Snowmass Slated for Another Culinary Crescendo

Serving Up a Summertime Salad in Snowmass

I love our mountain towns, especially in the summer when the village squares open themselves to all sorts of food and wine and art and music festivals. I kicked off the summer early June at the Snowmass Chili Pepper & Brew Fest and was dazzled by the number of foodies and chili aficionados I met at that event. Boy, there’s some serious competition going on among those cookoff chefs, many of whom travel the country to serve up their prized dishes to fans like me. I’ll be reporting on that in more detail next spring in time for next year’s Chili Fest.

Snowmass is going off again this weekend with even more delectable eats and libations and most likely a more high-stepping crowd (especially now that all the second homeowners are in residence). The village of Aspen’s neighboring town provides an ideal setting for the Snowmass Culinary & Arts Festival that’s taking place Friday, July 22 through Saturday, July 23. Be sure to arrive by Thursday night in order to take in the free evening concert on Fanny Hill, a perfect outdoor venue created by the slope of the mountain on one of Snowmass’s renowned cruiser runs. Otis Taylor, an American blues musician legend, is playing at this year’s concert, so you’ll not want to miss it.

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Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa: Spirit of the Southwest in the Rockies

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa

Can’t decide whether you want to vacation in the Southwest or the mountains? How about choosing a place of lodging where you enjoy the spirit and landscapes of both? Check out Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, a lovely southwestern-inspired adobe retreat set within the majestic San Juan Mountains, just an hour from Telluride, Colorado. Situated in the charming little town of Ridgway (featured in John Wayne films such as “True Grit”), I often recommend Chipeta as an excellent base for visiting the many interesting sites and towns that pepper southwestern Colorado and southern Utah.

If you travel further into the mountains from Ridgway, you can easily explore the historic old mining towns of Telluride, Ouray and Silverton. If you head toward Montrose, you can hit the Ute Indian Museum, a well-worth-the-stop attraction that showcases one of Colorado’s most complete collections of Ute ceremonial and traditional artifacts. Just on the other side of Montrose, plan to spend at least a half day at Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, a stunning and somewhat spooky site that provokes nearly as many oohs and aahs as the Grand Canyon. And within a two-hour drive you can find yourself amidst the striking red rock of Moab and other parts of southern Utah in addition to Arches National Park and Canyonlands.

Since there’s so much to visit in the area and most of the lodging at Chipeta includes condo-type units, you’ll likely want to check in here for a week. Plan at least a couple of relaxing rest days where you can stay put at this warm and welcoming lodge just to loll by the pool or enjoy a treatment in their spa.

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

View from the Porch of Chipeta's Four Corners Cafe

Whether you’re staying at the lodge or just passing through, a stop at Chipeta’s Four Corners Cafe for dinner or drinks is a must. Here you’ll be enchanted by the striking vistas provided from the top-floor location of this casual restaurant and bar. Inside, the scene serves up heaps of southwestern charm within its desert rose-colored interior. As the sun sinks beneath the mountains, you’re bathed in pink light most evenings whether you’re seated inside or out.

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

The Sunny Interior of the Four Corners Cafe

Indeed this heartwarming lodge is aptly named. It’s called Chipeta, in honor of the lovely wife of Chief Ouray, head of the Ute Indians that once inhabited this land, a gentle woman that eventually became “queen” of both the whites and the Utes of the region. Embracing the rich diversity of this part of the country is what Chipeta, the lodge and the beloved Native American figure, are all about.

Chipeta Sun Lodge & Spa, Ridgway, Colorado, 800-633-5868, www.chipeta.com

July is a wonderful time to visit Chipeta Sun Lodge and its Four Corners Cafe, especially this year with such a rockin’ Ridgway Concert Series lineup. Free concerts take place every Thursday throughout the month from 6p.m. ‘til dark in Ridgway’s Town Park. What a great way to kick off the weekend!

Gateway Canyons: One Big Discovery

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Oasis

The Kiva Pool: My Own Special Sanctuary

I returned to Gateway Canyons recently and became even more enchanted by this magnificent site than when I first visited this resort two and a half years ago. Clearly they’d been busy at Gateway throughout this period, cultivating and refining the soothing oasis that has been created within the awe-inspiring red rocks of this unique southwestern Colorado location. Indeed, Gateway Canyons is well on its way to being a world-class resort. And certainly Gateway Canyons owner and founder of the Discovery Channel, John Hendricks, must feel proud about how his burgeoning resort has more than added to the beauty of this already spectacular setting.

Although just a two-hour (and quite scenic) drive from Telluride and Grand Junction, getting to Gateway can require a bit of an effort. But to me, this only adds to the appeal of this lovely resort. I can’t ever imagine it overrun by tourists and that certainly wasn’t the case when I stayed here a couple of weeks ago during peak time. This enabled me to while away peaceful hours by the Kiva Pool, sipping lemonade and eventually a prickly pear cactus daiquiri as I leafed through magazines. A quick dip in the pool’s cool, saline water allowed me to lounge in the desert heat until the surrounding rocks soaked up the sum of the day’s blistering sun. Ahhhh, that’s what I call relaxation.

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13 Jun 2011, 2:30pm
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Fun this Summer and Year-Round at The Curtis

Curtis Philosophy and a Nod to the Beatles

Curtis Philosophy and a Nod to the Beatles

Who says summer fun is all about building castles in the sand, running through sprinklers or taking a dip in a secret water hole? Sure, those activities can provide many hours of giggles and entertainment, but when was the last time you checked into a hotel that really made you smile? And smile. And smile. And smile.

Kids on vacation and weary business travelers alike can’t help being endeared to The Curtis, a Doubletree Hotel, located in downtown Denver. A stay at The Curtis leaves an indelible mark on your funny bone–and every other sensitive part of your body–from the moment you spot their giant building blocks sign that say “all together now” to when you’re back home recalling your fun-filled visit at this unique property.

To me, some of the best hotels are ones that provide a memorable experience, a positive stay that you can’t easily create at home. The colorful and cheery Curtis does this and more. You can just sashay through a Laugh In-like set or pay closer attention to the Light Brite artwork and oversized wooden game board in their lobby. Here it’s also fun to check out the video art that displays favorite retro games and the Cartoon Network playing on the T.V. You can catch up on pop culture trivia in the library or drink a retro soda at the 5 & Dime and nibble on one of the hotel’s fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies on this level as well. If you’re indecisive about personal or professional doings, just ask to play rock, paper, scissors with the frond desk attendant. Head to your room and the real fun begins.

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26 May 2011, 3:10pm
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Dreaming of Deauville

Distinctly Deauville

Distinctly Deauville

With Deauville and the G8 summit in the news right now, I’ve found myself dreaming of this princely Norman town by the sea. How I loved to go there for weekend getaways from Paris, especially during spring when the bucolic scenery of Normandy—this renowned apple-and-cheese region of France—is most verdant.

Northern Riviera Splendor

Northern Riviera Splendor

A speedy two-and-a-half-hour drive from the capital, Deauville rates high on the list of favorite Parisian weekend destinations. Aside from socializing, gambling, and playing golf, the favorite thing to do in this pristine seaside resort is to walk along les planches, one of the most famous boardwalks on earth. Even on blustery days you can spot pleasure-seekers strolling along as the wind snaps at the myriad brightly colored parasols and their thick sashes of contrasting hues.

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Aspen/Snowmass Lodging and Dining Picks for this Summer

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You'd Think It's Saint-Tropez

The Viceroy Pool at Snowmass: You’d Think It’s Saint-Tropez

I often feel that Vail has tons of hotels to choose from whereas Aspen’s selection seems more limited. That’s just my opinion. Aspen is smaller than Vail in any event. And in Aspen—especially at Snowmass—I think a lot of people like to rent big, luxury homes.

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

Kissing Kiddies at the Viceroy

There’s still more than enough lodging options to choose from though, particularly since some terrific properties have opened up in Aspen and Snowmass within the past few years. The Viceroy wins hands down as my favorite lodging option in Snowmass. I reported on it a year ago in my story, Sleek and Sustainable:  Two Stellar Colorado Properties. I returned there at the end of this ski season and found it to be even more enjoyable second time around. Clearly, they’re off and running and word has spread that the Viceroy rates high as the most fashionable place to stay in Snowmass.

With all its swanky allure, the Viceroy also seems to be a most inviting property for families. This last time I lolled outside in one of their cabanas, sipping an après ski cocktail in ski boots and a down puffy with my hunny, while two families with kids romped about in the heated pool. Nearby a bunch of guys hung out at the hot tub, sipping beers and offering up celebratory toasts to whatever occasion brought them together. As the snow fell softly down around me, I couldn’t help but wonder how fantastic it would be to experience this pool scene beneath a blazing summer sun. The photos that accompany this story give us a clue.

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The Elegance of Paris in Our Nation’s Capital: The Fairfax at Embassy Row

Cherry Blossoms at the Jefferson Memorial

Cherry Blossoms at the Jefferson Memorial

It’s been over a week that the mountain closed here in Telluride and the town has already slowed down to its sleepy off-season mode. Many people have hit the road in search of warmer climates. Others (like me) are using this quiet time to catch up on work that had been shelved during the busy winter season. Fortunately there’s still fun to be had nearby since I just returned from a long weekend of skiing at Beaver Creek and Snowmass. My final spring ski fling will be in Aspen over Easter.

Still I’m feeling the itch to visit cities such as Paris or Washington D.C., two great capitals that are especially resplendent this time of year. I’ve often been to Washington in (late) spring since it’s an easier trip than crossing the Atlantic; and in Paris I’ve lived through nearly a dozen printemps. Flowers bloom bountifully in April in both cities, making spring the perfect season for strolling vast boulevards while crisscrossing in and out of world-renowned museums. This year, due to the disasters in Japan, there was more talk than ever about D.C.’s cherry blossoms, great puffs of beauty that surely provoked more emotion than usual. (I haven’t seen the cherry blossoms in D.C. but I did experience them in all their splendor nearly two decades ago in Kyoto, and I remember them as heartbreakingly beautiful then.)

Both Paris and D.C. humble you year-round by their manicured landscapes and grand and glorious architecture. This stateliness may be considered distinctly Washingtonian or typiquement parisien. Or sometimes a little of both. (As most of us know, it was a Frenchman, Pierre-Charles L’Enfant, appointed by President George Washington in 1791, who designed our capital city.) The history and tradition of Washington D.C. may be more recent than that of Paris but a visit to this glistening beacon along the Potomac still imbues you with the spirit of the past as well as the omnipotent force of the present.

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Romantic Getaway in the Heart of Utah’s Ski Country

Schussing at Sundance

Schussing at Sundance

Romantic getaways can take many forms. For my boyfriend, Steve, and me an escape centered around skiing works well for us, no matter what destination we chose. This time we skied four days in Utah, testing and comparing four different mountains, a terrific outdoor adventure that made our many candlelight and fireside moments feel all the more rewarding.

It’s great when you share a passion with someone and for both of us, skiing creates a powerful bond whether here in Telluride or at other resorts. But as with all aspects of a relationship, compromises must be made. (Hear that Steve!?! Only kidding. Hubba-hubba.) Fortunately we were able to strike the right balance during this trip, one that allowed Steve to obtain his share of challenging skiing and me to fulfill my all-important quest for an authentic travel experience.

Romance, Sundance Style

Romance, Sundance Style

Kudos to Steve for having selected Sundance Resort, the dream that Robert Redford realized in the mountains of Utah over four decades ago. We made Sundance our base and explored Park City Mountain Resort and Deer Valley Resort from there. (The Canyons came on the last day after spending a night in Park City.) We quickly concurred that that was the right formula for us since settling into Sundance made us feel like we were holed up in our own private retreat. (The big resorts at the bigger ski areas offer a more look-at-all-we-have-to-offer-you-here-in-the-mountains stay.)

We like to keep it simple, and at Sundance we discovered a warm and genuine atmosphere that celebrates the spirit of the West and its mountains. We immensely enjoyed our Mountain Suite punctuated by rough-hewn woods and warm, woolen accents. Here we made roaring fires (no gas flames!) and sipped hot chocolate in the quietude of our cozy space. But we didn’t stay home long since we discovered much to do and admire within this beguiling resort. Oh how our senses were tickled at every turn. We spent our first night whooping it up at the Owl Bar, a warm, western saloon of sorts that boasts great live music and tasty pub food. Best of all though it exudes a marvelous mountain panache that can only be achieved by the right mix of locals and visitors.

The ski hill at Sundance appeared more regional—at least on the busy Saturday we were there—consisting of lots of school kids from the nearby big city and its environs. They reminded me of the snowsports enthusiasts I encountered at the little ski area I grew up on in western Massachusetts. I felt totally rattled by them, mostly because these novice skiers and boarders crisscrossed the bunny slopes like rabbits darting about for food. Steve and I both agreed that it’s likely best to ski Sundance during the week, something that was confirmed when we left the resort the following Monday when we noticed that the parking lot was still empty after 10 a.m.,  This made us feel wistful about coming back on a weekday especially since Steve ended up rating Sundance as having the best expert terrain of all the resorts we tested throughout our trip. Steve had sampled most of these runs before I headed out on our Sundance ski day. I thought they were awesome, too, until I I found myself—mid-way down one of the runs—doing loopty-loops in a gully made even more disorienting by flat light. Here, I experienced my first meltdown of the season, but you have to have at least one on a ski vacation, don’t you?

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