Colorado Denver Outdoor Adventures Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Denver Outdoor Adventures Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
by maribeth
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Gotta Love Colorado
Ready, Get Set, Go!
It’s not every day you see the above scene in a major city. Indeed, Denver’s Big Air event marked the first city-based World Cup big air happening in the U.S. Leave it to Denver, the mile-high city and gateway to the Rockies. Dutch rider Rocco Van Straten wooed a crowd of 14,000, taking leap after leap on this giant course to win the Snowboard FIS World Cup last night. You can view coverage of the competition this weekend on NBC.
Denver's Towering 106-Foot High Slope---Why Not?
Colorado boasts a lot of firsts, in fact, especially when it comes to snowsports. This year’s X Games, which began today in Aspen, showcase three events—ski halfpipe and snowboard and ski slopestyle—that will likely become added to the 2014 Winter Olympics. Check out the story in Tuesday’s New York Times. It’s not the first time this has happened and I’m sure it won’t be the last.
I better tell my ski instructor/snowbiking buddy, Dave Valentine, to perfect his skills. Heck, both skiing and cycling are Olympic sports—why not snowbiking?
You can snowbike in Telluride with an instructor—or go out on your own once you’ve gone with an instructor. Contact Telluride Ski & Snowboard School to line up a lesson. I’ve actually taught many snowbike lessons myself; they’re terrific fun and a great equalizer if you have people of different (ski or snowboard) abilities looking to go out and play on the mountain together for a few hours.
Thank you to Oliver Kraus and Tom Kelly, from FIS and U.S. Snowboarding, for the use of the above images.
Colorado Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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Baby It’s Cold Outside
Columbia’s Reach the Peak Omni-Heat Down Jacket
Brrrrrrr. There’s no doubt about it—it’s January here in the Rockies. We had brutally cold weather over New Year’s, then a bit of a reprieve, and now the thermometer has dipped way low again the past couple of days and nights. And I love it! These frigid temperatures are ideal for preserving our snow as well as our hearty mountain-dweller spirit. (Chilly days on the hill make for even more cozy nights at home.)
You must, however, be prepared for such frosty weather since there’s no fooling around with mother nature. I had my coldest day on the mountain (ever!) in Telluride over New Year’s, yet I more than endured it by dressing properly and taking lots of hot chocolate breaks. Temperatures hovered around zero much of the time, creating a misty, ethereal effect unlike anything I had ever experienced on the slopes. I never would have ventured out on such glacial days on my own, but since I was booked for private lessons with familiar clients, my ski instructor duties kicked in. (And boy, was I glad it did or else I would have missed a very magical moment on the mountain.)
Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
by maribeth
Comments Off on Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!
Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!
Santa Skis Telluride
The weather outside is not exactly frightful. At least not in Telluride today. In fact, temperatures here over the weekend rose to spring-like conditions, prompting people to peel off layers throughout Christmas Day. Although we didn’t get as much of the fluffy white stuff as was forecasted, Santa was still able to find some nice powder stashes on the mountain during his annual visit.
Colorado Pot Pourri Skiing & Snowboarding: Pot Pourri Skiing & Snowboarding
by maribeth
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SKI Magazine and Me
Posing for SKI Magazine in T-ride
I’m in upstate New York now where it snowed on Monday. I was happy to see that it has started snowing in Colorado this week as well—indeed, it’s time the fluffy white stuff starts to accumulate. I’m not thinking much about skiing these days, however, since I’m still in writer’s mode. I’m actually headed to New York City to stir up some publishing contacts for “A Tour of the Heart,” a travel memoir/love story I’ve been working on. (This work, which is not surprisingly set in France, explores the juxtaposition of two major themes in my life: European sophistication and self empowerment through sports.) Right now I’m keeping my bags light and am mostly packing accessories (scarves, baubles and tops) along with my MacAir and a handful of papers—it promises to be a busy few days. I feel eons away from the mid-winter days in Telluride when lots of layering and a backpack stuffed to capacity are the norm.
Schussing for SKI Magazine
Yet skiing is never far from my thoughts. And I’ve had so many people comment on a recent SKI Magazine article that I have to fess up. Yes, that’s me featured in the October issue of SKI Magazine. It’s the gear issue and the story emphasizes how you can improve your technique with the right boot fit, foot beds, canting and other essential equipment adjustments. The piece mentions that I’m a travel writer, ski instructor and shopping consultant, something that might raise eyebrows in anything but a ski publication. (How I love the eclectic lives most of us live in the mountains!) Anyway, if you have this issue in a stack on your coffee table, you may want to check it out. If not, know that I’ll be providing my own tips this season on how to outfit yourself on and off the slopes with both European styling and American know-how. Don’t you think it’s great to mix up your life? As always, I welcome any comments and/or tips you may want to share.
Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
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Fall in the Rockies: Pick the Day, Pick the Season
Gondyleaves at Snowmass
We were walloped with our first big snowstorm of the season earlier this week. It happened as usual––albeit a little behind schedule––and within twenty-four hours we were catapulted from glorious fall days into the depths of winter. Either way, it looks beautiful here in the Rockies and it seems as though we’ll be spared the bleak, grey days that sometimes occur between falling leaves and snowfall. Hopefully it was just enough to inspire folks around the country to think about booking their ski vacations in Colorado. (The best deals are offered now, so don’t wait.)
Colorado Mountain Living New York Pot Pourri Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies Travel: Mountain Living New York Rockies Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride Travel
by maribeth
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March Madness Runs Into April
KOTO Street Dance in Telluride: One of Many Mountain Celebrations to Mark the End-of-the-Season
Wow, what a month it has been. It’s been at least that long since I posted a story on this blog. So what have I been doing? Skiing, of course. Mostly teaching skiing actually, nearly every day up until our closing here in Telluride which took place this past Easter Sunday, April 4th. I’m just now beginning to feel alive again. I say almost since I’m still consuming above-average amounts of caffeine but I know more energetic days lie ahead.
I’m much better than I was earlier in the week when I logged endless hours on my couch, too tired to read but content to watch copious amounts of T.V. in between long stretches of sleep. (I think my cats registered more awake time than I these past days.) And dare I take inventory of all my eating? I’ve been devouring the scalloped potatoes and chocolate left over from Easter, and by Tuesday afternoon I found myself whipping up a vanilla milkshake and sucking it down from the indented cushions of my couch faster than Oprah could say “We’ll be right back.” When I began to compulsively channel surf between Dancing with the Stars, CNN and Bravo, I worried that I might never feel normal again. But miraculously my cravings for sugar and fat diminished by Wednesday along with my desire to escape profoundly into the boob tube. Last night I even cracked a book, “Abundance: A Novel of Marie Antoinette,” that I can’t wait to get back to tonight. (I find it impossible to read during ski season when evenings mean either falling asleep by 9 or partying until 11.)
I don’t know how so many people pack it up as soon as the mountain closes. They head to Moab, Mexico and the Islands or embark upon adventures such as a rafting trip on the Salt River. These people must be largely motivated by the thrill of switching out ski boots for flip flops. I guess I’m just a softy. I need to recharge.
Anyone that works in the hospitality industry can tell you that March can be insane in the mountains. As a ski instructor, you have to be ON all the time throughout the sunniest and stormiest days of spring break (which this year lasted most of March right up until Easter). It doesn’t matter if your knees are killing you, your quads burn beyond belief or if you don’t have an ounce of gas left in your tank, it’s our job to spread rainbows and sunshine and to make sure that everyone has the best experience ever.
And what a great end-of-season it was here in T-ride. The snow fell generously and often, right up until the end, interspersed with glorious days of warmth and sun. I taught mostly private ski lessons to a terrific array of clients, some of whom promise to be future guests on Travel Fun. I delighted in teaching Josie, a sweetheart of a thirteen-year old, a first-timer that I worked into almost a complete parallel by the end of two days. Her parents, Kevin and Corinna, own Antlers & Anglers, an exclusive service that arranges hunting and fishing trips to alluring destinations around the world. I’m looking forward to having her dad on the program to talk about big game hunting and more. Perhaps an unusual sort of topic for my show, but certainly very interesting nonetheless. I had a blast with twin six-year olds, Max and Carrie, for a week and through this family, I met novelist Martha McPhee. (I also skied with her son Jasper.) Martha has a new book, “Dear Money,” coming out in June. This work showcases the financial world of New York where Martha lives, so it might be a hoot to have her on Travel Fun to talk about the ins and outs of the Big Apple’s high rolling landscape. I’m sure she can provide a few good restaurant recommendations as well. Martha is the daughter of the prolific nonfiction writer John McPhee and the sister of novelist Jenny McPhee. She’s married to poet Mark Svenvold who, along with Martha and the rest of the crew, enjoyed doing a bunch of nice turns in Telluride during one of our best weeks of March. (In case you’re wondering, Martha and I talked more about skiing than writing.)
My friend Kate Betts, renowned fashion and style editor, was also vacationing in T-ride during this time. We managed to work in a Travel Fun interview together which I’ll soon post here as a podcast. Kate is still a contributing writer for TIME Magazine but we mostly chatted about her recent project, a book about Michelle Obama, entitled “Everyday Icon: Michelle Obama and The Power of Style.” “It’s really about why style matters,” Kate says.
In the midst of all this activity, I was asked to participate in a photo shoot for SKI Magazine, an undertaking that occupied nearly two day’s of my time both on the snow and in Bootdoctors, the Telluride sport specialist that is the focal point of this piece. Bootdoctors has gained great recognition for fixing people’s alignments (and their skiing!) by adjusting their equipment—mainly ski boots—to compensate for their own physiological imperfections. I was selected certainly not for my skiing prowess or on-camera presence but as a prime example of a knock-kneed woman. I shared the shoot with Don Hannah, longtime Telluride resident, fellow KOTO DJ, all around nice guy and brother to Daryl. Don was chosen to represent your average bow-legged man. This was no glamour shoot, especially since I was so caught up with my work that I hadn’t even thought about having a pedicure for the shots (and Internet footage!), many of which focused on an extensive custom boot-fitting for my feet. To think that my gnarly ski instructor feet are to appear rough-hewn and unpolished in a national magazine by next ski season— quel horreur! Don and I were also documented skiing our worst knock-kneed/bow-legged form on Telluride’s fine slopes. Don nailed my sentiments exactly when he said, “I’ve been reading SKI Magazine since I was a kid and now that I finally get to appear in it, I come across looking like a dork.” Oh well, Lindsey Vonn I am not.
So now it’s time to organize my personal space and to pick up my writer’s life. I’m on my tenth load of laundry this week and am chipping away at my e-mails. Fortunately it will be a slow transition since I have a couple of trips planned to Vail and Aspen before the month is out. You can read about some of my post- season adventures from last year at Skiing and Spa-Going: Part One in Vail, Colorado and at Aspen Highlights. I’m looking forward to free skiing and not having to instruct or look out for anyone’s well-being but my own. I bet I’ll miss the silly chairlift games and heartwarming connections though.
This is indeed a funny life, trading off between ski instructing and writing. But as much as it’s a juggling act, I can’t imagine giving it up. There’s nothing like balancing out the mental with the physical, especially when you live inthe Rocky Mountains. I wonder what Marie Antoinette would think.
Note that April is full of end-of-the-season activities at Colorado’s top resorts. Aspen Mountain closes this Sunday, April 11 but will reopen the weekends of April 17-18 and 24-25. Beaver Creek closes this Sunday as well, however Vail’s spring fling kicks into high gear April 12 with their Spring Back to Vail. Search the Internet for lots more great skiing and fun in Colorado through early May. You’ll find some terrific bargains, too. Be sure to pack your costumes and most colorful spring attire!
Skiing Bunnies, Mary Dawn and Michael, Hop on the Quad in T-ride on Easter Sunday
The Crowd Gathers at Gorronno's in Telluride for a Closing Day Concert by Drew Emmitt
Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Colorado Ski School Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
by maribeth
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Ski Instructors in Training: Precision Skiing 201
C.T. in Action
Precision Skiing 201. Wow, even that title is intimidating. This is the name of a PSIA (Professional Ski Instructors of America) Clinic I took this winter. The numbers 201 indicate that it’s part of the training for Level 2 Certification, a distinction of excellence largely achieved by being able to ski and teach perfect parallel turns on a variety of terrain. As for the precision skiing part, nobody is more precise about technique than the ski geeks at PSIA. And since I’m a member of PSIA, I try hard to be as geeky about skiing as the best of them. (It’s rare that a ski instructor has the luxury of mindlessly cruising down the mountain. Instead we’re plagued with contemplating every aspect of our skiing from angulation vs. inclination to whether we’re fore or aft; well, you get the idea.)
Sometimes I shake my head and I still can’t believe I’m a ski instructor. Whenever I sense fear in a student I like to share that it wasn’t until I became a ski instructor that I stopped having butterflies in my belly the first couple of runs of the day. The best way to conquer fear is to face it head on. So now here I was feeling like a kid in school—butterflies and all—in my first PSIA clinic of the season.
I admitted to C. T. (Chris Thomsen), a PSIA examiner, a Telluride ski instructor and our clinician, that I felt somewhat jittery (about what I’m not sure, perhaps the scrutiny of it all). His reassuring smile and warm, friendly approach helped to put me at ease. Already I was grateful ten times over that I was able to take this clinic in Telluride, my home mountain. (For all the others, I had to travel to other destinations within the Rockies.) C.T. took charge of our group of ten ski instructors much like we strive to do in our regular lessons.
After a couple of warm up runs, we launched into a few drills, just the kind of thing we might introduce to our students, depending on what they needed to work on. We began with shuffling through our parallel turns on a blue run. Not only did I feel goofy doing this (and I’m sure I looked just as silly), but it also proved to be a bit of a challenge, especially on the steep pitches. I soon learned that you could only properly do this maneuver when in perfect balance, the holy grail of good skiing.
I was counting on this exuberant burst of energy (as if doing a perfect turn isn’t difficult enough, imagine shuffling through many of them) to warm me up. This brutally cold and snowy day became even harder to endure with every frequent stop. Explanation, instruction and demonstration is typically a huge part of any lesson, particularly a program like today’s. Still, I reminded myself that I was a Professional Ski Instructor of America, part of the hearty core of American society that can endure harsh outdoor elements, all for the betterment of mankind, or at least to improve my skiing and to help others gain the skills that would make a difference in their own on-snow performance.
C.T., a wiry guy of slight build, exuded tremendous enthusiasm and boundless energy. I wondered why he wasn’t getting cold. I felt chilled to the bone and I’m padded with at least five times the amount of body fat as him. But then I admitted to myself that he was more of a professional than me, fully realizing that his task at hand was far more important than frozen toes. Careful to critique everyone’s skiing and demos as they passed, he possessed a remarkable skill for zeroing in on the component that needed to be corrected in order to make a difference in our skiing. Indeed he was blessed with the keen eye of an examiner.
“Tip before you turn,” he called out to me as I completed my own series of dynamic parallel demos. “In modern skiing, you tip your skis on edge and then input rotary,” he explained. “That will give your skis support rather than sliding down the hill.” I found myself thinking “tip and turn” the whole rest of the day.
Just like in a group lesson, C.T. was sure to give us attention both as individuals and as a group, and in turn we supported each other in a similar fashion. Everyone had the same goal: to work on our skiing and to learn how to impart this knowledge to others. The geek factor grew throughout each drill which also included balancing our poles on our wrists as though we were carrying a large tippy tray down the slope and dragging the poles on the snow. The goal was the same for all: establishing a perfectly balanced stance that would enable us to be most efficient in our skiing. As with our students, we found that different things resonated with different people.
At lunch we talked about the PSIA Teaching Model which includes the following format: introduction, determine goals, create lesson plan, present and demonstrate information, check for understanding, practice and review. For kids, it’s play, drill, adventure. There was much talk about the CAP Model which is an acronym for cognitive, affective and physical, stages of development that one must especially keep in mind when teaching children.
Our afternoon consisted of practice on the bumps and an endless array of wedge christie demos, something I found to be onerous on blue terrain. (Skis—especially today’s shaped ones—automatically want to glide into a parallel rather than push into a wedge. If only novice skiers could get this feeling right off, they’d save themselves a lot of effort and soreness.)
C.T. chatted about DIRT which stands for duration, intensity, rate and timing. By now I was feeling like how my students must feel at the end of a full-day lesson: weary and somewhat on overload yet quite satisfied. My skiing had been tweaked. I was now thinking more about “short leg, long leg” on my dynamic parallel turns and thanks to C.T., I had stuffed a bunch more drills and teaching aids into my bag of tricks.
He cheerfully thanked all of us for our attention at the base of the mountain. His exuberance had never waned. For a geek, he’s one heck of an outgoing guy. I would do well to emulate his approach. I think PSIA is on to something.
Thank you to fellow ski instructor, Todd Brown, for the above photo.
Colorado Restaurants Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride: Colorado Restaurants Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride
by maribeth
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Playing Tourist in T-ride
Telluride's Famous Steeps
I read somewhere a week ago that we’re beyond the halfway point of the ski season. My heart sunk. Why do all good things have to go by so fast? The good news is that our snow is piling up (even beyond some of our wildest expectations!) and the best of the season lies before us.
I had been taking my own personal ski inventory these past few weeks and although my number of skier days on the mountain is significant, I still hadn’t had one complete “free ski” day yet this year. Between my ski instructing and training and hours at my desk, I hadn’t been able to block a whole day on the mountain to myself. Sure, I had snatched a couple hours here and there when I wasn’t teaching the skills of a wedge christie or fine tuning my own basic and dynamic parallel, but I hadn’t yet enjoyed a whole day at Telluride Ski Resort for myself. It was time to play tourist on my neighborhood hill.
Plus there was Alpino Vino, a new restaurant on the mountain (which had actually opened last year), that everyone was buzzing about and I hadn’t even poked my head in to check it out. I was way overdue for Bushwacker and Plunge, super long groomed blacks synonymous with Telluride, two of the most epic ski runs in the country. And the idea of delighting in a leisurely mountaintop lunch in a new, happening restaurant made me feel like I was embarking upon a trip to a whole other destination. (Not that I ever tire of T-ride, mind you.)
Certainly the best part of this was that my boyfriend, Steve, was to join me for the whole day. We love skiing a few runs here and there together, but for me to “get him” for an entire day is a real treat. (Not only am I busy, but it’s not every weekend that he wants to dial it down to be content skiing with me. As a Telluride ski instructor, I can hold my own, yet I’m still not the hotshot he is on T-ride’s multitude of black and double black diamond runs.)
We headed straight for Chair 9, a local’s favorite, where virtually every run—black or double black—plummets into town. My first turns felt great but as I approached the super steep pitch of the Plunge, I had a few oh-shit moments that enabled me to better identify with the fear that hits my students as they test their skills on everything from the Magic Carpet to a blue run. Forever the ski instructor, I pushed the play button in my head which told me to maintain a balanced stance, GET FORWARD, tip and turn, flex and extend, angulate and GET FORWARD.
Steve bombed ahead of me, obviously forgetting that I had only skied about two blacks so far this season. “How did I do?” I dared to ask once I caught up to him.
“You can ski better than that,” he answered. So much for positive reinforcement. Then as if in an attempt to make things better he added “you need to get out and free ski more.”
I skied off without comment, highly unusual behavior for me which in itself told him a lot.
He picked up the conversation on the next chairlift ride, in an effort to smooth things over. “Really, hun, all you need to do is ski the tough stuff more.”
“Yes and I also need to write more, read more, stretch more, sleep more, there’s a lot more I need to be doing in my life.” I was almost wishing I had my own ski instructor with me to give me kudos, something most of us are really good at at Telluride Ski and Snowboard School. But I gave Steve a nudge on the chair and a wry smile, determined not to let it ruin our day.
Alpino Vino: My Refuge
We skied Bushwacker, another Plunge and a few other favorites before taking the Gold Hill lift up to See Forever and skiing down to Alpino Vino. It was 1:30 p.m. by now and the restaurant was hopping. And even though it was a snowy day, people were even seated outside on the front deck, clearly having a festive time, warmed by heaters and fine wine. We were lucky to score a table inside right by the window; although after having looked around a bit I realized that every table within this cozy enclave offered spectacular views.
Cathy, the bubbly maîtresse d’hôtel, greeted us warmly. Dressed in elegant alpine attire from Alpen Schatz, Telluride’s exclusive alpine boutique, she proceeded to tell us about the house specialties which include a selection of fine cured meats and cheeses, panini, insalata caprasi and antipasto side accompaniments such as oven roasted yellow tomatoes and garlic and herb marinated Tuscan olives. She also recommended we chose a tasting flight so that we could sample a few different wines. Our day was already looking up!
Andrew, Alpino Vino’s sommelier, quickly presented us with our selection of nectars, Italian Whites for me, Tuscan Reds for Steve. I felt giddy by now, not yet from the wine but simply by just sitting within this tony mountainside nook, complete with white linen napkins and waiters donned in alpine garb, while I watched the snow falling gently outside and skiers powering down the narrow descent at the top of See Forever. Also Steve was finally beginning to let go and it was clear that he was adapting nicely to the idea of taking a hedonistic lunch in the middle of a super ski day. (He usually just grabs a hotdog, coke and a chocolate bar between double black diamond runs.)
A High-Mountain Feast
My Italian (the real deal, with family origins in the Dolomites—no wonder he’s such a damn good skier!) sweetheart really perked up when we were served an array of appetizing-looking plates. Our picture-perfect antipasto consisted of fine cheeses and cured meats, fresh bread, grissini, virgin olive oil, dried fruits and nuts, truffle honey, sherry mustard and rosemary chips. We weren’t sure what was wooing us more: the antipasto, the gorgonzola and tomato soup or the gigandes white beans, prepared with garlic and olive oil that we spread on toast like butter. Steve commented that he hadn’t tasted such fine meats since his last trip to the Italian Alps.
Our flight of wines accompanied each dish belllismo. And even though we rarely drink at lunch, we were enjoying all so much that we asked Andrew to serve us up another couple of ounces to finish off the cheese. He presented us with a taste of a thirty-year old Port and a Sauternes. By now we had slipped into full-on Euro mode and Steve and I commented to each other that this sort of wining and dining is standard practice in Europe.
We left an hour and a half later, high on having enjoyed superlative food and drink in the highest restaurant in the United States (elevation: 11,966 feet). Truly one of the best dining experiences offered in Telluride, we expressed great contentment at finally having had the chance to share such a moment together.
We skied off much more relaxed than how we had started our day. My turns felt better than ever, the tapes calmed in my head and we zipped down a half a dozen more favorite trails in the remaining hour of the day. We popped our skis off at 4:10 p.m. at the base of Lift 4 and gave each other a frozen, runny-nosed kiss.
Our last burst of energy warmed us enough to sit outside at the Hop Garden and enjoy a PBR in a plastic up. Steve had moved two of the standing space heaters close to our table and we sat closely together grooving to the musicians that strummed Grateful Dead and Pink Floyd tunes to the delight of the après-ski crowd. We giggled over the contrast between this near festival-like scene and the high-brow presentation of Alpino Vino. Clearly we enjoyed both worlds and all the rest that our glorious mountain provides.
It was fun to play tourist for a day in Telluride. Now I can approach my wedge turning with renewed enthusiasm. And, of course, eagerly await my next opportunity to steal a free ski day. And as always, work on my turns.
Alpino Vino, open daily for lunch and high-end snacks; it’s pricey but worth it.
Alpen Schatz, 307 E. Colorado Avenue; 970-728-4433, www.alpenschatz.com; visit my Shopping Page to find out about the special discount you can receive from Alpen Schatz.
Hop Garden, open daily for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; 970-728-7467.
Thank you to Randy Barnes and Brett Schreckengost for the above images.
