Tim Cahill: The Godfather of Travel Writing
Tim Cahill Canyoning in New Zealand
When I asked renowned travel writer Tim Cahill how he came to be a writer specializing in travel during a recent Travel Fun interview, he answered with all the modesty of a hippo in the bush. “I invented the job,” he said with a glint in his eye. And indeed he did. As one of the founders of Outside magazine, Tim Cahill changed the way a person could read about the great outdoors and adventure travel.
He had worked two years at Rolling Stone in the mid Seventies when the editor approached him with the idea of creating a literate outdoor magazine. “It was a simple concept,” Tim said. But in those days outdoor magazines were more about hunting and fishing, slaying a ferocious wildebeest or how to prime your canoe for the upcoming season. It was generally believed that avid readers of fine prose did not spend much time outdoors.
“We were made fun of by the journalism pundits,” Tim said. “But we did the magazine that we wanted to read.” And not long after their launch, the founders of Outside were proven right, especially after having received top awards in the publishing world many years in a row.
“Outside really gave me my start,” Tim explained. The folks at the magazine realized early on that getting the best ice climber to write a story didn’t produce the results they wanted. Instead it was much better to have someone who could write well team up with the best ice climber and that person became Tim Cahill. (Prior to Outside, Tim was one of those guys that would head out for a weekend of backpacking, but he was no big adventurer.) “I was the inept rookie in the wilderness the first ten years,” Tim chuckled.
Tim’s spiral notebooks grew and it soon became clear that many of his magazine stories were destined to become books. He told me he has written nine in all (but I found way more on Amazon and hence listed ten below). And on their pages you can read some of the most descriptive and poignant tales of adventure travel ever written. “An adventure story does not have to be a lot of gratuitous chest pounding,” Tim said. “If you’re diving and you see a shark, there’s some wonder behind it.” Tim wouldn’t conclude that story with a wielding pen knife and spewing blood and guts. His work is much more refined; he’s in the business of telling compelling stories with finesse.
Tim and I traded tales about the writer’s life and the publishing world as we shared the microphone. We were experiencing a classic KOTO happening, yet another improvisational moment in community radio since all of the extra mikes in the studio had been removed for a special event. We had to get so close that we sidled up to each other like two lovers on a park bench. That definitely helped to break the ice! Tim Cahill no longer seemed like the untouchable travel writer God I had met several years ago at the Travel Writer’s Conference at Book Passage in California. (He was surrounded by so many people that I was barely able to say hello to him then!)
Funnily enough when I asked Tim about his beginnings he told me that when he was young he thought “writers were somehow unattainable Gods”. We both joked about how we found out that that was far from the truth.
He was one of those kids that stayed up reading by flashlight late into the night. Reading is always the best primer for a writer. Tim graciously shared many other tips with me and I’m sure that as I attempt to implement them, I’ll be thinking about him and his dedication to the written word. He did after all invent the travel writer job, you know.
Tim Surveying the External Landscape
Travel Writer Tips from Tim Cahill
-Take contemporaneous notes.
-Write about the external landscape (what you see) and the internal landscape (what’s happening to you when you see it).
-Bring home your notes and then try to write out complete sentences.
-Try to grab the reader around the first paragraph. “I then give the best descriptions about why I was there and I tell stories that I hope will lead the reader to the same conclusion I came to when I was there,” Tim explained.
Tim regularly conducts writer’s workshops for the Yellowstone Association, 307-344-2293, www.yellowstoneassociation.org.
The Book Passage Travel Writer’s Conference takes place annually mid August at the main Book Passage Bookstore in Corte Madera, California; 800-999-7909, ext. 233, www.bookpassage.com.
Book Picks: Tim Cahill’s books, some of which are listed below.
“Buried Dreams: Inside the Mind of a Serial Killer”
“Jaguars Ripped My Flesh”
“A Wolverine Is Eating My Leg”
“Road Fever”
“Pecked to Death by Ducks”
“Pass the Butterworms: Remote Journeys Oddly Remembered”
“Dolphins”
“Hold the Enlightenment”
“Lost in My Own Backyard: A Walk in Yellowstone National Park”
“The Best American Travel Writing”
Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride Travel: Colorado Skiing & Snowboarding Telluride Travel
by maribeth
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Telluride Ski Resort is Tantamount to Fun
Lowering the Goods
Not long after I returned home from my month of travels back east, I tuned in to the constant comings and goings of a helicopter whirring in the skies near my little slopeside apartment. There was so much activity, in fact, that I said a prayer for the people involved since choppers in the mountains typically mean a search and rescue mission. My concern swelled until someone enlightened me, informing me that the copter operation concerned the ski area; these workhorses of the sky had been engaged to deliver lift shacks, towers and other materials to an elevation of over 12,000 feet for the installation of the new Revelation Lift. Oh, of course, I thought to myself and my mood quickly changed from one of dread to elation.
I chatted about Revelation Lift and more with Dave Riley, CEO of Telluride Ski and Golf, during a recent Travel Fun interview. Entering his second year on the job, Dave has a lot to be proud of at Telluride Ski Resort. He has been instrumental in opening up a bunch of new terrain including Palmyra Peak, Black Iron Bowl, Gold Hill Chutes 6-10 and now Revelation Bowl which will be ready to go with the start of this new ski season.
Veteran Ski Patrolman Surveys the Terrain
“I have to give the ski patrol a lot of credit for most of these openings,” Dave said during our interview. Much avalanche control work was required to pave the way for the public and ski patrol did double time with this last winter, particularly since it was a banner snow year. It seems that almost as a reward to them, Dave went ahead and leased some fancy Howitzers from the U.S. Army; these 105 mm artillery weapons certainly pack enough punch to trigger slides far out on the peaks and couloirs. New snowcats have also been acquired, high-performing mountain monsters that will be winched up on at least a couple of the trails off of the Revelation Lift to guarantee some nice corduroy for those of us looking to take a break from the bumps.
I was thrilled to learn that most of the runs off of Revelation—the highest lift on the mountain which also happens to be above tree line—are single black diamonds. (Oh, what did you think I was hardcore?) “It’s like a high alpine, European bowl,” Dave says. “It’s a great snow catcher and the views are extraordinary.”
Virgin Revelation Bowl
The scenery here is probably what best sets Telluride apart from most other mountain resorts in the country. “We have the largest concentration of 13,000 to 14,000-foot peaks here,” Dave points out. “It’s like the Swiss Alps of America.” We both agree, too, that the combination of the old mining town of Telluride (a National Historic District) with Mountain Village, a more recent European-styled assortment of buildings and homes works well together to suit the needs of both residents and visitors. Both are connected by a gondola, providing free transportation and outstanding views to all that ride it from the wee hours of the morning until midnight.
Dave Riley Atop Palmyra Peak
Dave, an incredibly passionate skier that has worked in many top destinations throughout the West, travels to four to six different ski areas a season. Sure, he’s a little biased but I can tell he’s sincere when he talks about how Telluride offers an unparalleled ski experience in North America. “Telluride is consistently good,” he emphasizes. “There are no lift lines here, there’s good sunny weather and the snow is great.”
At this point, I tap into the ski instructor within me and mention that we enjoy great teaching terrain in Telluride as well. “There’s a good balance for beginner, intermediate, expert and even extreme skiers and boarders,” I add.
“Our Ski and Snowboard School is unmatched,” Dave volleys back. “The instructors provide great instruction with a real personalized touch.”
Fabuleux! I scored one for the home team. I almost added that we all try really hard as well but I didn’t want to blur the line too much between radio interviewer/travel writer and ski instructor, especially with my boss. One thing’s for sure: We all share an immense enthusiasm for the mountain and that passion is conveyed to every person we encounter. Dave exudes it as well which is probably partly why he’s been able to improve so much on an already darn good thing.
Telluride Ski Resort, 970-728-6900, www.tellurideskiresort.com; be sure to check out Dave’s blog at that site.
Dave’s Book Pick
“Ski the 14ers: A Visual Tribute to Colorado’s 14,000-foot Peaks from the Eyes of a Ski Mountaineer,” by Chris Davenport. Ski mountaineering is one of Dave Riley’s personal passions.
Now Warm Up that Baby---Ski Season is Almost Here!
Being Green Shopping Telluride Travel: Being Green Shopping Telluride Travel
by maribeth
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Daryl Hannah on Green Living
Daryl on the Mesa Outside of T-ride
The breakdown of Daryl’s biodiesel car left her nearly stranded in Montrose, the largest city in the region situated about an hour and a half from Telluride. Clearly she was not going to make it to the KOTO studios in time to do a Travel Fun interview with me, so we chatted on the phone together instead. (Daryl was actually holed up inside one of the teepees at the Ute Indian Museum, an interesting place that I have yet to visit.)
A few technical difficulties challenged me back at the studio. I was pulling together a live program—a rarity in the almost five years I’ve been doing radio—and my button pushing faltered somewhat, particularly at one point when I forgot to turn off the DJ mike during the musical break. Half of my phone conversation with another caller was broadcasted on the airwaves. Fortunately I wasn’t chatting about anything too private! I continued with more music from the “Kill Bill,” soundtrack for the second musical break, overlooking a cut that requires keen censorship. A few F-words later, I said a big “ooops” and hoped that the FCC wasn’t tuned in. Daryl was more than gracious throughout the whole interview, particularly during my assorted goof ups. Thankfully, she clearly has a tender attachment to KOTO, Telluride’s own community radio station.
In addition to her memorable performances in the original “Blade Runner,” “Splash,” “Wall Street,” and more recently the “Kill Bill” series, Daryl has been busy championing causes and spreading the word about green living. She is a keen environmentalist. And this is not so new because Daryl has been a vegetarian since the age of eleven.
Actually Daryl is turned off by the green word. Just like with organic and sustainable, she thinks those words are overused. “They really don’t take into account the social connectedness of things,” Daryl emphasizes. “You need to consider the social aspect of everything.”
Daryl practices what she preaches when she can. “I’m trying to get off of fossil fuels and the grid as much as possible,” she says. In addition to zipping around the mountains in her not-so new—but souped up—biodiesel car, Daryl lives in a one-bedroom home out here on a mesa, a simple house built from an old barn that was going to be torn down. “It’s solar powered, nontoxic and as sustainable as possible,” she says. Many organic elements have been incorporated into the interior and exterior design including a “couch” made from locally gathered, moss-covered rocks. “I just pull off the cushions and spray wash it down every once in a while,” Daryl chuckles.
Blonde Beauty Modeling a Chain Mail Purse Made from Soda Pop Pull Tab Tops by a Womens' Artisan Co-Op in Brazil
I imagine Daryl’s Telluride home to be fairly minimalist. “I subscribe to the church of stop shopping,” she revealed. She thinks people are better off wearing old clothes and making them cool by stenciling them. She’s also an advocate of consignment stores. “Growing cotton for one T-shirt requires much too much water for that to be a sustainable product,” she explains. I unfortunately didn’t have a chance to tell her that I believe in buying quality products that you treasure forever. That’s the French way. Buying in quantity is more of an American addiction.
Daryl Chillin' with DHLoveLife.com
Daryl’s Web site is a good place to go to inform yourself about living less conspicuously on this planet. It’s also fun and the best way to get to know the real Daryl Hannah. You can shop there for some of her hand-chosen products such as an aluminum water bottle and a travel essential bag filled with most of her favorite travel must-haves including a safe sunscreen (most are carcinogenic), arnica (good for sore muscles), Super Salve, an ultra-rich balm that’s great for lubricating nostrils and such before, during and after airplane travel and more along with other terrific products. (Daryl also likes to bring sage from the mesa with her on her travels, but you’ll have to round up some of that on your own.)
Ecotourism is a term that Daryl feels is getting overused as well. She encourages people to look closely at places that promise to be green. For her, it’s important that ecoresorts exhibit a real connectedness with the local community. Hotelito Desconocido in Mexico and Al Karm and Babata, two ecolodges in Egypt, all destinations that Daryl features on her video blogs, are resorts committed to fostering a mutually beneficial relationship with their environs.
Daryl also encourages people to go to our National Parks more “cause nobody uses them.” She cited the Channel Islands, off the coast of California, as an example of a rare site little known to people. Her “Natural Wonder” video blog on her Web site documents this unique place and its habitat.
She’s also done a number of video blogs on people that have inspired her, people that she considers to be her heroes. In one of the video blogs, Daryl visits with Richard Branson, a well-known English business magnate, but also one of the world’s leading investors in renewable energy and resource efficiency technology.
At this year’s Telluride Film Festival, Daryl met Paul Watson, a tireless environmentalist dedicated to the protection of animal rights. He was here showing his film, “Pirates of the Sea.” Daryl plans to join up with Paul soon on his ship, and from the way she talked, I suspect he’ll soon be featured as one of her “heroes,” too.
For now, however, Daryl is in London filming “Blind Man’s Bluff” with the English actor Tom Conti.
Ute Indian Museum, Montrose, Colorado, 970-249-3098, www.coloradohistory.org/hist_sites/UteIndian/Ute_indian
Daryl’s Web site is www.dhlovelife.com
Al Karm Ecolodge, Mount Sinai, Egypt, www.awayaway-sinai.net/main/st.%20katherine_sub/al_karm
Babata Ecolodge; I’m working on finding a link!
Hotelito Desconocido, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, 800-013-1313, www.hotelito.com
National Park Service, Channel Islands, www.nps.gov/chis
Daryl’s Book Picks
Anything by Michael Pollan. “I think they should be mandatory reading for everyone,” Daryl says. She particularly recommends “The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals” and his recent book, “In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto.”
Daryl also enjoys reading books that tell the story of the people and the place she’s visiting. “Love in the Time of Cholera,” by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, for example, is her suggestion for travels to South America.
Colorado Hotels & Lodging Restaurants The Rockies Travel: Colorado Hotels & Lodging Redstone Restaurants The Rockies Travel
by maribeth
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Redstone Rendez-Vous
Redstone Inn: One of Colorado’s Best-Kept Secrets
After having been away a month, I couldn’t wait to get back to Telluride. I just wanted to sleep in my own bed with my two kitties and bury myself into the quiet of my little mountain nest. The drive from Denver to T-ride is about seven hours and since I’m not much of a car person, I like to break it up with a stop at my brother David’s house. He and his wife, Geri, live in Redstone, Colorado, a charming little town very much at the halfway point of my Denver/Telluride journey. Normally I would stay overnight, giving us plenty of time to catch up; but the three of us were rather pressed for time, so they suggested we lunch at the Redstone Inn instead.
Art & Culture Colorado Denver Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel: Art & Culture Colorado Denver Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Travel
by maribeth
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More LoDo Love
Larimer Square (photo courtesy of DMCVB)
My late-August jaunt was such a flash trip to Denver that I didn’t have time to hit my favorite haunts, most of which are located in LoDo, Denver’s historic Lower Downtown, a 26-block area between the main part of downtown and Union Station. This section is fun to explore by foot so that you can best take in its abundance of high western Victorian buildings, many of which house interesting stores, art galleries, restaurants, bars and hotels.
Colorado Denver Restaurants Romance & Relationships Shopping Travel: Colorado Denver Restaurants Shopping Travel
by maribeth
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Night Out in Denver
I love visiting a place when it’s in the throes of a big happening. It couldn’t have gotten much bigger recently in Denver during the Democratic National Convention. The streets were buzzing with all kinds of people from all over the country, all over the world, in fact. I had never seen so many fashionable looking people in the mile high city—the old cow town myth has certainly been put to rest!
After a short while though I was feeling rather alone in the crowd. So I went and sought comfort at Tattered Cover, one of my all-time favorite bookstores and certainly one of the finest book emporiums in our country. Their LoDo, or Lower Downtown, location pleases me the best; this worked out well since that’s the area where most of the Convention hoopla was taking place.
Fortunately just as I was beginning to tire from checking my e-mails from my cozy armchair at this most welcoming bookstore, I received a call from David Craig, General Manager of Hotel Teatro, Denver’s award-winning boutique hotel. It was time for some distraction and I was more than willing to receive it from this charming man, certainly one of Denver’s most eligible bachelors.
Art & Culture Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Saratoga Springs Shopping Spas Travel: Art & Culture Food & Wine Hotels & Lodging Restaurants Saratoga Springs Shopping Spas Travel
by maribeth
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My Saratoga
Batcheller Mansion: A Victorian Gem
“You can either go to the Carousel or the Adelphi,” my mother said. “But we’re not doing both.”
It was amazing how even at the age of blankety-blank my mom could still make me feel like a child. It’s a good thing we were such buddies, such devoted travel companions that she could get away with a remark like that and still leave me feeling totally unscathed. This was our afternoon out in Saratoga Springs, a beloved town for all upstate New Yorkers, but perhaps even more so for me since I had lived here at one point in my life. (It also happens to rate as one of the top destinations in New York state along with New York City and Niagara Falls.)
The truth is that I didn’t arrive in Telluride directly from Paris. Toga-town captured my interest in between and I will always reserve a soft place for it in my heart. It is a grand destination, distinguished largely by its hometown America charm and pristine and abundant examples of Victorian architecture. Visitors have been flocking to Saratoga Springs for more than a century and a half, first for its mineral waters, later for its gaming. Tourism has always been a big industry here, particularly in the summer when the town opens up the Saratoga Racetrack, the oldest thoroughbred race course in the country, along with the Saratoga Performing Arts Center, or SPAC, summer home of the New York City Ballet and the Philadelphia Orchestra.
Mom and I needed to go on one of our outings for it had been a while since we had experienced the kind of female bonding that best occurs over doing lunch, shopping or going for some kind of beautification together. I was back east in the Adirondacks visiting my parents, so nearby Saratoga Springs, a town sometimes referred to as the gateway to the Adirondacks, seemed like the most logical choice. Plus my mother and I wanted to go see Alan, my mother’s hair dresser of nearly forty years who works out of Saratoga part-time. I planned our afternoon around our beauty appointments and except for lunch, I thought I’d leave the rest to chance. Dad was to come along, too, a welcome addition to my well established dynamic with my mother, so I imagined there might be some kind of an attraction he would vie for as well.
Pastries from Mrs. London’s
We made a direct beeline to Mrs. London’s, a lovely tea salon/bake shop that would easily rival Paris’s finest Right Bank pâtisseries. I wanted to have a belated birthday celebration for my mom and I knew that Mrs. London’s was as much a favorite for her as for me. The three of us sat primly at little marble tables, sipping iced tea and munching on delectable sandwiches. We took turns hovering in front of the glass display cases, eyeing each and every pastry and cake in an attempt to make our selection for dessert. We settled on the idea of sharing one luscious lemon meringue tarte amongst the three of us. But at the same time, we ordered a pain au chocolat, a kouign amann (a buttery specialty from Brittany) and a rich, dark brownie to go.
Edible Art
We also selected a Fire Bread, the creation for which Michael London, owner of Mrs. London’s with his wife, Wendy, is perhaps most famous. This is a dense, crusty bread similar to France’s renowned pain Poîlane, which to me is best in the morning, toasted and smothered with butter and honey.
At Alan’s, I was fully debriefed on the current dining scene in Saratoga, one that can change as fast as the odds on a horse race. (Fortunately only a couple of my favorites were scratched!) Alan is a trusted source since not only is he a hairdresser, but he’s also a foodie. Dad sat reading the sports pages throughout our discussions and blow dries.
Mom and I left nicely primped and decidedly eager to go somewhere to show it off. Dad bestowed us with much appreciated compliments and told us that he didn’t care where we went next. We contemplated shopping since Saratoga is known for its many quaint shops but none of us needed anything. It was at that point that I envisioned a ride on the old-fashioned, wooden carousel in historic Congress Park (perhaps proceeded by a stroll through its beautifully manicured grounds), followed by a drink at the Adelphi, Saratoga’s landmark hotel.
Riding the Carousel in My Dreams
I had done pretty much all there is to do in Saratoga when I lived here except take a ride on the carousel. (Although I had read a lot about its impending arrival, this revered treasure—which is now enclosed in glass—hadn’t been transplanted here until after I left town.) My romantic notion of twirling on the carousel alongside my aging parents withered when confronted with the choice my mother presented to me. I have a huge weakness for fine hotels and the Adelphi ranks among the most distinctive I know, so going there would, of course, be my first choice. Be sure to visit Congress Park, however, when you’re in Saratoga since every acre of it has been laid out with great purpose and design. The Saratoga Springs History Museum, housed in the famed Canfield Casino (which you can sometimes tour), sits right in the center of this handsome tract of land.
The three of us padded into the hotel and I was delighted to see that not much had changed since I last spent time here many years ago. Actually I don’t think the hotel has undergone many significant restorations within the past one hundred years. And to me, this worn and tired look only adds to its charm. We wandered through the Victorian-era lobby, decorated with velvet settees and rich wallpaper and paused just long enough in the bar area to admire the room’s painted murals and fine spread of fruit, cheese and desserts including blackberry pie and carrot cake. Already I felt like this was one of the last bastions of civility left in Saratoga, an elegant retreat that furnished the necessary accompaniments to both a glass of wine and a cup of tea.
Lobby of the Adelphi
I was leading my parents toward the courtyard patio, a marvelous oasis populated with large and lush exotic plants and forest green Adirondack chairs. I could remember seeing long, lithe ballet dancers draped over these chairs after an evening’s performance, but ballet season (July) had ended and most of the crowd seemed to consist of the horsey set that takes over in August. We had passed a couple of garden rooms on our way out here, each one more prettily decorated than the next. In the end, we settled for the open-air Courtyard Café where we could sit surrounded by dark green latticework trellises, gaze out onto the patio and listen to the trickle of their garden fountains.
High Drama at the Adelphi Bar
We sipped fresh fruit daiquiris and chatted about “our old days” in Saratoga. We all had enjoyed doing a day at the races from time to time, especially if it meant dressing up and languishing over a long lunch at the clubhouse. My dad talked about a poached salmon plate that he found particularly memorable. All of us went more for the show and the fun of it than for the gambling. With its two-storied grandstand, its cascading flower boxes, its supremely maintained grounds and racetracks, complete with a little lake in the center upon which floats a canoe bearing the colors of the stable that won the famous Travers race the year before, one was easily taken with the beauty of this historic landmark. And then, of course, the magnificent thoroughbred horses, the jockeys dressed in brightly-colored silks and the crowd sporting everything from shorts and T-shirts to flouncy dresses and hats, provided a whole other source of entertainment.
Reminiscing about this was bitter sweet. I was quite sure my dad would never return to the races since clearly he felt more comfortable in less hectic surroundings these days. (Even Mrs. London’s was a tad too noisy for him.) We had talked about going to have breakfast at the track, one of my all-time favorite things to do in Saratoga where you can watch the horses train early in the morning and also take a stable tour and learn about the history behind this American institution. (Founded in 1864, the Saratoga Racetrack perpetuates a long tradition of horse culture in the region through the actual races, the horse sales and the horse farms situated throughout the outlying area.) In the end, Dad and I decided to postpone our date for breakfast at the track until next year.
Saratoga Summer Elegance
We glanced over at the table next to us and admired a small group of fashionable people that had clearly just come from the track. We could hear them bemoaning their losses and celebrating their victories over Martinis and large pots of Darjeeling. Indeed it was the time of day when teatime and cocktail hour blurred into one. I sensed that my parents were feeling somewhat wistful about missing out on this great Saratoga tradition of attending the races, world-famous meets held here but six weeks every summer. I reminded them, however, that delighting in a fine hotel could be considered an even older tradition in Saratoga, especially since virtually all of them—some of the grandest in America—had long ago been torn down. Thank goodness the Adelphi remained and amidst its tattered coverings, one could easily gain a whiff of Old Saratoga.
Saratoga Springs is about a 45-minute drive north of Albany International airport.
Saratoga Racetrack, www.nyra.com/saratoga
National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame, www.racingmuseum.org
Saratoga Performing Arts Center, www.spac.org
Mrs. London’s, 464 Broadway, 518-581-1834, www.mrslondons.com
Alan at Limelight Salon of Saratoga, 24 Hamilton Street, 518-580-1007
Saratoga Springs History Museum, Congress Park, 518-584-6920, www.saratogahistory.org
Adelphi Hotel, 365 Broadway, 518-587-4688, www.adelphihotel.com
More of My Favorite Restaurants and Cafés in Saratoga
Caffe Lena, 47 Phila Street, 518-583-0022, www.caffelena.org; folk music and more.
Chez Sophie, 534 Broadway, 518-583-3538, www.chezsophie.com; fine cuisine in a sophisticated setting.
Chiante Il Ristorante, 18 Division Street, 518-580-0025, www.chiantiristorante.com; wonderful Italian restaurant with a happening bar.
Circus Café, 392 Broadway, 518-583-1106, www.circuscafe.com; casual dining served up in a Big Top setting—a must for kids.
Country Corner Café, 25 Church Street, 518-583-7889, www.saratoga.org/countrycornercafé; great place for breakfast if you can find a seat!
Four Seasons Natural Foods, 33 Phila Street, 518-584-4670; www.fourseasonsnaturalfoods.com; a favorite for healthy food and products both to enjoy here or to go. I would often eat here with Mana, my yoga instructor, whom I ran into recently at their outdoor seating. Enquire about her here if you want to experience one of the best yoga classes ever!
Lime, 7 Caroline Street, 518-584-4315, www.limesaratoga.com; fun Caribbean food.
Sperry’s, 30 1/2 Caroline Street, 518-584-9618, www.sperrysofsaratoga.com; a Saratoga classic.
My Old Shopping Haunts
De Jonghe Jewelers, 470 Broadway, 518-587-6422, www.dejonghejewelry.com; original designs of the finest quality.
Lyrical Ballad, 7 Phila Street, 518-584-8779, lballad@nycap.rr.com; seller of rare and extraordinary books and prints.
Menges & Curtis Apothecary, 472 Broadway, 518-584-2046, www.mengesandcurtis.com; quality beauty products and gift ideas in an Old World setting.
Putnam Street Market Place, 433 Broadway, 518-587-3663; www.putnammarket.com; fine comestibles and wine, including delightful dishes to go.
Saratoga Shoe Depot, 365 Broadway, 518-584-1142, www.saratogashoedepot.com; shoes, accessories and clothing for all as well as a plethora of gifts—all at discounted prices.
Saratoga Trunk, 493 Broadway, 518-584-3543; www.saratogatrunk.com; high-end women’s fashions and accessories including hats!
The Art District on Beekman Street
Worth Checking Out
The Art District on Beekman Street emerged within recent years as a happening place to shop and dine. I especially like it since it’s not at all touristy. (Broadway, the main street of Saratoga, does become a little too much of a scene for me during the thick of the summer season.) This is an historic neighborhood, originally primarily Italian, where Al Capone and Lucille Ball once hung out (although perhaps not at the same time!) There are some nice art galleries here to explore. My mom and I dined to mixed reviews at Gotchya’s (www.gotchyas.com) on a separate occasion. You might fare better at The Beekman Street Bistro (www.thebeekmanstreetbistro.com), although I don’t have any firsthand reports. For more on the Art District of Beekman Street, go to www.saratogatourism.com/vcstuff/beekman.
Saratoga Countryside
For the Outdoors You
I became more in touch with sports and how regular physical activity can benefit you so much both physically and mentally when I lived in Saratoga. (Remember I was coming off of living eleven years in Paris where for me exercise consisted of a stroll in the park or a walk in the countryside.) This is where I launched myself into cycling and discovered that some of the best road riding in the country lies less than a mile out of town. Think of all of those horse farms and rolling hills! I also loved to ride out at the Saratoga Battlefied, a beautiful parcel of countryside steeped in history. Closer to town, it’s fun to hike, picnic or just poke around at the Saratoga Spa State Park, a National Historic Landmark, which is indisputably quite picturesque. In the winter, I would sometimes cross country ski in this park and then swing over to Mrs. London’s for a hot chocolate and a croissant.
Blue Sky Bicycles, 71 Church Street, 518-583-0600, www.blueskybicycles.com; shop here to outfit yourself for your cycling, rent a bike or obtain information on the great rides in the area.
Saratoga National Historical Park (The Saratoga Battlefield), 518-664-9821, ext. 224, www.nps.gov/sara
Saratoga Spa State Park, 19 Roosevelt Drive, 518-584-2535, www.saratogaspastatepark.org
Book Picks
Any of the Jacobs Burns Mysteries by Matt Witten; he was a fellow author when I lived in Saratoga and all of his stories are set in the Spa town.
“Saratoga: Saga of an Impious Era,” by George Waller
“Saratoga Springs: An Architechtural History, 1790-1990,” by James Kettlewell; I was friendly with James when I lived in Saratoga. He was the most distinguished Art History professor associated with Skidmore College, which is also located in Saratoga.
“Saratoga Trunk,” by Edna Ferber and Stuart M. Rosen; my absolute favorite which is a terrific movie as well!
Riding the Rails Along the Hudson
All Aboard to View the Hudson River!
I haven’t traveled many Amtrak routes in my life, but I have taken one of the most scenic—the one that stretches along the Hudson River in upstate New York—many times over. The two and a half-hour ride from Albany, New York to New York City first held me in rapt attention when I was about eight years old. This was the occasion of my first trip to New York City, a landmark moment I experienced with my mother. We boarded in Albany, just across the river from Troy, the town where I grew up.
Ever since that initial train trip, I have been transfixed by the beauty of this route, one that cuts through predominantly unspoiled countryside where development is sparse and wildlife is plenty. It’s always a good idea to board early so you can claim one of the window seats on the Hudson side since business and leisure travelers appear decidedly smitten with the views as well. Then—no matter what the season—you’ll witness some of our country’s most resplendent scenery unfold before you.
