27 Jul 2010, 4:46pm
Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Rockies:
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The Penrose Room: Colorado’s Pièce de Résistance

Penrose Sculpture

Penrose Sculpture

To me, any connection between France and Colorado captures my attention tenfold. I’m passionate about both and you can tell from reading this blog that the gallic land and the Rocky Mountain state often serve as points of reference in my stories. I love the contrasts in the striking natural and manmade beauty between the two and I especially delight in showing that rich cultural and gastronomic offerings can be enjoyed both in the Old World and in the rugged corners of the American West. When the two come together, it’s truly magnifique!

The Broadmoor

The Broadmoor

A fine example of a perfect marriage of French savoir faire and American tradition may currently be experienced at the Penrose Room, the premiere restaurant of The Broadmoor, located in Colorado Springs, Colorado. For over ninety years this Grande Dame of the Rockies has distinguished itself as one of the finest resorts in the world and just this past year its top restaurant achieved five-star, five-diamond status. The Penrose Room now enjoys the distinction of the only Forbes Travel Guide (formerly Mobile Travel Guide) five-star restaurant in Colorado. Now that’s what I call putting Colorado on the map, at least in terms of food and wine. Only about twenty restaurants claim this standing in the U.S. including Charlie Trotter’s, Le Bernardin and The Inn at Little Washington, to name a few.

It should come as no surprise that the man behind this success is French, another great talent from across the pond that has learned how to respond to an increasingly discerning American diner and the demands that go with a big job at a big resort. Zee man is Bertrand Bouquin, Executive Chef of Penrose Room as well as Summit, another one of The Broadmoor’s fine restaurants.

Chef Bertrand Bouquin at Home in Colorado

Chef Bertrand Bouquin at Home in Colorado

I first met Bertrand a few years ago and was instantly impressed with his enthusiasm and dynamisme, an energy that he clearly brings to the dining experience at the Penrose Room where tradition and innovation reign supreme. Tableside service for the preparation of such classics as Caesar salad, Dover sole, cherries jubilee and other beloved dishes is still carried out with great elegance and skill. But you’ll also delight in an inventive cuisine that often showcases fine regional products accented with favorite French flavors. I was thrilled, for example, with my Tenderloin of Colorado Lamb, a rouleaux of succulent meat enhanced with wonderful saveurs of Provence. My hunny Steve, with whom I was lucky enough to share such a memorable feast, regaled in a Fresh Water Striped Bass with Morels.

From amuse bouche to the vanilla tuile that accompanied our dessert, we were utterly enchanted by our evening here. For me, experiencing a restaurant of this caliber is always part gastronomic adventure, part Broadway show. Yes, the entertainment value of such a memorable meal counts a lot, even—or should I say, especially—when the service is totally unobtrusive as is the case at the Penrose Room. I remember every detail from the little pillow propped up behind my back from the moment I sat down to the china being expeditiously removed from the heavy, gold damask tablecloth after the completion of each course. Everyone seemed to be in high spirits as I looked around the room. Truly ebullient. And how could you not? A jazz trio and vocalist kept the mood light and bubbly, just enough so that you couldn’t possibly take this temple of haute cuisine too seriously.

Steve and I held off until that delightful pause between main course and dessert before approaching the large dance floor that clearly has brought so much joy to peoples’ lives in this midnight blue dining room over the years. Once unleashed, however, we were thrilled to swing and sway beneath the immense crystal chandelier to the tunes of Norah Jones, Eric Clapton and Van Morrison before regaining our place at our table. Truly a scene from a movie, I thought. And it wasn’t an old, fuddy-duddy one either. From the pictures of the Penrose Room I saw ahead of time, I was fearful of the ambiance being a little too stiff and formal for our taste. Yet that was truly not the case.

Penrose Panache

Perfectly Penrose

I may be biased but I couldn’t help thinking that much of the attraction of this renowned restaurant could be attributed to a distinctive French flair. A certain panache, perhaps that same special something that pushed the Penrose Room into such an elite five-star group. I thought this as I witnessed the sun setting over the magnificent peaks of the Rocky Mountains way out beyond the dramatic decor of this grand dining room. Yes, of course, there’s an undeniable Colorado flavor as well.

Go to Wining and Dining in the Rockies to read more about Chef Bertrand Bouquin.

22 Jul 2010, 12:53pm
Art & Culture Mountain Living Music & Dance Shopping The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes

Vail Summer Fun: Enjoying the Ford Legacy Amidst Blooms and Tunes

Upper Alpine Pools and Aspen Trees at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens

Upper Alpine Pools and Aspen Trees at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens

Our mountain meadows and towns blossom into wondrous playgrounds almost as soon as the snow melts here in the Rockies.

It’s not always easy, however, to hike up to high alpine pastures to marvel at our summertime display of wildflowers. Even if we do, there’s little chance we could delight in the beauty of the mountain flora while being serenaded by a world-class orchestra. Yet this midsummer scenario is possible in the city of Vail.

Alpine Rock Garden

BFAG Alpine Rock Garden

Such was the case one morning recently when I strolled into the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens, a carefully crafted celebration of the beauty and diversity of alpine flora, open daily from sunrise to sunset, from snowmelt to snowfall, for all to see. Experiencing the gentle waterfalls, alpine ponds and rock gardens of this colorful site would have pleased me immensely on its own. But lucky me. Both times I meandered through these gardens and the nearby trails of Ford Park, I was wooed by the sound of music, the sound of the Philadelphia Orchestra to be exact. The butterflies—along with my step—appeared to bounce sprightly from flower bed to flower bed with each new stanza.

I quickly learned that the orchestra was rehearsing in the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, a marvelous outdoor venue, located next to the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. This little prelude prompted me to rearrange my schedule in order to attend an evening performance, one of many musical events put on by the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival through August 3rd.

I traded my sportswear and flip flops for a flouncy skirt and top and went hand in hand to the concert with my hunny who was also smartly dressed. And thank goodness we were. What a chic congregation! We both agreed that this is where we saw one of the greatest concentrations of tony folk—all fit, tanned and well turned out—in the Rockies. Most were of un certain age, which to us dispelled our previously held notion that you don’t see many older people in the mountains. (Really you don’t but if you’re going to see a good show of them, it’s likely to be at one of the many culturally- or intellectually-stimulating events that take place in Aspen and Vail during the summer.)

Bravo! at The Gerald Ford Amphitheater

Bravo! at the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater

The scene was perfectly charming. We bobbed between avid outdoor concert goers who clearly knew a thing or two about picnic-ing en élégance. (I spotted one golden-crusted quiche delicately dished out with a silver server by an attractive picnic goer.) The venue’s wine concession impressed me the most though. Never before had I seen such a variety of bottles served up so efficiently—complete with plastic wine bucket and glasses—for guests to bring back to their seats, both on the lawn and within the amphitheater. Grande classe. Truly this was not a popcorn and soda crowd, although these snacks sell here as well.

Phillie's View From the Stage

Phillie's View from the Stage

The notes from the concert continued to dance blissfully in our heads as we strolled out of the Ford Park on this beautiful summer’s eve. The vibrant, whimsical scene at the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens complemented the sophisticated setting of the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater to a T.

And throughout, the magnificent Rocky mountains stood as the backdrop for all.

One Sweet Boutique

One Sweet Boutique

Ford Park is located at the east end of Vail off Gore Creek Drive.

Know that the Vail International Dance Festival holds many of its performances at the Gerald Ford Amphitheater from July 27th through August 10th as well.

Don’t miss the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens Gift Shops.  The Schoolhouse at Betty Ford Alpine Gardens is open daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Visit this adorable old structure for a harvest of gift items, all on the garden theme. Their Alpine Treasures in-town gift shop in Vail Village is open year-round.

Our Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Two (Unknown) Lovers Hot Tubbing It in Ouray

Named for the chief of the Ute Indians, the little town of Ouray (pronounced your-ay) has become one of my favorite getaway destinations in the Rocky Mountains.  One might argue that this is because it’s only an hour’s drive from Telluride, but its appeal extends far beyond its proximity to my place of residence.  And I’ve hardly partaken in the two activities most associated with Ouray:  ice climbing and jeeping.

I’m drawn to Ouray for its striking natural beauty and the delightful mix of Rocky mountain charm and elegance that most of the town’s establishments exude.  It’s not unheard of to spot a couple of five-pointed bucks crossing Main Street in the middle of the afternoon.  Here the mountains plummet into this National Historic District claiming the unpaved backstreets as its foothills, the main street as its valley floor.  The views are so striking in this boxed canyon that Ouray is often referred to as The Little Switzerland of America, a moniker that you can hardly dispute as you gaze up to the jagged peaks that almost entirely encircle this old mining town where tourism is now king.

My boyfriend, Steve, and I have made it a tradition of sorts to spend a short weekend here at the onset of summer, two years in a row that we’ve both been beguiled by the authentic character of this old mountain town.  No fast foods and not a single stoplight either.  Instead Ouray claims bragging rights to a quaint collection of B & Bs and down-home lodges, a jumble of fun shops and restaurants, world-renowned hot springs and a gorgeous hotel that is itself worth the trip.

The Beautiful Beaumont

The Bodacious Beaumont

O.K., by now you know I love luxury hotels.  Well, I’ve found my bliss at the beautiful Beaumont Hotel & Spa.  Even if you just stop by for a drink on the patio, this hotel is a must in Ouray, a must-see in the Rockies.  The Beaumont is a destination hotel that’s worth going out of your way to experience.  And yes it is likely you’ll have to negotiate your schedule and maybe even some scary mountain roads to find your way to this remote part of Colorado.  But do go.  Once here you’ll experience the full glory of the golden days of mining when grand hotels were erected in remote little towns in order to properly receive the high rolling businessmen of the day.  Built in 1886 during Ouray’s heyday, the Beaumont reopened in 2003 after having undergone a five million-dollar renovation lovingly carried out by Dan and Mary King.  The hotel emerged from a near state of ruin as every detail—from its grand staircase to its flourish of ornate wallpapers—was restored, or exactly replicated, to its original Victorian splendor.  In the hotel’s Tundra Restaurant you’ll be greatly impressed by the beauty of the dining room as well as the food and wine offerings.  (The owner, Dan King, was a former wine merchant.)  Dining in this dimly lighted, dark wood paneled space beneath high ceilings makes me feel as though I’ve landed in an old Scottish castle.

Yes, I do love the Old World and also anything Old World-ish in America as long as its exceedingly well done.  Bulow’s Bistro, also in the Beaumont, is one such example.  Its tiled floor, wrought iron accents, café tables and blackboard writings make me feel as though I’ve just landed in a French bistrot.  Here, too, you can expect a remarkable choice of wines.  It’s so reassuring to know that my French fix is only an hour away.

Outdoor activities reign supreme in Ouray but in truth, I’ve always just spent my time strolling around town, poking into shops and checking out a few of the natural spectacular attractions such as waterfalls, the hot springs, and the peaks, known as The Amphitheater, that encircle town.

The Utes were drawn to healing sources for both therapeutic and spiritual reasons, so it comes as no surprise that these springs were greatly revered by this tribe of native Americans.  Descendants of Chief Ouray, the leader of the Utes, still frequent the original source where these springs flow from the base of the mountain into the Vapor Cave of The Wiesbaden, a lodge where a bathhouse once operated as early as 1879.  Here Steve and I most like to loll in the Lorelei, a private outdoor soaking pool that assures you relaxation, rejuvenation and a near-sacred moment shared with your sweetie in steamy waters.  Best to reserve in advance.

 

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

One of Several Private Tubs at the Box Canyon Lodge

From here, I recommend going back to your room, especially if it’s one of the spacious condo-types we once experienced at Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs.  Or just flop into a seat at the Main Street Theater to watch the multi-media presentation San Juan Odyssey.  (O.K., maybe you could head out for a libation or a bite to eat as well.)  Narrated by C.W. McCall (of “Convoy” fame) with music by Aaron Copeland and The London Symphony Orchestra, this panoramic presentation takes you into the rugged peaks, the gentle valleys and the high mountain passes of the San Juan Mountains.  You traverse some of the most spectacular terrain of the United States during this thirty-five minute show, embracing nature in all its gentleness and cruelty—from blooming wildflowers to charging avalanches—that so mark this part of the Rockies.

“If it’s there, you’ve got to climb it,” seems to be the motto of visitors and residents alike of this uncompromising land for the past century and a half.  Whether you’re hiking, on a horse or jeeping, people tackle these awe-inspiring peaks with fierce determination and drive.  I was grateful that the San Juan Odyssey transported me to some of the most reputed sites of the region:  Yankee Boy Basin, Imogene and Engineer Pass, Mt. Abrams, all places I hope to venture to some day in person.  But in the meantime, I’m perfectly content to experience them from the comfort of my theater seat after a relaxing soak.

Not surprisingly, the presentation—and perhaps the whole town—had the opposite effect on Steve.  Our usual one-hour drive home turned into a four-hour expedition as Steve pulled off onto Last Dollar Road at the top of Dallas Divide.  We rumbled past the broken down farm which appears in the opening scene of “True Grit” and forged forward onto the less-trammeled part of this old dirt road.  Jostled and shaken in his beat-up Jeep, Steve and I felt like two rancheros out on the trail as “San Antonio Rose” blared from the CD player.  I made sure Steve kept his eyes on the road but we both still marveled at magnificent mountain views from elevations as high as 10,000 feet.

We stopped just long enough to take pictures before approaching our descent into another heavenly mountain town, our beautiful Telluride.  Now let’s be clear about the renowned back roads—most old mining roads—of the San Juans.  We weren’t on Black Bear Road, the infamous course which begins at the summit of Red Mountain (just outside Ouray), passes by Bridal Veil Falls (the highest waterfall in Colorado), ending just beyond in Telluride.  Thank goodness it wasn’t this one-way road where more than one traveler has met his demise.  It was plenty challenging for me, however, just enough to give me a taste of the amazing high country exploration available in this part of the Rockies.

We vowed to go back and do more four wheeling along the area’s famous alpine loop in the fall.  Fortunately I feel confident that such an excursion will include stops at my favorite watering holes and rest stops in Ouray, mostly because Steve’s grown attached to them as well.  It’s nice to have more than one magical mountain town to call your own.

Beaumont Hotel & Spa, 505 Main Street, 888-447-3255 and 970-325-7000, 970-325-7050 (Bulow’s Bistro), 970-325-7040 (Tundra Restaurant), BeaumontHotel.com

The Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings, Corner of 6th Avenue & 5th Street, 970-325-4347, WiesbadenHotSprings.com

Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs, 45 Third Avenue, 800-327-5080 or 970-325-4981, BoxCanyonOuray.com

San Juan Odyssey, 630 Main Street, 970-325-4940; best to call for show times.

Other Ouray Favorites

Ouray Hot Springs Pool, 970-325-7073

Mouse’s Chocolates & Coffee, 520 Main Street, 970-325-7285, MousesChocolates.com

Rockin P Ranch, 512 Main Street, 970-325-0434, RockinPRanch.com

Buckskin Booksellers, 505 Main Street, 970-325-4044, BuckskinBooksellers.com; open 365 days a year!

Best to check opening days and hours with most Ouray establishments since business is very seasonal.

 

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

Fun and Funky Shopping in Ouray

 

3 Jul 2010, 11:24am
Food & Wine Restaurants The Rockies:
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Comments Off on Likin’ Kelly Liken

Likin’ Kelly Liken

Kelly and Her Gourmet Snacks at the Vail Farmers' Market

Kelly and Her Gourmet Snacks at the Vail Farmers' Market

I make a practice of finding out the names of top restaurants in every city and town I visit, thoughtful research I begin before I leave home and then complete at the end of my stay. From big to small, formal to casual, I love to compile a short list of the three or four recommendations most often provided. Usually I poll at least a half a dozen reliable sources—from locals to hotel managers—and pay close attention to the few names repeated with the greatest measure of enthusiasm. In Vail, Kelly Liken appeared on everyone’s list.

I enjoyed a fabulous dinner this spring at the namesake restaurant of this young chef and am sure that together with my friend and dinner companion, we regaled in one of the finest culinary experiences in the whole Vail Valley. Although Kelly was out of town at the time, to me she seemed to have all the makings of a top chef. Little did I know that she had already been pegged as a Top Chef contestant on the Bravo TV network at that time.

Rick, her charming husband, made sure that every aspect of our meal and wine tasting flowed smoothly. Clearly they make a dynamic team of food professionals; I loved the Americanized twist on the old French classic of the husband heading up the kitchen while madame works the floor. No wonder it appears that Kelly has so much hutzpah on Top Chef. You can taste it in her inventive dishes composed of the freshest and finest ingredients available to this tony Rocky Mountain town. I knew as soon as I entered the Chinese red decor of Kelly Liken that I’d be titillated by dishes full of flavor and panache. We left the restaurant with a jar of Kelly Liken homemade peach (from Palisades, Colorado, renowned for this juicy fruit) jam, delicately laced with ginger in our hands. Every time I sample this wondrous spread, I taste all the boldness of flavor and well-measured finesse of Kelly Liken’s inspired cuisine.

Kelly and Rick:  Quite the Pair

Kelly and Rick: Quite the Pair

It was fun to tune into Top Chef this week, a show I’ve heard much about but had never watched in its entirety. I was rooting for Kelly and another chef, Kenny Gilbert, who I came to know here in Telluride. I winced every time one of these two favorites found themselves up against the criticism and back-stabbing that seems to be such a big part of this show. How brutal! I would guess that some of the chefs wanted to wield their knives on something (or someone!) more than an onion.

Kelly’s back in Vail now but mum’s the word about her Top Chef standing. The fun continues on the air and at her restaurant, however, with a Top Chef Cocktail Party every Wednesday from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Hmmmm, I wonder if her wry smile belies her final Top Chef status. (The show has been taped after all.)

Kelly’s Summer Harvest Menu is of equal interest to me since it’s sure to represent the finest of Colorado. Every Sunday, Kelly sources and forages the finest goods at the Vail Farmers’ Market and constructs her Sunday evening menu around these offerings. Best to reserve well in advance since this meal, enhanced by a live jazz ensemble that begins at 8:30 p.m., is surely one of the hottest summer events in Vail. You can pick up some of Kelly’s gourmet snacks at this Vail Farmers’ Market, situated in the heart of Vail Village. Maybe you can buy some Kelly Liken ginger peach jam as well.

Kelly Liken, 12 Vail Road, Suite 100, 970-479-0175, KellyLiken.com

Note: Be sure to check your local listings for the Wednesday night airing of Top Chef on Bravo. In Telluride, for example, it’s on later than in Vail.

My Sticky Bun Indulgence at Kelly Liken

My Sticky Bun Indulgence at Kelly Liken

24 Jun 2010, 4:53pm
Art & Culture Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Telluride The Rockies Travel:
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Comments Off on Come to Colorado for Cowboys and Way More

Come to Colorado for Cowboys and Way More

A Quintessential Summer Festival Scene in T-ride's Town Park

T-ride's Town Park: the Quintessential Summer Festival Setting

Summer has popped here in Colorado propelling the season into a solid start. I wrote over a month ago in a previous post about how I attended two major tourism industry events last fall: one for France, one for Colorado. The mood at both gatherings was one of cautious optimism, although I’m sure the French nervosité about their tourism outlook was partly masked by the generous amounts of wine served throughout their program. It seems as though travel to these two fabulous destinations is shaping up nicely, perhaps even better than the travel industry experts might have hoped last fall.

I had a chance to schmooze with many of the movers and shakers from the Colorado travel world at the annual conference of the Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association (CHLA) last November which took place at The Broadmoor in Colorado Springs, our Rocky Mountain state’s premiere property. As with French Affairs ’09, I only attended the social events of this meeting, get-togethers—both casual and high-brow (yes, even in Colorado)—that allowed many opportunities for networking and idea sharing among some of the top hoteliers in the state. I had just returned from the French travel industry event in New York City, so my desire to draw comparisons was sharper than ever. (If you’ve read this blog some, you know that France and Colorado are often my two frames of references, odd as that may seem!) Resulting verdict: the Coloradans’ professionalism—along with the food and wine they serve at their travel industry events—rivals the level of excellence associated with French hospitality.

Better yet, the notion of friendly service seemed to be emphasized even more at the CHLA event. Perhaps that was largely due to the fact that Karyn Ruth White, motivational comedian/author, kicked off the conference with a stand up routine, entitled Laughing in the Face of Stress for Service Professionals. She delivered a very funny, very real look at the pressures, demands and frustrations that come with working in the customer service field. Karyn Ruth emphasizes the importance of “humortunities,” opportunities for injecting humor into stressful and unpleasant situations. We shuffled off to the Wild, Wild West reception, chuckling about the often craziness of travel and how we—as both travelers and travel professionals—would fare better if we approached certain happenings and encounters with more levity.

I think I’ll try some of Karyn Ruth’s recommendations on the French next time I travel to Paris or the provinces. There must be a clever way of laughing off “Ce n’est pas possible, madame.” Listen to the podcast of an interview I did with Karyn Ruth for lots of laughs.

Here in Telluride, we’re in full festival mode. Like most of the other Rocky Mountain towns, festivals dominate our summer scene. But in T-ride, we’re king of the festivals, many of which have been taking place for well over three decades. The Telluride Bluegrass Festival drew near record-breaking numbers last weekend, ringing in the beginning of summer with four days of extraordinary music, good fun and irrepressible sunshine. This weekend it’s Telluride Wine Festival’s turn, then the Plein Air Festivals in Telluride and Aspen are up.  And the happy beat goes on—as throughout most of Colorado—all the way until the end of September.

No wonder so many people come here to vacation in the summer. And you might have thought we’re just all about cowboys, hikers and hippies. Thankfully we have them, too, but we also have a culture and sophistication that rivals most European destinations.

This is actually a good part of the reason I live here.

Colorado Hotel & Lodging Association, ColoradoLodging.com; contact them to receive your complimentary copy of the Summer Vacation Planner.

Thank you to Merrick Chase, from Telluride Photography, for the photos that accompany this story.  You can purchase images of Colorado and more from Merrick’s site, TelluridePhotography.net.

A Sultry Summer Scene in Colorado

A Sultry Summer Scene in Colorado

Sleek and Sustainable: Two Stellar Colorado Properties

Style-y Dining at Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass

Style-y Dining at Eight K at the Viceroy Snowmass

What does it mean to stay in a green hotel? In the case of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain and the Viceroy Snowmass, it means stepping into a swanky world where sustainable luxury reigns supreme. I stayed at these two stunning resorts this past off-season and was highly impressed by their look and commitment to preserving the environment.

While on the premises I observed a certain amount of sustainable practices on my own, but I yearned to find out more. I posed the question “What makes a hotel green?” to Jeffery Burrel, Director of Operations of The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa, and to Jeff David, General Manager of the Viceroy Snowmass, in a recent Travel Fun interview and was interested to hear about what goes into the development and operations of a sustainable property.  And I bet you will, too.  Here’s a short list of the environmentally-conscious building strategies and operational practices implemented in these and most other LEED-certified properties:

-Many of the building materials are sourced locally.  Expect lots of rich stonework and other natural elements.

-Some of the building materials come from post consumer/industrial recycled content.  The roof of The Westin Riverfront, for example, is made of recycled automobile tires.

-Lots of glass, made up of high-performance windows, assure sweeping views.

-Low and non-emitting paints, adhesives and carpets are utilized throughout to ensure healthy indoor air quality.

-Much of the resort’s electricity comes from renewable sources.

-Low-flow fixtures help to conserve water.

-High efficiency appliances are used in the kitchens.

-Housekeeping products tend to be non-toxic and non-allergenic.

In addition to the above, each resort implements a variety of other green-oriented practices.  At The Westin Riverfront I particularly appreciated the recycling bins in the kitchen and their huge emphasis on fitness.  “We have more health and wellness space than banquet space,” says Jeffery Burrell.  Indeed I was totally won over by their outdoor saline lap pool which to me, is better than swimming in the ocean. (There’s no black line in the ocean.  And if you’re a serious swimmer, you want the black line.)  You can bet, too, that their saline natatorium is far better for your health and wellness than swimming in most chlorine-saturated pools.

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa

The Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa

At the Viceroy Snowmass, I noticed that the kitchen appliances were unplugged on a daily basis, a smart practice that I’ve since adopted at home.  This was also the first hotel where I found 16-ounce bottles of amenities in the bathroom.  What a great idea! (See below for more of my thoughts on hotel amenities.)

Don’t for a moment think that cutting-edge and down-to-earth are mutually exclusive in either of these resorts.  At both The Westin Riverfront and the Viceroy Snowmass, I was especially impressed by their friendly and efficient service.  I also liked their many little touches such as the aluminum water bottle presented to you upon arrival at the Viceroy and the employee name tags stating each person’s passion at The Westin. Both of these features—especially the name tags—provide nice opportunities to engage warmly with the hotel staff.

And best of all, each of these resorts boast outstanding spas and restaurants that you can enjoy even if you’re not a guest of the hotel.  In fact both the Restaurant Avondale at The Westin Riverfront and Eight K Restaurant at the Viceroy Snowmass are immensely popular with the locals.  As for their spas, zen and nature have never come together in such a sensuous manner in both of these healing spaces.

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Vive le Plein Air

Capturing Our Rocky Mountain Landscape

Capturing Our Rocky Mountain Landscape

The leaves have popped here in southwestern Colorado within the past ten days and it has felt like full-on summer since last Friday.  We’ve been transported from a long, bleak period into a lush, green season as fast as you can paint a scene.  The rivers and streams course between and within our mountains, creating a thunderous soundtrack throughout the land; our bright, sunny days are melting the snowpack at twice the usual rate. Today on my walk I spotted my first lupines of the year, tall bushy blooms with purply-colored flowers hanging thick on the stalks like grapes on a vine.

When I interviewed Ronnie Palamar, director of the Sheridan Opera House in Telluride, a few weeks ago for my Travel Fun radio show, the summer season seemed light years away.  Now it’s nearly upon us (officially) and what a great season it is for outdoor painting. The Impressionists were particularly consumed with the effects of changing light on color outside.  Pissarro, Manet, Monet, Degas and others took to setting up their canvases en plein air, or in the open air, creating some of the finest pieces of the Impressionist movement.

The striking scenery of Colorado, with its often dramatic interplay of light, provides the perfect setting for painting in plein air, especially during the summer when the days are plenty warm for standing outside at great length.  Plein air festivals have taken the country by storm in recent years, some of which originated on the coasts.  The Telluride Plein Air festival, modeled after the Carmel festival and created by the Sheridan Arts Foundation, is certainly the best known in the Rockies.  And now this year this terrific celebration of the arts is also establishing itself in Aspen in conjunction with the Sheridan Opera House and Aspen’s Wheeler Opera House.

Painting on Telluride's Main Street

Painting on Telluride's Main Street

Most of the works on view and for sale in both of these festivals are painted sur place, or on the premises, the week prior to the official festival opening.  For me, that’s the best part of this event; I love seeing the artists—some thirty painters in Telluride—set up their easels around town and in the surrounding area at all hours of the day and night.  Indeed there’s a certain romanticism about it all and fortunately the artists don’t seem to mind if we peek over their shoulders and perhaps even ask them a question or two.

Both the Telluride Plein Air and the Aspen Plein Air festivals are marked by exhibitions and demonstrations that are great fun to attend even if you’re not shopping for a treasure.  Be sure to check out the Quick Draw Competitions where artists must complete an on-site painting within only ninety minutes. Now that’s what I call a showdown.

The Historic Sheridan Opera House

The Historic Sheridan Opera House

Click on the play button below to hear Ronnie talk about the historic Sheridan Opera House in Telluride and also the seventh annual Telluride Plein Air and the first annual Aspen Plein Air festivals.  She tells some wonderful anecdotes about the artists that you won’t want to miss.

Telluride Plein Air, June 28-July 4

Aspen Plein Air, July 6-July 10

Photo Notes

The top photo features Niles Norquist painting in Telluride.  Niles will be returning to the Telluride Plein Air Festival this year.

“Home of the Ski Bum” below was painted by Wayne Mckenzie, a local artist that will be featured at both the Telluride and Aspen Plein Air festivals.  Ronnie recounts his story in the above interview.

If you’d like to host an artist in Telluride or Aspen during these festivals, contact Ronnie at ronnie@sheridanoperahouse.com. That’s a wonderful way to support the arts for which you’ll even receive a painting as a special thank you. Commissioned pieces may also be arranged for particular scenes; contact Ronnie for those enquiries as well.

Home of the Ski Bum

Home of the Ski Bum

It’s Dumping in the Rockies

Let it Snow!

Let it Snow!

As though right on cue, the big snows are arriving in the Rockies like a gathering of elves furiously putting the finishing touches on holiday preparations at the North Pole. Like kids on Christmas Eve, people in ski towns all across Colorado are suffering from ski fever as the pow pow accumulates outside our doors. The only release is to ski (or board!) and those lucky enough to get out are enjoying some of the best first tracks of the season.

Less than two weeks ago the sun shone brightly throughout most of Colorado as the thermometer displayed nearly springlike temperatures. Opening day in Telluride was as much about hanging out at the Hop Garden, a popular slopeside restaurant and bar, as stretching your legs on the slopes. Yet from Aspen to Vail to Crested Butte, all were eager to see some real snow. Even Sylvester, the cat, the lucky resident of the Sundeck, Aspen’s mountaintop restaurant, longed to see snow blowing outside his window. (Heck, if it’s cold and nearly winter in the mountains, it might as well snow!)

Sylvester, Aspen's Premiere Mountain Cat

Sylvester, Aspen's Premiere Mountain Cat

Our wish has been granted and clearly winter is rolling in with great force. Just in time, too. Here in Telluride we’re gearing up for the LG FIS Snowboardcross World Cup that kicks off shortly. World-class athletes have already begun to arrive, some earlier than originally planned since there’s apparently no snow in Europe. Wait ‘til they get a taste of the Champagne powder of the great American West.

Click here to see what winter is like in Telluride. You really must see this for its incredibly beautiful. Thank you to Ben Knight for capturing the magic of our awe-inspiring place.

Thank you also to Lisa Wilson for the top photo and Tom Watkinson for the one below.  Check out more of Lisa’s photos at Telluride Daily Photo and be sure to consider her 2010 calendar for holiday gifts.  I love her shots of life in Telluride.

End Note:  As I write this, I’ve had to reassure my kitties, Leo and Clara, that all is well.  They’re blasting outside, a good sign for everyone but cats.  I wonder how little Sylvester is surviving the avalanche control work in Aspen.  He’s surely hiding, especially since he’s known to only emerge before the rush, early in the morning and after lunch.

Also if you’re lucky enough to be in Telluride, stop by the Hop Garden today at 4 p.m. to meet the US Team athletes for poster signing and fun.

Steve and Me in Front of the Hop Garden on Opening Day

Steve and Me in Front of the Hop Garden on Opening Day

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    This blog is a personal blog written and edited by Maribeth Clemente. This blog sometimes accepts forms of cash advertising, sponsorship, paid insertions or other forms of compensation. The compensation received may influence the advertising content, topics or posts made in this blog. That content, advertising space or post may not always be identified as paid or sponsored content. The owner of this blog is sometimes compensated to provide opinion on products, services, Web sites and various other topics. Even though the owner of this blog receives compensation for certain posts or advertisements, she always gives her honest opinions, findings, beliefs or experiences on those topics or products. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely the blogger's own. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. This blog does not contain any content which might present a conflict of interest.
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