Aspen Colorado Mountain Living Music & Dance Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies: Aspen Colorado Mountain Living Music & Dance Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on What a Glorious Day, What a Beautiful Week
What a Glorious Day, What a Beautiful Week
Spring Powder in Colorado
Amidst all the mud, mixed precipitation and snowstorms here in Colorado, one can sometimes forget the promise of rebirth and renewal that recharges the spirit every spring. We just need to tap into reminders of this awakening more, especially when we don’t find ourselves surrounded by budding trees and blooming flowers.
If it weren’t for the sun shining so high in the sky these past couple of days, I’d swear it was the month of February. Huge, puffy snow pillows weight the trees as birds dart about wondering what happened to spring. It’s been cold, too, and all told I’d say it snowed at least two feet in Telluride throughout the Easter weekend and into the early part of this week. Then finally the sun emerged revealing a beauty so spectacular that it’s hard to regret that it looks like winter all over again in much of Colorado.
The sun, however, is so strong here that it should start looking like spring again sometime soon. In the meantime, die-hard skiers have been hitting the back country for some of the best spring skiing in years. Others are busy giving thanks for finishing out the season with such a significant snowpack, a not-so negligible happening in the West where fire danger consistently looms. Plus snow in the mountains means lots of rafting on our rivers throughout spring. With the huge snowfalls of this April, it looks like folks will be riding the river through the fourth of July.
Yes, even with all this snow, I feel the sense of optimism and awakening ushered in with spring.
Maybe I’m also revitalized from the Easter Day I experienced this year. It was doubly special since it was both Easter and closing day at Aspen Highlands, both reason for celebration. Sure, a proliferation of bunnies peppered the costume-clad crowd on the mountain and Jelly Beans, Peeps and chocolate eggs were handed out by Aspen Ski Co. staffers with a smile. But it was the Easter Sunrise Service at the base of the Highlands that touched me the most. I’d even call it transformative and isn’t that what Easter is all about? The setting, the music, the message—it all filled my soul with a hope and love that I’m inspired to inject into my thoughts and actions each day of the year.
Wow, yeah, it was that great. Not surprising either, especially when you consider all the elements that made it so special: outside in the early morning grandeur of the Rockies, guided in song by professional musicians and lead in prayer by a chaplain that’s both inspirational and entertaining. Good news is that the service, presented by Aspen Chapel, typically begins at 8:30 a.m. And you can attend even if you’re just a passing tourist with no intention of skiing. You must go though, especially if you love nature and great music. Look at it like an extraordinary concert that will touch your soul. Put the Easter Sunrise Service in Aspen on your calendar for next year right now. (Know that some years it takes place at the top of Aspen Mountain which means another kind of spectacular.)
Aspen Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies Writing & Books: Aspen Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies Writing & Books
by maribeth
Comments Off on Skiing, Smores and Storytelling at Snowmass
Skiing, Smores and Storytelling at Snowmass
Big Blues on the Big Burn at Snowmass
I woke up to a winter wonderland in Telluride this morning. The mountain’s closed here but I instantly went to the Aspen/Snowmass Web site and saw that they’ve already received seven inches and it’s still snowing. Yes, we’re still skiing here in Colorado! I’m taking off tomorrow for Aspen for a last blast at Aspen Highlands. They always put on a great end-of-season party.
Ten days ago I experienced closing weekend at Snowmass, a mountain I had never skied. Much like in Telluride, their last day of the season was marked by a terrific spring storm that left most people bemoaning the fact that it was the last hurrah. I can only wonder what this Sunday will bring at the Highlands.
So what do I think of Snowmass? Fantastic! I can’t wait to go back and get to know the mountain better. No wonder it’s such a popular choice for all kinds of skiers and boarders, big and small. The groomers seemed endless—long, languorous blues that undulate down the mountain making even the most intermediate skier feel like an expert. It was windy and cold on the last day, so I didn’t bother much with the blacks that crown the summit. But I long to ride The Cirque, a poma lift that runs along the crest of the mountain providing access to the steeper terrain. From there also, I imagine skiers and boarders revel in killer views.
And what about the ambiance? I like it. Although some of the eateries and facilities seem a bit dated, I truly appreciate the strong ski culture embedded throughout the resort. Sure, even on the last day the mountain boasted lots of tourists, yet I could also tell there were just as many local and regional die-hard skiers on the hill. I gobbled up a savory chicken stew at Gwyn’s High Alpine and met new friends that had been skiing Snowmass for years. And then not surprisingly, I found myself at Café Suzanne, a French-inspired establishment, before the last run to sip a hot chocolate with my hunny. Next time, I’ll be back for their boeuf bourguignon.
Colorado Fashion & Style Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Fashion & Style Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
1 comment
Spring Fever Hits Colorado Big-Time
Spring Fun in Colorful Colorado
Oh, how I love spring in Colorado. At least early spring, since mud season can sometimes get you down come late April/early May.
We’ve been enjoying glorious spring skiing conditions the past couple of weeks. Many of the ski areas have adjusted their hours to make the best of the longer days and the mountain has been packed with a cavalcade of spring breakers that have enjoyed the twin benefits of beach-y days on glistening slopes. Locals lost no time in breaking out their panoply of flowered shirts and brightly-colored garb and accessories, adding to the already festive atmosphere that reigns come March at the most happening ski destinations of the country.
Spring Green in Aspen During Today's Storm
Much of the Colorado ski resorts were blanketed with a glorious snowfall two weeks ago and now just in time for the next wave of spring breakers due to arrive this weekend, we’re delighting in another fabulous dump. Indeed our first day of spring welcomed wonderful wintry weather, just the sort of thing you want to see at a ski resort the third week of March. And since March and April are among the snowiest months in Colorado, I suggest you put a fresh wax on your skis and boards and plan to hit the Rockies at its finest hour. Remember to pack some of your most vibrant attire for these sun-soaked days. And since a storm can blow in at any time, be sure to be prepared for great swings in weather. Layering is always essential.
Cinnamon Wear Base Layers
Some of My Favorite Things for this Year’s Spring Skiing
Cinnamon Wear Base Layers
Any snowsports enthusiast worth his or her turns dips into a nice assortment of base layers from expedition weight to mid-weight to lightweight before heading out on the hill. I used to don silks for super warm spring days until recently when I discovered Cinnamon Wear, original clothing made of bamboo fabric for men, women and children. It’s super soft, anti-bacterial, fast drying and unbelievably breathable—perfect for remaining fresh well into après-ski. The material is so magical, in fact, that you can wear these base layers several days in a row before having to toss them in the dirty laundry. (That’s right—you’ll find them to be odor free. Vraiment incroyable!) The base layer tops fit so well and look so good that you’ll likely wear them out and about in town. Here’s the added plus: Cinnamon Wear, homegrown in Telluride, Colorado, was created by a local gal who clearly reveres life and the world in which we live.
Oakley's Golden All-Mountain Glove
Oakley Eyewear and Accessories
We all know that Oakley is synonymous with topnotch sunglasses and goggles, but did you know that this superlative brand produces other killer accessories as well? Their gloves, for example, exude the same fashion forward look as their eyewear. Men and women are sure to make them must-haves, especially for spring skiing. Some of the models are so style-y you’ll want to wear them out for a night on the town. Only at the chic resorts, of course. Make sure you outfit yourself in a pair of their top-of-the-line sunglasses and goggles first though. I can’t say enough about proper eye protection on the slopes. Did you know that the sun is stronger on the slopes of Colorado in March than at most beaches? Way stronger. Forget about those cheap-o dime store shades that look oh-so cool. I guarantee you that your eyes will be burning and tearing up all night long. Yes, you can get a sunburn on your eyes as well. Fit should also be a key consideration when choosing eyewear, particularly for goggles. I like the feel of being in my own little bubble behind my Polarized Crowbar Snow goggles from Oakley. Their moisture wicking triple-layer face foam feels comfy on both warm and chilly days. There’s no such thing as vision distortion, haze or fog with these gems. Why, I think they’ve even taken my skiing up a notch as well. As I often say to my students at Ski School, If it feels good, it looks good. With Oakley, this motto seems to work both ways.
Know that a lot of Colorado ski resorts remain open well into April and many offer great deals on both lodging and lift tickets. Check out Skiing and Spa Going: Part One in Vail, Skiing and Spa Going: Part Two in Aspen and March Madness Runs into April for more stories about spring in Colorado.
An Unbeatable Après-Ski Experience: The Sundeck on Aspen Mountain
Thank you to Aspen/Snowmass, Biege Jones, Dave Amirault, Jeremy Swanson for the above ski shots. Thank you also to Cinnamon Wear and Oakley for their images.
Colorado Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Shopping Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
1 comment
Baby It’s Cold Outside
Columbia’s Reach the Peak Omni-Heat Down Jacket
Brrrrrrr. There’s no doubt about it—it’s January here in the Rockies. We had brutally cold weather over New Year’s, then a bit of a reprieve, and now the thermometer has dipped way low again the past couple of days and nights. And I love it! These frigid temperatures are ideal for preserving our snow as well as our hearty mountain-dweller spirit. (Chilly days on the hill make for even more cozy nights at home.)
You must, however, be prepared for such frosty weather since there’s no fooling around with mother nature. I had my coldest day on the mountain (ever!) in Telluride over New Year’s, yet I more than endured it by dressing properly and taking lots of hot chocolate breaks. Temperatures hovered around zero much of the time, creating a misty, ethereal effect unlike anything I had ever experienced on the slopes. I never would have ventured out on such glacial days on my own, but since I was booked for private lessons with familiar clients, my ski instructor duties kicked in. (And boy, was I glad it did or else I would have missed a very magical moment on the mountain.)
Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies: Skiing & Snowboarding The Rockies
by maribeth
1 comment
Playing in the Rockies: A Great Substitute for Going to the Mall
Gobbling up the Pow-Pow in Aspen on Thanksgiving
Whoa—what a holiday weekend it turned out to be here in the Rockies. While many of you were planted in front of your T.V.s watching football or trudging about the stores in search of Black Friday bargains, people were hitting the slopes hard all over Colorado. What a great way to burn off holiday indulgences! In Telluride, we had one of the best openings ever; and although only a limited amount of terrain was served up, conditions proved to be delectable. Aspen enjoyed an epic kick off to their season, punctuated by the Women’s World Cup races, an exciting FIS event that brings even more of an international crowd to this tony mountain town.
It seems as though the skiing has been bountiful all over the state and storms have begun to roll in to our part of the country like guests showing up for a holiday party. I’ve been scrambling to transition from travel writer’s mode to a well-prepared ski instructor ready to spend many hours out and about on the slopes with clients, no matter what weather or situation marks the day. It’s challenging but have no fear, the mountain conquers all!
Thank you to Jeremy Swanson for the above image.
Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on Fall in the Rockies: Pick the Day, Pick the Season
Fall in the Rockies: Pick the Day, Pick the Season
Gondyleaves at Snowmass
We were walloped with our first big snowstorm of the season earlier this week. It happened as usual––albeit a little behind schedule––and within twenty-four hours we were catapulted from glorious fall days into the depths of winter. Either way, it looks beautiful here in the Rockies and it seems as though we’ll be spared the bleak, grey days that sometimes occur between falling leaves and snowfall. Hopefully it was just enough to inspire folks around the country to think about booking their ski vacations in Colorado. (The best deals are offered now, so don’t wait.)
Colorado Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Romance & Relationships The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Romance & Relationships The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on Rafting and Roughing It on the Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Part Four
Rafting and Roughing It on the Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Part Four
My Happy River Companions: Steve, Jen, Andrew, Ryan and Glenn
Only a handful of experiences in life—at least ones that occur over a forty-eight hour period—may be considered transformative. The below is part four of one of mine. My journey on the Gunnison River gripped me with so much passion and awe that I’ve chosen to share it with you in its unabbreviated version. I’ve posted this story in four parts. I hope you’ll be with me and enjoy it throughout. You can read all parts in (reverse) sequence in the category Outdoor Adventures.
From Smith Fork on, the waters flattened out some three miles to the take-out. The canyon opens wide to pink sandstone walls here, a gentle float that doesn’t require the wearing of life preservers or much attention paid toward the river’s movements. Now it was time for us all to just loll about on the raft. We looked back at Ryan in the gear boat, no longer worried that he’d make it through the turbulent waters without a hitch; he rowed along calmly just like us. By now we had all downshifted into supreme relax mode, the kind of lulling feeling you have after having gone through something fairly intense and completely stimulating.
The Dudes
Talk of showers was beginning by now although I believe it was Jen who initiated it first. I quietly scoffed at the idea of using a blow dryer. I had been transformed in less than forty-eight hours. My skin glowed with a golden, bronze-y tone and although I hadn’t bathed much, the river kept me feeling cool and fresh. I even forgot about my grey hairs and was actually beginning to enjoy “peeing in the woods.” But it was the canyon walls, the bobbing in the raft and the riverside meals I had enjoyed the most. I also had become very endeared to my fellow campers and guides and felt delighted that we had all shared such conviviality and affection toward each other in such an inspiring setting. Camping and rafting do bring you better in touch with nature and your fellow man. And certainly one of the best places to do it is in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River.
Epilogue
I experienced the above adventure just over a year ago and wrote most of the story shortly thereafter. Steve, Glenn, Jen and I returned a month ago for a second time around. This time Jen’s slightly younger brother Andrew (who happens to work for Martha Stewart!), flew in from New York to join us. Ryan headed up the journey as lead guide. Rick had left Black Canyon Anglers during the year to start a new life in environmental work in the Pacific Northwest. Josh, another expert river runner and most affable guy, teamed up with Ryan as the second guide. Josh has been “riding rivers” for years in addition to working his day job as a realtor. We came to know Ryan better on this trip and enjoyed goofing around with him and Josh, both on the water and off: Although forever professional, both approached most of our doings with a more laid back attitude, setting the tone for a more relaxed trip overall. With the two of them, we even got into some kid-like shenanigans such as jumping off cliffs into the river, something that Rick surely would have discouraged.
Our Big Kid Ryan
Ryan and Josh
Josh Manning the Gear Boat, the Heavier Raft
Andrew complemented our cozy, already formed group very well. And in the end, it was he who furnished us with the best camping poop story of all. Indeed our fascination with the groover continued and this time around, we went so far as to ask the guys who’s job it was to take care of it upon return to the lodge. (Like all duties, they share that one with the same whoever-gets-to-it-first attitude that’s applied to the rest of the numerous river trip chores.)
So how was it for me second time around? Totally awesome, once again. I rarely do the same trip twice unless it’s to Paris or to ski in T-ride, but this one is truly super special. I didn’t feel the same sense of wonder I felt first time around since I was no longer a virgin rafter/camper on the Gunnison River. But it still felt extraordinary to me and this time I had the added sensation of “coming home.” It has definitely helped me to be less of a Parisian princess as well. This time I experienced less separation anxiety over my dry bag being tossed in the gear boat, but then again I got smart and brought a mini dry bag as a “purse.” (No one snickered about this either since most everyone asked me to hold something of theirs in my little ditty bag as we traveled along the river.) This time I had my hair colored shortly before the trip (hence, no need for mascara touch ups) but I did experience a big breakthrough in not looking at myself in a mirror at any time during the trip. I actually had forgotten my compact—but I’ll take kudos whenever possible.
Moi, au Naturel!
Jen asked me halfway through this last trip if I was coming back next year, an almost inconceivable thought since I rarely do any travels twice, let alone three times. I’m thinking about it though since experiencing this stunningly beautiful remote wilderness location with the expertise of two top-notch guides and a fun group of fellow campers makes for a most memorable getaway. Next time though I’ll be sure to outfit myself with a good pair of river shoes (first time around it was sneakers, then this time Teva flip flops—what am I thinking?) Progress has been made though since this last time I hardly thought twice about an eventual scorpion in my tent and actually didn’t ponder the pygmy rattlesnake once. And peeing outside beneath the stars appeared almost romantic. Wow, maybe I should go again. Am I becoming more Rocky Mountain girl than Parisian sophisticate? Whoah, whoah, not so fast, my dear.
Black Canyon Anglers, 970-835-5050, BlackCanyonAnglers.com
River trips are typically conducted May through early October; float trips tend to be best from July on. Day trips are also possible.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, 970-641-2337
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
This part of the Black Canyon, just outside of Montrose is the widest, tallest and perhaps the most awe-inspiring. (Experienced riders and rafters run the lower canyon in the Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area as we did.) Open year-round, the Visitor Center here is an excellent place to begin your visit to this relatively little-known National Park. Then drive the South Rim Road to various lookout points where you’ll find great places to hike and picnic. I’ll be writing more about the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in the not-too-distant future.
“Our surroundings were of the wildest possible description. The roar of the water…was constantly in our ears, and the walls of the canyon, towering half mile in height above us, were seemingly vertical. Occasionally a rock would fall from one side or the other, with a roar and crash, exploding like a ton of dynamite when it struck bottom, making us think our last day had come.”
Abraham Lincoln Fellow, 1901
In 1901 Abraham Lincoln Fellows and William Torrence floated the Gunnison River (named in honor of Captain John W. Gunnison who lead an expedition here in 1873-74, but bypassed the gorge in search of a river crossing). They traveled thirty-three miles on a rubber mattress in nine days and determined that construction of an irrigation tunnel was feasible. Despite a handful of installations, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison has remained amazingly unspoiled today. A true gem of southwestern Colorado, a wonder of the United States.
Latest dispatch from Josh ten days after our last trip:
There was a tremendous storm that hit the Gunnison Gorge last Thursday. Several of the washes turned into torrents of water and boulders. Caddis Camp, where we stayed the night, is no longer a camping spot. Alll the sand was washed away and it is now a pile of debris and rocks. You have to respect mother nature!
Thank you to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park for the above image.
Colorado Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Romance & Relationships The Rockies: Colorado Mountain Living Outdoor Adventures Romance & Relationships The Rockies
by maribeth
Comments Off on Rafting and Roughing It on the Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Part Three
Rafting and Roughing It on the Black Canyon of the Gunnison: Part Three
Day Two: The Bigger Rapids Day
Only a handful of experiences in life—at least ones that occur over a forty-eight hour period—may be considered transformative. The below is part three of one of mine. My journey on the Gunnison River gripped me with so much passion and awe that I’ve chosen to share it with you in its unabbreviated version. I’m posting this story in four parts. I hope you’ll be with me and enjoy it throughout. You can read all parts in (reverse) sequence in the category Outdoor Adventures.
The cowboy coffee tasted all the more delicious the next morning, grounds and all. I relished this in my tin cup along with a plate of blueberry pancakes and ham as well as a slice of chocolate cake from the night before while gazing out onto the shimmering Gunnison.
This being morning, talk of “the groover” increased tenfold. I had already been cautioned that use of the groover was technically mostly reserved for Number Two. (Just like everything else, the groover was also pack in/pack out. Wow.) “Why do you call it the groover?” I ventured.
