaks required frequent stopping. Mom did all the driving, a notable feat because the first part of our travels was marked by torrential rain and relentless fog. I surveyed the road from the backseat, providing little navigational input since my mom had traveled this route countless times before.
The purpose of our journey was twofold: to visit Eleanor, my mother’s best friend, and to have fun together. This was to be my first ever road trip with just my parents and me. I think we all secretly wished it would be special.
We decided to go low-budget with our lodging and spare no expense with dining out. We checked into The Santuit Inn toward the end of the afternoon the first day, hauled my dad’s 50-pound sleep apnea machine into his room and carefully settled him in so that his plethora of toiletries were close at hand. Mom and I bunked in farther down in this boutique motel that had recently been spiffed up with a cheery cottage-like decor. We nodded approvingly to each other about the striped and flowered bed coverings and took time to admire the Cape scenes that adorned the walls. I had already met Peter (pronounced Pee-tah here), the owner, upon arrival and felt confident we were in good hands.
Dad had little time to settle into his evening news programs, since my mother and I whisked him off to the historic Dan’l Webster Inn in nearby Sandwich for dinner. Here we opted for the Tavern, the more charming part of this renowned establishment distinguished by a huge fireplace, low ceilings, wood floors and paneling. We cozied up into the red leather booths and feasted on specialities such as seafood chowder and lobster pot pie. It was the end of the tourist season and the place was jamming, surely not an uncommon experience for this inn any time of the year, particularly if you arrive for their early evening special. We had missed the discounted dinners, however, since even at this stage of their lives, my parents were never big on dining early.
Mom and I were sure we’d zonk out for a big night’s sleep after such a day of travel. But as soon as we turned off the T.V. and found ourselves in the quiet of our room, we were astonished by the loud drone emanating from my dad’s room two doors away. “My God, is that his sleep machine?” I asked my mother. Neither of us could imagine that it sounded so loud. We were horrified.
“It sounds like we’re on a tarmac with jet engines idling,” I added. “We’re going to be kicked out of here. What if the other guests hear it like we do?”
“We’ve traveled before with it and it’s never gone off so loudly,” my mom said.
“I can’t believe dad can sleep through that,” I remarked.
“Oh, he’d sleep through anything,” my mom replied.
Both my mother and I laughed hysterically and then finally miraculously fell asleep. I awoke several times throughout the night fearful that someone was going to rap on the door and complain. Thank goodness Peter appeared so kind. I was also glad it was slow season and their weren’t many guests at the inn.
Day two was to be our big day. Dad and I began early next door at Persy’s Place, one of the best breakfast and lunch spots on the Cape. They have locations throughout the region and each is known for their homemade baked goods, in particular their famous cornbread. Mom was ready to go by the time we returned, perfectly turned out in her pumpkin-colored coat and autumnal scarf. Although we drove a seemingly endless amount of miles the day before, she was all set to slip behind the wheel again today. Fortunately the sun shone brightly.
Hotels & Lodging Travel: Hotels & Lodging Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on San Francisco Elegance
San Francisco Elegance
A Cozy Nook at the Huntington Hotel on Nob Hill
Some of my most memorable moments have been created in fine hotels and restaurants. There’s something about sitting in the lap of luxury that makes you never forget the place, the moment or the person with whom you share such an experience. I remember dining at Paris’s famed La Tour d’Argent with my mother and then French husband to celebrate the publication of my first book, “The Chic Shopper’s Guide to Paris,” and staying at The Peninsula in Hong Kong on the occasion of a wild fling (mon dieu!) with a fellow travel writer. These all happened many years ago but in my mind, the details are so vivid it seems as though they happened yesterday. There have been many fabulous hotels and restaurants since and I know I could sit down today and parse the most impressionable moments from each.
My times in Motel 6’s and Super 8’s have escaped me entirely.
Superior Service at the Huntington
This is why people splurge from time to time to sample such fine establishments. They might blow a week’s salary on an amazing long weekend but in the end, they have created a lifetime’s worth of memories. And yes, this is still happening today. Not only do people realize the necessity for marking special occasions such as a birthday, an anniversary or just a romantic weekend away, but the deals on many of the world’s landmark properties are better than ever. So if it comes down to choices, why not consider a lodging or dining extravagance over an addition to your wardrobe or another electronic gadget?
I recently discovered the Huntington Hotel in San Francisco and have added it to my list of most unforgettable hotels. Situated amongst other grand residences in the stately neighborhood of Nob Hill, this elegant establishment has been graciously welcoming discerning travelers for eighty-five years. Its close proximity to Union Square, the center of town, provides it with an ideal location, yet you truly feel away-from-it-all atop Nob Hill, the very place where the railroad barons of the Central Pacific Line chose to establish residence at the latter part of the nineteenth century. Fisherman’s Wharf and Chinatown are also within walking distance, but you might not want to venture far since a lively collection of shops and bistrots have also taken up residence on Nob HIll, just a couple of blocks from The Huntington.
If you do stay here, you might even want to leave the bulk of your sight-seeing for another trip since it’s easy to become ensconced in the grandeur of this superlative hotel. I love its Old World charm which may be best experienced within the cozy confines of its bar area, a wood-paneled enclave, perfect for speaking in hushed tones to the one you love. Yet like most of the world’s long-established luxury hotels, its amenities are completely twenty-first century. Nob Hill Spa at The Huntington Hotel serves as a prime example. This serene space had been conceived with both Elysian pampering and big city de-stressing in mind.
And I assure you, you’re likely not to forget your time spent at this spa, or within the entire Huntington Hotel, as long as you live.
The Huntington Hotel & Nob Hill Spa, 1075 California Street, 415-474-5400, www.huntingtonhotel.com
Nob Hill Spa at Dusk
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Travel: Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping The Beach Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks
East Coast Adventure: The Outer Banks
The Outer Banks of North Carolina
Even travel writers need a vacation. Everybody needs a break from their job even if their work is their passion. That’s exactly what I did during my four days and nights on The Outer Banks of North Carolina. I didn’t take a single note. I didn’t scout out the best places of lodging, the most typical restaurants or everyone’s favorite dairy bar. I didn’t come away with a single address, phone number or Web site.
My mind is imbued, however, with myriad images of a place that was once imagined and is now forever known. I had envisioned a certain wildness about this immense slice of land that extends along the coast of North Carolina. (The Outer Banks is actually a long, narrow string of barrier islands some two-hundred miles long.) I found its untamed characteristics in its charging surf and along immense swathes of beaches best accessed by four-wheel drive vehicles with deflated tires. I felt enchanted by the region’s cedar shingled houses on stilts despite the over proliferation of them in a good many areas. Indeed the development of The Outer Banks has not always been kept carefully in check but it’s no wonder since much like on Cape Cod and in certain parts of Maine, the ocean roars for attention here drawing crowds from near and far.
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel: Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Beach Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Virginia Beach
Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Virginia Beach
VB Hotspot: The Sexy SkyBar
I have to admit I’m more of a Saint-Tropez kind of gal, so I felt somewhat wary about the idea of spending time at Virginia Beach, a destination that conjured up images of guys in muscle shirts and girls romping about in wet T-shirt contests on the beach. But it made sense for me to park myself there for a few days until my boyfriend, Steve, came by to pick me up for our trip to the Outer Banks. He had actually lived in VB for a while nearly two decades ago and his curiosity about the evolution of this major resort town encouraged me to check it out.
Both of us ended up being quite impressed by this super beach-y destination.
And who wouldn’t be? The Atlantic is gorgeous here. It stretches out as far as the eye can see and comes crashing in with big tumbling waves. I love the vastness of the ocean but I find it even more interesting when there’s activity on the water and here, at practically the mouth of Chesapeake Bay, there’s plenty to see. Cruise ships, barges, immense freighters and all kinds of pleasure boats pass by at varying distances from the horizon, providing endless hours of entertainment, especially for a landlubber like me.
Neptune's Statue on the Boardwalk
The beach and boardwalk tract the coast for some three miles here. My biggest decisions revolved around whether I’d walk on the expansive sandy beach or meander along the impeccably maintained boardwalk. Now that’s vacation mode. Most of the time I ended up doing a combination of both. The scene at both locales percolated with locals and visitors alike doing all the fun things you do at the beach. And yes, I saw a number of muscle men, but more in the form of super fit guys jogging, walking and roller blading along the boardwalk. Few posers here. This is the real deal since Naval Air Station (NAS) Oceana, our country’s largest naval facility is located in VB and I can assure you that all of these military dudes and dudettes appear more than fit to serve. The locals overall look as taut and tight as most Coloradans. This is a beach community after all.
The tourists seem more concerned with gorging themselves in one of the many restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and various other eateries along the beach. And VB is their oyster when it comes to choosing their preferred form of temptation. There’s something for every taste and pocketbook and most scintillate with a brightly-colored decor that offers outstanding views of the beach.
VB Ocean Beach Club Penthouse
Far from a tired old beach town, Virginia Beach pops and bubbles with beautiful places of lodging as well. The Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club is one such place and I felt so content here that it was hard to tear myself away from the sunny interior of my eighth floor abode that plunged over the ocean. The crash of the waves on the beach lulled me to sleep and I snatched every possible moment to sit on my balcony high above the activity below. Morning meant gazing down at early risers strolling on this vast playland of freshly raked beach. I sipped tea (hot and iced) bemused by pods of dolphins that frolicked in the surf throughout the day. In the evening I savored white wine staring down at this constantly animated tableau and one night I even worked on my laptop from my little perch. The combined glow from the moon and my computer screen will never be forgotten.
VB Ocean Beach Club at Dusk
A little investigating led me to unearth lots of charm amidst all this newness. Of course the quaintness of the beach never waned, but I delighted in discovering some small, soulful places that clearly rank as locals’ best-loved establishments. I peeked into Pelon’s Baja Grill, a surfers’ favorite, the first day I arrived, yet sadly never made it back for some of their renowned fish tacos and guacamole. I picked up some excellent take out instead from Taste nearby and brought it back to my surf-side enclave. I also longed to experience the old beach house interiors of Doc Taylor’s and Tautogs, but opted out of eating there as well since the beach beckoned. (I swear I’ll return to Doc Taylor’s some day, especially for their crab crêpe with veggies topped with Hollandaise sauce.) Steve and I did, however, grab breakfast at The Belvedere Coffee Shop, a real classic that hasn’t changed since the days when he would come here with his buddies before a day in the surf. The Belvedere is a totally unpretentious diner that offers fantastic views of the ocean and tasty eggs cooked to order.
Rockfish, a must-see for anyone that has a love for the Beatles, presents more great vistas of the beach. After having studied the plethora of Beatles’ memorabilia here (one of the largest in the world), I was happy to sit outside and gaze at the VB Fishing Pier over their lighter version of scrumptious She-crab soup (a sort of bisque) and Pina Colada. She loves you, yeah, yeah, yeah.
Steve arrived for my last night and I was excited to show him all that I had discovered at Virginia Beach Oceanfront. We strolled along the boardwalk, his eyes widening as though he was seeing it all for the first time. We stopped in front of the many different points of interests—-extraordinary statues and the like—that were erected at each intersection of a street along the Boardwalk. He was amazed at how far this once shabby beach town had come, how handsomely the oceanfront had been developed over the past ten years or so. We lingered at the Neptune Plaza for a while where free concerts are performed nightly to a highly animated crowd. We poked in at The Jewish Mother, an institution of sorts known for hosting performers such as Dave Matthews and Dr. John (before they became big). Steve informed me that it hadn’t changed an ounce since his college days but we learned that it is slated to take over new digs in 2010. (This is likely a good thing since to me it looked like too much of a dive.) Their eight-inch tall carrot cake, however, tempted me greatly but we were in search of a more romantic venue.
We found our bliss at the SkyBar, the wraparound pool bar that opens at 10 p.m. on top of the Hilton. Apparently it’s only open to hotel guests, but that alone would give me reason to stay there. Part Miami, part Marrakesh, part (yes) Saint-Tropez, the look of the SkyBar is sexy and alluring. As soon as the doors opened, we busted onto the scene, took one look around and threw down my jacket on one of their many double-wide loungers that punctuate their pool deck. After doing the 360-degree tour, we opted for a lounger within the indoor pool area. It was nearing late September by now and the ocean breeze cast a chill in the air. Inside felt like a tropical paradise. We sipped strawberry daiquiris and lounged in each others’ arms amidst piles of white terry towels, many of which were rolled up into perfect bolsters. Steve moved to take off his shirt until I suggested we not become quite so comfy. As much as we were enjoying each other, we didn’t miss a minute of the action that played out before us. House music blared and fashionable folks slithered by as though they were mingling at a mixer on the beach.
I wondered how many people had ended up in the pool after a couple of hours of partying. Undoubtedly a few. If so, VB’s wet T-shirt exhibitions have certainly come a long way. Steve and I vowed to come back to take in even more next time.
SkyBar and Its Infinity Pool by Day
Virginia Beach Ocean Beach Club, 3401 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-0601 or 800-245-1003, www.vboceanbeachclub.com
Hilton, 3001 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-3000, www.Hilton.com/VirginiaBeach; SkyBar is open Friday and Saturday nights from 10 p.m.-1:30 a.m. throughout the season (which goes at least until October 31st when they’ll have a Fire & Ice Halloween Party—ooo la la!). SkyBar memberships are also available inside Catch 31, the showcase restaurant of the Hilton, for $100.
Pelon’s Baja Grill, 3619 Pacific Avenue, 757-417-3970, www.pelonsbajagrill.com
Taste, 36th & Pacific Avenue, 757-422-3399, www.tasteunlimited.com
Doc Taylor’s Restaurant, 207 23rd Street, 757-425-1960
Tautogs, 205 23rd Street, 757-422-0081, www.tautogs.com
Belvedere Coffee Shop, 3601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-0613
Rockfish Boardwalk Bar and Sea Grill, 1601 Atlantic Avenue, 757-213-7625, www.phrinc.com/restaurants/rockfish
The Jewish Mother, 3108 Pacific Avenue, 757-422-5430, www.jewishmother.com
More Fun
Pocahontas Pancake & Waffle Shop, Atlantic Aveune & 35th Street, 757-428-6352, www.pocahontaspancakes.com; loved the kitschy decor and will definitely return some day for their griddlecakes.
Whalebone, 1616 Laskin Road #748B, 757-437-8141, www.whalebonesurfshop.com; the place to shop for surfboards and surf attire, particularly ultra-cool T-shirts.
Coastal Edge, 2122 Atlantic Avenue, 757-491-9017, www.coastaledge.com; a super-popular surf and skate shop with numerous locations in Virginia Beach.
Forbes Candies, 2318 Atlantic Avenue, 757-425-5173, www.forbescandies.com; an Old School candy company that continues to make yummy saltwater taffy and other treats in big copper pots.
Pot Pourri: Bargains Hotels & Lodging Telluride The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on Great Travel Deals for Public Radio
Great Travel Deals for Public Radio
Magnificent Mountain Lodge in Telluride
Thank you to all that supported community radio in our recent KOTO fundraising drive! I still need to do my part, however, to raise money for our unique radio station here in Telluride, Colorado. Some of my favorite establishments have made some generous donations to help our cause. In exchange for the pledge amounts listed below, you can snatch up stays in outstanding properties as well as the opportunity to take an exciting train excursion, all at fantastic value.
$250. pledge: Two nights in a one-bedroom condo at the handsome Mountain Lodge in Telluride. Approximate value: $500.-750.
$250. pledge: Two nights in a hotel guestroom at the luxurious Capella in Telluride. Approximate value: $400.-900.
$150. pledge: Two nights at the Rochester Hotel, Durango’s must-see tribute to Western movie making in the Rockies. Approximate value: $320.
$50. pledge: A train ride for two on the Cascade Canyon Winter Train operated by the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Approximate value: $100.
Note that some blackout dates may apply.
I’ll be accepting pledges on a first-come basis through this Web site only. You may write me a note on my Contact Page.
Thank you in advance for supporting my fundraising efforts for KOTO, an NPR station and one of only about a half dozen entirely community sponsored radio stations in the country. KOTO is a Telluride treasure and we now boast an increasing number of listeners on the web at www.koto.org. I’m happy to host Travel Fun, my bimonthly talk radio show on travel there, a chatty program that features interviews with all kinds of exciting guests from the worlds of travel, beauty, fashion and more.
Choo-Chooing Through the Rockies in a Winter Wonderland
Art & Culture Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas Travel: Art & Culture Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Baltimore
Mid-Atlantic Discoveries: Baltimore
Historic Fell’s Point
When my boyfriend, Steve, asked me to accompany him to his brother’s wedding on the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I didn’t expect that the trip would grow into such a big travel week (actually more like ten days). But I should have known that that would be the case since the travel writer in me itched for new experiences and, of course, it takes more doing than one flight to reach the Outer Banks from Telluride. It’s rare that I can go to a place and just BE; instead I seek to live it fully, gathering all kinds of information along the way, jotting down notes, doing what I can to find the story.
We flew from Denver to Baltimore and since I had never visited this major hub, I decided it was a must-see. It did not disappoint me in the slightest. We stayed our first night together on the east coast at The Admiral Fell Inn, a historic property on Fell’s Point, Baltimore’s original port and Maryland’s first National Historic District. (The area was spared destruction in the late sixties after a grassroots effort prevented construction of a highway plumb through this now happening neighborhood. Can you imagine?)
Once dominated by ship building and commerce, today Fell’s Point is a charming harbor side district characterized by centuries-old buildings, eclectic shops, lively taverns and cobbled streets made from bricks of granite used for ship ballast. Goods once flowed through the wharves and warehouses of Fell’s Point with as many as eighteen shipyards operating in the area, building hundreds of vessels. Many of these structures have recently been converted into fun spaces for people to live and play; others, such as the taverns, have existed for ages.
French Provinces Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas: French Provinces Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Shopping Spas The Beach
by maribeth
Comments Off on Sizzling Sensations from Saint-Tropez
Sizzling Sensations from Saint-Tropez
Sexy Saint-Tropez
O.K., I mentioned Saint-Tropez a few posts ago and I’m still tapping into a well of exhilarating emotions. What a scintillating town! And all under the guise of an old fishing village that exudes a delicious combination of Provençal charm and Côte d’Azur pizazz. It’s both glitzy and real. To me, it’s one of the most picturesque and authentic tourist destinations in the world. It’s also a great place for shopping and gallery going, so be sure to meander within the maze of old streets to seek out your favorite boutique. K. Jacques, renowned maker of sandals, is most definitely one of mine. You’ll also find lots of great pottery shops, antique dealers and fashion-forward clothing and accessories boutiques tucked within this glamorous enclave.
Hotel Byblos: A Saint-Tropez Classic
The celebrated Hotel Byblos is still the magical place to be for lodging, dining, drinks, spa treatments or lolling on the beach (hiding behind designer sunglasses in a skimpy little number, bien sur). The whole establishment is awash with cheerful, fresh colors characteristic of Provence and the French Riviera. The hotel has clearly not spared a dime in recent refurbishments since most of the rooms have been beautifully decorated in luxurious fabrics from leading French names Canovas, Frey and Lelievre. Here your beach experience is extended in bathrooms beautified with Italian marble, exotic tiles and polished pebbles. For further pampering, visit The Byblos Spa that features a host of treatments created exclusively by Sisley Cosmetics for Byblos. A stay here (and to Saint-Tropez) is not complete without dining at Spoon Byblos where you can enjoy Mediterranean-inspired cuisine along with an international wine selection. An Alain Ducasse restaurant, the first Spoon, opened over ten years ago in Paris, a highly successful concept that has been replicated in several other countries.
Hotels & Lodging Travel: Hotels & Lodging The Beach Travel
by maribeth
Comments Off on Golfing and Much More in Puerto Rican Paradise
Golfing and Much More in Puerto Rican Paradise
Gran Melia Puerto Rican Paradise
How about zipping off to an island Shangri-La where you can enjoy great food and golf? Of course such a trip would involve lots of other activities including relaxing by the pool or beneath a flower-draped pergola, spa going, tennis playing or even participating in a Salsa or Merengue dance class. A good friend, who also happens to be a very discriminating traveler, recently discovered Gran Melia Golf Resort Puerto Rico, a breathtaking and luxurious enclave in Puerto Rico that embraces one of the most gorgeous sites of the Caribbean. The resort’s two 18-hole golf courses are so picturesque that you might find it hard to keep your eye on the ball! Both have been designed by PGA-legend Tom Kite and are located at the hotels’s Trump International Golf Club (Click on that link to see some awesome photos of the courses!) Be sure to ask about their terrific offers valid now through December 22nd (must book by November 30th). The hotel also opens to PR’s largest-lagoon-style pool, a heavenly kingdom lush with flora, perfect for swimmers, golfers and loungers alike.
Gran Melia Golf Resort Puerto Rico, 200 Coco Beach, 787-809-1770, www.gran-melia-puerto-rico.com
One of Many Delightful Bars and Lounges to Enjoy After a Round of Golf
